Sloppy Steering Box

[RobotMan 264]

After assembling the steering column and wheel on my son's car, we were surprised at he amount of slop in the wheel due to play in the steering box.  Even though the steering box is an original, I thought it felt fine.  However, the wheel magnified the play and creates a considerable dead spot in the wheel.  If I were to buy a remanufactured one or rebuild this one, would the play be significantly addressed or is this just what you get with the older steering box design?  Thanks for your input.

 

Rick

[69RavenConv 286]

Repacking with grease can help a lot (the "good" grease is available at Ford parts counters).

 

http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/vintage-mustang-forum/554324-grease-steering-box-poor-man-s-power-steering.html

 

There is also an adjustment screw on the box but be very careful fooling with it unless you've educated yourself first. Of course a rebuilt unit is always an option, too. These will never feel like modern cars but there are a few things you can do to revitalize them.

[1969Fstback 58]

This may not be your case, but I have a power steering box and rack. I however, do not have the pump on which causes a dead spot without pressure on the valve.

[Ridge Runner 1,112]

I would check the Adjustment on the box ,it is probably  loose .If it doesn't have a grinding noise from pitted or rusted internal bearings it is adjustable .There is a certain way to adjust them but i can't remember right now .

[Wycked69 20]

Your original can be rebuilt. It's a little more involved than you might think. I would suggest using Dan at Chockostang or Roger Rodes at Rodes Restorations. I have used them both

 

http://www.chockostangclassicmustang.com/discbrakepowersteering/steeringboxs.html

 

Rodes restoration

1406 Lohr Rd,

Galion, OH 44833

 

Phone:(419) 468-5182

[RobotMan 264]

Thanks guys.  I see the input shaft turning and no response from the output side.  So there is a little slop.  I will investigate your suggestions.

 

Rick

[Dave R. 85]

I think steering repairs fall under the category of "some things are better left to the professionals". Dan at Chockostang may still be on a lengthy vacation. I believe he said so on the VMF a few weeks ago. Dave R.

[Ridge Runner 1,112]

It has been a while since i adjusted one but Adjusting was simple and would save some $$ if that is all it is .If it doesnt make a grinding noise when turned it is probably still good .I would repack it with grease first .

[RobotMan 264]

Does anyone have an adjustment procedure?

[Ridge Runner 1,112]

There is a video on Utube but i don't know how to post a link   How to tighten a steering box . Well maybe ?

How To Tighten your Steering Box - YouTube

[Ridge Runner 1,112]

www.Stangersite.com 

[DocWok 30]

Adjusting the steering box is fairly straight forward.

 

The workshop manual will show that you should use special tools to do correctly, however if you want to give it a try yourself without the special tools you'll get the adjustment very close.

 

It can be adjusted mounted in position in the car but it is difficult.

It's easier if you disconnect the pitman arm from the drag link and also disconnect the input shaft coupling, remove the box from the car and hold it in a bench vice.

 

You will see a threaded rod with a slot for a screwdriver and lock nut on top, loosen the lock nut and back off (anti clock wise) the threaded rod 4 or 5 turns. This will disengage the sector shaft (the one your pitman arm attaches to) mesh from the worm shaft (input shaft).

 

Now undo the big lock nut on the input shaft cap, you can use a hammer and punch to do this. Now back off the cap until you can fell some end play on the input shaft when you pull it back and forth by hand.

What you do now is tighten the cap bit by bit until there is no more end play on the input shaft, stop there. Now tighten the adjust cap a little bit more this will preload the bearings, doesn't need much maybe a 1/16th of a turn, hold the cap in that position and tighten the lock nut.

 

Now lightly grip the input shaft with a pair of vice grips, this will allow you to turn the input shaft while you adjust the sector shaft mesh.

 

What you do now is while you turn the input shaft by hand as far as it will go in one direction then stop and wind it back the other way until it stops, you need to keep doing this back and forth while you start screwing the sector shaft threaded rod back in, this will adjust your mesh, at a certain point as your winding the input shaft back and forth and also screwing the threaded rod in you will start to feel the input shaft get a bit of a tight spot at the half way point as you wind it back and forth, you only need to feel it start to drag, hold the threaded rod in position with a screw driver and do up the lock nut, you mesh adjustment is now done. If you screw the threaded rod in to much the input shaft will feel too tight to wind past the center position and if you don't wind the threaded rod in enough you wont feel any drag in the centre position. It might take you a few tries to get the adjustment just right.

 

That's about it, the box is now adjusted good enough and you can reinstall it.

[RobotMan 264]

Thanks Doc!!! Appreciate your time to write the detailed procedure.

 

Rick

[MikeStang 247]

Buy a rebuild kit from 
Stangersite and rebuild it... I used his kit on both my Steering box and power steering Ram and Valve and i have no leaks and it works flawlessly.

I am also running a newer style power steering pump from a 95 Ford as well

[very fat and very dumb 40]

Red Head Steering Gear in Seattle Washington, it's all they do and they dot it for customers all over the world.  They are a legitimate company with a very nice shop and their turn around time is great, I think mine was next day.

[RobotMan 264]

I removed the steering box, packed it with fresh grease, and  adjusted it per the posted procedure.  The box is now a lot tighter and moves a ton better than before.  Thanks for the help guys.

 

Rick