Wiring Harnesses

[MN69Grande 203]

Well, if I didn't have bad luck with the Stang I'd have no luck.  Last night I put the lower dash back in after rebuilding the AC/Heater box.  I went to connect the battery and sparks flew even though the key wasn't even in the ignition let alone switched to accessory or run.  I thought oh I must have left the headlight switch pulled out and went to check.  Smoke was coming out of the dash.  I ran back to the battery and smoke was also along the drivers side of the engine bay.  Once I got the terminal disconnected again and made sure nothing was on fire I started to inspect the damage.

 

Basically the yellow wire a few inches from the ignition switch somehow got out of the casing and made contact to a metal support.  The coating on that wire from the pigtail at the ignition switch to the headlights melted.  Not sure if any of the wire it was taped to also melted.  Happened in seconds.  I'm not sure how the wire got stripped/broken open in the first place.  So now on to another unexpected project.  So now I'm trying to decide what to do.

 

I could try to inspect the wiring along the whole shorted path and splice a few repairs in.  But honestly I don't trust the harness any more.  So I'm thinking I need to rewire.  I have a few thoughts I was hoping to layout and get advice.  

 

1.) Replace with stock style harnesses.  This actually seems to be the most expensive option($800 + $267).  Especially since I need the underdash and I think the other is called the Firewall to headlight harness .

http://www.cjponyparts.com/underdash-wiring-harness-without-tachometer-1969/p/WUD13/

http://www.cjponyparts.com/headlight-wiring-harness-from-firewall-1969/p/WHL6A/  (can anyone could tell me that this would cover the power to the ignition? it would be appreciated)

 

2.) Replace the entire wiring system with the painless kit.  This allows for a modern fuse block, updated gauges, and some accessory expansion but comes in with the second Highest price tag ($880).  More work but some nice upgrades.

http://www.cjponyparts.com/painless-performance-complete-chassis-wiring-harness-14-circuit-1969-1970/p/WH6970/

 

3.) Replace the entire wiring system with the American AutoWire Update kit.  This kit allows for a modern fuse block, aftermarket gauges and accessories.  But this kit requires the use of a 3g Alternator.  But that would be nice upgrade in and of itself.  Of course I'd also need to change my ammeter to a voltmeter (I'm thinking RCCI).  So this would cost about as much as much as option 2 ($650 harness + $100-130 Alternator + $65 volt meter) and a little more work but I'd get more upgrades.

http://www.cjponyparts.com/american-autowire-complete-wiring-harness-classic-update-kit-1969/p/WHC69/

 

Thoughts?  I still have a couple months before we get into the real nice weather I'm hoping to get on this and be ready by the end of May.

[Midlife 814]

I refurbish used wiring harnesses in my business.  If you want to keep stock or very close to it, I'm very reasonable in costs.  Replacing the underdash and headlight harnesses would only run about $250 with cores.  See my website for more info.

 

http://midlife66.com/harnesses

[7TCatvert 24]

Midlife does a nice job refurbishing, he did mine which was a mess and everything works correctly

[MN69Grande 203]

I refurbish used wiring harnesses in my business.  If you want to keep stock or very close to it, I'm very reasonable in costs.  Replacing the underdash and headlight harnesses would only run about $250 with cores.  See my website for more info.

 

http://midlife66.com/harnesses

Hi Midlife,

 

I did think of this as an option.  That would make option number one cheaper if I refurb the underdash harness.  Though it is going to be a big job its got a replacement ignition pigtail (of questionable quality now), a used/replacement pig tail to the blower speed switch, someone in the 80s did a hack job to get the radio in, plus a bunch of other splices here or there.  I'll keep you on the list.  I'm debating the upgrade kits more than anything at this point, I don't know if it is worth the work to rewire the whole car versus just the engine bay and under the dash.  The modern features would be nice.

[JayEstes 172]

Midlife did all my harnesses, and I think he is your best option for sure - by a long shot.  It's nice to know you still have the original harness, there is virtually nothing to do but re-install when you get it back.  The harness can be trusted, comes with new wirelist for every wire and connector specific for your car (i took my new wirelist sheets and had them laminated and spiral bound).  He inspects and repairs all bad wires and connections.  I don't think there is a better deal out there.

[RPM 1,190]

While that really does suck in a bad way, I'm sure it could have just as quickly turned out much worse. Another fan of Randy at Midlife.

[Midlife 814]

Hi Midlife,

 

I did think of this as an option.  That would make option number one cheaper if I refurb the underdash harness.  Though it is going to be a big job its got a replacement ignition pigtail (of questionable quality now), a used/replacement pig tail to the blower speed switch, someone in the 80s did a hack job to get the radio in, plus a bunch of other splices here or there.  I'll keep you on the list.  I'm debating the upgrade kits more than anything at this point, I don't know if it is worth the work to rewire the whole car versus just the engine bay and under the dash.  The modern features would be nice.

I have found that trying to repair shorted wires is not worth the effort.  Instead, I usually end up replacing the items with ones from my stockpiles (it now fills an entire garage bay!).  The harnesses that I replace are identical to those you send in, so the condition of your ignition pigtail and blower speed switch and radio plug hacks are irrelevant, so long as you have no attachment to your original harnesses.  Since you are strongly considering aftermarket, that eliminates that issue.  I accept cores in any condition, because there are some plugs that I like to cannibalize and I repurpose a lot of materials for custom-built harnesses.

 

To answer your question, yes that CJPony headlight harness does carry the main battery power, through the fuse box connector to the ignition switch after a factory splice that goes to the fuse box and headlight connector.  Usually when that wire lets the "smoke jeannie" out, that fuse box connector is toast.

[MN69Grande 203]

I have found that trying to repair shorted wires is not worth the effort.  Instead, I usually end up replacing the items with ones from my stockpiles (it now fills an entire garage bay!).  The harnesses that I replace are identical to those you send in, so the condition of your ignition pigtail and blower speed switch and radio plug hacks are irrelevant, so long as you have no attachment to your original harnesses.  Since you are strongly considering aftermarket, that eliminates that issue.  I accept cores in any condition, because there are some plugs that I like to cannibalize and I repurpose a lot of materials for custom-built harnesses.

 

To answer your question, yes that CJPony headlight harness does carry the main battery power, through the fuse box connector to the ignition switch after a factory splice that goes to the fuse box and headlight connector.  Usually when that wire lets the "smoke jeannie" out, that fuse box connector is toast.

 

 

Good to know about the connector and your process.   Have to get my ducks in a row.  I think the first step will be removing the underdash harness regardless.  Thanks for the response.

[Guillaume69 150]

+1 on Randy's harnesses refurb skills. He did my underdash, and I sent a few friends his way, who did not hesitate to have their cores shipped out from France.

 

The reinstall instructions are absolutely great. I kept them too.

 

G

[MN69Grande 203]

Well.. I think I found what cause all the smoke to escape.  I tried and tried and couldn't capture it let alone put it back in the wiring...

[69volunteer 84]

Not to go against others regarding Randy (I sold him my old harness, nice guy and seems like an excellent option) but I went with AAW--only because I bought it prior to even knowing about Randy.

 

The install was pretty straight forward and easy, relays for the headlights, several additional leads that I didn't use (electric fan, fog lights, I think even for a powered subwoofer). One thing to note is that you have to make all of the electrical connections with crimpers. I had a set but I had to buy the double wide crimper for the headlight connectors (cost was an additional $100). If you go this route, be aware.

[LiLMike 42]

Like 69volunteer, I bought an AAW wiring harness before I knew about Randy. I have put in a 120 amp alt, electric fans and power amp for the radio. I wanted the extra power so the alt was necessary. If I had it to do over again I would have gone with painless. Reason being is that painless uses the stock color coded wires where as AAW just picks their own.

[Midlife 814]

Well.. I think I found what cause all the smoke to escape.  I tried and tried and couldn't capture it let alone put it back in the wiring...

 

I would say that that harness is toast, cooked/well done, and finished; stick a fork in it.  I accept these harnesses as cores, as there are still useful bits on it.

[JD08 42]

Randy,

 

What do you do in the event someone sends you a pretty trashed harness for refurb? Asking for a friend.

[MN69Grande 203]

Randy,

 

What do you do in the event someone sends you a pretty trashed harness for refurb? Asking for a friend.

 

Which is exactly what I just did!  He had actually answered that above.

 

"I have found that trying to repair shorted wires is not worth the effort.  Instead, I usually end up replacing the items with ones from my stockpiles (it now fills an entire garage bay!).  The harnesses that I replace are identical to those you send in, so the condition of your ignition pigtail and blower speed switch and radio plug hacks are irrelevant, so long as you have no attachment to your original harnesses."

[JD08 42]

Which is exactly what I just did!  He had actually answered that above.

 

"I have found that trying to repair shorted wires is not worth the effort.  Instead, I usually end up replacing the items with ones from my stockpiles (it now fills an entire garage bay!).  The harnesses that I replace are identical to those you send in, so the condition of your ignition pigtail and blower speed switch and radio plug hacks are irrelevant, so long as you have no attachment to your original harnesses."

I completely missed that. I have a harness that's pretty close to a complete basket case. It looks like Midlife's gonna get a little more business.

[Midlife 814]

Randy,

 

What do you do in the event someone sends you a pretty trashed harness for refurb? Asking for a friend.

Roll my eyes and reply as before.  There's almost nothing I can't fix/replace except for very rare items that have shorted wires.

[JD08 42]

Sold. I'll be in touch soon.

[MN69Grande 203]

Dumb question (As usual).  I just received a new headlight harness and connector from CJP.  But I don't have a rubber book that goes over the harness.  Any issues with reusing the old nasty one I just pulled out?  I figured I could just cut the wires and pull it from the back.  Thoughts?

[Midlife 814]

What do you mean about a "rubber book"?  If that is a typo and a rubber boot, there was no such thing from the factory (assuming you are referring to a split loom wrap).

[MN69Grande 203]

Yes I mean BOOT not Book.  Not sure what use a rubber book would be.  Anyway.  Mine has such a part see attached.  Maybe it was a grande thing, maybe it was replaced in the 80s and some one made a real nice harness.  Maybe it was a thing with early 69s as my car has a ton 68 parts on it.  Motor, trans, etc.   I pulled it off, its still nice an pliable so I'm gonna reuse it.  Can't hurt, one less place for stuff to get into the cab.

[Midlife 814]

Oh.  That is a rubber seal on the back side of the firewall headlight to fusebox connector.  Yes, that needs to be re-used, as well as the green connector.  You'll need to de-pin the pins by pushing back the locking tab and sliding the pins out.  It is somewhat of a PITA.

[RobotMan 264]

Make sure you obviously write down the color pin out pattern as you remove them. Also recommend getting the tool to push the pins out with. I had trouble doing mine until I bought the tool.

[MN69Grande 203]

I actually bought a new connector and it came with a guide for the pins.  But just in case I cut the old wire with 3 inches of wiring so I could refer back if there was a problem.  Got it pinned out last night.  I only had an issue with maybe two pins because the crimps were ugly.  Going to put it in this afternoon.

[Convertible69 17]

MN69Grande, maybe I missed it in the thread, what harness did you end up going with? I just purchased the Painless whole Chassis harness. Also ( dumb question ) does the whole dash have to come out to replace the under the dash harness?