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Vicfreg

1970 Convertible Restoration

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13 hours ago, Vicfreg said:

Nice weather in North Carolina today, so did some painting

 

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Hi Vic,

I believe your base is fiberglass. You may want to consider using the same stud I used on my base. They have a large thin flat head so they will cover a large surface for the glue to adhere to and thin enough that they don't cause any interference inside the base. Also I used a press on retainer clip on the outside. Although I used the rect angular press on clip as you can see in the picture, I prefer the round one below as the don't scratch the paint like the rectangular ones do. I used two brackets from my manifold to the base... one straight back at the rear of the base and one about 90 degrees on the drivers side. It maybe over kill, but I was worried about the weight of the shaker stack with all the shaking it does resting just on the Sniper and held down by just the center stud through the lid. The brackets will provide more stability and take the stress off the sniper. The bolt and retainers are from Hillman and I bought them from Amazon or Lowes.

Question: Where did you buy your fiberglass base from? I like to contact them to see if I can buy just the metal offset ring.

Thanks

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Hi Rich, yes I had already found those "elevator bolts" in Lowes and have epoxied them on.  I like the retainer idea though.  I also used these for the 1/4 -20 bolts that attach the mid plate to the base.  

Shaker assembly came from a guy who frequents the Ford Carlisle show every year.   FordRamAir.com

Got my front bracket done and fitted up, now making a rear bracket.

 

Front Shaker Bracket.jpg

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You all probably notice the stud sticking out of the side of the shaker base.  I have cut that off.  2 reasons.  First, I had to rotate my base around 2" clockwise.  This caused an offset with the bolts/studs that came with the base.   Second, I am using the "Canted" valve covers, and I can't easily attach a bracket to the top middle valve cover bolt to access that stud in the base.

No worries, the base is going to be re-painted.   Black, of course....

 

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Got my rear bracket made and fitted up.  What a huge difference in how sturdy it is now!  I took me maybe 2 hours to make both brackets out of aluminum stock I got from Ace Hardware.

Now to get my hood and see how the whole thing fits...or not....

 

 

rear shaker bracket.jpg

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Catching up on some mini projects while I’m home for the holidays. I have my LED tail light assembly‘s together, and did some quick checks of my tail light wiring harness, and connections, to make sure everything was working OK.

everything seems to be working well, I just need to get an LED flasher, to check out my sequential tail lights.

You will probably notice my powder coated tail light housings, that’s keeping with my all black trim theme. Should be pretty cool.

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On 12/29/2021 at 6:03 PM, Vicfreg said:

Catching up on some mini projects while I’m home for the holidays. I have my LED tail light assembly‘s together, and did some quick checks of my tail light wiring harness, and connections, to make sure everything was working OK.

everything seems to be working well, I just need to get an LED flasher, to check out my sequential tail lights.

You will probably notice my powder coated tail light housings, that’s keeping with my all black trim theme. Should be pretty cool.

33A39B99-FD5F-45FC-A662-2F1A2D73A14A.jpeg

 

 

Hi Vic,  Happy New Year!  Where did you get you sequence conversion kit from ? Second question... Do you like the fiberglass Ram Air Base you have? Is made well enough to hold up under the stress from heat and the weight of the ram air stack? I did not go that route, thinking that the fiberglass version may not be strong enough to support the full stack and it could warp with the heat of the engine over time.

 

Regards,

Rich

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Hey Rich, Happy New Year also!!

I got the tail light kit from a company called the "Mustang Project".   I am happy with it, easy install, also have it on my '68 coupe. I tested it this past weekend, and they work and look great.  You will need a LED flasher relay for your emergency flashers, and they supply the turn signal one that is used to interface with their taillights. It is plug and play.

Mustang Project - Discount Mustang Restoration Parts LED Tail Lights 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 Dodge Mustang Camaro Parts

I am happy so far with my fiberglass base.  I have not been driving the car, though, waiting on the painters.  I added 2 braces/brackets that are attached to the intake manifold, so it seems pretty sturdy, but time will tell.   When I was at Carlisle last year, I was on a mission to talk to owners about their shaker setups, and many were running the fiberglass and were happy with it.

Was going to ask you about any lessons learned/suggestions on installing the honeycomb tail light panel.  I have a template, but always want to measure twice and drill once..   My car did not come from the factory with the panel...

 

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3 hours ago, Vicfreg said:

Hey Rich, Happy New Year also!!

I got the tail light kit from a company called the "Mustang Project".   I am happy with it, easy install, also have it on my '68 coupe. I tested it this past weekend, and they work and look great.  You will need a LED flasher relay for your emergency flashers, and they supply the turn signal one that is used to interface with their taillights. It is plug and play.

Mustang Project - Discount Mustang Restoration Parts LED Tail Lights 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 Dodge Mustang Camaro Parts

I am happy so far with my fiberglass base.  I have not been driving the car, though, waiting on the painters.  I added 2 braces/brackets that are attached to the intake manifold, so it seems pretty sturdy, but time will tell.   When I was at Carlisle last year, I was on a mission to talk to owners about their shaker setups, and many were running the fiberglass and were happy with it.

Was going to ask you about any lessons learned/suggestions on installing the honeycomb tail light panel.  I have a template, but always want to measure twice and drill once..   My car did not come from the factory with the panel...

 

Vic, Thanks. I'll contact Mustang Project. I have been using Red LED rear taillight bulbs, I have been considering going to a sequential setup to match my three sequential LED Arrows I have installed in my side view mirrors. Hopefully I can make them flash together synchronously.

What I did was as follows... Have your taillights, trunk lock, and Gas tank filler tube installed before you try aligning the trim and honey comb panel. First line up the panel around the gas tube flange and lock while centering it vertically between the taillights and attach it there with tape. Then with the attachment hardware (i call them butterfly studs) removed), line up the top and bottom trim pieces with the top and bottom edges of the taillights and confirm they are in contact with the top and bottom edges of the panel and can hold it in place. Now with a marker or tape mark the top edge of the top trim and the bottom edge of the bottom trim. This is also a good time on brightly painted cars to mark off the area between the taillights and the panel, and around the gas filler tube flange and the lock, where the body color show thru between them. For you Vic this is very important step to do with your blacked out taillight bezels. Now remove all, including the taillights, but leave the honey comb panel in place. With the horizontal outer trim marks with marker or tape you made before and the partial screw hole notches on the honey comb panel to position your drill bit, you made you can now drill the top and bottom trim mounting holes. Finally, tape off and paint with a flat or matte black paint those areas you identified where the body color shows up between the panel and the taillight bezels and around the the lock and gas tube flange. Remove the tape when dry and reinstall all of it. You can see the difference it makes with those area blacked out, as Ford did this in the factory as well.

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The flasher is specific to the taillights.  I tried to use a generic led flasher, but it did not work in a sequential manner.  So, my guess is you need to contact the original manufacturer and get a new flasher

 

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Update on the 'Vert project.   Had the painters come by and take a look at the car, so it looks like I am finally going to get the car painted.   

So, I am working off a list of some mini projects that I can do now that will save me from doing later.

Got out my dash panel and mounted my Dakota Digital/VHX stuff.  Fit nicely.  Plugged in the ethernet wire and started the car, and the dash went live. Yay!

I don't have the dash insert installed.  It is going to be painted, not woodgrain.

 

 

 

 

VHX Dash Back.jpg

vhx dash rear.jpg

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Hey Mike, Happy New Year.   We have about 2-3 inches of snow/sleet on the ground.   But it's 29 degrees and we have lots of wind, so the real feel temperature is around 19 degrees.

Good day to spend in the garage working on the car. I am actually pretty much out of stuff to do until I get the car to the painters.   Looking forward to that. 

Assume you are in Virginia now?   Hope the new house is working out.

Carlisle Ford weekend is first week of June again.  I was hoping to have the car ready by then, not sure I will make it.....

 

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Did some final checks to make sure I don't need to drill any more holes in the body before the car goes to paint.  I had to slightly open up the holes for the door handles with a hand file to get that damn sideways screw to clear and attach properly.

 

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