Vicfreg 771 Report post Posted January 7, 2018 Started running my engine compartment wires, which will only be the engine mounted items. Today, broke open the FiTech box, and wired out what they call the "6 Connector harness", which is actually 6 wires with 2 separate connectors. One for the power wires, and one for the signal wires. In my case, I won't be using 2 of the signal wires, so I will cap them off. The FiTech stuff is very high quality. I need to figure out where to run these connectors so they won't be easily seen. Thought right now is to put them at the back of the intake manifold. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vicfreg 771 Report post Posted January 7, 2018 Oh, forgot the other picture. My high tech wiring harness clamp is shown here (old blue vise). I am running the large connector (orange and red power feeds) wires with my coil wires. I will run the signal, or trigger wires separately from the coil wires, to avoid any potential noise issues. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MAC390 327 Report post Posted January 8, 2018 Nice fi set up you have, how do they go on big blocks.? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike65 475 Report post Posted January 8, 2018 Vic, If you do not mind I have a few questions, 1) Why did you choose the FiTech Go EFI instead of the Go Street model?. 2) Why did you choose the Pertronix Digital HP ignition box instead of one of the others?, & 3) What dist are you going to use?. I am thinking of using the Pertronix Flame-Thrower D7134600. What do you think? 4) Why did you choose the FiTech EFI over the Holley Sniper?. BTW I have the same mustang sign in my garage. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pnx-d7134600/overview/make/ford Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vicfreg 771 Report post Posted January 8, 2018 Mac - they have EFI setups good up to I think 800HP. Their website is pretty helpful Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vicfreg 771 Report post Posted January 8, 2018 Hey Mike. 1. I chose the GoEFI because my engine will make mid-400 horsepower, and FiTech indicated that the GoStreet was only good up to about 400Hp. 2. This is a really good question that has a little story to it, which will also answer question #3. I originally did not envision using Fuel Injection, so I picked my distributor based on the footprint/size, and wanting to have a plug and play MSD unit. So I chose the Pertronix III. It is small, near stock size, and has all of the MSD stuff internal to it. I installed it, and ran it on the engine stand, and it worked great. This summer, I noticed a few FiTech systems installed in muscle cars and street rods at some of the Charlotte area auto shows, and I became interested in that. When I researched the FiTech system, I noticed it needs a clean RPM reference (tach signal) as an input. I called Pertronix, and after having these suppliers talk to each other, I was told there way I could use the PIII distributor with the FiTech system. The reason is that the PIII is a MSD distributor, and if you try to use the coil (-) to drive the EFI computer, the signal is too noisy. For my engine stand test, with an old Sun Supertach, the coil negative worked just fine. Anyway, I spent some time with Pertronix on the phone, and they suggested that I could use their new digital ignition box, as that has a specific clean, square wave output that is designed to be used with EFI systems and modern tachometers. So, that is what I did. MSD also has this feature with their 6AL box, and actually with their new plug and play distributor. But, I had already purchased and installed the PIII unit. If you have not made a choice yet, then you can use a stock distributor with Pertronix 1 or 2 electronics, and their digital ignition box. That would be the easiest and least expensive option. You need to use their coil also. 4. The deciding factor on the GoEFI versus the other available EFI systems at the same price point is the GoEFI Fuel Command Center. I did not want to install an in-tank or external fuel pump in my car. Primarily due to the fact that I was very far along with my project when I decided to go with Fuel Injection. I checked out several installations at the local car shows of the GoEFI set up, and all the users had good reviews. There are a lot of issues noted on line, and I am aware of them, but going forward with the GoEFI install. I am sure the Holley and MSD systems are very high quality and work fine as well. Hope that helps. I will be starting to post my details on the GoEFI install in the next weeks. Mike, you can call me if you want to chat about it. I spent a lot of time going down this road over the past few months. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vicfreg 771 Report post Posted January 9, 2018 I continued running my EFI and ignition wires. I ran the coil wires and the FiTech power and signal harnesses. You will note that I installed the smaller of the 2 FiTech plugs/harnesses in a separate firewall hole. This is because I want to separate the trigger and signal wires from the coil wires, as on a MSD type ignition, the coil wires can be very "noisy". In my case, the signal wire is the tachometer reference from the Pertronix box to the FiTech system, and the Pertronix III distributor negative. Tomorrow I will route my distributor wires, so the distributor negative will be run into the small hole with the FiTech signal wires. I will then head under the dash to finish hooking up my ignition connectors which will complete my EFI and Ignition box in-car wiring. One thing worth mentioning, is that a lot of wiring is included with the AAW kit. But, if you have aftermarket accessories, the wiring is not. I have used a lot of 14 gauge wire and connectors to hook up my accessories, and also to accommodate by goal of keeping all the wires in the fenderwells. An example of this is the above mentioned tachometer/trigger wire. For a stock restoration, AAW supplies wire #121 that is part of the engine wiring feed. They also route this wire in the main harness to AAW dash connector "G". So, just hook up the engine side of the wire to your coil negative, and follow the AAW instructions to hook up the wire from connector G to your stock or aftermarket tachometer, and you're done. In my case, I need to get a tachometer signal from the Pertronix III ignition box, to my FiTech System, and my VHX dash. So, I ran the wire from AAW connector G to my VHX box tachometer input. On the other end of the harness, I ran the 121 wire to a new connector under the dash, then ran 2 new wires to the FiTech System and the PIII box. I tried to consolidate shared inputs like the coil, distributor, etc in a couple new ignition connectors to minimize the wiring mess. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vicfreg 771 Report post Posted January 9, 2018 Oops, 1st pic shows the small connector temporarily installed in my accelerator cable firewall hole. 2nd pic shows where it wound up. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vicfreg 771 Report post Posted January 10, 2018 Kept moving on running my engine wiring, which I finished today. Ran the distributor wires through the firewall. Also ran my brake light switch wires and brake warning lamp wires into the engine compartment. The AAW wiring includes a correct plug for the pedal mounted brake light switch, and also for the brake warning light. In my case, I will be using a modern master cylinder/brake line block which will include a pressure actuated brake light sensor. So I cut the plug off of wires 40A and 17B, installed a new connector, and ran new wires (40A1 and 17B1) into the engine compartment, along with wire 33, which is the brake warning light. Also got my 3/4" OD soft clamps, and finished my fenderwell wiring on the driver side, and clamped down my first conduit on the passenger side. I am waiting on some 1" heat shrink to finish the second conduit on the passenger side. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vicfreg 771 Report post Posted January 10, 2018 Oh, also ran my alternator feed through the firewall. It shares a small hole in the firewall (passenger side) with the Vintage Air heater control valve harness. The alternator wire runs through the firewall to my underdash power distribution block. It has a 200 amp midi fuse protecting the 140 amp alternator. The AAW kit comes with a #8 wire that includes a fusible link, but not large enough to handle the 140 amp I am using. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike65 475 Report post Posted January 10, 2018 Looking good, nice work on the wiring. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vicfreg 771 Report post Posted January 10, 2018 Thanks. Hey, what did you do with your wiper motor plug/feed? Mine seems too short, headed to a cut and splice solution... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike65 475 Report post Posted January 11, 2018 2 hours ago, Vicfreg said: Thanks. Hey, what did you do with your wiper motor plug/feed? Mine seems too short, headed to a cut and splice solution... I did not get to it yet, I just have the plug laying in the hole in the front of the cowl where the wiper motor wires go in. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vicfreg 771 Report post Posted January 11, 2018 I had to cut mine and splice it, which I hate to do. Somehow, when I tape wrapped the harness, I got it out of place. Plus the plug is so big...I should have routed that wire first. More lessons learned for AAW when I am done.... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vicfreg 771 Report post Posted January 11, 2018 Got my passenger side fenderwell wiring finally done, with the addition of the 2nd flex conduit, which is use for my main front power feed and some spare wires. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted January 11, 2018 Your 70 has come a long way since I checked it out. You've done really nice work there VF. She'll be a beauty. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vicfreg 771 Report post Posted January 12, 2018 Hey Bob, I remember that car...! I guess I didn't realize you were out at Mike's shop. I don't live far from him. If you ever get out this way again, let me know. I guess you live in Bakersfield...long way from North Carolina. Speaking of Bakersfield, was watching AXS Dish TV Channel the other night, and they had a Merle Haggard spot and some footage from Trout's Bar. I hear it is for sale, or something. If so, too bad. The heart of the "Bakersfield Sound" I suppose.... Or maybe that is in OilTown, or something.... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vicfreg 771 Report post Posted January 12, 2018 Finally got my drivers side fenderwell wiring done. This mini-project within a project took way longer than expected, but should really help the look inside the engine compartment. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted January 13, 2018 28 minutes ago, Vicfreg said: Hey Bob, I remember that car...! I guess I didn't realize you were out at Mike's shop. I don't live far from him. If you ever get out this way again, let me know. I guess you live in Bakersfield...long way from North Carolina. Speaking of Bakersfield, was watching AXS Dish TV Channel the other night, and they had a Merle Haggard spot and some footage from Trout's Bar. I hear it is for sale, or something. If so, too bad. The heart of the "Bakersfield Sound" I suppose.... Or maybe that is in OilTown, or something.... WHAT, you didn't know I visited? It was in all the papers. Yep, I went to a wedding in Asheville in October of 2016, I believe. Figured I was that far, might as well visit Mike. Ya, Cali and NC are nearly cross country :) I didn't realize you were back there too. Next time. 'Ol Merle. They treated him like a saint in his later years, but was a hell raiser and not liked by many around here in his youth. I hadn't heard that Trout's had closed and been sold. It's in Oildale, or 'Oldale, or The Dale. Oildale is at the northern border of Bakersfield and who's favorite son is Kevin Harvick, now a resident of NC. Keep up the swell work Vic. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vicfreg 771 Report post Posted January 13, 2018 Yeah, Harvick is cool, especially now that his driving a Ford in the Cup series and a Mustang in the Xfinity or whatever the call the Busch series these days.... Thanks for the encouragement. The wiring has been really tedious, mostly because I am pretty anal about how it looks. But I am headed down the homestretch, pretty much on track to get my engine in the car in February, and no matter what, get the car to paint in March. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike65 475 Report post Posted January 13, 2018 Good luck Vic, I am right behind you. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vicfreg 771 Report post Posted January 15, 2018 Worked on my front radiator support wiring over the weekend. I decided to leave some intermediate connectors on the area of the radiator support that bolts up to the front fenders. This way, I can come back later and hook up the headlights, parking lights, and fog lights. I am not using the front marker lights, as my front fenders are "smooth" and have the side marker light holes welded up. I am also going to run a 3-bar led light in the headlight bucket, where the fake "vent" is. Should look pretty cool. That will be powered by the fog light feed. You may notice some extra wires hanging around, some are for the Vintage Air trinary safety switch, others are for the trans cooler fan and some sensors. I am headed to NPD tomorrow to pick up the front plastic clips that hold the radiator support wires in. My original ones are so brittle, they broke the minute I tried to put the wire harness in them. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vicfreg 771 Report post Posted January 20, 2018 Underdash wiring is finally done!. Will put steering column, brake pedal and accelerator pedal in next. I am going to leave dash out when the car goes to paint. Moving to under the car for my transmission speed sensor and backup light switch wiring, then to the trunk, then engine goes in! 2 mach1cj and fvike reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fvike 173 Report post Posted January 25, 2018 Hey, nice job with routing and protecting the wires. Is that the headlight relays upon the steering column support? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vicfreg 771 Report post Posted January 26, 2018 FVike. Yes, the AAW wiring kit comes with relays for the horn, headlights, fog lights, and in my case, the ignition switch, as my car is a 1970. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
