Brembo Brake Question

[hankfink 0]

Hi everyone first time posting here. I was looking at DSE's build of the Charger and it has ABS, stability control, the new drivetrain its as if they just took everything over from a new one and put it on the 1969. I just purchased a '69 Mach 1 project that needs a complete restore and I was googling around for Brembos from a GT500 to put on it. I can't find any answers, just late model upgrades from the SN95 and the Cobras being the bigger OEM ones. I also have a 50th LE Mustang (love the go, and the stop) and wish I could do something similar to what DSE is doing with the Charger. I want a coyote and T56, and brake setup from Ford Performance. Is it possible? My daily driver is a '64 Falcon with upgraded front discs and I hate to have random rotors, pads and calipers from different makes and models to keep track of. Does anyone know of 14 or 15" Mustang Brembo's on a 69-70?

[fvike 173]

Welcome to the site!

 

The only brakes that I'm aware of that is 14"-15" for the OEM 69 and 70 Mustang spindles are the Baer Extreme+. If you plan on going with DSE's suspension, you got more choices.

[barnett468 418]

Willwood also makes brakes to fit the stock spindles and axle, and their radial calipers with their thickest rotors are the best they make.

 

.

[RPM 1,190]

Welcome to the forum Hank! But you have to tell us a bit about yourself and your 69 including pics, it's State law! :)

[SA69mach 39]

A Coyote transplant into your 69 is major surgery, requires removal of the shock towers, which is not a big deal.  It is the bracing and cradle design that you need to give some hard thought, a lot of googling and reading, and some strict engineering design.

 

It has been done plenty of times.  doing it right ?  well, not every time.    Lot of money.  like 20K lot of money.

 

A stroker 408 or 427 based on a 351 small block is easier, cheaper, and still gives you a lot of go.   However, your car, your dream, your money.

 

I have both Baer and Wilwood brakes on my cars, and the both are great stoppers.  Baer probably a slight edge in firmness and feel, but not much difference.  Late model Mustang/Ford brakes will be cheaper,.  All of those choices will require 17" wheels or bigger, so factor that in to the cost too.

[barnett468 418]

I have both Baer and Wilwood brakes on my cars, and the both are great stoppers.  Baer probably a slight edge in firmness and feel, but not much difference. 

 

Just in case you didn't know, Wilwoods radial calipers provide a slightly firmer feel than their non radial ones because they flex less.

[hankfink 0]

Thanks for your responses so far everyone. I've read throughout so many forums about the creaking noise wilwoods make (on hot rods, muscle cars, imports, etc) and I was watching a smoking tire video and the "never feels right" wilwood issue came up. I'm sure they're 100% better than my drums but I think Baer seems to have the least amount of criticism. Reason why I was so interested in Brembo setup was because it was OEM quality (safe) and so readily available and they're awesome on my 2015. I have a daily driver '64 Falcon hardtop and my "upgraded" disc brake setup feel kinda sucks and didn't want to end up with something like that on the '69. The Mustang is an S code, not sure if the 390 I have is original to the car (bought the bare shell, with certain parts that came with it including a block). I've done a lot of searching and it seems like that big block would be costly to build with limited results. I'd like to keep the engine around $10k. I have an '86 5.0 HO but stroking that to 347, internally balanced, built to last would cost about the same as a coyote. I'm definitely not set, but since its basically a shell that needs body work I'm sort of starting from the ground up. I'll post pictures soon. I really like the Agent 47 Mustangs! I was just thinking wouldn't it be nice to use factory performance brakes. I drive the snot out of my cars, even my '53 Vicky with the flatty. Don't care about the shinny as much as the attitude and performance. Thanks again guys!

[barnett468 418]

Thanks for your responses so far everyone. I've read throughout so many forums about the creaking noise wilwoods make (on hot rods, muscle cars, imports, etc) and I was watching a smoking tire video and the "never feels right" wilwood issue came up. I'm sure they're 100% better than my drums but I think Baer seems to have the least amount of criticism. 

 

I've done a lot of searching and it seems like that big block would be costly to build with limited results. I'd like to keep the engine around $10k.

 

I have an '86 5.0 HO but stroking that to 347, internally balanced, built to last would cost about the same as a coyote.

 

The complaints about Wilwoods are typically on non radial calipers because that is the one most people buy because they cost less, so one should not group all Willwood brakes into the same bunch.

 

Another problem is that some people use Hawwk HPS pads and they have been known to make a little noise on occasion so thee people that use those on Wilwood calipers may be attributing the noise they to the wrong part etc.

 

As far as big block build having limited results, I don't understand what you mean, you can stroke those to over 500 cubes and bolt on some Jon Kaase heads etc and have ridiculous power but they cost more to build than a small block.

 

The cost killer with a Coyote engine is not the engine itself so much but rather the other $8,000.00 you have to spend on headers, a cross member and removing your shock towers etc.

.

[Rsanter 152]

Depending on how much you are willing to cut up your mach, you could put the 2015 platform under the 69 body. This has been done several times over the years as the dimensions of the car are similar in many ways.

One of the hardest parts will be getting a new platform from a totaled car that the platform is still intact enough to use.

 

Currently I am working with a friend putting a coyote in a 70 mach and yes it's a lot of work. If you want to do,something like,that you better know how to weld, how to fabricate, as well as how to work on cars.

 

Bob

[Alan_Mac 48]

I have manual Baer brakes on my 70 with drum brake spindles.  13" 6P on the front and 13" SS4 in the rear with the drum parking brake.  I special ordered them from Baer, the calipers are black with no paint in the logo. The rear have a two piece rotor that match the front. Excellent product, they bolt right on and work great.  They also don't change the track width dimensions.  I cant really see the need for anything bigger on the street.  I have 17" wheel vintiques  rims and the face of the caliper has about 1/8 - 3/16 space between the inside of the rim.  I think 18" rims are needed for 14" calipers.        http://s124.photobucket.com/user/Alan_MacDougall/media/Mach1/DSCN1139_zpsrmxxp7rq.jpg.html       

[SA69mach 39]

Just in case you didn't know, Wilwoods radial calipers provide a slightly firmer feel than their non radial ones because they flex less.

I am running the Wilwood 6R Superlight's (6 piston)  with lightweight hubs, but I run DOT5 silicon fluid on that car, and that is probably why they are not as firm as the Baer Big 6 set on the other car.  I run DOT4 fluid with the Baer brakes. 

[barnett468 418]

I am running the Wilwood 6R Superlight's (6 piston)  with lightweight hubs, but I run DOT5 silicon fluid on that car, and that is probably why they are not as firm as the Baer Big 6 set on the other car.  I run DOT4 fluid with the Baer brakes. 

 

xlnt, yeah I have done direct back to back testing between dot 4 and dot 5 silicon fluid and the silicon definitely made the brakes feel spongier.

[Tenthumbs 2]

I have manual Baer brakes on my 70 with drum brake spindles.  13" 6P on the front and 13" SS4 in the rear with the drum parking brake.  I special ordered them from Baer, the calipers are black with no paint in the logo. The rear have a two piece rotor that match the front. Excellent product, they bolt right on and work great.  They also don't change the track width dimensions.  I cant really see the need for anything bigger on the street.  I have 17" wheel vintiques  rims and the face of the caliper has about 1/8 - 3/16 space between the inside of the rim.  I think 18" rims are needed for 14" calipers.        http://s124.photobucket.com/user/Alan_MacDougall/media/Mach1/DSCN1139_zpsrmxxp7rq.jpg.html       

Alan,

 

What type of master cylinder are you running with the Baer package?  I plan on doing something very similar (Baer front, Cobra rear).  Also, what brand are those upper control arms?

 

Thanks!

[rwcstang 201]

 

I want a coyote and T56, and brake setup from Ford Performance. Is it possible? My daily driver is a '64 Falcon with upgraded front discs and I hate to have random rotors, pads and calipers from different makes and models to keep track of. Does anyone know of 14 or 15" Mustang Brembo's on a 69-70?

 

ah man! no pics of the car?! first off, welcome to the site! 

 

1 question, you got a blank check? to do a modular swap i was quoted $12k thats if everything went smoothly... lol

 

before choosing brakes, be sure the coyote swap is what u are going with!

 

going modular will change everything including your front suspension and brakes. you will need to convert to an IFS suspension or go with DS de-alum frame or mustangs to fears kit. Like others have specified here the towers will be removed to fit the larger modular motor. also the trans tunnel may need re-work to fit the t56, though some can fit them with no mods but thats if your using a push rod motor. 

 

as for brakes, contact Mustang Steve and let them know what you want to do maybe they can create a bracket to fit those calipers. 

I have the 99-04 cobra brake conversion, but was told with my kit will accept Cobra R Brembo's, but that company is out of business now. try mustang steve first. 

 

if your going to buy coyote, start looking for totaled out mustangs or f150s that carried them, you can probably buy a engine to trans with ecu for around prolly 6k+ try mps salvage to start looking at numbers..etc

 

I also posted a few links for you to study up on & to start adding numbers..lol

 

http://www.mustangsteve.com/cobrabrakes.html

http://www.detroitspeed.com/1964-1970-mustang-products/1964-1970-mustang-products.html

http://www.mustangstofear.com/page.php?page=parts_catalog&yr=69-70&cat=suspension∏=independent_front_suspension

[hankfink 0]

Thanks for the response guys I had trouble logging in. I'm going to contact Mustang Steve about fitting late model brakes on it. Reason why was because front and rear costs under $2k for all four corners link which costs less than a comparable kit from Baer or Wilwood.

[RPM 1,190]

I'm the kind of guy who'll do a brake conversion to save a few bucks. But ya know, for $2k, it'd be mighty tough finding a better brake set, and you've got Brembos.

[MikeStang 247]

Have a guy locally doing a coyote swap into his 69, I have chatted with him on FB a bit and followed his progress and its no easy task getting that motor in our cars.

He has had problems finding parts and has had to make a few himself and he is doing it the right way.

getting that Motor/Trans combo in will likely require some floor pan/firewall mods as well, altho I don't remember what the process is as its been a while since I looked into it, but it can be done.

I would opt for a stroked 408 for 8k b4 trying the Coyote swap personally and I love a good challenge, but that's almost to much sugar for a dime

[rwcstang 201]

Have a guy locally doing a coyote swap into his 69, I have chatted with him on FB a bit and followed his progress and its no easy task getting that motor in our cars.

He has had problems finding parts and has had to make a few himself and he is doing it the right way.

getting that Motor/Trans combo in will likely require some floor pan/firewall mods as well, altho I don't remember what the process is as its been a while since I looked into it, but it can be done.

I would opt for a stroked 408 for 8k b4 trying the Coyote swap personally and I love a good challenge, but that's almost to much sugar for a dime

yeah, I figured alot of modification will be needed to do this. I suggest a 408w stroker aswel with an EFI conversion should do the trick.

[MustangChuck 16]

For your possible donor cars, you can check out Ride Safely -- HTTP://www.ridesafely.com/. I picked up a donor 94 GT from there a few years ago and look often at what's currently available. Also, you can look for The Parts Farm --https://www.facebook.com/partsfarm/ or http://stores.ebay.com/thepartsfarm. I have not dealt with them, but they get in a lot of modular stuff. Reasonable prices.

 

Like others have mentioned, I'd go with a stroked Windsor. John Kaase heads were mentioned, but I don't think he makes them for the 390. Windsor and 385 series, yes.

 

Welcome and good luck!

Chuck