The "pink wire" again!

[po51 21]

So I'm installing a pertronix II dizzy and flame thrower coil in my 69 stang.I have a new 3 wire harness that goes from a plug with one wire to the oil sending unit, one wire to the temp sending unit and a 3rd to the coil. one wire is green and red, one white with a red stripe and the other is red with a white stripe, so where is the pink wire that I need to replace? Help!

[TheRktmn 15]

Under the dash. It goes between the firewall connector and ignition switch after the (green/red) wire.

[1969_Mach1 333]

Unfortunately for non factory tach cars the pink wire starts at the ignition switch, is about 4 to 5 feet long and ends at the connector in the engine compartment near the back of the drivers side valve cover.  It's the connector plug you are probably looking at that has the sending unit wires and original coil wire.  For factory tach cars the pink wire starts at the tachometer and ends at the same connector n the engine compartment.  Then the tach will not work unless it is retrofitted.  It's a bit of a chore to bypass the resistor wire but it has to be done.  Most people go directly to the ignition switch terminal that the resistor wire is attached to.  Don't be surprised if the resistor wire is not an obvious pink color.

 

Ford didn't make it easy.  At least you know its there.  A lot of people don't believe one is there because it's not easy to find.

 

Here is a link to CJ pony parts for a new ignition switch pigtail.  It shows the resistor wire already attached to it.

 

http://www.cjponyparts.com/scott-drake-ignition-switch-wiring-pigtail-1968-1969/p/HW3125/

[po51 21]

So would I be better buying the relay kit to just bypass the pink wire and go full 12v all the wat through the system?

[1969_Mach1 333]

You don't need a relay for the ignition system.  Simply run a new wire to the terminal on the ignition switch that has the resistor wire attached to it.  Then if you cut the resistor wire off at the ignition switch tape up the end of it.  I know it will take a couple hours but its not that complicated.  Just a little difficult.

[Max Power 74]

If you don't want to go into the dash, and MSD 6 CD box will handle the conversion for you.

[1969_Mach1 333]

The OP is using a Pertronix setup which as best I know needs 12V.  I use an MSD 6ALN which is the same as a 6AL but water and more vibration proof.  It needs one constant 12V source and one switched 12V source.  I don't know how the MSD CD box operates internally and maybe in some situations its okay with using the resistor wire as the switched power source.  A friend I worked with a long time ago at a repair shop used the power through the resistor wire as the switched source on a 67 Fairlane he bracket raced.  He had issues ranging from intermittent no spark, start and die, and weak spark.  He replaced one box, had another one repaired under warranty with no success.  All his issues stopped after he bypassed the resistor wire and had a 12V switched supply.  Plus, my instructions said nothing about resistor wires or ballast resistors being okay in the switched 12V source.

 

I am just one of those that even if it worked through the resistor wire I would wonder if its working as good as it should or will there be a long term failure.  

[TheRktmn 15]

Unfortunately for non factory tach cars the pink wire starts at the ignition switch, is about 4 to 5 feet long and ends at the connector in the engine compartment near the back of the drivers side valve cover.  It's the connector plug you are probably looking at that has the sending unit wires and original coil wire.  For factory tach cars the pink wire starts at the tachometer and ends at the same connector n the engine compartment.  Then the tach will not work unless it is retrofitted.

 

Good to know, thank you.

[Max Power 74]

The OP is using a Pertronix setup which as best I know needs 12V.  I use an MSD 6ALN which is the same as a 6AL but water and more vibration proof.  It needs one constant 12V source and one switched 12V source.  I don't know how the MSD CD box operates internally and maybe in some situations its okay with using the resistor wire as the switched power source.  A friend I worked with a long time ago at a repair shop used the power through the resistor wire as the switched source on a 67 Fairlane he bracket raced.  He had issues ranging from intermittent no spark, start and die, and weak spark.  He replaced one box, had another one repaired under warranty with no success.  All his issues stopped after he bypassed the resistor wire and had a 12V switched supply.  Plus, my instructions said nothing about resistor wires or ballast resistors being okay in the switched 12V source.

 

I am just one of those that even if it worked through the resistor wire I would wonder if its working as good as it should or will there be a long term failure.  

I am using a 6AL box and have for years. Can't remember the specifics, but since it is also connected to a direct battery source as well as an ignition source, it automatically converts the output to the coil at 12V. I vaguely remember reading that, and I have never had an issue. maybe I should check output on my own......

 

This thumbnail is also not my own. Seriously guys......

[1969_Mach1 333]

Max Power, you're correct that the MSD box completely controls the coil.  But both the constant and switched power source to the MSD box are supposed to be 12V.  Yours may work fine.  I don't know may people using MSD.  But I have seen that one situation I mentioned where the issues finally stopped after not using the resistor wire for the switched power source to for the MSD box.

[po51 21]

Sounds like I would be better off just to change out the pink wire from the ignition what size wire should i use? I want to keep things simple!

[1969_Mach1 333]

I used 16 GA. wire on mine to bypass the resistor wire.  I went from the same terminal on the ignition switch the resistor wire is attached to directly to the MSD Box.  In your case either to the + side of the coil or just beyond the other end of the resistor wire.  Just use some wire ties to hold it to the factory harness.

 

There is a tool to remove the round pin connectors from the plastic connector at the ignition switch.  NPD sells them and I'm sure parts stores like Napa would have or can get them.  One style looks like this.

 

 

 

Then unless you have a new connector terminal you'll have to open up the crimp to remove the resistor wire from the connector.  I then crimped and soldered the new wire to the terminal.  Leave the original resistor wire in the harness and if you have any bare ends of it, tape them up to be safe.

 

Somebody may have an easier to do this, but that's what I did.

[Midlife 814]

That tool is basically worthless for removing pins (ask me how I know).  I use a small jeweler's flat-head screwdriver, put one side against a grinding wheel to make one side flat, and use that to get between the pin and the housing to bend the locking tab. 

[po51 21]

Thanks for all your help, having Carpal Tunnel surgery in the morning so it will be a few weeks to a month before I will be able to tackle the project!

[1969_Mach1 333]

That tool is basically worthless for removing pins (ask me how I know).  I use a small jeweler's flat-head screwdriver, put one side against a grinding wheel to make one side flat, and use that to get between the pin and the housing to bend the locking tab. 

Yeah, your right, it doesn't fit some pins very well on these cars.  I end up using the flat blade portions of it sometimes.  I originally purchased mine for electrical work on late model GM cars, for which it works fine.  So it's what I have and I can most always get it to work.  I don't know if there is a more specific tool for these cars.

 

po51, Good luck with the surgery.  Hopefully you'll probably recover faster than you think.

[TexasEd 188]

I'll be installing a pertonix under the cap and a flamethrower in the next 2 weeks.  Thanks for the timely post.

[po51 21]

Looked at the Scott Drake ignition pigtail and saw the pink wire, one would think as common as the dizzy upgrade is that Scott Drake would make a pigtail unit with a regular wire in it!

[1969_Mach1 333]

Looked at the Scott Drake ignition pigtail and saw the pink wire, one would think as common as the dizzy upgrade is that Scott Drake would make a pigtail unit with a regular wire in it!

Good point.  That would make things easier.

[Peter Connell 0]

I have a 70 mach 1 so different ignition switch, have tach dash.

Is the column the same as non-tach dash, I say this cos it not original 

[Midlife 814]

For 1970, the ignition switch is the same regardless of tach or non-tach dash.