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mustangstofear

Craig from New Zealand

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Rich, thanks again for the windshield tutorial....awesome!!! Now, how bout one for the rear glass? Doesn't look like the rear glass is in yet, be a good time to make another quality MTF tutorial....lol! Seriously, I've read in various postings where people had to do some serious trimming to the gasket. It was very ill fitting and the trim would not sit down correctly. Can I ask what specific gasket you use and if it has been your experience to routinely trim said gasket?

Thanks,

John  

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We have a  video on the  65-68 windshield  install, the backglass is the same  procedure. We  use Daniel  Carpenter for  all our gaskets and  weatherstrip. I  do shave the lip off the top edge of the windshield  gasket. Gives more  clearance for the  top molding on the  65-68

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2 hours ago, mustangstofear said:

We have a  video on the  65-68 windshield  install, the backglass is the same  procedure. We  use Daniel  Carpenter for  all our gaskets and  weatherstrip. I  do shave the lip off the top edge of the windshield  gasket. Gives more  clearance for the  top molding on the  65-68

Checked it out, very informative. Thank you!

Man, I'd sweep the floors, take out the trash, and clean the bathrooms in that shop just to learn and be a part. Need some help...LOL!?!

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That's a  good idea,  not sure  the customer  wants  it. We  were  talking about doing  some  black on the back of the  hood like the 68 Shelby  style.  We had next to nothing for body work  on the hood.  Just prime  and block,  really  happy  how the hood  turned out. 

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2 hours ago, mustangstofear said:

That's a  good idea,  not sure  the customer  wants  it. We  were  talking about doing  some  black on the back of the  hood like the 68 Shelby  style.  We had next to nothing for body work  on the hood.  Just prime  and block,  really  happy  how the hood  turned out. 

 Whaaat? You can stay, but the BS has got to go. 

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10 hours ago, mustangstofear said:

Looking for  suggestions on some cool headlights.  

They drive on the wrong side in New Zealand. If the car is going to be registered and driven there, you may want to look for UK spec headlights.

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8 hours ago, aslanefe said:

They drive on the wrong side in New Zealand. If the car is going to be registered and driven there, you may want to look for UK spec headlights.

We have a 3 inch thick book on spec's we have to go by. Every country we ship to  have guide  lines and require certified  engineer testing.  All of our IFS had been approved,  but we had to have our new Watt's link  done. We summited using our  engineers and  it came in  twice as  strong as  neccessary.  We  took  it one step further,  we hired a  firm  that  only does suspension and they came up with the  same  results.  I asked  them if  there was anything we could do to make it  3 to 4 times  stronger. They felt  it wasn't  necessary but  did make a  suggestion and  we   made the change.

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8 hours ago, mustangstofear said:

I know  it's  hard to believe,  but after  spending  over 11,000 on  this mold, it better  fit :)

Oh...I get it now. 

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1 hour ago, mustangstofear said:

That's the  brand we normally  use, we did try the more expensive  ones from  NPD, but didn't  see any  difference. 

They are not as wide as they used to be. The manufacturer of the material is making them narrower for the last few years, because of that it does not touch the glass on some cars no matter how you adjust the glass or the runs without bending, cutting rewelding etc of the run and or top of the door frame where the run is mounted to. I think the more expensive ones (can't remember the brand) use the same manufacturer as their felts are the same dimension as Repops.

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