Vicfreg 771 Report post Posted January 28, 2018 Was asked to post a picture of my original fuse box, so here it is Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vicfreg 771 Report post Posted January 28, 2018 Working in my trunk now, finishing up rear ground bus wiring. 1 willyrnd reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Shep69 149 Report post Posted January 30, 2018 Just come across this build thread of yours Vic. You don't do anything by halves do you. Bloody awesome . Mark Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vicfreg 771 Report post Posted January 30, 2018 Hey Mark. Thanks. Congrats on getting your stripes on.... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vicfreg 771 Report post Posted January 30, 2018 I am posting this wiring diagram tidbit based on a discussion on grounding I was having... For my AAW wiring install, I did not ground my front lighting yet. On page 13 of the thread, I installed some "intermediate" connectors for the front lighting that I will use to finish my headlights, parking/directional, and front led (fog lamp feed) later after the car is painted. For these cars, the original wiring diagrams show the ground points, and generally (not always) the ground wires are a number "57". You can see that on the attached pictures, where there is a common ground point for the front lights, and a single ground for things like washer pump. The AAW kit doesn't come with this common ground, so Mike65 and I were exchanging on the idea of installing a front grounding block, similar to what I did in my trunk. Actually a good idea, and allows you to run a main ground wire to a solid ground point somewhere, rather than drilling holes in your sheetmetal and hoping for the best. 1 fvike reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vicfreg 771 Report post Posted February 3, 2018 Wrapping up my wiring in preparation for dropping the engine in. Installed my alternator main feed through the firewall, and the wiring to my Vintage Air control valve. Finished my under dash power distribution center, and my trunk mounted grounding block wiring. Last thing to do is get under the car and run the wiring for my VHX speed sensor and my reverse lights. Then a new mini-project, which is to run my power steering lines through the drivers side fenderwell. Got my Earl's power steering hose and a pile of 6 AN fittings from Summit today, so will start that next week. The area by the Borgeson steering box is so tight, I need to run the hoses now, or else I won't be able to do it with the engine in... First pic is engine compartment, starting to get the wires out of the way for the engine install. Second pic is the power block under my passenger side dash. Really big red wire is my starter wire coming from the trunk. It runs through a high amperage bulkhead connector at the top of the footwell. Next largest red wire at the bottom most terminal (4th) on the right is my main power feed to/from the trunk mounted battery. The wire on the left side of the bottom most terminal is my main feed from the alternator coming in through the firewall. It goes through a 200 amp MIDI fuse. Same size wire on the 3rd terminal from the top is my power feed to the front of the car, which feeds another terminal block mounted on the radiator support. Brownish wire on the 1st terminal (top) on the right is the fusible link connector that feeds the AAW fuse block. 3rd pics is my alternator wire (#6) going through the firewall, and my Vintage Air heater control valve, where I routed that wire through the Vintage Air block off plate, in a hole that was already there. 4th pic is the grounding wires in my trunk. The big ass black wire is a military surplus negative battery cable that is grounded to the a steel bracket that is located in the trunk, about in the middle of the taillight hole, right above the bumper bracket holes. This spot is "heavy metal", not sheet metal, so I carefully drilled and tapped it, and installed the cable there. This goes to the top post of my Optima battery. The large black wire at the bottom of the picture, attached to the lowest terminal point, goes to the front post of my Optima battery. The 4 small wires are individual ground wires that run to the front (under dash) ground terminal block, my PWM electronics, and the Vintage Air blower motor and electronics. The other large black wire at the top of the terminal block is the main ground wire for my PWM Fan controller, which is located in the trunk. 1 SWPruett reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jerrad 0 Report post Posted February 6, 2018 Have you had a chance to test fit the radiator/fans? I have a similar motor setup and I'm paranoid about my radiator and fan choice. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vicfreg 771 Report post Posted February 6, 2018 Hey Jerrad. I was very paranoid as well. That's why I went with the DeWitt aluminum direct fit radiator, and the Maradyne fans. I also have a serpentine belt setup, and all my measuring and inquiries on this site tell me that I will have maybe an inch to 2 inches clearance between the water pump pulley and the fans. That is also why I used 2 fans, as there is a gap between them. I decided this week to go with adjustable motor mounts, not only for the fan clearance, but also to allow adjustment for my shaker hood setup, as I am using a high rise manifold and fuel injection, and may need to run a spacer plate. Mike on this site (Latoracing) makes these, and is finishing up a set of them for me right now. I plan to install my engine in the next 30 days, so I will let you know how it works out. If you like the motor mount set up, I think Mike has a few sets left, you can contact him. His quality is top flight. Hope this helps. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jerrad 0 Report post Posted February 7, 2018 That's very helpful. Do you mind sharing the part numbers for your fans? Didn't see anything on their site regarding nascar fans. Will you have a shroud? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vicfreg 771 Report post Posted February 7, 2018 I live near Mooresville, NC, which is where many of the race teams and suppliers to NASCAR are located. Maradyne supplies some of the teams with fans. They have integral shrouds. I will take a picture tomorrow.. they are currently installed on my engine test stand. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jerrad 0 Report post Posted February 7, 2018 That would be great. Thanks. I'd also love to see how they're attached to the radiator if it wouldn't be too much trouble. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vicfreg 771 Report post Posted February 7, 2018 Right now it is mounted on the front with wire ties, as it is on my engine stand. There are 4 mounting tabs. I will probably use some 1”x1” aluminum angle to make mounting brackets i will post some detailed pics. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
69Stanger408 82 Report post Posted February 7, 2018 On 10/20/2017 at 4:31 PM, Vicfreg said: Working on my battery tray. Will use Optima Red Top. Top red block is main power distribution block. Black item below that is 175 amp Maxi Fuse, which is my main power feed to the front of the car. Running a #4 wire up front to firewall mounted power point which is my main power feed for the car. Clear item below that is Rockford Fosgate 60 amp fuse which will run to my power amp, uses really nice, multi-strand #6 wire that comes with the R-F kit. Main power disconnect will go to positive battery terminal, and feeds the red block on top, as well as the power side of the starter solenoid, which will be mounted on the back, out of site. Did you fab this set up? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vicfreg 771 Report post Posted February 7, 2018 I got the battery tray here: https://www.ebay.com/itm/ARTEC-Group-34-Optima-Battery-REAR-Mount-Universal-OP3407-Raw-/131775521827?hash=item1eae6ee423 These are really heavy duty, a lot of off road guys use them. Mine came uncoated, so I did the prime and paint thing. I purchased the "side mount" battery tray so I could bolt my mounting plate behind it, and still bolt the whole thing down when I was done. The back plate is made out of 1/2" birch plywood, sandwiched between 2 thin (maybe 12 gauge) sheet metal plates that I got from Tractor Supply. I cut the wood to match the plates and primed it. Then, located my main power switch, and other stuff and bolted it all down, and fabricated the cables. Took it all apart, finish coated it in VHT black epoxy, and put it back together. 1 69Stanger408 reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vicfreg 771 Report post Posted February 7, 2018 Jerrad, here are some pics of what my fans look like mounted to my test stand. I will likely use some aluminum angle to mount the fans to for the final install in the car, versus wire ties... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jerrad 0 Report post Posted February 8, 2018 Thanks so much for sharing the pics and info. I hate to be a broken record but I've found a few versions of that fan on their site. A 130w, 160w, and 225w version. Do have have any info on which model you may have? Wondering how if the 225w are needed. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vicfreg 771 Report post Posted February 8, 2018 No problem. I will check tomorrow Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vicfreg 771 Report post Posted February 9, 2018 I have the low profile 12” fabs, 225 watt. I need every cfm they can make. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jerrad 0 Report post Posted February 9, 2018 Thanks so much, I appreciate the info Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vicfreg 771 Report post Posted February 9, 2018 Moving from wiring to plumbing. Started working on making my power steering hoses to run through the fender well. Using earls high pressure fittings and hose for the high-pressure side, and standard General Motors low pressure hose and push on AN fittings for the low pressure side. Using AN bulkhead fittings to run through the fender well This also impacted my decision on my brake booster. I decided to go with a smaller double diaphragm break booster that is used on manual transmission cars. This is so my power steering hoses will not interfere with the master cylinder or brake booster. I am mounting my proportioning valve underneath the master cylinder to avoid mounting it on the fender well as that’s where my power steering hoses are going through. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Shep69 149 Report post Posted February 10, 2018 Looking good Vic. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vicfreg 771 Report post Posted February 10, 2018 Kept moving on my power steering hoses Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bryonbush 85 Report post Posted February 11, 2018 I’m going to wish you luck now with borgeson. With the saganaw pumps power it’s going to show every weak spot on your hose set up. I have had two sets of custom hoses made by hose shops and after this, if they go again I’m going manual rack. Hopefully yours turn out great but that’s one of life’s decisions I regret making as it’s been a non stop hassle. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vicfreg 771 Report post Posted February 11, 2018 Hey Byron. Where have you had leaks? I've been running a Saginaw/Borgeson set up on my 1968 for a few years with no issues. I am using the Borgeson supplied hoses on my '68, but they are just long enough, and run too close to my headers, so I have them wrapped in DEI insulation. After the fact, Borgeson recommended using the 6-cylinder hoses, which are longer, as the 6 cylinder cars have the power steering pump in a different location. For my '70, I decided to go in the fendewells and do it myself, after recommendations from some local friends. The Earls hose approach does not require any special tools, and for now, appears to be a good solution. As you know, the proof is when I fire the engine up and whether I have to scramble to tighten fittings..... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
69Stanger408 82 Report post Posted February 11, 2018 Just chiming in regarding the leaks...I have a ford rack from Heidts (Mustang II setup) that is being supplied via a Saginaw pump. When I purchased my pulley system , I was instructed to purchase a pressure valve that reduces line pressure from 1,200 to 800 PSI, an issue that exist with the Ford racks and GM pumps, the ford racks are not happy with the higher pressure, thus reducing the life of the components and causing leaks. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
