Johns Summer of 69 14 Report post Posted October 18, 2017 FYI, I am currently having the vintage air setup on my 69/351w which there has been some issues. The compressor bracket is too high so that the lines on the top wouldn't allow the hood to close. It was shortened to allow it to fit. Hope you don't run into that problem... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vicfreg 771 Report post Posted October 20, 2017 Hi John....thanks for the heads up. I am using a serpentine belt setup with a non-vintage air supplied compressor and bracket(s). I will take a look to make sure that I have the clearance, once I get the engine in. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vicfreg 771 Report post Posted October 20, 2017 Ready to get my battery and power distribution panel installed in the trunk, so started on my trunk floor project. Using 1" thick Red Oak supports and 1/2" Birch Plywood. Pics show my mock up, trial and error fit up. I plan to box in the sides and front using removable panels. Will have sub-woofer and power amp on drivers side, and battery on passenger side. Will also run my AAW and other wires under the floor while I am at it. More to come.... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike65 475 Report post Posted October 20, 2017 Vic, that will look nice & clean when done. Are you going to paint the wood or cover it with the trunk mat?. I am thinking of doing some thing to cover the top of the gas tank in my Coupe. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vicfreg 771 Report post Posted October 20, 2017 Plan is to cover it and the sides with carpet and vinyl. Since your Coupe trunk is pretty much the same as my Convertible, I will make sure I take a bunch of pictures. Downside is that there will be no spare tire. For my 1968 coupe, I got a really nice carpet kit from NPD that uses some thin flexible board pieces covered with thick carpet, and uses Velcro attachments. Pic below Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vicfreg 771 Report post Posted October 20, 2017 Working on my battery tray. Will use Optima Red Top. Top red block is main power distribution block. Black item below that is 175 amp Maxi Fuse, which is my main power feed to the front of the car. Running a #4 wire up front to firewall mounted power point which is my main power feed for the car. Clear item below that is Rockford Fosgate 60 amp fuse which will run to my power amp, uses really nice, multi-strand #6 wire that comes with the R-F kit. Main power disconnect will go to positive battery terminal, and feeds the red block on top, as well as the power side of the starter solenoid, which will be mounted on the back, out of site. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
unilec 57 Report post Posted October 21, 2017 On 10/19/2017 at 2:26 AM, Johns Summer of 69 said: FYI, I am currently having the vintage air setup on my 69/351w which there has been some issues. The compressor bracket is too high so that the lines on the top wouldn't allow the hood to close. It was shortened to allow it to fit. Hope you don't run into that problem... You need to turn the compressor on its side so the hose connections are on the drivers side. Damn photo bucket. Check out the engine bay photos here. http://www.mustangdepot.com/OnLineCatalog/ACSystems/perfect_fit_system.htm Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vicfreg 771 Report post Posted October 22, 2017 Used later, heavy duty solenoid from F-250. Has only one small terminal, due to use with Ford Duraspark (non points) ignition system. Mounted on back of power panel. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vicfreg 771 Report post Posted October 22, 2017 Black battery cable is Mil-Spec surplus item comes assembled as shown. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RogerC 136 Report post Posted October 22, 2017 1 hour ago, Vicfreg said: Is that zip-tie holding up the bottom red cable permanent? I'd get rid of it, it'll just move around chaffing into the cable insulation. I'd put a cushion clamp, like above it, and attach to that middle bolt/nut to the right. I'd much rather use cushion clamps than zip-ties wherever possible. That setup looks real nice & professional. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vicfreg 771 Report post Posted October 23, 2017 Hi Roger, good catch. I am using the tie's to keep the wires in place while I install the cushion clamps.... I agree 100%. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Johns Summer of 69 14 Report post Posted October 24, 2017 I was thinking about something like this since I can't get a answer from the tank armor guy about the amount of space between the tank and the armor, since all the fuel lines are now on the top with the EFI tank. Looking good... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vicfreg 771 Report post Posted October 25, 2017 Hi John. I checked out the Tank Armor, but in my case, wasn't that interested in it. If I had EFI Fuel lines on top of my tank, I would probably have a removable access cover in my trunk floor, just in case I needed to get to the fuel pump and lines. Let me know what you do, would love to see pictures. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vicfreg 771 Report post Posted October 30, 2017 More progress being made on the trunk project, trying to get all of my woodworking in (outside) before the weather gets cold. Got my back panel to a press fit, and temporarily fastened it. There is a 1" x 1-1/2" Red Oak strip at the top and bottom that the back panel gets screwed to. Hole cut in the back panel is for a 13"x23" Marine hatch which will give me access to my convertible top motor, PWM controller, power amp, and subwoofer Right side is the battery/power center, which will have a removable box around it. Left side will be a "inset" storage area. Taillight panel and gas filler pipe area requires more thinking, but have a plan. More to come. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bryonbush 85 Report post Posted November 2, 2017 that trunk and power set up will look nice once done. im still deciding if I want to relocate the battery to the back or not in my vert when i re do my wiring. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vicfreg 771 Report post Posted November 6, 2017 The weather was pretty good here on Sunday, so pretty much finished up my trunk woodworking for now, and got my power center installed. Lots of trial and error fitting up required, as well as a good jigsaw. First pic shows the top piece. It is shaped kinda like a "U" with wings, as all of this mess needs to allow access to install the tail lights and bumper brackets. Next few pics show various angles of the final fit up. I also installed the Marine hatch, a really nice piece. Adjacent to it are some LED lights. There will be another 2 in the tail light panel area. These will be hooked to my AAW wiring harness rear dome light wiring (not used in convertibles), so anytime you open the doors, the trunk lights will go on. Last set of pics show my power center finally installed, and the #0 remote starter cable and the #4 main power feed that I am running up front. I will remove the tail light panel section pieces and keep them aside until after the car is painted. 2 SWPruett and Footcutter11 reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted November 7, 2017 Looks real nice Fred, or Vic or... (: You gonna have access to the lights? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MAC390 327 Report post Posted November 7, 2017 Nice work there. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vicfreg 771 Report post Posted November 8, 2017 Thanks for the comments. Bob - good question. I made sure that I had access to the side marker lights, tail lights, and the bumper bracket bolt holes when I laid out all of this stuff. I am doing this now so after I get the car painted, I can just drop the pre-fabricated parts in, fasten them, and cover with carpet. It is really tight on the tail light panel side, and I did the first mock ups with thick cardboard to make sure I had room. Then I put the tail light housings in, and measured to allow room to ensure there were no interferences. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vicfreg 771 Report post Posted November 9, 2017 Continued running my main power wire and my starter wire from the trunk to the firewall. The black terminal block is where I will run my alternator feed to from the engine compartment. The red terminal is a "pass-through" for my large cable that will run to my starter. I routed the main power wire under the seat support, and tucked in under the inner rocker. Had to drill a couple holes and use grommets. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vicfreg 771 Report post Posted November 17, 2017 Thought I would post a firewall picture before I started doing too much work. Good reference for 1970 A/C Convertible. Will also post on Tech Forum Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
latoracing 256 Report post Posted November 18, 2017 Oh the days of sitting in that engine bay when it was ugly lol. That looks very nice Vic! 1 RPM reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stangnet33 88 Report post Posted November 18, 2017 Things looking great ! Curious on what you're running for a spare tire ? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
newstang 388 Report post Posted November 18, 2017 Do like me, spare tire provided by AAA :-) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vicfreg 771 Report post Posted November 20, 2017 Hey Mike...yep, you helped the ugly old wreck become a real car..... Spare tire is not an option for a variety of reasons. I have AAA also... Not only won't the tire fit in the trunk, but I am running staggered tires/rims. I have 18 x 9.5 in the back and 17 x 8 in the front. They are nearly the same height, but not worth buying a fifth Foose wheel and tire combo.... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
