FMX gearbox rebuild

[Spider69 16]

In addition to the gearbox rebuild the initial goal was to seal some leaks around intake manifold and replace the damper.

After some hours of work we saw that we were close to be able to get the engine out.

We decided to remove the engine in order to work more easely and to cleanup and repeint the engine.

 

This will be the next step.

 

With engine

 

W/o engine

 

 

 

[RPM 1,190]

Here's a tip to get the intake lined up correctly. At the 4 corner bolts make or buy studs which are a couple of inches long. Hand screw them in, put the gaskets in place then apply a bead of Permatex The Right Stuff gasket. They have several different types from which to choose. Install the intake bolts and snug them up. Remove the studs and install the remaining 4 bolts and torque them in the proper sequence. Works like a charm and makes misalignment a thing of the past.

 

 

[LindenBruce 27]

In addition to the gearbox rebuild the initial goal was to seal some leaks around intake manifold and replace the damper.

After some hours of work we saw that we were close to be able to get the engine out.

We decided to remove the engine in order to work more easely and to cleanup and repeint the engine.

 

This will be the next step.

 

With engine

WP_20160609_001.jpg

 

W/o engine

WP_20160609_004.jpg

And so "IT" begins.  First the transmission.  Heck, it's only a couple more bolts so lets pull the engine.  Heck, while we have the covers off the engine, lets put in a cam.  Wait, the heck with that, lets pull the heads and do a port match and pocket job.  Okay, well, just a few more bolts and lets pull the rotating assembly, get the block bored, new piston and rings and a balance job. 

 

While that's being done, lets clean and detail the engine compartment.  But wait, lets pull the fenders so we don't have to tape and paint around them.  Darn it, while we are here, lets do the Shelby mod.  No, wait, lets do a full front suspension Fox Mustang upgrade with rack and pinion steering.

 

LMAO!!!  I'm just kidding of course.  Or AM I???????  B.  LOL

[mwye0627 44]

I rebuilt the FMX in my original Mustang back in 1979, (I bought the car in 1973)

It is really easy to rebuild, and you can get a book or video to show all the steps.

Like others have said, use high quality plates, steels and band.

I used the Trans-Go shift kit in mine back then, and it includes various parts

and instructions for different levels of shift firmness...

I did use the FMX in my drag race car with about 475 HP and it worked fine!!!

[Wycked69 20]

And so "IT" begins.  First the transmission.  Heck, it's only a couple more bolts so lets pull the engine.  Heck, while we have the covers off the engine, lets put in a cam.  Wait, the heck with that, lets pull the heads and do a port match and pocket job.  Okay, well, just a few more bolts and lets pull the rotating assembly, get the block bored, new piston and rings and a balance job. 

 

While that's being done, lets clean and detail the engine compartment.  But wait, lets pull the fenders so we don't have to tape and paint around them.  Darn it, while we are here, lets do the Shelby mod.  No, wait, lets do a full front suspension Fox Mustang upgrade with rack and pinion steering.

 

LMAO!!!  I'm just kidding of course.  Or AM I???????  B.  LOL

 

There's a lot of truth to this and we have all been there at some point and time. It's easy to let yourself get distracted or alter the initial "plan". Rest assured, what ever time table you estimated to complete the job at hand will "always" take longer.  You will ether encounter something that also truly needs fixed or you start thinking "well....... since we already have it out, might as well replace............" .

It will get you every time if you allow it. Remember, its a hobby (or illness in my case)

[Max Power 74]

Well, given my garage working set up, I find it easier to pull the tranny by pulling the whole thing anyway. Rather come out the top with it than try to handle an FMX on my back. It's really pretty easy.

[Spider69 16]

Nice tips.

 

RPM, good idea I will follow your instructions, thanks. I don't know if I can find Permatex in France, but we will certainly find Something similar.

 

LindenBruce, We know when it starts but never when it will end, that's every time the story when you decide to go a little bit deep in a rebuild phase. But I'm really happy, I learn a lot about my car, and the weather is so bad that I don't miss anything.

 

Mwye, I thought about a shift kit but decided not to install one. I got some return of experience from forum members warning me about the change of behavior of the car. You know once installed you will not remove it and have to live with. Risk was too big for me. Do you have the shift kit on your drag race car only or on your normal car as well. What is really the benefit or what are the changes?

 

It becomes my illness too, but I love it.

 

 

[Rsmach1 71]

Put one on every car I've owned that didn't have an electronically controlled trans (street or street/strip car). Benefits are less slippage wich translates into less wear of the frictions, less heat overall, and longer trans life. The only downside is some Don't care for the snappier shifts.

 

Edit; If you Don't like it, it can be removed with the trans in the car. Just tells you're builder to save the stock parts.

[Rsmach1 71]

What it comes down to is personal preference, performance oriented car, use the shift kit, weekend cruiser, maybe go without it. See if you can find someone who has one installed add go for a ride, judge for yourself.

[Spider69 16]

I'm really not decided  about the shift kit, can you tell me which one I should buy, knowing that I drive the car pretty cool but I like the feeling when I press the right pedal :-)

[Rsmach1 71]

Transgo, posted it on page 1 of this thread. https://m.summitracing.com/parts/trg-37-1

[Spider69 16]

Yes sorry, we already discussed this shift kit story.

I just ordered this kit on the summit website.

 

I cannot wait to try it.

Should be delivered mid of next week, so my car should be fully completed for the week after.

 

Hopefully the weather will be nice

[Rsmach1 71]

Nice, keeps us up to date. Won't be working on mine for a few days, over 100 degrees here lol

[Spider69 16]

Engine is ready for repeint,

 

 

but we are facing a small issue when remounting the new timing chain set.

On the camshaft sprocket we have to remount the fuel pump eccentric.

This eccentric is normally aligned on a cam dowel pin, but the dowel pin seems to short.

 

 

Does someone can help me?

 

[Rsmach1 71]

Do you have the original pieces you took out? Did you get a new dowel? What timing chain set did you get? New eccentric?

 

Edit if I'm not mistaken there are 2 different length dowels available, 1 for use with the eccentric and 1 without an eccentric (efi cars).

[Spider69 16]

we took nothing out, it seems like the former owner has modified something??

In case of a mechanical fuel pump, does the dowel goes though the timing chain sprocket to the eccentric or are there two dowels, one for sprocket and one for eccentric?

we don't have new dowels, the timing chain is https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/cca-2135/overview/

And no new eccentric, we thought we can reuse the old one and same for the dowel.

I checked the Summit website, but could not find the dowel, even not with a new eccentric.

What I don't understand is how this dowel can stay in place when the engine is running?

I have repair manual and Haynes but this is not really nice explained.

 

 

 

[barnett468 418]

why is your timing chain loose?

[Rsmach1 71]

There is only 1 dowel, and it is retained by the cam bolt washer (the washer should cover 1/2 of the dowel).  There is another 2 pc type eccentric that mounts differently but you should have the 1 pc. Can you take a close up picture of it and post it.

[Rsmach1 71]

Also when installing the timing set you got be sure to check the clearance to the cam thrust plate, that should be outlined in the instructions.

[Spider69 16]

Hi Barnett,

Chain was not tight enough.

 

Rsmach1

I understand. The thing is that the dowel seems blocked we cannot remove the old one when heating the dowel.

Really strange. I will try to get a picture.

[Spider69 16]

Here is pic

 

Dowel seems to short for the eccentric.

And the old sprocket has certainly be modified by the former owner.

I think we will have to do the same.😒

[Rsmach1 71]

As long as the eccentric catches about 3/4 through you should be ok. Before you continue trying to remove the dowel install the new cam sprocket by itself, let's sea how far it sticks out past the sprocket.

[Rsmach1 71]

Just for reference the dowel length you want is 1.375.

To correct myself the change in length was actually in 1973.

[Rsmach1 71]

Also heating the dowel itself will expand it and make it harder to remove. I you do end up having to remove it, get a can of aerisol computer duster, hold it upside-down and with the straw spray just the dowel with the liquid for a few seconds (don't get it on your skin). This will fast freeze the dowel, quickly using vice grips twist and pull, and it should come out.

 

Edit; If that doesn't work try heating up the cam a LITTLE on each side of the dowel and repeat the above.

[Spider69 16]

Thx for the advice. With the new cam sprocket the eccentric is to far from the dowel. We tried everything to remove this bloody dowel 😈
The sprocket is now in the hand of a specialist and he will rework the sprocket in order to made it a little bit thinner. This is the only solution we see.