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Fuel Neck Filler Mods?

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2 minutes ago, SM69Mach said:

Just hang on to mine as well.  Will just get one when they come in.  

Hey Scott, I was just going to reply to your PM with the order situation.   Boy I hate it when I make a commitment and then the supplier hits me with this.   Normally if there is no stock, the site will not let you put it in your cart.   I knew they were low though, as I tried to double my order (to 32), just to see how that would effect shipping cost and the site said there was not enough in stock to cover that.   So I quickly reverted back to 16 ... thinking I ordered just in time ... and their system let the order go through.

Just an FYI ... it did take about 2 months for them to get them back is stock last time.

Doug   

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Hey Doug

No problem.  I am not in a hurry for it, since I have my whole fuel system out anyway.  I had planned to order a new neck anyway as an extra to modify.  I can always put my current one together if it takes a while.  Swapping out necks shouldn't be a big deal.   Thanks again for all of your work on this and understand you can't control vendor supply issues.  

Thanks

Scott 

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I'm hoping I'm wrong, but I thought maybe some clarification might be required ...

I noticed a couple of you put a note on the PayPal transaction stating "Filler Neck" and I just want to make sure there is not any confusion as to what I'm offering for $29.00.   As I stated in my post on the bottom of page 2, what I'm selling is just the "Filler Neck Insert", but modified (flange crimped down) so it is ready to slip into YOUR filler neck.  

There are 4 Filler Neck variations from '65-70 and they alone cost around $30, as well as custom necks for swapping the larger (1970) 22 Gallon tank in either a 65-66 or '67-68 that are around $55.   So if I were selling a ready to swap-in filler neck WITH insert, my price would need to be somewhere between $80~100.  

You can put this "Insert" in an original filler neck or a new repro, and the insert might need to be tweaked a little (as stated in that same post on the bottom of page 2) to fit as tolerances from neck to neck will likely vary.   I'm sure there was more than 1 OE supplier and there is definitely more than one company re-popping these things, so even though they are all 2.25" O.D. tubing there can and will be variances (especially at the bend).

If you really thought this was a "complete neck assembly", read back though all my posts on page 2 from January 26th to see how to do the install with simple hand tools.   Should take no more than 15-30 minutes using a new neck or with your old neck out and on the bench.

I will also be supplying instructions with the "insert" based on what I posted on that day as well as a 2.25" I.D. red plastic cap for covering up your gas tank opening pipe if your doing this to a DRIVER with GAS in the tank (as I did).   I did not want to be smelling gas nor did I want any debris (or tools !!) falling into the opening while I had the fill pipe off.  

This, along with instructions is what you get for $29.00 ...      

Filler Neck Insert & Red Cap.JPG

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I had initially bought 2 inserts and since the 1st one was a success, I promised the 2nd one to a friend of mine with a '70 Mach1.   So ordered up a '70 Neck from CJP and got it on Thursday.  

This neck is one of the cheesier PAINTED ones (rather than Zinc Plated like the '69 one).   Paint obviously chipped away at the staking areas, so I found a little bottle of Testors silver paint (gotta be 20-30 years old !!) and used it to touch it up at the punch sites; turned out nice.

This neck came from Taiwan just like the Zinc Plated '69, but I'm guessing a different mfr. as you'd think they would ALL be either Painted or Zinc  if from same place.   Also, the '69 had a date coded p/n label on the neck itself where this painted one only had mfr & cjp) labels on the bag.   Point being is my crimped insert fit inside this painted neck just as nicely as it did in the Zinc plated one as well as my OE Ford neck, which confirms my crimp OD is workable for all three variations.

 The Tubing welded seam on both necks is right at 3:00 position (coincidence or not ??), however the seam on the '70 tubing protruded in more so I had to rotate my staking slightly so I was not right on the seam. 

2nd pic is the Scott Drake vs. CJP '69 necks which both came from the same mfr. that I had posted earlier in this thread.

70 Filler Neck Done.JPG

SD v CJP Filler Neck.JPG

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DELIVERY UPDATE ...

Inserts should be shipping to me around MARCH 5th, so I should have them ready to ship out to all of you on March 15th or 16th.

I've actually sold the whole original 16 pc. order, so I'm going to order 14 more and have them shipped to me at the same time.

Anyone else want in on these send me a PM !!

1st one $29.00 Shipped USPS 1st Class Mail and $24.00 for each additional insert.

Thanks,

Doug

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Doug ,

   I am interested in doing this mod.  Do you have any filler inserts left?   Thanks

                                                                                                              J.R.

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INSERT ORDER UPDATE ...

Supplier was expecting these in March 3rd/4th ... as this is now past and my order still shows as "in process" I called them today to follow up.   They have not yet received their stock order, but expect it any day.   As soon as I see that order has shipped out to me, I'll post another update.

Anyone else want IN, I'll be ordering a 2nd batch as soon as I see the 1st order shipped / they have stock again so there will not be the long wait like the first batch ... more like a few days between when I receive the 1st & 2nd orders.  

Thanks,

Doug   

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Both the 1st Batch and a 2nd batch shipped out (32 total) to me today.  

I should then have them ready to ship next week Friday (3/23).   

I revised the installation instructions over the weekend too ... added more staking behind the insert AND figured out a simple way to inject JB WELD between the back sides of the insert and the tubing wall.   End result should be close to strength of actual welding.   Replaced the original PDF in the post above from 02/19, so take a look.   

Thanks for everyone's patience !!

Anyone else WANT IN ... send me a PM ... as I now have extras to sell and new orders should ship 3/23 too.

Doug

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Just revised the installation instructions again (edited to Rev R2 in the 02/19 post) and made a 5th page that became the tool list with 5 more pictures.   

The JB Weld on the back turned out great with the syringe ... basically a horseshoe shaped epoxy wedge between the insert and neck tubing wall.   Honestly don't think this thing can move / get knocked out of position now.   But since you can't see / inspect the back side JB Weld, I've now also added 3 daubs of JB Weld to the FRONT SIDE which become the "tell-tale" spots to periodically inspect.   If these 3 daubs are intact, then you know the insert has not moved or shifted within the neck.

Doug  

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I crimped a batch of 20 inserts down today at work and they all came out good.   Kind of wondered if maybe the crimper would ruin one every so often, but nope.

Was toying with an idea and let me know what you think.   I've figured out how to expand the nozzle opening slightly so it will accept a 15/16" / LEADED gas nozzle.   There were a bunch of gear heads in our shop back in the 70's and when unleaded gas came out, they all went nuts.   First they were just punching out the whole unleaded insert and of course removing the CATS and usually adding dual exhaust as well.   They got wiser later and just massaged the unleaded opening just enough so it looked stock, but would take the slightly larger nozzle.

From what i understand, LEADED gas is still available at race tracks and airports.   Anyone here actually use it from time to time where an insert that could accept the LEADED nozzle would be something you would want ??

I did two prototypes today ... carefully stretching the openings up from stock 0.906" to 0.953" ... see picture below. 

For the labor involved, would this option be worth an extra $10.00 ??

Let me know !!

Doug 

STD and OPT Inserts.JPG

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It has been a few weeks and all sold inserts have shipped ... 22 so far ... and I still have some to sell if anyone is interested.

Anyway, I was researching classic Mustang filler necks and discovered that '65-66 necks are quite a bit longer than '69 & '70 and '67-68 falls somewhere in-between.   I've only messed with '69-70 necks so far and I'm claiming this mod should work on all '65-70 Mustang & Cougar necks.   So I ordered up two different '65-66 necks (1 each painted & zinc plated) and a painted '67-68 neck to see if I need to revise my instructions at all.   Last night I successfully got the inserts staked in place in one of the '65-65 necks and the '67-68 neck.   The plated '65-66 neck from Scott-Drake is supposed to be a very close copy to O.E. and uses 2-1/8" tubing (instead of 2-1/4") and is expanded out to 2-1/4" to meet up with the hose at the tank.   For the insert to fit up this neck (and likely any O.E. '65-66 neck) it will need to be crimped down further to fit and I plan on playing with this on the crimper at work next week.

The painted '67-68 neck had a slightly tighter & longer bend than the '69 & '70 necks and was more oval shaped in the bend.   To get insert up and around the bend, I had to hammer the top and bottom flanges of the insert a bit to make it somewhat oval shaped and also put the neck in a vise (with soft jaws) to squeeze/flex the oval shape in order to get it to go around the bend.   Do-able, but definitely trickier / more work than the '69 or '70 necks and is overall about an inch longer than the '69 neck.   

The painted '65-66 neck has two bends in it but they are more of a mandrel type (tube stayed more round) so the insert freely slid up past both.   It is almost 3" longer than the '69 neck, so this added length and two bends made it even trickier when trying to hold the insert in place while putting the rear retaining stake marks in.

Other issue with these longer necks is getting the JB Weld up to the back side of the insert.   The Syringe I'm supplying is just long enough for the '69 Neck, so I had to either find a longer syringe (unlikely) or come up with a way to extend the tip.   Bought some 1/4" & 5/16" I.D. poly tubing at Menards ... a 4" long piece of 1/4" is the extension and a 3/4" long piece of 5/16" as a coupler will work perfectly for the '65-66 and only adds $0.06 cost to the kit.   For the '67-68 2" extension is ideal, and 1" would be helpful for a '69 neck though not necessary.

Doug 

      

Summit 255312 (IFN91).JPG

Scott Drake C5ZZ-9034-B (CF028A).JPG

GMK-302175367 (FN92).JPG

Syringe Extensions.JPG

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I've had a couple of local Mustang owners asking for complete necks with inserts installed, so that was also why I was researching necks and what is available.  

Ideally I'd prefer to offer these as Galvanized or Zinc Plated only, but with all the various mfr's. and re-sellers of these things, it might be hard to actually go this route unless I were to strip and re-plate painted necks myself.   The Goodmark Necks were supposedly Galvanized, but both the '67-68 and  '69 Goodmark neck from same supplier were Painted ... my guess is Goodmark is just a reseller and switched mfr's.   So far the CJP FFP3 and the S-D C9ZZ-9034-A are zinc plated (CF028C '69 neck from same mfr.), as is the '65-66 S-D neck in the prior post (CF028A, again same mfr.), and the '67-68 S-D neck in the post below (FF028B).   The 22 Gallon conversion necks (1970 Tank in 65-66 or 67-68) ... CJP FFP11 and FFP12 are zinc plated.   For some reason these conversion necks are made out of a heavier gauge tubing than the other necks so they require the insert to be crimped down a bit further to slip up the neck.   And as stated 2 posts down, inserts for the Scott Drake '65-66 neck and likely O.E. '65-66 necks need the insert crimped down even further as the tubing used for this neck is 2-1/8" O.D. instead of 2-1/4". 

Complete Necks with Insert Installed Pricing:

'65-66 Painted ... $90.00 + shipping

'65-66 Plated ... $98.00 + shipping

'65-66 w/ 1970 22 Gal Tank Plated ... $119.00 + shipping

'67-68 Painted ... $97.00 + shipping

'67-68 Plated ... $94.00 + shipping

'67-68 w/ 22 Gal Tank Plated ... $119.00 + shipping 

1969 Painted ... $93.00 + shipping

1969 Plated ... $89.00 + shipping

1970 Painted ... $95.00 + shipping

1970 Plated ... $**.** + shipping (need to find a plated version to sell)

USPS Shipping Lower 48 States ... 1 Neck Assembly … $11.00

USPS Shipping Lower 48 States … 2 '65-66 Neck or 2 or 3 '67-68 Neck Assemblies … $14.00 

 

** OR **

2-1/4" OD x 0.049" Wall Tubing Insert Kit for your installation ... $25.00 NET + shipping

2-1/4" OD x 0.065" Wall Tubing Insert Kit for your installation … $27.00 NET + shipping

2-1/8" OD x 0.049" Wall Tubing Insert Kit for your Installation ... $30.00 NET + shipping ('65-66 only) 

Please state what year and neck type so I can send you the correctly crimped insert

USPS Shipping Lower 48 States ... $5.00 for 1-2 Kits or $8.00 for 3-4 kits

 

NOTE that paint gets disturbed on painted necks where insert is staked in place.   I will touch up these areas with silver paint on the outside to prevent corrosion, however color / brightness of my touch up does not match mfr. applied paint (of the 4 painted necks I've bought so far, there are at least 2 different silvers used).   However, with the bracing in the trunk on either side of the neck view of the stake mark locations are not something anyone will notice unless they are looking for it.   For plated necks, the quality of the plating job can vary and since I'm not having them plated or re-plated myself what you receive will be as the mfr. supplied it to me.      

Send me a PM if interested.

Doug

 

65-69 Std-Neck Family.JPG

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Got inserts staked and JB Welded in the painted '65-66 and '67-68 necks over the weekend and I'm happy to report that the "4 inch syringe extension" worked great with the JB Weld.

Also brought an insert with me to work this morning to see if it could be crimped down further to fit up the Scott Drake Plated '65-66 neck that uses 2-1/8" O.D. tubing instead of 2-1/4".   Crimped it down as far as the die set I used before would go and this was not far enough.   Grabbed the next smaller die set and continued to crimp it down until it finally would slide up the neck.   Final crimp dia. ended up being 1.980" (vs. 2.093" that works for the 2-1/4" O.D. necks).

Supposedly this Scott Drake neck is a very close reproduction to the O.E. neck, so I'd guess (hope) that this diameter would be good for an O.E. '64.5 to 66 neck too.

I plan on ordering '67-68 and 1970 Scott Drake necks as well as the '65-66 & '67-68 22 Gal tank conversion necks this week to verify these are all really plated and that there are no fitment issues of the insert.

Anyone that bought an insert kit that would like a COMPLETE NECK with INSERT instead let me know.    Once insert kit is received back, I will give you a full $29.00 CREDIT towards the purchase of a complete neck.

Thanks,

Doug 

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Got the '67-68 and 1970 Scott Drake necks in an the '67-68 is PLATED and made by the same company as the 65-66 & 1969 PLATED necks however disappointingly the 1970 is PAINTED even though the SD site states it is plated ... http://www.drakeautomotivegroup.com/Store/Product/D0ZZ-9034-A.aspx?wid=141

This 1970 neck is the first one I've seen made by CORVEX ... paint job almost looks brushed on.   This was the most $$ spent on a neck so far and also the shoddiest workmanship.   It is also more oval shaped in the bend so insert was going to require some extra massaging to get past the bend like the 67-68 Goodmark painted neck.   Painted one I bought from CJP a while back was cheaper, insert slipped past bend, and was far nicer / on par with the other painted necks.   A premium price for the Scott Drake name and this piece of junk will be sent back.   Did a little more digging on CORVEX and this series of filler neck P/N's (T01A,B,C,D) are associated with DII ... aka Dynacorn.

The PLATED '67-68 neck is a nice piece and also has no issue with getting insert up and around bend (unlike the Goodmark painted version).

SD C7ZZ-9034-A (CF028B).JPG

CORVEX FD01-TK06 (SD D0ZZ-9034-A).JPG

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Now that I've got samples of all years in hand, I went and borrowed the new pump nozzle again from the gas station to test insert location on all these other necks.   Also was able to try the nozzle with the neck installed on my car ... something I could not do last time as I only had the nozzle for a few hours.  

When I last had the nozzle I was test fitting with it parallel with the bend in the neck ... but with a POP-OPEN style CAP, nozzle needs to be off to one side or the other.   Something I certainly never thought of until now, but thankfully the insert location allows this.

Also tested nozzle in the 65-66 & 67-68 necks offset like this and it should not be an issue on these with pop-open caps either.

Nozzle & 69 to L 1.JPG

Nozzle & 69 to L 2.JPG

Nozzle & 69 to R 1.JPG

Nozzle & 69 to R 2.JPG

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I ordered 1 each of the '65-66 & '67-68 22 Gallon Tank conversion necks from CJP yesterday and should have next Thursday.  

Hopefully they are both PLATED (as shown in the CJP video) and the insert goes up and past the bend without extra effort.

Doug

 

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Bought another 1970 Dynacorn / Corvex T01D neck off of ebay this week because it really looked to be galvanized / plated in picture.   Being e-bay, I even asked the seller before buying to be sure and they came back saying YES it is GALVANIZED ... not painted.  

Received it yesterday and no it is NOT galvanized or plated it is indeed PAINTED.   It drop-shipped right from Dynacorn in Leetsdale, PA. and has a date code of 2017 (vs. the 2009 date code on the Scott Drake Corvex I received last week).   Much better PAINTED finish than the old stock SD one that looks "brush-painted".   This newer neck is on par with all the other painted necks in quality and finish / possibly powder coated.

Other than being painted, other issue with these Corvex necks is an "as-crimped insert" does not want to slip right up into place so they would require extra work to do so (unlike the painted CJP FFP4 that insert goes past bend without any issue and costs less).

So it looks like there really is no "PLATED 1970 NECK" available from anyone.   Only possibility would be if the current Scott Drake neck is from the same supplier as the other SD Plated necks I've seen / bought, but that would require further research.  

comparison pic of the two T01D Necks; SD / Corvex 2009 dated ... vs ... Dii / Corvex 2017 dated: 

Corvex-Dii 1970 Neck 2009 vs 2017.JPG

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So I’ve fitted my insert to my filler neck and filled up the mustang today. I ended up welding my insert in place as it was quite loose and didn’t want to trust the JB weld. 

At first I had some fuel splash back out but I hadn’t inserted the nozzle in far enough. Once I did that it worked great. Awsome improvement. 

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4 hours ago, Shep69 said:

 

 

19 hours ago, Midlife said:

Those 2 Corvex filler pipes look to be very different in length, no?

Optical Illusion I suspect ... sent the SD one back to Summit yesterday so can't re-look at them side by side again.   If they were that much different as they appear in the pic I think I would have noticed when I was comparing the two.   Other one will be going back once I get the OK from the e-bay seller. 

4 hours ago, Shep69 said:

So I’ve fitted my insert to my filler neck and filled up the mustang today. I ended up welding my insert in place as it was quite loose and didn’t want to trust the JB weld. 

At first I had some fuel splash back out but I hadn’t inserted the nozzle in far enough. Once I did that it worked great. Awsome improvement. 

Good to hear and thanks for posting.   

Actual welding is really the ideal method, but not everyone has the equipment or skill set to do it.   I've got MIG Welders at both home & work (110V import at home 3-phase Miller at work), but my self taught welding skills are more functional than pretty.   I'd think a skilled TIG welder could do a very clean and neat job.   

Can you share some pics of how you welded it in place to share with everyone ??

Thanks,

Doug  

I think the JB Weld method is more than adequate though if done properly.   Key is to clean both the insert and the neck with Lacquer Thinner or Acetone prior to inserting and having it tipped in the neck towards the bottom so you get a nice horseshoe shaped WEDGE of epoxy around the top.   On the more recent ones I've been sticking a loop of wire up the neck between the insert and top wall along side my retaining stick to make sure it is tipped this way before adding the stakes behind the insert.   Once secured in place I yank the wire out, then keep driving the retaining indents in deeper until there is no insert movement.   Once satisfied with the retainment, I then test neck for leaks (screw-on cap or duct tape over opening then fill with water), blow out with compressed air / allow to thoroughly air dry, then add the JB Weld.      

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