69Stanger408 82 Report post Posted February 11, 2018 On 1/28/2018 at 5:49 PM, Vicfreg said: Working in my trunk now, finishing up rear ground bus wiring. Assume you removed the spare tire support and tire locator bump out that was in this area? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vicfreg 773 Report post Posted February 13, 2018 I ground off the "loop" that is used for the "J-bolt" that holds the spare tire down. If you look at the other pictures, I have underlying spacer boards that run from front to back in the trunk, and I positioned them to go around any "bumps" in the trunk floor. 1 RPM reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted February 13, 2018 That's how I did mine also. It gets pretty crowded in there with the right tail lamp installed. I'm sure you've test fit it with the tail lamp installed. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bryonbush 85 Report post Posted February 14, 2018 On 2/11/2018 at 8:04 AM, Vicfreg said: Hey Byron. Where have you had leaks? I've been running a Saginaw/Borgeson set up on my 1968 for a few years with no issues. I am using the Borgeson supplied hoses on my '68, but they are just long enough, and run too close to my headers, so I have them wrapped in DEI insulation. After the fact, Borgeson recommended using the 6-cylinder hoses, which are longer, as the 6 cylinder cars have the power steering pump in a different location. For my '70, I decided to go in the fendewells and do it myself, after recommendations from some local friends. The Earls hose approach does not require any special tools, and for now, appears to be a good solution. As you know, the proof is when I fire the engine up and whether I have to scramble to tighten fittings..... well ill start at the beginning. i started off with this to replace my old worn out everything when it came to the PS. I bought the kit and used the hoses they provided. problem one is the return prong goes directly into the headers. and its a prong so there's a loose connection there. problem two, like you noticed is that the hoses are right over the headers. A few months of use, which included a few stops on the power tour, the hoses were shot. those hoses always leaked at the box no matter what i did. thats when i decided to make custom hoses to run under the car, then back up along the shock tower. the new hoses worked great. till the seals in the box itself blew. took that box off and sent it to borgeson for repair. this box felt better than the last; much tighter feeling. then comes the hoses busting at the seams on the pressure side. hose #2..same thing this time on the return side. this time i had the hose company crimp on a metal curve to get it away from the headers as much as possible. Now to the pump: somehow this thing is always freaking blowing fluid from the cap. not sure why or how and no matter what i do, it doesnt change. and no, theres no air in the lines, i drive it all over town and just getting out of the garage involves a full turn to turn rotation. im honestly to the point of either going back to stock PS or non power all together. ive posted this rant on this forum before and it seems to me that there is a lot of love or hate for borgeson. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vicfreg 773 Report post Posted February 16, 2018 Oh wow, what a mess. I hate to hear that. I did call Borgeson about the fittings that go into their steering box. I assumed they were the standard o-ring fittings, and they apparently are not. I wanted to go from their box to AN 6 fittings. So, they sold me a couple of non-O ring adaptors. So, maybe that is something you could check. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vicfreg 773 Report post Posted February 16, 2018 Got my booster and master cylinder in today so I can do some measurements for my brake lines. I went with the 2000 vintage Mustang master cylinder, as it is very light, and also was designed to work with 4 wheel disc brakes. It is a 1" bore and has the same internal dimensions as the standard master cylinder with respect to the required rod depth. I used a disc brake proportioning valve from Master Power Brakes. It has a bracket that mounts it under the master cylinder. The modern master cylinder uses ISO fittings, so I got some ISO-Metric adaptors from Mustang Steve. I will also plumb in a brake light switch and not use the pedal mounted one. 1 SWPruett reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike65 475 Report post Posted February 17, 2018 Nice work Vic. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jerrad 0 Report post Posted February 17, 2018 Will the old power brake pedal work with the newer style booster? What booster did you go with? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vicfreg 773 Report post Posted February 17, 2018 Yes the pedal will work as long as you have a power brake car. I used a double diaphragm booster from Master Power Brakes. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jerrad 0 Report post Posted February 17, 2018 I love the setup. With my factory booster, the v6 master cylinder touches the shock tower. Any idea what the part number is for the booster? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vicfreg 773 Report post Posted February 17, 2018 I used an 8" dual diaphragm booster. These were originally supplied for the manual transmission cars, as the larger, 9" booster did not clear the Z-Bar linkage. It should give you a little more braking power. The trade off is that it puts the master cylinder closer to the firewall. So, if you have a Wilwood style master cylinder, and use the dual diaphragm booster, the master cylinder will hit the shock tower and not fit. I used Master Power Brakes, as they a local supplier to the racing industry here in NC. I am sure you can find another one somewhere, but I am happy with the construction and quality. You have to make some minor modifications to where the booster mounts to the firewall, which requires drilling out a small hole at the 6 0-clock position to 5/16", and slightly enlarging (making it kind of oval) the round hole where the brake rod through the firewall. For me, this was pretty easy to do, as my engine is out. Here is the link to their site and the booster. You can call them and just buy the booster instead of the kit, as it is cheaper. BM15213-1 - Power Brake Conversion Kit - 8" Dual Diaphragm Booster (Manual Transmission Only) https://www.mpbrakes.com/booster-master-conversion-kit/ford-mustang-1970-boostermaster.asp Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vicfreg 773 Report post Posted February 17, 2018 Jerrad, if you have plumbed up your V6 master cylinder already, any pictures/advice would be appreciated... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jerrad 0 Report post Posted February 17, 2018 I have not. I'm behind you as far as progress goes. I had my factory booster rebuilt and bought a factory style MC. I bought a rear disc conversion and now I'm second guessing if I'll have enough pressure with the factory setup. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vicfreg 773 Report post Posted February 18, 2018 You should be ok. I have 4 wheel disc manual brakes in my '68. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vicfreg 773 Report post Posted February 18, 2018 Was asked to post some info on my power cable sizes from another forum member. Battery Cables - #1 AWG Cable from battery positive to main disconnect - #1 AWG Cable from main disconnect to trunk mounted solenoid - #1AWG Cable from trunk mounted solenoid to starter - #1AWG Cable from trunk power distribution block to power amp - #6AWG Cable from trunk power distribution block to firewall distribution block - #4 AWG Cable from firewall block to alternator - #6 AWG Cable from firewall block to AAW main power feed/fuse block - #8 AWG EFI and A/C power feeds from firewall block - #10 AWG Cable from firewall block to radiator support block - #4 AWG Electric fan and trans cooler cables from radiator support block - #10 AWG Fuses and fusible links shown on diagram below Cable end crimper shown below 1 69Stanger408 reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Shep69 149 Report post Posted February 19, 2018 I wouldn't expect anything less from you Vic. Great work as always. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vicfreg 773 Report post Posted February 19, 2018 Thanks Mark. Now off to bend some new brake lines. Not my favorite task... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vicfreg 773 Report post Posted February 21, 2018 Started messing with the brake lines, armed with various adaptors and 6 feet of some really neat 3/16" epoxy coated metal brake line from Advanced Auto Parts. I broke out my trusty Eastwood flaring tool, and a couple of old wire coat hangers, and proceeded to make at least 5 different versions of these master cylinder to proportioning valve lines. My concern is that the lines will hit the drivers side valve cover, so I gradually changed the shape to the point where I am pretty sure it will be out of the way. Now to plumb in the front and rear brake lines and the line mounted brake light switch. I will pull all of it out to bench bleed the master cylinder when I am done.... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vicfreg 773 Report post Posted February 21, 2018 The astute observers will notice that the old vise is Ford Blue.... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vicfreg 773 Report post Posted February 21, 2018 Also got a set of beautifully done adjustable motor mounts from one of our Forum members. I will be getting the Poly leaf spring bushings and hardware soon, as I am T (-) 30 days to my target engine install date.... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike65 475 Report post Posted February 22, 2018 Looking good Vic. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted February 22, 2018 1 hour ago, Vicfreg said: Started messing with the brake lines, My concern is that the lines will hit the drivers side valve cover, so I gradually changed the shape to the point where I am pretty sure it will be out of the way. Real nice work Vic. As soon as I discovered the ports on my 2006 Mustang V6 master cylinder were on the engine side, I should've found a different one. It's hard to believe Mustang Steve recommends the V6 master with the right side ports. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vicfreg 773 Report post Posted February 22, 2018 I know, but there must be other people that I’ve done this. It’s actually a really smart set up to use the late-model master cylinder. It all depends on where you put your big brass brake valve. Mine is underneath which is my choice, and that’s kind of a issue. It might be worth just sending mustang Steve an email and try to get some pictures of other installations Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mwye0627 44 Report post Posted February 22, 2018 In the context of this topic, Has anyone considered the use of the late 1990's - early 2000's Ford Explorer master cylinders? These master cylinders were produced for production vehicles with 4 wheel Disc Brake systems and have the output ports facing the left (apron) side. They have a 1.062" bore diameter. I am not 100% certain that the booster bolt spacing or brake pushrod depth is the same as the Mustang M.C. that you are using, but I have seen where people on other forums are using them... If the Explorer M.C. is compatible, I will be using it on my build. Unless anyone has more information, I will have to go to my local parts store and measure the booster and push rod end measurements to verify proper fitment. Thanks... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vicfreg 773 Report post Posted February 22, 2018 Wow, great idea. I will go by Advanced Auto Parts today and get one and compare to the one I have. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
