Upper and Lower Control Arms (Installation)

[69R-CODE 25]

Hello all!

 

When I restored my car I did not buy new upper and lower control arms. I cleaned up and painted the original ones and put them on. They seemed to be in good enough shape at the time and I was low on $$$. I had the car's front end alignment done before it went off for paint.

 

The car has now been on the road for about a year now. It is a complete nightmare to drive. (Has been since day one). The car is hard to steer when taking corners and sometimes the tires will squeal when taking a sharp curve at low speed. I just thought it was because it was an 50 year old car. I have notice that the car sits funny. Sometimes I will drive it down the road and park it and the front tires will have positive camber and then other times a drive it it looks like it has negative camber. I ran my hand across the tires and both front tires have uneven tread wear.

 

I took it to a garage to have it looked at recently and they told me my bushings are bad in my control arms and need to be replaced. They quoted me $500 labor to do the repair (if I bought the parts). The thought of me paying that much makes me sick. 

 

I am thinking about replacing them myself. I have seen a few videos online and it doesn't appear to be that hard of a job. I am concerned about the coil spring compressor (I have heard horror stories).

 

Questions:

 

1. Has anyone had these issues with camber? 

2. Is the bushing diagnosis correct?

3. Is changing them out at home something I should do or let the front end alignment shop do it?

[1969Fstback 58]

I recently removed all the suspension from passenger side. I had never used a spring compressor. I bought an internal compressor. I had to do like everyone else and put a 5 inch bushing due to the bolt being too long. I used some tips from this site such as taping the arms to the spring it only took me 2 mins to compress and remove the spring. My control arms were completely shot.

[1969Fstback 58]

I will add, I have my fenders off to remove the battery apron and fix some other rust. So I assume that makes it significantly easier.

[Total Control Products 24]

Hey there,

While worn bushings are definitely concerning, a contributing factor to your alignment changes could be the eccentric adjuster in the lower control arm.  We recommend installing an Eccentric Eliminator kit which is essentially a lock-out for the lower control arm. I was going to paste a picture but it looks like we recently added a video the site.  CLICK HERE.

 

Swapping out the lower control arms isn't rocket science.  As long as you're careful when removing the coil spring it's relatively fool-proof. It's not a ten-second job, but it cam be accomplished with common tools. There are several sources for replacement OEM style arms that are reasonably priced and already have the bushings installed.  It's worth the extra couple bucks to just replace the arm as it's murder getting the bushings out.

 

However, while the car will handle better, it's not going to handle amazing.  It's still gonna have bump steer issues and dive for the ditch when you slam on the brakes.  The lower control arm and strut rod have huge rubber bushings that conspire to make the car 'safe' for the average driver and unpredictable for the spirited driver.  If you have considered upgrading the suspension in the past, now is the perfect time to do it.

[Mach1 Driver 560]

If you have considered upgrading the suspension in the past, now is the perfect time to do it.

Carl, what would you suggest?

[Total Control Products 24]

 

Carl, what would you suggest?

 

Well, that comes down to what you want from the car.  If it's mostly a weekend cruiser and you just want it to be more predictable, then upgrading the lower arm and/or the strut rods will make a big improvement. If you have a heavier foot and like to charge the corners from time to time, then you might consider going to a complete coilover system. We can get the front end lower than shown in your pics above or, if you like the stance, we can configure a system that will put it pretty darn close. If you're somewhere in between, there's options for that too.

[Trinitys 134]

Telling you if you should do them yourself is a real hard question to answer. i dont know you, your skills, your shop, your tools or experiences.....

 

Here's the deal. anyone can rebuild the suspension in reality....there is no special skills needed, no rocket sciance. Just some basic info and guideline you need to pay attention to. I did my brothers '67 when I was 15. is it easy? Well that depends on your skills, tools and work are etc. 

 

Here is an example of a decent starter kit that will give you what you need for a basic suspension job.

https://www.mustangsplus.com/1967-1973-Mustang-Front-Suspension-Kit-Grab-A-Trak-R.html

 

This kit will give you all new bushings to bring your car back you a slightly beefed up version of your original suspension. It's $350 bucks. it's completely bolt on and only requires a couple cheap or rent-able special tools. Internal spring compressor mostly. If you spend a weekend on this, it can be dont by yourself or with a buddy. I'm actually about to do another '67 in a couple weeks with a friend. after everything is bolted up, have it towed to an alignment shop. 

 

here, watch this video to give yourself an idea of what it takes. we are here to help you through this.  

 

 

EDIT...

heres another (better) video. 

[Rsanter 152]

I have done lots of suspension in mustangs. Unless your stuff was already junk when you reinstalled it I have a hard time blaming the symtoms you have on the upper arms

You need to do an inspection to get an idea of general condition. You need to grab the wheel with the car on stands and feel how much play is in the ball joint.

Off hand to me it sounds like your alignment is not that great

 

If you want to talk and go through some stuff message me for my number

 

Bob

[Trinitys 134]

thats a greeat point actually! 

 

You could go you a place like break check or NTB (if you have them there) and have them give you an inspection and quote it out. At least that way you'd have a starting point. 

[69R-CODE 25]

I appreciate the responses. I do believe I have a bad alignment. I also think the bushings are worn out and possibly the eccentric bolts have moved. I think I will try and tackle it in my garage and then go have the alignment re-done at a more reputable shop. I have already bought the stock replacement upper and lower control arms. I will most likely go ahead and get the Eccentric Eliminator Kit as well.

 

Besides a spring compressor are there any other specialty tools needed? I see some people use a pitman arm puller and some people use a hammer. Any better ideas?

[bryonbush 85]

I replaced my lowers and ball joins on the uppers

. With that, koni shocks and new tie rods, it handles pretty good. I just added adjustable struts but haven't driven with them yet. We did all the suspension and brakes in two full days without a lift.

[Trinitys 134]

I use a hammer, good smack on the side of the spindle and the ball joint pops out. Never used a pitman arm puller on any of my jobs. 

 

Plan to replace spring perches and strut rod bushings while your in there. should consider tie rod ends if you can.  These also seriously effect the alignment. 

based on the squeeling and stance issues you were having, an alignment by someone who knows whats going on should fix your problem. 

 

good luck.....keep us posted. 

[Trinitys 134]

oh and stay away from urethane strut rod bushings if you decide to go with them! just use rubber bushings. harder bushings will put stress on the strut rod and eventually it could snap. I know from first hand experience. 

[Total Control Products 24]

oh and stay away from urethane strut rod bushings if you decide to go with them! just use rubber bushings. harder bushings will put stress on the strut rod and eventually it could snap. I know from first hand experience. 

We've seen this as well.  Definitely only use rubber with the stock strut rods.

[SA69mach 39]

The 69 and 70 cars will benefit greatly from a stock rebuild of the UCA's and LCA's.  Keep in mind the UCA's on offer from many suppliers can be improved with some careful alignment in the bushings.  If you already have yours, then so be it.  I would recommend the 'cheater' UCA's from Opentracker if you want accurate bolt-in items.

 

The Arning drop is a free upgrade for these cars, and will give immediate improvement in performance.  If you have your arms out, then why not do it?

 

A 1" sway bar will also give much improved handling.  This will give best results when combined with mildly heavier spring rate  and lowered if you wish.  600 lbs is high end for street car.  500lb is sporting.  320 would be a minimum rate IMO.  I do not prefer lowering cars beyond 1 inch, plus the 3/8" to 5/8" the Arning drop provides.

 

Good shocks make a massive difference, and improvement in my own cars.  Cant praise the Bilstein shocks enough, as they are just great.

 

As stated, the LCA alignment shim kit is good insurance for your money.  Also the heavy duty Export Brace.  Monte Carlo bar too,  if you wish.

 

Alignment specs are key for these cars.  Using the BOSS 302 as a guide, most folks find great STREET results from:

-1 Camber (1 degree negative camber)

2.5 - 3.5 Castor.

1/32 - 1/16 toe in.  (drivers side/pass side)

 

There are many other things you can do, especially when you find worn parts, like strut rod bushings,  steering linkage bushings, rear spring bushings, etc.  But for front end work, this will be inexpensive and guaranteed to work nicely, and eliminate that 'horror drive' situation. 

 

You will need to have some rust loosener, some standard tools, spring compressors, some 'never seize' paste for assembly.  Grease gun. torque wrench.  Probably other things.

 

You might consider welding in some gussets from the frame to the shock tower too.  That gives great strength to the shock tower and very little cost and work.

[69R-CODE 25]

Update. I went to autozone and got the OEM Coil Spring compressor and started working on this job over the weekend. 

I have seen several different ways people use this type compressor. I placed the fork up on top of the shock tower and the hooks as far down as they would go.

Everything seemed to be going fine until i heard a pop noise. I looked in the fender well and saw that the coil spring compressor had got in a bind was in a horrible looking angle attached.

I was scared to death. Luckily I got it uncompressed and off without hurting myself or the car.

 

Since then I have replaced the upper and lower control arms and spring saddle. It is now time to put the spring back in and I dont want to repeat what happened over the weekend.

 

Questions:

1. Am I using the wrong type of compressor?

2. Was the cause of the binding due to the way I was using the compressor. Looking at the photo the hooks are on the same coil. I didnt install it that way.

3. Should I purchase the shock style compressor? (attached).

 

 

[Mach1 Driver 560]

I was reading about this the other day. The author was compressing a spring, the compressor slipped and his hand was trapped. He was alone and eventually was able to free himself and get to the emergency room. Then he fabbed a bolt-in spring compressor that looks similar to the one you show above. He gives instructions on this site: http://dazecars.com/dazed/spring.html

I'm interested in the source of the one you show above, and how they are used. Thanks.

[69R-CODE 25]

I went ahead and purchased this today. Not going to try and test fate twice.

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/65-73-Mustang-Shelby-Maverick-Coil-Spring-Compressor/261195370724?_trksid=p2045573.c100033.m2042&_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D33890%26meid%3D669368ff688b4f9eb527d19381608097%26pid%3D100033%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D4%26mehot%3Dpp%26sd%3D281429833260

 

The ebay link also has the instructions on it.

[1969Fstback 58]

The other one you have looks like the top plate should slide between coils under the shock tower.  Based on the notch and the curved indentations.

 

How does the new one work?  does it have to bolt to the saddle and the saddle needs to be unbolted?

 

I have the double curved hook type.  Removed one side and it worked flawlessly.  

[Brian Conway 264]

I have heard most of the scary horrible disaster stories involving removing the coils spring on these 65-70 Mustangs.  I suspect the accidents are fewer than than the number of times the stories are repeated and embellished.  Certainly someone has undoubedly been hurt removing the coil springs.  I suspect due to sloppy work habits or incorrect tools.  This job can be dangerous but so can jacking up the front end.  Care, proper tools and safety procedures should be the norm at all times.  That being said; I remove the outer shock tower cover for better access and that also reduces the spring compression needed.  The tool I use requires that I go slow.  This is also a good time to check the spring seat and the Bumps mounted on the shock cover.  Just my experience and opinion.  Brian

[shaun071 62]

I have the same style of compressors as Brian and always take the outer cover off. It's much safer. If you are putting in lowering springs they won't need much compressing at all.

[Total Control Products 24]

No matter what style coil spring compressor you use just make sure to go slow and steady and use lots of lubricant. Anti-sieze gets everywhere, but it's easier to clean up than blood or scratched bodywork. 

 

I've never seen the 'shock style' compressor and neither has our senior tech.  It's an interesting idea, seems like it would work pretty well. Let us know how it goes!

[Mach1 Driver 560]

I went ahead and purchased this today. Not going to try and test fate twice.

 

The ebay link also has the instructions on it.

 

Looks like a good tool and the instructions are easy to follow, thanks

[69R-CODE 25]

Update. Got the shock style compressor. It worked great and was a very safe tool. However, Once I got the coil spring compressed, the upper control arm does not line up with the spring saddle. I have the spring installed correctly (or at least I think I do) but the two bolts that go into the UCA are not even close. I compressed the spring as far as I safely could and still would not work.  I even unbolted the UCA from the shock tower and pulled it back to "make it work". One bolt would line up and the other would be off a bit. Even if I were to force the issue, the two bolts that would go through the shock tower would not have enough threads sticking out to bolt that side down. Anyone have this happen? The spring saddle and UCA bolt up fine outside the car. Could I have the spring not seated correctly up at the top?

[TexasEd 188]

A couple of questions to save you headaches down the road:

1. Are you replacing the coil spring insulators that go on top of the spring?

2. Are you replacing the spring perch bushings and the control arm bushings?

3. Are you replacing your shocks?

4. Does your car already have the UCA drop?

 

For simplicity I bought all my suspension parts from Opentracker Racing.  Call John, he's a great help.

 

I replaced the entire upper and lower control arm assemblies.

I bolted in the spring perches (with roller bearings from OTR) before mounting the UCA in the car.

I used the lowering springs and the combination of the UCA drop and shorter springs meant I did not have to compress them.

- Aligning the springs was still tricky and getting the bottom of the spring on the perch correctly at the same time as having the insulator lined up at the top would have been easier with extra hands.