cavboy78 28 Report post Posted April 11, 2018 vic, my wiring project has been delayed, but hope to get the battery to trunk then start the aaw harness in the next couple of weeks. If you could rewind for me here...did you run a ground wire from the trunk up to the engine block or just run a ground in the trunk and a seprate ground from block to frame? Didn't see it, but may have missed it. Build is coming along nicely. Your attention to detail and patience is what i will strive for! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vicfreg 771 Report post Posted April 12, 2018 Hey Cav. If you look back at the pictures I posted over the winter, you can see what I did. If you need more, let me know. To summarize: I grounded the battery locally in the trunk to a support bracket, using a tapped hole and a bolt. I ran a wire from that to a ground terminal block in the trunk. The stuff that is mounted in the trunk is grounded to there. I also had several items that needed to be grounded directly to the battery that were in the front of the car. So, I ran a ground cable from the rear ground block up to the front of the car, and installed another ground block there. This is used mostly for electronics, as I have a VHX dash computer, the Vintage Air computer, a digital ignition box, and EFI computer that all should have a solid, separate ground to the battery. In the engine compartment, I ground the "power" stuff locally. I am running my block ground from my starter mounting bolt, directly to the frame. Here is my ground block diagram Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vicfreg 771 Report post Posted April 12, 2018 Oops, that didn't work out too well! I love this software.... Ok, another try: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vicfreg 771 Report post Posted April 12, 2018 So, VHX is for my digital dash, VA are my Vintage Air Grounds, P2 is my Pertronix Digital Ignition Box Ground, PWM is for my Pulse Width Modulation Fan Controller, Pwr Amp is for my Rockford Fosgate 400 watt power amp. The line that runs from the trunk terminal point 4 to the dash terminal point 7 is my "back to front" ground wire. All my power and ground stuff is routed on the right side of the car, my low level and control stuff is on the left side of the car. Hope this helps... Vic Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cavboy78 28 Report post Posted April 13, 2018 Vic, thanks! I must have missed how you did the grounding with the busbars earlier in your thread. Great idea and had not thought about doing it that way, but makes sense now. appreciate it! Matt Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vicfreg 771 Report post Posted April 13, 2018 If I did not have all of these digital boxes, I would have done it differently, but if you don't have a good ground, you will find out the hard way. Let me know when you get started in earnest on the AAW harness. I have lots of lessons learned. If you know how to use Excel, I can send you my spreadsheet, and then wak you through my approach. But, I mapped every wire on the harness. 1 cavboy78 reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cavboy78 28 Report post Posted April 14, 2018 will do. thanks much vic! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vicfreg 771 Report post Posted April 18, 2018 Ok, dusted off my C-6 and my TCI converter. Getting ready to move transmission into car. So, getting close to my engine install....soon.. 2 SWPruett and Caseyrhe reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vicfreg 771 Report post Posted May 12, 2018 With the weather getting nice, moving slow on my '70 project. Got the trans under the car today. Once I get it secured, then will drop the front of the car down, and get the engine in. Memorial Day weekend is looking like the perfect time to do this. Have to get my '68 cleaned up to take to Carlisle. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ridge Runner 1,112 Report post Posted May 12, 2018 I dropped the 302 with a small case c6 into my old 70 all bolted together ,actually easy ,even slipped in headman long tube headers just before the moter seated ,i left the headers loose then tightened when the motor was bolted down . Saved a lot of time ,use a lot of blankets to stop scratches Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vicfreg 771 Report post Posted May 15, 2018 I have done that before also. This time, I want to drop my engine in with the serpentine system and headers bolted on, and will need to steer around the Borgeson steering box, and center link, and a fully detailed engine compartment, engine and trans. So, will do it the hard way..... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vicfreg 771 Report post Posted May 26, 2018 Car is on the ground on suspension and all 4 wheels for the first time in over 25 years...... Final detailing under the car is done, and the transmission is in. Going to install my door braces tomorrow, and prep my engine for install. I need to get my new oil pressure and water temperature sensors in, put the headers on, adjust my serpentine belt drive to include my power steering pump (it’s been disconnected on the test stand). Then I will pull the engine off the test stand, remove the old bellhousing, install the new adjustable motor mounts, and install my torque converter. So, Sunday, the engine goes in..... yahoo.... 1 SWPruett reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike65 475 Report post Posted May 26, 2018 Looking good Vic. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vicfreg 771 Report post Posted May 27, 2018 Got my serpentine drive sorted out. I had bypassed the power steering pump while the engine was on the test stand. Now I am trying to figure out how to route my heater hose line from the water pump to get around my alternator.... Any suggestions would be appreciated.... will probably post something on the technical forum. Also got the door braces from Mike (Latoracing) and put them in, as I will be dropping the engine in and don't want anything moving around... 1 mach1cj reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
EastYorkStang 63 Report post Posted June 5, 2018 Nice project. Where you run your battery cables through the pass. side A-pillar will this interfere with the dash installation? I ran my power cable throught the channel in the rocker up to the A-pillar but I'm encountering a wall just inside it that's preventing me from going further. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vicfreg 771 Report post Posted June 5, 2018 It sounds like that’s where your rockers meet the torque box. You Should not drill through there. That is also where your cowl area is and your air vents are. All the factory wiring runs up and threw those small holes by the door hinges. The dash should fit fine Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vicfreg 771 Report post Posted July 2, 2018 The summer months are slowing me down on the project, but the engine is getting ready to go on the hook and get dropped in. Installed my main ground wire to the chassis, and my flexible dipstick, and my vacuum modulator line. Just things to get out of the way so I can do it without the engine in. The main ground wire is attached to the front frame rail with a 5/16 inch body bolt. I drilled and tapped the hole to make sure I have a really good ground. (0.4 ohms). I insulated it with DEI thermal wrap, as it will be terminated to where the starter is mounted to the block Runs really close to the headers Also got my billet grille and my deep sump C6 transmission pan back from the powder coater. Hope to get the engine in over the long weekend so we’ll see what happens. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ridge Runner 1,112 Report post Posted July 3, 2018 Wow ,that is powder coat ,i like it 1 RPM reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vicfreg 771 Report post Posted July 21, 2018 Finally got the engine in, and bolted to the trans. Headers clear everything, no other interferences, everything lines up I’m happy Thanks to Mike ( Latoracing) for the justable motor mounts they worked out really great 3 SWPruett, RPM and 69Stanger408 reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
69Stanger408 82 Report post Posted July 21, 2018 Way to go Vic....I pulled mine back and out, going to the original color scheme of Ford Chrome Yellow, lots of sanding in the engine bay to remove the new/old paint. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MAC390 327 Report post Posted July 22, 2018 Great work there. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike65 475 Report post Posted July 22, 2018 Looking good Vic. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
newstang 388 Report post Posted July 22, 2018 On 7/2/2018 at 6:24 PM, Vicfreg said: Love the grill, where did you get it? The summer months are slowing me down on the project, but the engine is getting ready to go on the hook and get dropped in. Installed my main ground wire to the chassis, and my flexible dipstick, and my vacuum modulator line. Just things to get out of the way so I can do it without the engine in. The main ground wire is attached to the front frame rail with a 5/16 inch body bolt. I drilled and tapped the hole to make sure I have a really good ground. (0.4 ohms). I insulated it with DEI thermal wrap, as it will be terminated to where the starter is mounted to the block Runs really close to the headers Also got my billet grille and my deep sump C6 transmission pan back from the powder coater. Hope to get the engine in over the long weekend so we’ll see what happens. 2 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vicfreg 771 Report post Posted August 17, 2018 Engine wiring and plumbing coming right along 1 1 Mike65 and SWPruett reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike65 475 Report post Posted August 18, 2018 Looking good Vic. What size fuel lines are you using?. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
