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7TCatvert

New aluminum Radiator

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It looks like the autocity1958 radiator that has the passenger outlet is in stock. Am I missing something? Maybe you meant the US Radiator version?

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/291620347931?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

It appears "Trinitys" was referring to a radiator with both the inlet and outlet on the Passenger side, if I read the posts corrently.

 

BT

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It looks like the autocity1958 radiator that has the passenger outlet is in stock. Am I missing something? Maybe you meant the US Radiator version?

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/291620347931?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

This link is to one with a driver side outlet. They have not listed a 24" with passenger side outlet on ebay as of yet. So, yes, it appears you are missing something....LOL!  ;)

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Well, I decided NOT to use the one I had as there were a couple of issues as it relates to obtaining or making the brackets and the fact that there might have been some clearance issues with the install of the condenser.

 

I decided to go with the one from AutoCity1958 that 7TCatvert mentioned in the first post. It should arrive by next Wednesday. So, like 7TCatvert, I now have a brand new radiator that I will not be using.

 

BT

Well, I received the radiator last evening.

 

For those of you who may be interested, attached are a couple of pictures that depict a side-by-side comparison of the two radiators.

 

post-16376-0-52268500-1458836942.jpg

The one on the left is the one from AutoCity.

 

post-16376-0-13965800-1458836976.jpg

The one on the right is the one from AutoCity.

 

As you may notice, the AutoCity one has more of a "Stock" appearance which means there are no fitment issues. That having been said, the other one is also a good product. It will work well with the appropriate brackets.I will be using the AutoCity one for my current application.

 

 

 

BT

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capacity is determined by the size of the tubes . all chinese rads have tubes that are at least 25% smaller than tubes in us made rads so this reduced volume must be accounted for when selecting a rad.

 

if two rads have he same volume and size but different numbers of tubes, the rad with more tubes will cool better if there is sufficient air flow because there is more cooling area.

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capacity is determined by the size of the tubes . all chinese rads have tubes that are at least 25% smaller than tubes in us made rads so this reduced volume must be accounted for when selecting a rad.

 

if two rads have he same volume and size but different numbers of tubes, the rad with more tubes will cool better if there is sufficient air flow because there is more cooling area.

 

 

Respectfully, I'm not sure your logic holds true. The most modern radiators for the 69-70 Mustang seem to be aluminum and have two large cores. Griffin is a good example of this. I have a brass 4-core that is HEAVY and dense. It won't cool in traffic properly unless I have a powerful electric fan to pull air through the very dense fins. In my opinion a 2-row with a similar core volume as a 4-row will cool better

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Respectfully, I'm not sure your logic holds true. The most modern radiators for the 69-70 Mustang seem to be aluminum and have two large cores. Griffin is a good example of this. I have a brass 4-core that is HEAVY and dense. It won't cool in traffic properly unless I have a powerful electric fan to pull air through the very dense fins. In my opinion a 2-row with a similar core volume as a 4-row will cool better

this gets complicated and as you see in my post, i did mention air flow . yes large two rows do work well but my point is that if you get a chinese rad that has the same number of tubes as a us rad, the chinese rad will not cool as effectively simply because it has less water and less surface area so simply take this into account when purchasing one.

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http://www.coolcraft.com/radiator-core-styles

Here is a great radiator article. I never had to really put much thought into cooling issues but now that I'm looking at AC(down the road) I'm wanting to make sure I'm ready. 

 

According to the site, and a few others I've read this morning, it seems copper is a much better conductor than aluminum but when you solder it all together, it looses its heat transfer abilities due to the lead. Copper has other cons such as weight and dis-similar metals and electrolysis. some advantages of copper over aluminum are that a copper radiator is rebuild-able where an aluminum is not.

 

Given the benefits of a aluminum over copper, plus the fact that it can be had in OE tank design make it a winner for me over copper.

 

Where I said the added capacity above, I was referring to a 24" aluminum as compared to my current 20" copper. 

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Here's a bit more interesting information on comparing copper to aluminum and tube design....

 

the note below this picture read

"Each 1/2" tube loses 20% of its contact area due to the end radius.The lost fin contact area on each 1" tube is only 8% of its area Plus the flow rate in Aluminum is much greater."

 

Griffin has an extreme cool feature that takes the tube with (A) up to 1.25".but that will set you back up-ward on $800 and $1500 if you have electric fans added on with their exact fit series. http://www.griffinrad.com/exact_fit.php?tid=2

 

 Most are  1 inch on aluminum....however the OP has a Chinese made radiator with 1 1/8" tubes.   The OP got a damn good deal.....now the e-bay sell just needs to post a early small block version and i'm buying it on the spot. if they dont, i'm eventually going to get a US Radiator brand for around $450 or so. 

post-17-0-19201400-1458929631.gif

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Well, I received the radiator last evening.

 

For those of you who may be interested, attached are a couple of pictures that depict a side-by-side comparison of the two radiators.

 

attachicon.gifRadiator.2.JPG

The one on the left is the one from AutoCity.

 

attachicon.gifRadiator.4.JPG

The one on the right is the one from AutoCity.

 

As you may notice, the AutoCity one has more of a "Stock" appearance which means there are no fitment issues. That having been said, the other one is also a good product. It will work well with the appropriate brackets.I will be using the AutoCity one for my current application.

 

 

 

BT

Here are some photographs of the AutoCity radiator installed in my '69:

 

post-16376-0-83766300-1459287274.jpg

 

post-16376-0-20777200-1459287325.jpg

 

post-16376-0-17968900-1459287369.jpg

 

Interesting aside. The shop owner is one of those "PURIST" who don't believe in modifying the classic mustang (I, on the other hand, am a real modifyer). He was EXTREMELY impressed with the looks and fitment of this radiator,

 

BT

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Nice!

 

What shop is that, he looks busy with some nice cars?

It is "Classic Mustangs" here in Memphis, TN.

 

He currently has about 25 classic mustangs in the shop (including my two). LOL

 

With my two, I am bringing him "kicking and screaming" into the "Modified" world. I think he is beginning to see the light as to my approach on making these cars better as it relates to performance, safety and amenities. LOL

 

BT

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OK, update: I got sick of waiting for AutoCity, they could never tell when the small block radiator was going to come in. I still didn't want to spend the $420 at US Radiator, and definitely not Griffin prices. Saw an add for MaxCore radiators by ACP in Mustang Monthly Magazine, and found what we are looking for at Dallas Mustang:

 

https://www.dallasmustang.com/24-maxcore-aluminum-radiator-1968-1969-v8-2-row.html

 

$100 more than AutoCity, but you can actually get one now. Installed it last night. Everything lines up and fits pretty well. The upper mounting bracket isn't completely flush, but it holds fine. We are in the midst of a cooler weather pattern, so I can't tell how much better it cools than the old brass 3-row, but the ACP website says about 25% better. Pics below:

 

DSC00871_zpstxafzlgb.jpg

 

DSC00881_zpsxqyiuj1z.jpg

 

DSC00882_zpsqfsk75va.jpg

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