My Vintage Air Gen VI install

[newstang 388]

heres a better shot

 

[GSEninja 12]

Thanks for bringing this back from the dead! Question for anyone that has installed the Vintage Air System

The firewall on my 69 has been completely sealed off where the old heater box came in, the metal was cut out and a patch welded in. https://photos.app.goo.gl/4czR47scN4dCVpgMA

All of the hoses and old air "distribution box" are gone. https://photos.app.goo.gl/5ayueu8MMRmUbzPf6

I do have the A/C style dash with all vents in place (Bluetooth receiver currently in the front vent spot). https://photos.app.goo.gl/5Zq9R75dMvoveE1q7

Based off the above post, it looks like my situation is ideal for the Vintage Air system, seems like a complete standalone unit.

Can anyone confirm?

[newstang 388]

i use vintage air in all my builds, it is pretty stand alone. 

[aslanefe 333]

4 hours ago, GSEninja said:

Thanks for bringing this back from the dead! Question for anyone that has installed the Vintage Air System

The firewall on my 69 has been completely sealed off where the old heater box came in, the metal was cut out and a patch welded in. https://photos.app.goo.gl/4czR47scN4dCVpgMA

All of the hoses and old air "distribution box" are gone. https://photos.app.goo.gl/5ayueu8MMRmUbzPf6

I do have the A/C style dash with all vents in place (Bluetooth receiver currently in the front vent spot). https://photos.app.goo.gl/5Zq9R75dMvoveE1q7

Based off the above post, it looks like my situation is ideal for the Vintage Air system, seems like a complete standalone unit.

Can anyone confirm?

I would think that you need 2 holes for heater hose from the engine to ac unit and 2 holes for the ac lines from the compressor to ac unit. Or just one big hole for all 4 hoses/lines. 

[GSEninja 12]

6 hours ago, newstang said:

i use vintage air in all my builds, it is pretty stand alone. 

Great to know! Moving to NC pretty soon and I have a feeling I'll need it out there,  thank you!

3 hours ago, aslanefe said:

I would think that you need 2 holes for heater hose from the engine to ac unit and 2 holes for the ac lines from the compressor to ac unit. Or just one big hole for all 4 hoses/lines. 

No problem cutting the holes, just making sure I won't need the old mounting hole, thank you!

[Rich Ackermann 174]

Nice work. I am planning to convert my non-A/C 70 mach to A/C. So I'll be following your progress closely.

I am using A/C original vents. So for the lower dash vent holes I made a template for the holes from an original A/C dash to get the size and position right and cut them out on my non-A/C dash. I used a clear plastic mylar for the template so I could see the dash thru it. I cut it with a nibbler on a drill and then filed it. Not easy with the contour of the dash.

My dash has a nasty hole in it where the drivers vent is, so I had little to loose by doing it. It turned out perfect. 

 

[RPM 1,190]

2 hours ago, Rich Ackermann said:

Anybody want a copy of the left and right templates let me know and I can email them to you.

Yes please:

robertpmcdougal@gmail.com

[Rich Ackermann 174]

Has anybody with a vintage Air A/C conversion kit tried installing the optional lower vent center dash bezels instead of installing them in the stock location above the radio? I want to use the stock A/C vent location above the radio bezel for a pair of gauges (Volt & Oil) as I have a stock tach in the dash cluster., so I am thinking of locating the vents below the dash on either side of the heater controls and center console. Looking for any feedback/pointers  on placement and air duct routing from someone who has tried this with their Vintage Air kit. 

Here is a picture I spliced together of the upper dash with the gauges installed in in the stock vent location and lower dash with the Vintage Air optional vents placed below the dash on either side of the console. I am not very good at computer graphics, but the picture shows what I am thinking of.

 

[Kris 90]

Question for you other guys that have done the vintage air swap. If your using the factory under dash harness did you swap the 14A heater fuse to the 30A ac fuse in the fuse block? The fuse box indicates both for the same hole but would be different amperage depending on heater only or AC equipped. Also how did you get the wires through the firewall to the AC box? The 3/8 hole that comes on the plate is to small for the connector to fit through. Did you enlarge the hole or determ the wires from the plug? 

[Rich Ackermann 174]

7 hours ago, Kris said:

Question for you other guys that have done the vintage air swap. If your using the factory under dash harness did you swap the 14A heater fuse to the 30A ac fuse in the fuse block? The fuse box indicates both for the same hole but would be different amperage depending on heater only or AC equipped. Also how did you get the wires through the firewall to the AC box? The 3/8 hole that comes on the plate is to small for the connector to fit through. Did you enlarge the hole or determ the wires from the plug? 

You should use the same Amp fuse size as the one in the harness provided. Mine came with a 30A inline breaker. The original yellow wire is 12 or 14 guage so it can handle the load. I did not use the original wires and 14A/30A fuse slot. I had re-purposed the fuse slot and the original yellow heater power wire for my aftermarket power windows which required 30A. I ran the AC wires provided thru the hole provided in the block out plate to the battery. They were plenty long enough and have no terminators, so no issue passing them thru. I did relocate the compressor relay they wired for under the dash to the engine compartment next to my other headlight relays.

Make sure you can access the calibration wire under the dash. Its short and you need to be able to ground it to calibrate the controls.

 

[SHELBY69 61]

I had one installed in my 69 Shelby & 1960 Eldorado & it works well. A great Caddy mechanic told me to install an alum radiator so it blows cooler. I’m in MIA so it’s hot as hell here too April - Nov

[Kris 90]

Thanks. My vintage air harness came with the terminals preinstalled so there’s no way they will fit. The plastic connector is larger than the hole provided. I can unpin them but is a pain. The whole kit has been a pain. It must have been built on a Friday at quitting time because none of the brackets fit properly and had to be adjusted. Their quality control is extremely poor. 

[Kris 90]

Ok Got it figured out. My directions are incomplete and the relays are suppose to stay inside the car. Only the circuit breaker goes through the wall and that wire can be disconnected so it can fit through. 

[Rich Ackermann 174]

3 hours ago, Kris said:

Ok Got it figured out. My directions are incomplete and the relays are suppose to stay inside the car. Only the circuit breaker goes through the wall and that wire can be disconnected so it can fit through. 

Yep. That was how my kit was. Sorry I guess I was not clear enough in my earlier post.  I did relocate the compressor relay they wired for under the dash to the engine compartment. I wanted it next to my other headlight relays. Make sure you can access the calibration wire under the dash. Its short and you need to be able to ground it to calibrate the controls.

[Kris 90]

That’s what I was wanting to do was put the relays in the engine bay but with the connectors they won’t fit and I’m not going to spend time pulling the wires out of the connector. I’ll just mount them under the dash where I can still reach them.