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qtrmoon

302 Motor question

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Hi all,

 

I just picked up a '69 coupe grande project for my daughter and I. I am going to need some engine parts to get it running again and at the very good advice from a friend was told to double check that the engine is the original... It's not. I think its from the '80s loosely based on some quick searching of the block numbers (8f7 - E7TE) What I need to start with is a distributor and ignition coil. My question is, do I need to pull the intake to get the serial and verify the year or were the 302's pretty interchangable in parts back then. This is my first ford project so I will be needing all the help I can get.

 

Thanks in advance

Jeff

 

post-44588-0-28526500-1443877306.jpgpost-44588-0-60490700-1443877305.jpgpost-44588-0-75007900-1443877332.jpg

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Welcome, all 302 distributors mount the same, what you need to be careful of is the distributor gear. That year block I beleave had a roller cam originally requiring a different gear than a flat tappet cam. So you need to determine what kind of cam it has as it could be either. Probably a good idea just to pull the intake and look. Also looking at your pic your engine seems to be sitting uneven, check your engine mounts.

 

PS, nice looking project.

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The engine angle reminds me of my neighbors 65 fastback when it had the wrong motor mounts.  Something isn't right with those motor mounts.

 

If you know what to look for you can see enough through a pushrod hole to determine if it has a hydraulic roller or flat tappet cam.  If you're not certain pull the intake like Rsmach1 mentioned.  Hydraulic roller cams need a steel distributor gear.  Hydraulic flat tappet cams need a cast iron distributor gear.  If you have seen steel and cast iron distributor gears side by side, there is an obvious difference.  The steel gear has a much smoother finish.  I think 1985 was the first year for hydraulic roller cams in 302's.

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Other things to know about newer 302/5.0s.

1.) Timing with the roller cams is usually different than with the flat tappet.  Should be like 351w

2.) Balancing is probably 50oz vs 28oz.  If you replace the balancer or flywheel you need to make sure the weighting is correct.

3.) The timing indicator maybe at 10 or 11 oclock rather than 2.  This goes along with the water pump outlet and radiator.  Drivers side (newer way) vs Pass side (classic).  If you don't have good marks that match the location of the indicator you can measure the diameter of the balancer and then order timing tape from summit or Jegs MSD has a kit with most common sizes.

 

Some places the casting maybe slightly thicker too but this shouldn't cause problems. 

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the firing order of the engine might help determine what style of cam you have (as mentioned above, but the words 'firing order' weren't specified so I'm just tossing this in there).

 

Is the car an automatic or a manual transmission?  Which transmission is in it?  If it's a manual transmission, does it have the stock mechanical linkage?  If so, looking at how the z-bar attaches will also prove that it isn't an older block.  Seems that the E7 numbers are a dead giveaway though, assuming you didn't get those numbers strictly from the cylinder head.

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the firing order of the engine might help determine what style of cam you have (as mentioned above, but the words 'firing order' weren't specified so I'm just tossing this in there).

 

Is the car an automatic or a manual transmission?  Which transmission is in it?  If it's a manual transmission, does it have the stock mechanical linkage?  If so, looking at how the z-bar attaches will also prove that it isn't an older block.  Seems that the E7 numbers are a dead giveaway though, assuming you didn't get those numbers strictly from the cylinder head.

It is a manual, havent had the chance to check the numbers for ID yet on it. The E7 numbers of the motor came off the block behind the starter. Things have unfortunately been quite busy around here getting ready for winter along with the normal routine so it may be a bit before I can get back to it but when I do I'll post an update for sure

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Welcome to the forum and the Mustang Project Club.

 

The E7TE indicate the engine is probably an 87-93.

 

Roller cams started in 85, with the 85 manual transmission Mustang being the last with a carb.  The cam should be steel, requiring a steel distributor gear.  For a drop-in Ford carbureted distributor, the DuraSpark for a 1985 Mustang 5.0 is what you want.  I personally run a Mallory Unilite, but then there isn't a lot of room around my intake manifold for a larger distributor.

 

If I recall, the 302 went to the 351/HO firing order with the change to the roller cam, but firing order is entirely dependent upon the cam.  You can use an old 289/302 flat tappet cam in the engine, if you desire, though I don't recommend it.  The roller cam has much less maintenance and wear than the flat tappets.

 

What's wrong with the distributor you currently have?

 

Chuck

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