1969Fstback 58 Report post Posted February 25, 2016 The rear has 2 inch lowering blocks. The front I have apart to put new control arms and to lower it. I have 1" Eibach lowering springs which I know I need to cut. They werw not installed, I removed what was probably original springs. Do I install the spring as is for a baseline or go ahead and cut half a coil off or do something else? If I install as is and I am 1 inch or 2 inches higher than rear how much should I cut off,to start with. I am guessing even though they are 1 inch lowering that I will still be more than a inch higher than rear based on originals being fatigued. I want to be level or slight rake, I am fine with either. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ridge Runner 1,113 Report post Posted February 25, 2016 I would try them first ,and remember they will settle a bit with use . Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ridge Runner 1,113 Report post Posted February 25, 2016 If you do need to cut them use a chop saw and do not over heat them Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lanky 44 Report post Posted February 25, 2016 With 2" lowering blocks, I can guarantee you will need to cut them at least a bit. 1/2 coil is a big increment. When I cut my first set of springs (note first set) I went by half coils which turned out to be a larger difference than I thought. This was with the common 1" drop springs. 1/2 wasn't enough and 1 coil turned out to be too much. 1/3 coil increments I would recommend, I ended up cutting 2/3 coil. I run 4.5 reverse eye leafs and my car is just about level front to back. I used a dremel after trying a sawzall with the best blades money can buy and it barely scratched the springs. I cooled the metal down with oil and would only cut a little bit before stopping for awhile for heat reasons. Came out fine, just a timely process. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MikeStang 247 Report post Posted February 25, 2016 Well before I bolted the Upper Control Arms on I would go ahead and do the Shelby Drop since it will help correct the suspension geometry, and you wont see much Actual drop from doing the modification "I think we saw 1/4-1/2" MAYBE when we did both of our cars. Once you do the drop and install the UCA I would put the Coils in and lower the car and bounce it a few times to seat the springs, then see how much you need to cut. We do 1/4 coil cuts then reinstall and check it again. I always use a 4" angle grinder with a Cut-Off wheel and make the cut clean and fast, then take a file and clean the edge of the cut up. Don't worry about heat transfer through the spring really, as fast as you cut through it with an angle grinder and thin cut off wheel the heat doesn't move up the coil more than an inch or two and the amount of heat I don't think will effect the temper of the spring especially on the very last 1-2 inches of the coil where it doesn't really matter anyhow, but im sure others have their opinions on this. on our cars, the front springs didn't settle near as much as a new pair of rear leafs, we generally cut until we get it just a little higher than we want it to be and go drive it and the next day or 2 after its sat with the weight on the springs we re-evaluate and cut one last time. If you cut to much you can always do the Spring perch relocation and gain about 1/2" back, just don't go over more than 1/2" and you can correct it without new springs. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
1969Fstback 58 Report post Posted February 25, 2016 I've acquired a Shelby drop template and make that mod before reassembling. What do you guys normally do with the old holes to plug them? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rsanter 152 Report post Posted February 26, 2016 It is was me I would install the springs and drive it with that suspension a little. Event bouncing the car a bit will not be good enough and you will get settling after a few miles. Shelby left the old holes empty. I installed fender bolts in the holes strictly as decoration Bob Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
1969Fstback 58 Report post Posted February 26, 2016 Yeah, I was more concerned with water and such flying off the tire into the engine compartment. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MikeStang 247 Report post Posted February 26, 2016 Leave them open, or put some bolts in them, it don't really matter. How wet ya think it gets under the hood when you drive in a rain storm? 4 bolt holes wont amount to 1/100th of the water that you get under there from the rain LOL. you could always pop some little metal finish caps in the holes if you were that worried about them 1 RPM reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
1969Fstback 58 Report post Posted February 26, 2016 Leave them open, or put some bolts in them, it don't really matter. How wet ya think it gets under the hood when you drive in a rain storm? 4 bolt holes wont amount to 1/100th of the water that you get under there from the rain LOL. you could always pop some little metal finish caps in the holes if you were that worried about them Yeah, that crossed my mind too. Kinda thought I was over thinking it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MikeStang 247 Report post Posted February 26, 2016 We always overthink things LOL that's why we have the forums so people can bring us to our senses HaHa Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rockhouse66 22 Report post Posted February 26, 2016 My experience is that due to the geometry, you will get about double the drop that you cut. In other words, making the spring 1" shorter will bring the front down about 2" or so. So I would view it as how much of a coil do I need to cut to get that drop, not "how many coils". Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Max Power 74 Report post Posted February 28, 2016 I would try em before cutting. Eibachs don't settle much, they are good springs. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
1969Fstback 58 Report post Posted February 28, 2016 Thanks gentlemen for the advice. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
schweigert 13 Report post Posted August 2, 2016 just wanting some confirmation -I'm about to cut my front 620 springs a half coil with a chop saw - I'm going to try to cut horizontal so they still fit flat im on grab-a-track shocks with Sway-Bar-Size: 1-1/8"Leaf_Springs: 4½-Leaf Mid Eye Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted August 2, 2016 I'd cut them at 90* so they fit as designed in the spring saddle on the upper control arm. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
1969Fstback 58 Report post Posted August 2, 2016 I ended up not cutting mine. After the drop and without driving it any it's just a tad above level. I am hoping driving it some it will settle enough to be level. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
schweigert 13 Report post Posted August 2, 2016 i've had my 620's on for around a year - and theres a sizable gap between the tire and fender - almost twice the gap in the rear figure might as well try it, and if it doesn't work out - i'll just try the shelby drop springs Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
1969Fstback 58 Report post Posted August 2, 2016 Yeah mines a lot closer on the front wheel then yours without driving it. My front is gapped about the same as your rear and the rear is a little closer. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
barnett468 418 Report post Posted August 2, 2016 I ended up not cutting mine. After the drop and without driving it any it's just a tad above level. I am hoping driving it some it will settle enough to be level. they won't settle more than 1/4". Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
1969Fstback 58 Report post Posted August 2, 2016 they won't settle more than 1/4". Kinda what I figured also. That would get me close. And for now close enough. Cause I am switching gears to a 62 rambler next month for my eldest's first car. It will be some time before I get back to mine. But, if its running and driving and stopping I can deal with the other small issues. Such as crap interior, no door windows and a dead gauge cluster. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
barnett468 418 Report post Posted August 2, 2016 I am switching gears to a 62 rambler next month for my eldest's first car. Xlnt! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
1969Fstback 58 Report post Posted August 2, 2016 Kinda of a true barn find, but a garage. Good friend and ex-coworker's dad bought it in 1967. The friend drove it in early 70's and they parked it in a garage in 1975 due to a u joint. The friend hated it and bought a Camaro. The car sat in a sunless, waterless garage since 1975 up until 2 years ago. His parents passed and the house was condemned. The car has almost no rust and what's there is surface. I got it for a steal since he needed the money and no way of hauling it. I was gonna resell it. My daughter who was 10 at the time fell in love. She's 12 now and I figure if I start now then by the time she's 16 it will be ready to roll. I am looking forward to it. 1 JayEstes reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Max Power 74 Report post Posted August 3, 2016 i've had my 620's on for around a year - and theres a sizable gap between the tire and fender - almost twice the gap in the rear figure might as well try it, and if it doesn't work out - i'll just try the shelby drop springs Or just drop an FE in it. That would lower it a bit.... 1 RPM reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MikeStang 247 Report post Posted August 3, 2016 Here's what you end up with when you have 620 1" drop springs with 3/4 of a coil cut off and the Shelby drop with 4.5 leaf Reverse Eye springs and a 1/2" longer than stock rear spring hanger. Rear tires are 275-40-18 Front tires are 255-40-17's Side note.. When the front gets this low you will have frame to sway bar contact in the front which means shorter front links on the sway bar. When its this low in the back if you will have clearance issues with the tires, rear end Etc..... All and all its a huge pain in the ass, but I love the look, handles GREAT and the ride is SoSo... Its a little rough for my taste. Oh I have Konis on all 4 corners also Front and rear fenders are rolled and nothing hits no matter how hard I corner it or turn the wheels. I did have to hammer clearance the driver inner wheel well a little bit tho Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites