preferable 351W block?

[alex 18]

I am looking around for a 351W block to build.  Nothing crazy, no forced induction.  I have found a 351W block in a 1989 F-150 with a casting number of E9AE-6015-AA-11.  Is this a block that would be a good starting point for a 408 build?  If not, what would be a good starting point?

[barnett468 418]

yes, bu if you dont drive it every day i would make it a 418.

[Footcutter11 23]

Don't remember where I got it, but I got a remanned 351W, 4.060 over, and stroked it to 4.17 (431 CID).  The block came machined and ready to stuff for $700. It had been magna fluxed, cleaned and honed.  I will look in my records for the shop I got it from.  I am also running boost with twin turbos, and I have no complaints.

[Footcutter11 23]

http://www.competitionproducts.com/Fully-Machined-Ford-351W-Block-4060-Bore/productinfo/PMB351-060/#.VkYUj7erSUk

 

Price has gone up a little.

[Rsanter 152]

On one hand that block is good from the point that I belive that is the one that can accept the common ford roller caw setup.

 

On the other hand the blocks from 1969 to early 70s have a stronger bottom end.

 

As a play toy with no power adders, that block should be fine

 

Bob

[MikeStang 247]

If your hitting the scrap yards for one, just pick one that has a factory Roller cam so you wont need the retrofit roller lifters which will save you 300-500 bucks, that way you can go with a more aggressive cam profile roller and get what I consider free power.

351 Truck & Van blocks will work fine.

If you find one with a Serpintine system even better

[Rsmach1 71]

As stated the 69-70 blocks were the strongest. I believe it was the 91 and later blocks that came equipped with a roller cam, but you need to have these thoroughly checked, as some of them have had problems with cracking in the cam journal area.

[det0326 179]

I think around mid year 93 was the first 351w roller. It carriers the casting number F4TE

I have a 1991 block and it is non roller.

 

Dave

[Rsmach1 71]

Thanks Dave

[cavboy78 28]

x2 on the F4TE block. Unless your build is going to be ridiculuous, i would find it hard to believe that you could split one of these blocks. Def worth going the roller route... Mine came out of a 94 Lightning FWIW...

[MikeStang 247]

I'm running a 1995 351W block from a Ford Lightning.

I had it bored .030 over and checked out then it was stroked and poked to 408 Cubes.

While the Early 60s era blocks may be a bit stronger in some areas structurally, there is no reason to reject a newer model block at all.

 

Most of the older blocks that I have been around that were stroked seemed to run hotter than mine ever has... My car maintains 190 temps in 95 degree heat with the AC on and a cheap ass champion radiator... I have often wondered if it has anything to do with the fact I am running the reverse rotation water pump set up or that maybe Ford made some cooling revisions in the blocks themselves, or perhaps the added material of the older blocks simply does not dissipate heat as well as the newer ones.

 

Now compare the weight of a Retro fit link bar style lifter with a standard roller lifter in the newer blocks and you will see a significant difference, which computes to more lost horsepower for the added weight of the Retro fit lifters in the older blocks.

Then you have to consider the fact that finding an older block at a decent price is not easy, not to mention they are usually already bored or have severe pitting.

 

When I had my engine done I used Ross Pistions, a New Cast stroker crank, and New I-Beam rods with All ARP studs and bolts, then added a Main Girdle to it for peace of mind and it made 550hp at the Flywheel and did it all at 6,000 Rpm's if I recall correctly.

I really have Zero concerns about tearing this thing up, the Cam is not really that big of a Roller in comparison to most and you can hardly even hear the dern thing lope... Of course to make that kinda Power you need Good heads and a matched cam etc....

But if your looking for 600hp or less I would say don't shy away from a newer block.... you could probably push 700 hp safely with the right parts and a good girdle Etc... Just have to be sure its all balanced correctly and tuned right and keep it under 6k....After all isn't that what a stroker is good for Stump pulling Torque at low RPM's ?

[MikeStang 247]

I would be happy to supply a build sheet along with Cam grind info if anyone wants a Proven 500 Plus Hp Combination.

And it would be cheaper than buying a Crate motor

[1969_Mach1 333]

1)  For running a factory hydraulic roller cam setup look for a 351W block from a 1995 and newer pick up.  Those are hydraulic roller compatible.  They also have a 1 piece rear main seal.  For some reason I think the casting numbers on these blocks start with F4 for year 1994.  If you are using factory clutch linkage the casting boss on the left rear/side of the block is missing.  There are brackets to overcome that. 

 

2)  The 1969 351W blocks are stronger in the main bearing area but they are not setup for a factory hydraulic roller cam arrangement.  The 1969 351W block has about 10 lbs more material on it than a late model block.  You have to use retrofit tie bar style lifters or a retrofit small base circle cam if hydraulic roller is what you want to use.  They have a slightly shorter deck height, 9.480 vs. 9.503 for 1974 and later which narrows down choices for off-the-shelf pistons.  Factory clutch is not an issue.

 

I would not spend money on a 1989 351W block.  It's neither hydraulic roller compatible or the as strong as the early blocks.

 

Ford Racing use to offer a new lower end performance 351W block that had the best features of all.  The stronger old block, hydraulic roller compatible, 1 piece rear main seal, and the casting boss for stock clutch linkage.  It use to be listed for about $1200 and came finish machined.

[Ridge Runner 1,112]

My 69 351 has been dyno tested and drag tested @ 512 hp at 7k RPM . This thing has had so much work done to it it should be hanging in an art gallery .Around $10,000.in it .It is a solid lift flat tappet 292 comp cam And you can here it .I have personally tripped the rev limiter set at 7 K RPM. I ran it one time in the garage with open headers and thought it was going to blow my ear drums . I have one 1969 std. bore 351 but i am hanging on to it .I do have two std.bore 351 Cleveland 4 bolt mains though .

[Rsmach1 71]

For those who have or plan on building a 351w using the F4TE block, here is a link to the cracking issue I referred to. Not all the blocks have or get it, but it is something to be aware of. The thread was started by Woody from Fordstrokers.com, a reputable builder. http://forums.corral.net/forums/5-0-5-8-engine-tech/1352369-must-read-psa-windsor-roller-block-guys.html#/forumsite/20549/topics/1352369?page=1

[J's69Mach1 17]

Thanks Rsmach1, for the info. I just read the link and appreciate the heads up on these F4TE blocks. I was not aware of it. As I was currently interested in a junkyard block I'd seen in a 1995 van. But now , nevermind.

[J's69Mach1 17]

Ridge Runner what heads are running on your 69 351w? Is your car streetable or just for drag racing?

[Rsmach1 71]

Don't take it as these blocks are not good, it's only some that have had the problem. As long as your aware of what to look for. After thorough checking and not finding cracks, Woody still uses the F4TE blocks.

 

Not sure what heads Ridge runs, but depending on your budget, it's hard to beat AFR's.

[sportsroof69 13]

Late model ones are plenty strong, and unless you plan on making 800 HP, it doesn't matter. Also, I'd recommend a set of Morel link bar lifters in any performance build, and if that's what you do, it doesn't matter if it's a roller block or not. All you need is link bar lifters to make it work.

[sportsroof69 13]

And woody seems to be the only person on earth that's seen this cracking "problem." He's very good at marketing and selling......

[Rsmach1 71]

And woody seems to be the only person on earth that's seen this cracking "problem." He's very good at marketing and selling......

If he was saying not to use them and buy his blocks, I would agree with your statement. He even states he uses the ones without cracks. He has ZERO to gain by pointing this out, and doing so might save someone from a possible failure, and I agree with using morel link bar lifters over the stock dogbone setup.

[sportsroof69 13]

I've dealt with woody, and some of the things he does might surprise a lot of people..........

 

 

I just know that the machinist I use has also built a ton of SBFs, and has never, not once, seen a block like that. So while there may be a few out there, it's far from a common issue. I wouldn't be worried in the least to pull a motor at a salvage yard and use the block.

[Rsmach1 71]

By your post I had a feeling you've had dealings with him, and I'm guessing unfavorable. The whole point of my post was to was to inform of a possible issue, not to promote his business. I for one am glad to have learned of this as now I know one more thing to look for. I never intended it to be a warning not to use the F4TE block, as I stated, just something to be aware of.

[Ridge Runner 1,112]

Ridge Runner what heads are running on your 69 351w? Is your car streetable or just for drag racing?

They are Edelbrok but they have been completely re worked .It runs 13 -1 compression and it was built as a drag motor .Will not be streetable with out race fuel but that is the fun of it ,it is not going to be a daily driver ,just a have fun toy .These 69 blocks are about the toughest blocks i have seen ,especially when they are deburred and smoothed inside .Mine has studs for the mains also .