Haunted Treadmill

[Print Dad 58]

Hello All,

Well the middle of winter here and my wife has been

on my case to check out her treadmill.

 

I know this is a stretch for this forum but I was hoping a few

of the elctronic guru's could offer some ideas

 

The treadmill is an old Cadence treadmill and worked great

for years- -but now an issue.

 

When we plug the treadmill in - -after a moment or two it

starts to run - - I will explain a little better.

 

The idea is you are supposed to plug in the treadmill, 

insert a safety key and then shortly after the foot belt thing

starts to move. It is NOT supposed to move without the little key

thing inserted.

 

So as you can imagine - -the dang thing starts to turn without the key.

I STINK at electronics but can apply some thought,

So I figured maybe the micro switch was sticking where the key thing

goes in. I too all the covers off - sprayed the micro switch - -not change

 

Now here is where it gets weird - -the safety switch is part of the console - so I 

followed the ribbon wire down to a circuit board and disconnected the ribbon wire

from the board - -same thing - -the machine - -wants to start - - race up and slow down.

 

I figured by disconnecting the ribbon wire the machine should not move.

 

I should mention I tried searching the web for help and called the company - -they

say the machine is too old and there are no parts - - anyway

 

I guess before I gotta spend some more $$$ I was hoping that someone could

offer some ideas. The machine does have a schematic thing that tells the repair

tech to look at some flashing lights on the boards. There are two circuit boards

 

This is likely stupid but I sure could use a new set of hood push down latches

instead of a treadmill - - LOL

 

One other question -- is Pakrat still on the forums - -haven't seen him on

 

Thanks Print Dad

 

[Mach1 Driver 560]

Can you take a readable picture of the schematic and post it?

[69RavenConv 286]

The relay controlling the motor may have shorted in the run position (I would check this first).

 

It could be the safety switch is normally closed, and opens when you insert the key .If the switch is permanently open, you'll run, This would be a bad design choice IMO but possible, and unplugging the harness would produce an 'open' (run) condition.

 

It's also possible your controller has gone bad. It's hard to say without seeing things up close and personal.

 

Pakrat (and bNickel) have been gone a long time, hopefully they are ok and come back someday.

[Print Dad 58]

Hello Mach1 Driver and 69RavenConv,

I appreciate you both taking the time to look at this.

I also thank you on the update on Pak.

He lives not too far from us and I was hoping to meet

him at a show in lower N.H. someday. I wanted him to see

the car. 

Now back to the treadmill - -

I am thinking the key is supposed to turn things on.

The reason I say this is it has a string on it that I think yo are supposed

to attach to your belt area- - if you fall - -it pulls out the plastic straight

key and I think shuts off the treadmill.

 

I do have a paper that I am attaching - -but to me it looks like a bowl

of spaghetti - -I honestly stink at electrical- -

 

I am attaching the front and back of the sheet in hopes it may shed a little

light- - I could also take a picture of the boards if that would help at all.

 

I am thinking this machine is in trouble so I am up for trying about anything

 

Thanks guys at least for now my wife thinks I am doing something - -LOL

 

PLease let me know what you guys think

Thanks a lot

 

Sam

Scan-160210-0001.pdf

Scan-160210-0002.pdf

[Print Dad 58]

Hello Guys,

Don't know where the attached files came from - -have never seen them/

 

I just attached two PDF's of the sheet - -sorry for the confusion

[69RavenConv 286]

Not much to go on there. Running through the LED diagnostics might give you a hint. I think you're on the right track though - If it's running without the safety key then either the key mechanism or the control board is bad. The PWM LED might be a good indicator, it should vary it's blink/brightness with the speed setting. If it is constant or doesn't change with the speed control the controller might be bad.

 

(The new software attaches random thumbnails to some posts. Nobody knows why, but I deleted them for you)

[Print Dad 58]

Hello 69RavenConv,

Thanks for the reply and taking the time to check this out.

 

I wiggled some wires (my extent of knowledge) and tried the

treadmill - same old thing - -it goes nuts, starts to run real fast 

and then almost stops. I have read the directions and don't know

the PMW LED - - when I first plug in the machine, there are 3 lights on/

One light on the board I think controls the motor and 2 on the other board

Then is suddenly gets 4 lights on the second board.

 

So as you can tell - -I am not good at this at all. I was just hoping that there

was a loose connection, bad ground or something.

 

So now I guess my next idea is this - if my wife wants

 

Could I make some sort of reostat controller or something to regulate

power to the motor. I was thining I could get something at Radio Shack

mount it in a little box and that would run the motor without the

control board (where it tells speed, calories, time etc).

I am not certain if she would even want this - -but the incline motor works

and I was thinking if I made some sort of variable power switch to the motor

perhaps this would run.

 

I must admit elctrical scares me and I would only try this if it could be done

safely and I would never leave the machine plugged in.

 

What are your thoughts - or should I just break down and buy a new machine.

To be honest I am looking at some machines around $450.00 and they seem 

a lot cheaper than the machine we have.

 

I sure wish I had a better idea if it were a board I could replace but then again

I am not sure I could even find one

 

Thanks again - -I honestly appreciate your time and thoughts

 

oh yeah thanks for the explanation on the strange attached pixs

Sam
 

[MikeStang 247]

I have a Solution for you and while it may not be the BEST or even the Correct one I can almost guarantee it will work.

PLUS as an added bonus you can get those hood pins if the wife likes the repair.

 

First thing to do is go to Stines or to Radio Shack or where ever you can get some electronic goodies.

 

I will assume you have some wire nuts and wire etc... so will list only critical parts.

Purchase the following

 

1. Rheostat- Its a turn knob device that will vary out going current-- $20 bucks or less... You could even use a Celing fan slider switch that increases speed as you move it. Must be capable of handling 110V.

2. Toggle or flip switch suitable to holding 110 volts...You could even use a light switch.

 

2A. They make little safety key things that complete circuits that you can order online which is nothing but a female socket with your hot or ground leads in is and the key part has a metal piece in it that when inserted bridges the gap and completes the circuit...Could use this as a safety deal like the key card if you wanted to.

 

Provided you have some of the basic wiring stuff at home this is all u need to buy.

 

Now comes the fun part.

Apparently the control panel is not working as its designed to so I would say just don't even worry about that but depending on how the wiring is set up you could possible use some of it but I would just disregard it.

 

Your going to install the flip switch in line between the in coming power and the motor, then install the rheostat after the flip switch.

If done correctly the flip switch will power the unit on but the motor wont run until you turn the rheostat to the desired speed and your off and running.

 

I personally never understood those stupid card things on a tread mill because if you fall, by the time you hit the ground and the car pulls out of the socket your ass is going to get thrown from the tread mill anyhow so who cares if it keep running... Just more crap they put on to break

[69RavenConv 286]

The problem with the rheostat idea is you've got a DC motor on the treadmill. It looks like the Console produces a pulse width modulated signal (PWM) that the Power board converts to a 0-12VDC signal which is sent to the Motor Controller board where it drives the 0-95 VDC output to the motor.

 

You could get creative and try to manipulate the 0-12VDC input signal to the Motor Controller with a potentiometer, or replace the DC motor with an AC unit and control it like MikeStang suggested, look for a new console board, or something else????

 

If you're not skilled in the art of electricity, you might be better off looking at a new unit, or maybe you've got a friend who is good with electricity. You've gotta be careful around those voltage levels.

[MikeStang 247]

Didn't know it was 12VDC

[Print Dad 58]

Hello Guys,

Thanks and I really mean that. I know this is a goofy issue but

we both like the treadmill and I would love to fix it.

As a side note - -I can wire a house fan and do have wires, wire nuts,'strippers

and things like that. Mike, I totally understand what you wrote and I am pretty certain

I could do that without much issue.

 

69RavenConv - -thanks. When you wrote that stuff I now have a better idea of what is going on.

I understand the swap from AC to DC and that may help me find a part on the internet,

I do know what a Rheostat is (like my headlight switch on the mach).

I do work in a vocational school so I could get and extra set of eyes if

I try to swap out the motor - - that I could handle

We don't have an electronics dept in my school by the way. We do have 16 departments

including electrical.

 

Not sure what my wife wants to do now - -she really wants to get this fixed

but not sure who would have access to parts.

 

I think I am going to try to look on the old interweb for a controller - -but not sure what that is.

Is that one of the circuit boards? 

 

Well - - I still want to get my hood push downs. Ours are getting a little shabby

since they are original and now that the car is all painted they could use replacement.

 

I am off of work next week (Feb Vaca) and I will have a little more time to look for old parts,

 

Well I wanted to let you know - -I am still going to try to fix this at least untill I exhaust all ideas.

 

I am attaching a pix of our Mach in case you guys had not seen it or forget what she now looks like

we have owned her about 40 years and was black when I bought it - -but the original color was

Grabber green so that is why we went back to the original color besides don't see many around here

I may have a few questions on the Mach as I am having a few gauge issues - -but I plan to look into that

I can test the gauges and know where all the senders are and I also know that CVR on the board

 

Just too damn cold here - at about zero now and temp dropping  LOL

Thanks again - -Sam

 

Thanks guys 

 

 

[Print Dad 58]

UPDATE #2

 

Hello guys,

I just did a real quick search on the internet for the motor contoller.

I found this

 

https://www.treadmilldoctor.com/weslo-cadence-lx45-treadmill-motor-control-board#prettyPhoto

 

It is $100.00  but it is the one for our machine.

 

Now the issues (yup still a few)

 

1. - Is this likely the cause of the trouble on our machine (if you bet would you think this

is the issue - -I would hate to spend the money and not fix it - -I would be happy to fix it for 100

 

2. -It would appear to be pretty simple swap - -a few screws and plug and play with the wires/

Am I correct in that assumption?

 

So what do you guys suggest - -should I order the part?

Just to review - -at times it seems as though everything works as far a capability

to run fast - -the incline motor works, the control panel lights up and has numbers

seems like things work just not correctly.

 

I really appreciate your educated gues guys and yes I understand this is only a guess

or hunch - no guarantees  - 

Thanks- I should have looked at the web sooner - but tried the company and it is just too

old for them to have parts in stock

 

SAm

[69RavenConv 286]

Of course it's hard to troubleshoot stuff on on the internet but based upon your description the motor controller might be the problem. Check all the connectors, the thermal switch, and wiring first. Hate to see you waste $100 if that's not it.

 

You've got 3 boards on the schematic, the console, power board and motor controller. It's probably one of the three.

 

Since everything lights up and the motors run, the power board is probably ok.If yo've got a voltmeter, you could check each of the inputs and outputs to be sure.

 

Since you get the display and incline settings, the console is probably ok. That leaves the motor controller which is the $100 part. It has some high power parts on it to drive the 0-95 VDC motor which could fail from age or if your motor is binding, etc..

 

If you have a voltmeter, you might want to check the WHITE and BLACK wires to see if the console is sending a 0-12 VDC (0 for slow, 12 for fast). If it is, disconnect the motor and check the RED and BLACK wires going to the motor to see if you get 0-95 VDC proportional to the 0-12V input. If not, the board might be bad. If it is, maybe the motor is bad??

 

Good luck, and yes, I remember your car very well, I love the grabber colors

[Print Dad 58]

Hello Raven,

First I have to say THANKS to you and Mike.

I know this is a somewhat silly topic but it is real important

to my wife of 40 plus years.

 

When I try to diagnose an issue - I try to apply logic as I go

seems like you have applied logic to your "educated guess"

 

I like that - and think it is worth the try. I just ordered the part

and will post resylts in a few days.

 

As far as the color of our car - I must admit the grabber green has 

grown on me. A huge difference from the Black that was on her 

for 38 years since we bought her. I also think it is kinda cool that

the car looks like it did when it was made.

Around here (MA) don't see many grabber green cars and it kinda stands

out. I am glad we finally took it back to the original color. I think it looks cool

Don't get me wrong she is a driver but we like it and it looks in good shape.

I have tried to treat the car with the respect and love I think she deserves

Thanks for the help and please check in a few days for some results o

 

Thanks - -Sam

[Mach1 Driver 560]

Sorry to be late to the party, I was expecting to get an email from the forum but didn't. I found this site:http://www.fitnessrepairparts.com/equipment/Select/4484/Weslo/Cadence-LX45-WLTL54570

 

The power board is no longer available but the motor controller MC60 is available. I also saw this further up in the thread. You said that you disconnected a ribbon from the power board- I assume that goes from the reed switch to the connection at the top left of the power board. It makes sense that the key is a magnet and closes the reed when inserted. Can you use an ohmmeter to see if the reed switch is operating?

I have no knowledge of this machine other than reading from the pdf and the LEDs were built-into the system so that a problem could be diagnosed 

Power board LEDs

LD1- should be on

LD2- on when you have a speed set, off when not

LD3- on when on/off switch is on

LD-4- ditto

 

MC-60 LEDs

D6- should be on, if key is in and D7 is lit, if not the controller is toast

D7- should flicker, if not and D11 is on then speed pot or wire is the problem

D11- is this on?- if not its the controller

D16- if it lights frequently the drive belt is tight

 

There are at least two possibilities: the power board or the motor controller are at fault. If the status of the LEDs seems to indicate that it is the motor controller MC60 then its probably worth replacing it, but my instincts say it could be the power board because it runs with the key out and presumably disconnected. If an ohmmeter check of the reed switch showed it was operating that makes me lean toward a power board failure. Use the LEDs to help make a determination. I would not try to jury rig some fix, as that would bypass all the safeties and someone could get hurt.

 

My two cents, and good luck

[Print Dad 58]

Hello guys,

Thanks - -I am, likely in over my head on this.This forum

is giving me fits trying to respond

Mach1 Driver - -you seem to have a good understanding of this BUT

I am lost - -I don't even know where or what the reed switch is

I am attaching a pix that I have labeled a little in the hopes that it may

make some sense to you

The ribbon wire I disconnected runs down from the upper control panel where you set the

speed etc.

I disconnected the ribbon wire at the lower board

When I plug the machine in - lights A and B are steady and bright - -after a moment light C

flickers - -This is all without the "key" in.

When I insert the key - light C flickers a bit more.

Then if I hit the start button light C flickers more - and Light D and E flicker.

SOmetimes all the lights will come on and light E will flicker or get dim based on the speed

 

If I hit the start button on the top control panel - sometimes the machine starts and all the lights

get bright as the machine seems to get running - -then the speed slows and often stops.

 

So bottom line - -i don't know jack and I am in trouble

 

One other but of info - -when I took the top "control panel thing off - -the key switch looks

like a micro switch - -has an arm sticking out that the key pushes against

 

I don't know the numbers of the LED

 

Heck I am not even certain of the part I bought - I think it is the board on the right

of the picture

I don't think this is going to turn out the way I was hoping LOL

 

I am waiting for the board to come and will install that

 

I think I am in a tough spot - and my wife thinks I am making progress  LOL

 

So here is a picture that I labelled and hope it tells something

 

Thanks again guys- -SAm

Boards.pdf

[Mach1 Driver 560]

OK, from the picture and wire diagram I can tell that the left board is the power board and the right one is the motor control. The ribbon you disconnected goes to the console. From your description apparently they have replaced the magnetic reed switch shown in the wire diagram with a micro switch- no big deal. The plug on the board for this switch has two black wires in it and is at the bottom left of the left circuit board. If you have an ohmmeter take the plug off and check for continuity- one meter lead to each terminal in the plug. Don't do this with it plugged in. With the key in it should have continuity and with it out none. If that works then that isn't contributing to the problems- plug it back in.

There should be two more LEDs on the left board. I only see two but I don't think I can see the entire board. The resolution isn't good enough for me to identify the LEDs. I think E=LD2, B=LD3, A=D11. The pdf says how they will be labeled on the circuit board. Use the same nomenclature as the pdf or we will both be lost.

Now you have some homework THAT ONLY YOU CAN DO: Identify the LEDs, make sure everything is plugged in as normal and run a test. List what the LEDs do and when they do it. Identify the LEDs by their proper names- LD1, or D16 etc. Hopefully that will tell us something, and good luck.

[Print Dad 58]

Hello Mach1Driver,

I just sent you a PM - I couldn't figure how to add my board picture so I am posting it

here if I can

 

I am still working out things on the updated computer and things look different

 

Sorry of that

[Mach1 Driver 560]

If you can post a picture of your multimeter I could tell you how to use the ohmmeter function. I will need to read the dial for the settings and see the markings around the plugs where the wires plug in. Its easy to use- don't sweat it.

 

Step 2, D-7 indicates you are getting a speed control signal and it could be the speed pot or wire. The wire diagram does not show these so I can only assume that they are in the console. If you can get at them we could do an ohmmeter test. A picture would be good too.

 

Step 6, D-16 indicates a worn walking belt, or walking board (under the belt I assume), or tight walking drive belt.

 

Did the company say what a "E" means when trying to get into calibration mode (probably "error")?

 

So you dropped a 350Chevy into a 61 Lark?

[Print Dad 58]

Hello Mach1Driver,

It is late her now and the meter is in the garage so I can't take a picture of it now but

will tomorrow

I wanted to make a few comments to try and answer a couple of the questions

 

Step 6 - - Last year I replaced the walking belt and the board under it is in good shape.

I will try to loosen the belt a little bit and see if any difference.

 

The techs did not tell me what the E stands for.

 

I am not certain if this forum allows me to post a short video but I may try that tomorrow

as well

 

I can take some pictures of the machine components including the ribbon wire etc.

I have most of the covers off.

 

Yes we dropped in a 350 with a 700R4 - actually we dropped it in several time  LOL

Because the car is a vert - there is a cross brace under the car so the train comes out through

the front. When we first dropped the motor and train - there was an issue with the transmission

so it had to come bak out for a rebuild. We pulled the stuff - took the transmission to a shop 

and re-installed - -yup you guessed it - trouble even after the rebuild. Pulled again and finally

things are running well.

This is really not a huge job but we are doing it in his home garage (no lift) and he is 79 and

I am 64 - -so it was a bit of work. I think it came out pretty nice - -Not my type of car but

he likes it a lot and he is a friend.

I am attaching a pix of the Lark just to give you a look

 

I hope to post more Sunday - but I did promise my wife to work on the chairs  LOL

Thanks again - -be well - -

SAm

[Mach1 Driver 560]

I can't say that the Lark appeals to me either, but it makes you smile

[Print Dad 58]

Hello Mach1Driver, Don't like to use your real name on the forum just in PM's

but couldn't figure the attachments in the PM

I really am SORRY for not getting back to you.

I have been just so busy

Trying to finish re-doing the chairs for my wife

Trying to help our elder friend (with the Lark) he is coming along after

a knee replacement - and we try to run a few errands for him and pick him

up at night to take him to Dunkins where we meet the car people at night

My job is really getting me - - I am giving serious thought to retiring after 30 years

even though I love teaching - -but HATE all the politics and paper work.

My shop (Printing) is always swamped with rush work

Sorry _I got off the track

 

So my wife keeps giving me a few shots that the treadmill is not getting worked on

 

I have a few of these inexpensive multi meters and I kinda understand the different

scales - -but am LOSt at what I do with them.

I do know there is an AC and a DC section Oh boy am I uneducated LOL

 

So I am attaching a few pictures - -even the camera is acting up - -I think just

uncharged batteries or at least I hope so,

 

So here is what I have - - 

 

I have been thinking of peeling off the covering that covers the ribbon wire

to the motor control board. There is a "sheathing' that covers the ribbon wire and I was

thinking there may be a couple of broken wires or something

 

I sure would appreciate your suggestions and advice - -

 

I also mentioned I would like some advice on the Mach gauges but that is for a warmer time

if I can ever get out of this funk

 

Thanks SAm

[Mach1 Driver 560]

Huh, I haven't seen one of the bottom types in a while.  They have what is called a D'Arsonval meter movement- let's start with that one. put the leads in the bottom two sockets for "-com", and "+-V-ohm-A". Turn the pointer to Rx1 and connect the lead tips together. Turn the red "ohms adjust" thumb wheel until the pointer goes to zero on the right side (with the leads touching). Try new batteries if that doesn't work, or try the Rx1K scale. That means you would need to multiply whatever you measure times 1000. Don't worry about the numbers- I happen to like the old meters because when you are just looking for continuity and you see them swing to the right you know you've got it.

 

To use the other meter put leads in the "V-ohm-mA" and "Com" sockets...the bottom two on the right side. Turn it to Ohm 200 which is just about straight down. Turn the yellow button on and make sure it has fresh batteries. Usually they will register a 1 in the display until you touch the lead tips together and then it should read around zero or something close. 

 

Just for giggles, turn the dial on the red meter to 200k. Lick the end of your finger and place the lead tips close to each other in the wet area. You should be able to read some resistance.The number doesn't matter, and NO you will not get a shock. The meter is using it's battery to push a small current across your skin. 

 

Now what to measure? Unplug power from the treadmill and unplug the connector going to the left board in the bottom left corner. It has two black wires in it. Put the key in the machine and touch your meter leads, one to each terminal of the black wires in the plug. It should read somewhere near zero or (swing to the right) and with the key out, the red meter should read 1 (or all the way to the left on the black meter). Hopefully you'll to able to tell if the key/micro switch operates.

 

From the instructions it says there is a speed pot or the related wire that may be faulty. A pot is a "Potentiometer". They are variable resistors you can change the resistance of by turning the knob. Apparently there is one in the console, but it doesn't show in the wire diagram. The back of the pot will be marked with the resistance... something like 5k or 50k. That would be 5000 or 50,000 ohms or whatever. I wouldn't try measuring it's resistance without removing it from the circuit. The meter has a battery that could damage transistors or chips in the circuit. See if you can follow the wires back and unplug them.

 

This should get you into enough mischief for now, let me know how it goes.

[Print Dad 58]

Hello Mach1Driver,

Just thought I would give you an update - - the new treadmill arrived yesterday.

I gave up on the old one - I pulled it apart and saved the motor, boards

and things I thought may be useful to someone.

 

The new treadmill has a lot of cool features - a fan, stereo speakers

and a bunch of things my wife likes. So the room is painted (ceiling and walls) the

new treadmills working great and my wife is happy.

 

I did run out to the garage and start the Mach - - slow to fire up but once

running it sounds pretty good.

 

Thanks a lot for helping me - -I did learn some at least I know a little

about the meters

 

Thanks again - - Jim (or Sam) - -Print Dad