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Rear window leaking after new seal install....Grrr

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So I replaced my Mach's rear window seal recently, using butyl in the channels that grip the body and urethane in the glass (typical that I've read on here and elsewhere). I put butyl in the channel that the rope went into. After pulling the rope and window glass installed, I then filled the gap between the seal and the body (where the trim clips are) with butyl. Garden hose to the glass revealed no leaks.  Victory!....but then I remembered I needed to install the molding, and the butyl was surrounding the trim clips.  I tried installing the molding but it wouldn't grip the clips, so I took a small screwdriver and pryed the clip (as it would if molding was pressed in) and removed a small amount of butyl around the clip.  Now the darn thing leaks, and its running behind the quarter sail panels.  To me, this means water is getting through the butyl at the clip and underneath the sail panel flap and running down the backside of the sail panel. Its coming onto the package tray on both ends, meaning its not a single spot leak. It also appears to be limited to the sides, and not the top or bottom section.

 

Thoughts on fixing this?  If I pack more butyl around the clips, the molding won't likely install because the clips won't flex. Access behind the sail panels is pretty limited in order to pack butyl from that side. I'm not sure that packing butyl from the interior side of the weatherstripping flap will work, since it isn't running down the face of the sail panels.

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I don't know if putting the sealer from the inside would seal either .I always use the 3M dum dum strips in the bottom of the channel first ,i go all the way around 3 strips wide .Then i put the window with the gasket on in place and lock the gasket over the body lip.Then i use the butyl .Force the tip of the caulking tub under the rubber between the body and fill it well all the way around .It works best on a hot day to soften up the 3M strips and the butyl If you get the sealer between the lip and the rubber it will not leak .I also put the clips in before the glass goes in.

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I used some 3m product a friend recommended to me in a caulk tube that flows like silicone but never gets hard similar to butyl...have use it on a few cars and it seems to work perfectly.

I will look and see what its called but its NOT Bedding compound.

Your will have to order it online but its worth it and you should be able to squeeze it in behind the clips

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This was 3M stuff in a caulk tube, bedding and glazing compound:  http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000PF13JW/ref=pe_385040_30332190_TE_M3T1_ST1_dp_1

 

 Old thread of mine, which I finally got around to doing:  1969stang.com/forum/index.php?/topic/50692-rear-glass-install-where-to-apply-sealant  Like in that old picture, I applied bedding into the channel, put rope in, then put bedding top of channel. The flap on the sail panel wraps around the body seam (or so it appeared from install pictures I've seen), so its almost like the water is going between the sail panel flap and body. I may just pack more bedding behind the molding clip and hope for the best.

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It is possible that the sail panel is helping with the leak if water is going under the flap of vinyl .I usually cut the vinyl where it just has enough to glue to the lip .try pulling up on the rubber gasket and squirt more bedding in and make sure to cove over the edge of the vinyl .I have a dent pulling hook that works for lifting the rubber but be careful not to scratch the paint ..maybe some masking tape along the paint 

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I proceeded just like you did for my back window (3M butyl glazing compound). Butyl will settle in time in a warm environment. I did struggle to get the moldings to clip in all the way though (especially the 3 clips in top middle). When all was done, using masking tape on both sides, I added a very thin bead of urethane to fill the tiny gap between molding and body. May be you could try this? This product is super messy, sticky and needs extra care and several pairs of rubber gloves...

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