Machspeed 219 Report post Posted February 9, 2016 I need to replace my driver’s side fender apron and likely the radiator support assembly on my 69 Mach. I’ve searched the web and am not finding much, especially on the radiator support assembly. A good video would be nice, but a pictorial would be fine as well. Can someone advise? Also, when does CJ Pony put on their big sheet metal sale? Thanks, John Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rsmach1 71 Report post Posted February 9, 2016 Here's one for a 65, the 69-70 isn't much different. I will say he welded the apron from the wrong side, the plug weld holes should be on the apron, not the tower, so you weld to the thicker metal on the shock tower. For the sheetmetal if you are looking for dynacorn, you can find better pricing then CJ, I picked one apron from restorationperformance.com and another off discount auto on eBay. For the support it looks like dynacorn only offers it with the crossmember now, if you don't need the crossmember Drake sells it without, and you can get that at Summit cheaper. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ridge Runner 1,113 Report post Posted February 9, 2016 The Dynacorn radiator support is a bit heavier gauge .It is just as easy to replace the one with the cross brace as it is to do one with out ,may even be easier .It pretty much sets it self ,it simply goes between the rails .Take several measurements before you remove the old parts and it will be simple . Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Machspeed 219 Report post Posted February 9, 2016 Thanks fellas. I will measure but isn't there also a schematic drawing for this? Seems I've seen something on this. I wrecked my car years ago and damaged the driver's side front apron and radiator support. I purchased an entire front end off a 69 coupe and had a reputable shop do the repair but things are noticeable in that repair. Also, I question some of the positioning of those panels, thus the note on the schematic. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rsmach1 71 Report post Posted February 10, 2016 There's a pic here, and scroll down for the dementions. http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=4158.0 Read the post with the measurements as it explains where he took them from. Should help. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rsmach1 71 Report post Posted February 10, 2016 Ridge, sent you a PM Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ridge Runner 1,113 Report post Posted February 10, 2016 There is really only a couple of measurements you will need .The radiator support can only set in one place so if the front frame rails are not bent that is easy . The two front inner fender aprons line up perfectly with the front holes in the aprons and the radiator support so the measurements you really need are the length from the cowl to the front of the radiator support . Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fvike 173 Report post Posted February 10, 2016 This is my car getting the whole front replaced. Notice how the car is set in a jig, before welding. I don't have my 1969 chassis book here at home, but I found this on google. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MikeStang 247 Report post Posted February 11, 2016 Nice Work Fvike. MachSped, I assume your going to do the repairs yourself? Like ridge said the Apron lines up easily with the shock tower. get measurements from where he stated and If it were me I would probably replace the apron 1st and weld it to the tower area and leave it unwelded at the core support, then maybe weld a small support brace from one apron to the other to set the distance apart and hold it all in place, then cut the support loose and stick the new one on and fit it into place. Everyone has their own ways of doing it based on their knowledge, and tools at hand. Ridge and Fvike have all kinds of cool tools and knowledge and can knock it out quick and accurate, and some of us have a good amount of tools and knowledge, but cant get it done near as quickly but can make it all fit together and hit all the critical dimensions but it might not be as pretty HaHa. I just wish there were more folks in our area that did the kind of work Ridge and some of the others on here do so that I could go hang out and learn More. Just do the best you can and measure 3 times and cut once. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fvike 173 Report post Posted February 11, 2016 Everyone has their own ways of doing it based on their knowledge, and tools at hand. Ridge and Fvike have all kinds of cool tools and knowledge and can knock it out quick and accurate, and some of us have a good amount of tools and knowledge, but cant get it done near as quickly but can make it all fit together and hit all the critical dimensions but it might not be as pretty HaHa. I would like to point out that I had a collision repair shop to do it. They have all the right tools and equipment. I like to say I got enough knowledge about cars in general to know when I should seek help, and not try to repair stuff myself. I would have used 3x the time, and gotten a 3x worse result if I had done it myself ;) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Machspeed 219 Report post Posted February 12, 2016 Hey fellas, thanks a ton. I have all the equipment and skills to fix it, just doing my homework before I start tearing things apart. And fvike, thanks buddy, your pictures tell me a lot. Now, best tool to cut out spot welds....lol? Been doing a little research and want thoughts from you guys. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rsmach1 71 Report post Posted February 12, 2016 I picked up a Blair spotweld cutter from NPD, it's dbl sided so when one side gets dull you flip the blade over, works well for me. https://www.npdlink.com/store/products/spot_weld_cutter_hardened_by_blair-106724-1.html I've used it to remove both front aprons, radiator support, and taillight panel. Still cuts great and haven't had to flip the blade over yet. Just need to be careful not to cut too deep. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ridge Runner 1,113 Report post Posted February 12, 2016 Blair is about the best one i have used .I bought the smaller kit ,i think i goes from 1/4 inch up to 3/4 inch .I use them all the time for cutting spot welds ,or just cutting a very clean hole . Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites