latoracing 256 Report post Posted October 22, 2019 As the exhaust is finally getting close to completion, I needed to address the leaf spring shackle bolt dilemma. The head of the bolt that is supplied with the urethane bushings is large, to say the least. I notched the outer portion of the tips in the hopes that they would clear, that didn't work. I ordered some new 1/2" x 4.5" flat head bolts to help with the situation. The upgraded shackle kit has 9/16" diameter bolts and sleeves for the bushings. Since I couldn't get 9/16" flat head bolt, I needed to change up some parts. I bored some new sleeves out of 3/4" round 303 stainless with the appropriate 1/2" inside diameter and trimmed them to length. I had some new shackle plates laser cut out of 1/4" 304 stainless, same dimensions as the kit parts, but sized for the new 1/2" lower bolt. I also countersunk 2ea of the plates to fit their new hardware. Getting them on the car took a little bit of work to pull out the newly installed bushings and sleeves, just to stick them back together again with the new lower sleeve and upgraded hardware. This gives approximately 3/8" clearance between the shackle and the tips. Ought to work, and they will not rust. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted October 23, 2019 Outstanding fix Mike. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vicfreg 771 Report post Posted October 24, 2019 Mike, nice job on finding those bolts also. Very trick..... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
latoracing 256 Report post Posted November 16, 2019 I haven't posted much of the progress lately due to the non-eventful nature of trimming and fitting the tips to the valance. This is the last fabrication portion of the long drawn out process, its almost done. Once the holes were trimmed to fit around the tips I removed the valance and started turning the flange. I didn't want to flatten out the shape of the valance with a large flange, and I really didn't want to machine a hammer form, so a little notch in a piece of round rod does the trick. Round and round... until the lip is almost 90 degrees. A little hammer and dolly work to planish out the small imperfections and it's ready to check on the car again. Back in place with the tips clamped back to the pipes, the fab work is finally done! I have to prep the tips for powder coating and there are a few brackets that also need some rust protection. Some bolts and nuts also need to be upgraded, since I was using what I had on hand. Next up... marker light delete or return fuel line... 3 RPM, Grabber70Mach and mikee reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ridge Runner 1,112 Report post Posted November 16, 2019 I am thinking ...some sort of milled tail panel since the 70 panel is flat !?!? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vicfreg 771 Report post Posted November 16, 2019 Mike...Nice Job!! Thinking fuel line is next, so we can get the car started with the fuel injection..... Ridge - interesting suggestion. I am planning for the rear panel to be black, along with the bumper. The car will likely be silver. I guess you could mill a very thin piece of aluminum and powdercoat it. Maybe a ball mill with horizontal lines... ? I like that look. Here is the back of my '68 My taillight bezels for the '70 are already powder coated black similar to a Boss 302. I am now thinking about it. Mike....any thoughts/ideas....? 2 Grabber70Mach and Ridge Runner reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ridge Runner 1,112 Report post Posted November 17, 2019 Yup ,that is it ! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ridge Runner 1,112 Report post Posted November 17, 2019 Maybe ball milled ,black and the ribs polished or brush finish? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
latoracing 256 Report post Posted November 18, 2019 When I was looking into doing some type of machined tail light bezels for my project I got to measuring the tail light panel. The panel has a fairly pronounced convex shape to it, definitely not flat, which would have been really nice. A totally flat panel would be all kinds of floppy without reinforcement. That being said, I love the 67/8 GT upgraded part and might have to go back and do some figuring on a 70 version. To 3D mill a part that large would require a fairly sizable chunk of aluminum, or rolling a sheet to the contour then machining it. Having the filler panel fit up to the stock tail light bezels might save some headache and be similar to the MACH 1 part. If you had a huge 3D printer, that would be interesting. I would think a regular 3/8" end mill would have a more pronounced rib due to the relative thin nature of this part. Might be fun to write a few lines of code... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vicfreg 771 Report post Posted November 20, 2019 Ridge, I talked to Mike.....the Mad Scientist is on it....we are experimenting with some ideas on the rear panel...... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ridge Runner 1,112 Report post Posted November 20, 2019 Do it ,do it ,do it ! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ridge Runner 1,112 Report post Posted November 20, 2019 I have the bright trim for that tail panel Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
latoracing 256 Report post Posted December 16, 2019 When you get to do tedious jobs, there isn't a lot to share that is exciting. With a couple of delays I'm finally able to get on with the return fuel line. I'm using a stock 3/8" stainless line for the return, which is going to look really good. I did some bend manipulation to the prebent tube and drilled a 3/4" hole in the back of the torque box for it to pass through. Both lines fit through the stock oval front hole, which took a little bit of time so both tubes are not bound tight. Spent a while looking through the inter web to find some appropriate clamps, which I didn't find. The closest clamp I found was 1/4" and 3/8", no dual 3/8" clamps sooo.... A little tooling and creativity with some stainless sheet and we have clamps. I have to cut and bubble flair the new tube for its attachment up front and get it all bolted down to stay. 4 Ridge Runner, steferg, RPM and 1 other reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mach1 Driver 560 Report post Posted December 19, 2019 nice, how about showing or describing the tooling, to give us mere mortals a hand. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
latoracing 256 Report post Posted December 24, 2019 The material is 16ga 304 Stainless Steel cut into a 3/4" wide strip. I haven't measured any of this yet, but I get 3 clamps out of a 8" strip. Trimming is required on each piece. The first bracket I did was by eye from a 90 degree bend and step breaking the radius' on either side. The tooling was done with my porta-band saw and some files.It makes it nice since the bends are basically one motion, minus the 90 degree flange for the bolt. Its tricky to get it started (more eyeballing required) and once the flange and radius are formed it gets turned around and clamped back in place and the second bend is accomplished. Comparing one of the "quick" tabs to the first attempt looks pretty close. For these clamps to actually clamp they are adjusted with two welded together 3/8" 1018 solid rods I fixed up when I thought about building these. I place it in the vice and hammer the ends of the clamp tight to the rods. The clamp has to be slid out the side for it to come off, which will make sure the fuel lines will stay in place without moving. A little drilling and some de-burring is all that's left. Repeat as necessary 1 Mach1 Driver reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike65 475 Report post Posted December 24, 2019 Awesome job, looks great. Thanks for sharing how you made them. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vicfreg 771 Report post Posted January 10, 2020 Mike got the rest of the fuel line install done. Now headed to his shop in the next week or so to start the car for the first time with an intact fuel system, completed exhaust, and EFI system installed. Should be fun, will post the first start video ….. 1 mikee reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mach1 Driver 560 Report post Posted January 10, 2020 Its a very clean and neat installation. Since there is no way to run the entire length in one hard line because of the geometries involved, I've often wondered how the lines are connected, thinking some sort of AN fitting was used. Your last pic shows two small connections of fuel hose and the first pic shows flares on the lines. So as long as you clamp the hose behind the flare (and its EFI fuel hose) I presume there won't be a fuel leak issue at EFI fuel pressures? Do some people use some sort of AN fitting for this or is this the more common practice- any idea? Since vibration will always be an issue, the hose sections should help in that regard as well. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
aslanefe 333 Report post Posted January 10, 2020 13 minutes ago, Mach1 Driver said: Its a very clean and neat installation. Since there is no way to run the entire length in one hard line because of the geometries involved, I've often wondered how the lines are connected, thinking some sort of AN fitting was used. Your last pic shows two small connections of fuel hose and the first pic shows flares on the lines. So as long as you clamp the hose behind the flare (and its EFI fuel hose) I presume there won't be a fuel leak issue at EFI fuel pressures? Do some people use some sort of AN fitting for this or is this the more common practice- any idea? Since vibration will always be an issue, the hose sections should help in that regard as well. When I converted to TBI, I replaced the original rubber hoses with EFI hoses and used EFI hose clamps; kept the factory metal lines except the one from the fuel pump to carb which was replaced with EFI hose. Have been using it for about 3 weeks and no leaks. I do not have a return line as my return is just after the fuel pump and inside the tank. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mach1 Driver 560 Report post Posted January 10, 2020 42 minutes ago, aslanefe said: When I converted to TBI, I replaced the original rubber hoses with EFI hoses and used EFI hose clamps; kept the factory metal lines except the one from the fuel pump to carb which was replaced with EFI hose. Have been using it for about 3 weeks and no leaks. I do not have a return line as my return is just after the fuel pump and inside the tank. I've been following your posts on VMF in "Holly's Alternative Option for an EFI Fuel System". So you are using Holly's 12-305 which looks like a nice system. Do you have the hard line flared where you attached the EFI fuel hose, or did you just use an EFI clamp? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
latoracing 256 Report post Posted January 10, 2020 Vic is using a mechanical fuel pump to get the fuel to the EFI canister (in the engine bay) that ups the fuel pressure. Up to the pot, the fuel pressure is 6ish psi. I cut a few of the ends off the supplied lines for routing purposes and re bubble flared the lines. If this was an in-tank pump, I would have used AN flared fittings for all hard lines and EFI safe AN flex lines. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
aslanefe 333 Report post Posted January 10, 2020 1 hour ago, Mach1 Driver said: I've been following your posts on VMF in "Holly's Alternative Option for an EFI Fuel System". So you are using Holly's 12-305 which looks like a nice system. Do you have the hard line flared where you attached the EFI fuel hose, or did you just use an EFI clamp? My original 3/8" hard fuel lines (2 pieces from the tank to the original mechanical fuel pump) already had the bubble flares at the ends. Put the clamps behind the flares like they were on the original hoses. Used EFI clamps on EFI hoses instead of the spring clamps that were original or the worm gear clamps. 1 Mach1 Driver reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mach1 Driver 560 Report post Posted January 10, 2020 52 minutes ago, latoracing said: Vic is using a mechanical fuel pump to get the fuel to the EFI canister (in the engine bay) that ups the fuel pressure. Up to the pot, the fuel pressure is 6ish psi. I cut a few of the ends off the supplied lines for routing purposes and re bubble flared the lines. If this was an in-tank pump, I would have used AN flared fittings for all hard lines and EFI safe AN flex lines. Ok, thanks, so there is an AN fitting to connect two lines Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
latoracing 256 Report post Posted January 10, 2020 Having both ends of the line flared to 37* you can connect them with... 1 Mach1 Driver reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vicfreg 771 Report post Posted January 10, 2020 The AN fittings do take up a lot of room, the hose clamps are much more compact. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
