Has anyone put a GearVendor Overdrive on their pony?

[Mach1 Driver 560]

Does anyone have any experience or tips about the GearVendor overdrive? I have a 69 Mach1, 351w with an FMX.

 

I an guessing that it would be easier to add a GearVendor than to drop-in and AOD, AODE, or 4R70W. Since you keep your old tranny and add the OD to the back of it, and that combination is not as fat as the AODs etc., then you could keep the old exhaust  or  use long tube headers instead of shorties and the plumbing would be easier??

 

Potentially you could have six forward speeds although I read that most people just use the 3 + OD.

 

The shift and carb linkage remain stock and electronics will automatically shift it into overdrive at the proper speed, just like driving one of the AODs.

 

You don't need a new transmission support- everything happens behind the tranny. You just need to shorten the driveshaft. 

 

One downside is the price: $2795

 

 

[MN69Grande 203]

This is interesting because I've got the AOD vs Gear Vendors debate going too.  Only I'm going to have to save up a few nickels and dimes before I do it.  It would be interesting to hear if anyone on the site is running the Gear Vendors Over/Under drive.  I like the idea of running a bigger dif and still being able to cruise at decent RPMs.  The AOD has a lower final drive ratio, but GVs are supposed to be bullet proof and shift really nice.

[lanky 44]

For that price do research on a 4r70w swap. Less money than that, better transmission, plus overdrive. Original crossmember can be modded or theres a crossmember out there for this. Trans controller, shifter, tps, you can use your fmx flexplate and the lockup converter from the junkyard car. Way better setup. Personally I would never purchase an add-on overdrive. I will be doing this swap when my fmx poops.

[MikeStang 247]

My 4R70W swap cost me about $1500.00 bucks to do and I am Very pleased with it

[moodster 55]

Never installed it but certainly have considered it for the exact reasons you mention - ease of installation and simplicity of function.  I read in one article however that you have to change the oil in the unit every 5k... is that true?  It doesn't look like it would be easy to change the oil in it.

 

david

[Mach1 Driver 560]

Never installed it but certainly have considered it for the exact reasons you mention - ease of installation and simplicity of function.  I read in one article however that you have to change the oil in the unit every 5k... is that true?  It doesn't look like it would be easy to change the oil in it.

 

david

David, I've not read about changing the oil- maybe that's for extreme users, racers and the like? Lots of guys use it at the track and its supposedly good to 2000 hp. I haven't been able to break the little FMX in the 46 years I've owned it but I'm planning on some go fast goodies that will bump the power up to about 450 hp. I intend a tranny rebuild but I do wonder if the FMX will handle the load.

[jgkurz 52]

4R70W is a superb way to go. Very strong trans with modern features like lockup. Supposedly they support up to 700hp. You will need to wire in the trans controller which is a chore but I think it is worth the effort. 

[moodster 55]

The second article under the page "Magazine Articles" on the GearVendors site... where they install the unit in a 68 Chevelle mentions that the oil has to be changed every 5k miles.  I just noticed that you're the original owner of your 69 Mach... that's awesome!  Have you had to modify the car much or have you stayed really close to the original?  

 

david

[Rsmach1 71]

I've never looked at the gear vendors OD unit, and at the price you posted I never will lol. For that kind of $ you can get an OD trans and have $ to spare.

[RPM 1,190]

Granted, the OD trannys get better mileage, but I can buy a lot of gallons of gas for the $1,500 or $3,000 to do the conversion. Heck, I may not live long enough to break even. Then on top of the cost, you've got the labor involved. 

[Mach1 Driver 560]

The second article under the page "Magazine Articles" on the GearVendors site... where they install the unit in a 68 Chevelle mentions that the oil has to be changed every 5k miles.  I just noticed that you're the original owner of your 69 Mach... that's awesome!  Have you had to modify the car much or have you stayed really close to the original?  

 

david

David,

My Mach is completely stock and the most reliable car I've ever owned. We bought it new when my wife and I were 19 and have only had to replace the water pump and do normal maintenance things like tires, brakes, batteries and tuneups. It has around 76k miles and was her daily driver for about 30 years. She passed away about 13 years ago but I've kept the car and still love to drive it. Now that I'm retired I intend to restore it...with a few modifications :)

[Mach1 Driver 560]

4R70W is a superb way to go. Very strong trans with modern features like lockup. Supposedly they support up to 700hp. You will need to wire in the trans controller which is a chore but I think it is worth the effort. 

If you have a 351w with headers do you mind telling me the make/model? Apparently many people have trouble getting around the fat OD trannies. Any other info on the swap would be appreciated too.

[ashleesmach1 28]

Gear vendor too expensive! 4R70W is the superb way to go

[Mach1 Driver 560]

I've been trolling the web and found the following, most of which was posted by Rory on 1/18/08:

 

Reasons for an AOD-
1) Cleaner install (not visible to the casual observer - stock drive shaft, no switches).
Reasons against an AOD-
1) Heavier, less efficient than C4, C6, FMX (more parasitic loss)
2) Requires mods for big blocks or high power applications
3) Funky manual gear selection

Reasons for a GearVendors-
1) Works with any transmission or engine
2) double the number of gears
3) very strong
Reasons against GearVendors-
1) Heavier than C4, C6, FMX, AOD, AODE, 4R70W (when added to existing transmission)
2) Parasitic loss due to rotating mass
3) Visible mods - short driveshaft, switches, unit itself

4) No way/difficult to have a parking brake

5) Must change oil in OD every 5k miles

6) GV is long, adds extra complexity, and shortens the drive shaft causing alignment issues leading to harmonic vibrations. At least one Stang owner had to use a carbon fiber drive shaft to eliminate about 95% of the vibration.

7) GV is costly plus you probably want to rebuild your existing tranny before adding the OD.

Reasons for an AODE or 4R70W-
1) Many design improvements over the AOD (e.g. stronger)
2) Flexibility in shift programming
3) Programmable lockup for greater efficiency
4) Clean install (few visible mods)
Reasons against AODE or 4R70W-
1) Requires computer module
2) Heavier than C4/C6
3) Not for big blocks (adapter available?).

4) Still have funky manual gear selection. B&M has a "Hammer" shifter but it is unknown to me at this time if it will fit into a 69 Mach console or what clearance is below. Anybody tried this?

5) Fatter tranny so must use shortie headers. Anybody know what headers will work with a 351w and 4R70W in a 69?

In other words, there is no clear winner; all have their advantages/disadvantages...but I am leaning toward a 4R70W at this time.

[jgkurz 52]

If you have a 351w with headers do you mind telling me the make/model? Apparently many people have trouble getting around the fat OD trannies. Any other info on the swap would be appreciated too.

I just pulled the old engine out of my car. I will be putting in an FE with the 4R70W. I also have FPA headers which should help it all fit. I bought a kit that includes the 4R70W crossmember, shift rod, and range selector mount. After some research I don't expect any tunnel issues as compared to my C6. The install will happen as soon as I finish restoring the engine compartment.

[blueblood 26]

I've been trolling the web and found the following, most of which was posted by Rory on 1/18/08:

 

Reasons for an AOD-1) Cleaner install (not visible to the casual observer - stock drive shaft, no switches).Reasons against an AOD-1) Heavier, less efficient than C4, C6, FMX (more parasitic loss)2) Requires mods for big blocks or high power applications3) Funky manual gear selectionReasons for a GearVendors-1) Works with any transmission or engine2) double the number of gears3) very strongReasons against GearVendors-1) Heavier than C4, C6, FMX, AOD, AODE, 4R70W (when added to existing transmission)2) Parasitic loss due to rotating mass3) Visible mods - short driveshaft, switches, unit itself

4) No way/difficult to have a parking brake

5) Must change oil in OD every 5k miles

6) GV is long, adds extra complexity, and shortens the drive shaft causing alignment issues leading to harmonic vibrations. At least one Stang owner had to use a carbon fiber drive shaft to eliminate about 95% of the vibration.

7) GV is costly plus you probably want to rebuild your existing tranny before adding the OD.Reasons for an AODE or 4R70W-1) Many design improvements over the AOD (e.g. stronger)2) Flexibility in shift programming3) Programmable lockup for greater efficiency4) Clean install (few visible mods)Reasons against AODE or 4R70W-1) Requires computer module2) Heavier than C4/C63) Not for big blocks (adapter available?).

4) Still have funky manual gear selection. B&M has a "Hammer" shifter but it is unknown to me at this time if it will fit into a 69 Mach console or what clearance is below. Anybody tried this?

5) Fatter tranny so must use shortie headers. Anybody know what headers will work with a 351w and 4R70W in a 69?In other words, there is no clear winner; all have their advantages/disadvantages...but I am leaning toward a 4R70W at this time.

I think there are some replacement valve bodies for the AOD that improves performance and eliminates the 1-2-1,shuffle.

[MikeStang 247]

1. The Bauman Computer is the way to go for computer control on a 4R70W and is very simple to wire up.

Spend the extra 70 bucks and get their new Transmission harness as well.

 

2. FRP Long tubes fit just fine around a 4R70W Trans. I built a set of shorties out of some Fox Body headers before I ordered my FRP headers

But with te FRP headers you will need to use their power steering drop bracket which is no big deal, it just bolts in place of the stock bracket on one side of the frame rail.

 

3. You will need to shorten your stock driveshaft, and if its an FMX in the car now you will need to swap the front Yolk to a C4 yolk or just order a new drive shaft the correct length.

 

4. I'm running a B&M Hammer shifter and it works just fine, but its not in a Stock console either, it bolts to the trans tunnel like any other ratchet shifter does, but if you were creative I'm sure you could figure out how to stick it in a stock console, but it wont look like it goes there

 

[Mach1 Driver 560]

1. The Bauman Computer is the way to go for computer control on a 4R70W and is very simple to wire up.

Spend the extra 70 bucks and get their new Transmission harness as well.

 

2. FRP Long tubes fit just fine around a 4R70W Trans. I built a set of shorties out of some Fox Body headers before I ordered my FRP headers

But with te FRP headers you will need to use their power steering drop bracket which is no big deal, it just bolts in place of the stock bracket on one side of the frame rail.

 

3. You will need to shorten your stock driveshaft, and if its an FMX in the car now you will need to swap the front Yolk to a C4 yolk or just order a new drive shaft the correct length.

 

4. I'm running a B&M Hammer shifter and it works just fine, but its not in a Stock console either, it bolts to the trans tunnel like any other ratchet shifter does, but if you were creative I'm sure you could figure out how to stick it in a stock console, but it wont look like it goes there

Thanks that's very helpful.

1. I'll look into the Bauman controller- there are 4 or 5 out there so its good to know which are well received. I'll definitely go with their harness.

2 I didn't know any long tube headers would fit around a 4R70W- that helps keep the air pumping. Good tip about the PS bracket.

3. I read that some guys buy aluminum or even carbon fiber driveshafts- that must be expensive.

4. I too was concerned that the Hammer shifter would look out of place in a Mach console. I contacted Monster Transmissions who sent this email: "You don't really need to change the shifter, the transmission will still go through all gears you just wont be able to hold it in 1st you'll be in 2nd. Or you can get to Shift works and they have kits for this." This makes it sound like in the standard shift pattern PRND21: 2=3 and 1=2?? I have sent an email to Shift Works but not received a reply.

[Mach1 Driver 560]

From MikeStang in your post above (#2) it sounds like you didn't have any trouble fitting your FRP's around the transmission, but in another post about your driveshaft alignment issues you wrote the following and I wondered if the idler arm issue was resolved with the use of the PS bracket? Or is this not related? 

Oh on a side note my FPA headers had 1 tube hitting the Idler arm on the frame and I called them about it and when I told them I had an aftermarket trans and xmember in the car his first answer was for me to loosten the transmission and shift it over some to get the clearance I needed because he said those  aftermarket X-Members are never right... I was like WTF I need like 1/64" MAYBE 1/32nd and your telling me to move my transmission alignment ?? REALLY??

He said they have a jig for their headers and build a lot of them and that he doubted it was off.

They had plenty of room to rotate the tube down and still have same ground clearance but im sure there is a reason the build them like they do.

Also my car feels more sluggish now that I have the Stepped primary long tubes as opposed to my home built / modified 1-7/8" shorties that leaked.... its sounds different, and runs different.... Not to pleased with the results of long tubes :(                                                                                                                     

[Mach1 Driver 560]

Concerning the use of the stock shifter with the Lentech Street Terminator 4R70W "The pattern is P, R, N, OD/D,2,1. So O/D and D share a position and an electric switch is used to cancel o/d when desired. A separate install/wiring kit has a fitting to get through the case to access the solenoid for the OD delete function. It does shift fully auto up and down through all 4 gears in OD position. You can hold 1st and 2nd manually as desired".

 

So the reasons against the AODE or 4R70W further up in this post:

4) Still have funky manual gear selection. B&M has a "Hammer" shifter but it is unknown to me at this time if it will fit into a 69 Mach console or what clearance is below. Anybody tried this?

All of this is addressed with the Lentech mentioned immediately above.

5) Fatter tranny so must use shortie headers. Anybody know what headers will work with a 351w and 4R70W in a 69?

MikeStang says FPA Ford Powertrain Applications has long tube headers that fit a 351w with a slight tweak of a prybar "it didn't take much but I got it done and they fit fine now. The clearance issue was on the passenger side btw... I actually had to remove the nut on the idler arm and grind the washer down that's on there because it was actually bigger than the damn idler arm casting body haha". The driver side fit fine but required a power steering drop bracket that lowers the end of the PS ram a little to clear the collector area- this available from FPA apparently.

 

I think this makes the 4R70W the clear winner of the four: GearVendors OD, AOD, AODE or 4R70W

[MikeStang 247]

You HAVE to have the power steering Adapter bracket, they will sale it to you when you order your headers if you have factory PS... It just drops the end of the ram down a little lower to clear the headers... Not all cars and parts are created equal you must remember... I may have an idler arm that has a larger than standard body, there by causing it to hit the header. but its an easy fix.

I have my Baumans controller set up so that I don't have an OD Cancel switch...Why would one want to cancel OD LOL if Im racing I just set the limit up higher so the Torque converter doesn't lock in till I get to like 90 or 100 LOL.

You can get a shifter linkage that allows you to use the stock shifter and you will be able to manually hold the trans in 1st & 2nd but even with the hammer shifter when you shift from 2nd to 3rd the computer takes over and does the 4th gear and converter lock up, all of which you can set to where ever you like.

[Mach1 Driver 560]

I have my Baumans controller set up so that I don't have an OD Cancel switch...Why would one want to cancel OD LOL if Im racing I just set the limit up higher so the Torque converter doesn't lock in till I get to like 90 or 100 LOL.

Since its hilly around my house I will occasionally kick it out of OD to slow down instead of hitting the brakes in my daily appliancemobile, so I intend to install an OD cancel switch in the Mach too. Which Baumann controller do you have- the Quick 1 or 4?

[LindenBruce 27]

I have an AOD behind my FE with FPA tri-y headers and the headers clear the transmission without any problems.   I modded the factory TV cable brackets and it all fit nicely.  I made my own crossmember for the transmission.  Now to get the old girl running and have an exhaust system installed.  I did the transmission myself, upgraded the internals along the way, new torque convertor, and new driveline made locally.  Very nice neat install.  ALL for under 1700.00.   Check out clickclickracing.com for lots of info on the Ford AOD.  B. 

[LindenBruce 27]

Here are some of my many pics.   B.

[Mach1 Driver 560]

I see what you mean about the headers, they fit around the AOD with plenty to spare. Very nicely done- your Stang looks like it was born with that tranny.