ashleesmach1 28 Report post Posted September 30, 2015 I was under the Front end on my Mach1 and was doing some small stuff when I noticed that the sway bar endlink bushings, which are urethane have cracked. Now, I put these on a while ago but I thought these bushings would last longer than rubber. The frame bushings are fine. No bid deal on replacing them but, now I want something that will be better and last longer. any suggestions? oh yeah, the bar is 1 1/8 inch Thanks! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
shaun071 62 Report post Posted September 30, 2015 There are different compounds of poly bushes. It seems the harder more plastic ones will crack. I've always used super pro brand ones without any issues. They're aussie made so might be a little hard to get in the states. Also torque the swaybar links with the weight of the car on the suspension. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ashleesmach1 28 Report post Posted September 30, 2015 got a web site, please? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
shaun071 62 Report post Posted September 30, 2015 http://www.superpro.com.au Most parts stores here sell them. I'll see if I can find some ebay links as well Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Total Control Products 24 Report post Posted September 30, 2015 Polyurethane usually has a higher durometer than most rubbers which means less compliance in the system. That makes the whole car feel more precise. It needs to be kept lubricated. Both rubber and poly bushings do not respond well to overtightening. It's like a spring -eventually it loses its ability to rebound. The same stem-and-nipple style bushing configuration is used on the top of the front shocks and both ends of the rears. This is all the tighter they should be. (Image from TCP ARFM instructions.) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ashleesmach1 28 Report post Posted September 30, 2015 Polyurethane usually has a higher durometer than most rubbers which means less compliance in the system. That makes the whole car feel more precise. It needs to be kept lubricated. Both rubber and poly bushings do not respond well to overtightening. It's like a spring -eventually it loses its ability to rebound. The same stem-and-nipple style bushing configuration is used on the top of the front shocks and both ends of the rears. This is all the tighter they should be. (Image from TCP ARFM instructions.) Thanks that's how I tighten them: the pic in the middle, and I do it with the weight of the car on the ground. The job is done.... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
