Epoxy primer / sealer

[Guillaume69 150]

Does this product exist in aerosol?

 

http://www.dot.ca.gov/hq/eqsc/QualityStandards/PaintCoating/PaintCoating_pdf/DuPont2910.pdf

 

Thanks for your help!

 

G

[Rsmach1 71]

Eastwood makes a 2k epoxy primer in a can, but I'm not aware of one that can be used as a sealer as well. When using an epoxy primer as a sealer it is typically thinned out to apply basically a skim coat. Here is Eastwood's 2k. http://www.eastwood.com/2k-areospray-epoxy-primer-black.html?fee=7&fep=47967&adpos=1o2&creative=61491481260&device=m&matchtype=&network=g&gclid=CLHkl6_9uMYCFUeBfgodoHMN5g

 

Edit; Rustoleum has one as well. http://www.rustoleum.com/en/Rustoleum/product-catalog/industrial-brands/high-performance/spray-paint/vk9300-system-2k-epoxy-primer-spray

[Rsmach1 71]

After looking again Eastwood says there's can be used as a sealer also.

[Guillaume69 150]

Rsmach1,

 

I have looked at Eastwood 2k before asking the question here, but didn' find any sealer in aerosol.

 

What's the difference between the product you mention above (14790Z) and this one (14149Z)

http://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-s-2k-aerospraytm-epoxy-primer-gray-black.html

 

I carefully read the products description but couldn't find where it says it can be used as a sealer.

 

Thanks for your help!

[TF69 14]

   What are you planning to use it for I could maybe help you with another product. Are you trying to use this as a sealer before basecoat? If so theres better products for that.

[Guillaume69 150]

The car is going to spend approx. 5 weeks in a container, two of which on a ship across the Atlantic. I'm looking at temporarily sealing off primed surfaces as I won't have time to paint it before the shipping date (2 weeks from now).

 

I understand that 2k high build urethane primer I used (Nason 421-19) is not protecting against corrosion, as it doesn't seal but actually has open pores.

 

 

What would you recommend?

[mustangstofear 608]

If you used any good brand of DTM primer then you wouldn't have to use the Epoxy. Your Epoxy should have been laid down first. I wouldn't recommend using n Epoxy for a sealer because it's just to thick normally.

[TF69 14]

If you used any good brand of DTM primer then you wouldn't have to use the Epoxy. Your Epoxy should have been laid down first. I wouldn't recommend using n Epoxy for a sealer because it's just to thick normally.

 

  Epoxy is an amazing sealer but your supposed to over reduce it and there is also a flash time with, meaning you need to apply basecoat within a certain time frame to have it adhere without re-sanding which defeats the purpose of usiing as sealer.

[TF69 14]

The car is going to spend approx. 5 weeks in a container, two of which on a ship across the Atlantic. I'm looking at temporarily sealing off primed surfaces as I won't have time to paint it before the shipping date (2 weeks from now).

 

I understand that 2k high build urethane primer I used (Nason 421-19) is not protecting against corrosion, as it doesn't seal but actually has open pores.

 

 

What would you recommend?

 

   So you did not apply Epoxy underneath that primer after repairing panels? You opted for an Etch primer then 2k Urethane?

 

  The issue with epoxy is that you have a recoat window before you have to sand it again which can be a pain. So if you epoxy that rear half by the time it gets there you will have alot harder work to prep again for paint then before. It will definately protect it for the trip.

 

Do you have time to block sand that primer before shipped out? Personally I hate sanding epoxy and would block primer and shoot epoxy and add coat 2k primer after leaving prep easy when it gets back and protected. Shame you cannot paint it, really with a good day or two you could. If you were closer could help you out located in South FL.

[Guillaume69 150]

Correct, etch primer then high build (2k urethane) primer. Block sanded every time between coats (180, 320, 600) and now, it is ready for 800 and paint. Except I won't have time to paint it (got a family and a house to pack!), so I need to seal it for now. Obviously, I'll have to block it again when I get there and finish the job.

 

I am actually thinking about using a coat of base paint. That should seal it and then would work as a guid coat for future blocking.

 

What do you think?

 

PS: thanks a lot for offering your help. Unfortunately, I live in NW Florida, at the western tip of the panhandle, so that's a little far...

[Guillaume69 150]

If you used any good brand of DTM primer then you wouldn't have to use the Epoxy. Your Epoxy should have been laid down first. I wouldn't recommend using n Epoxy for a sealer because it's just to thick normally.

Nason 2k urethane high build primer seems to be a very decent product from DuPont. It didn't come cheap either. And working with it was a blast. I did not have to use filler.

 

G

[Rsmach1 71]

If you just want to seal the work you've done the Eastwood epoxy I mentioned should work just fine. As mentioned above sanding some epoxy's can be a pita, some more so than others. Call Eastwood and see what they say.

[TF69 14]

Correct, etch primer then high build (2k urethane) primer. Block sanded every time between coats (180, 320, 600) and now, it is ready for 800 and paint. Except I won't have time to paint it (got a family and a house to pack!), so I need to seal it for now. Obviously, I'll have to block it again when I get there and finish the job.

 

I am actually thinking about using a coat of base paint. That should seal it and then would work as a guid coat for future blocking.

 

What do you think?

 

PS: thanks a lot for offering your help. Unfortunately, I live in NW Florida, at the western tip of the panhandle, so that's a little far...

 

 

   For basecoat your not using Dupont/Nason right?

[Guillaume69 150]

I am. Base and clear are from them as well. I have a gallon of each, so I figured I could use a little to spray a thin base layer only on the primed areas that I will block went prepping for paint.

 

I know it might sound like a waste, but I am actually running out of options.

[moodster 55]

I think I would just apply the Nason epoxy over it then sand it with 800 once you get ready to paint.  I'm using the same products as you and I generally epoxy the panels as I go since I'll expose metal in many areas upon finishing my blocking process.

 

david

[Ridge Runner 1,154]

Epoxy is hard to sand ,but if you knock the top off with 180 grit then it isn't so bad to sand .I like the Nason primer for blocking as well ,it wet sands like butter .

[Guillaume69 150]

Epoxy is hard to sand ,but if you knock the top off with 180 grit then it isn't so bad to sand .I like the Nason primer for blocking as well ,it wet sands like butter .

Yup, blocking that stuff is real nice, and using a guide coat gives excellent results.

 

At this point, I'm way past using 180, and I don't really want to risk scratching the panels and have start all over again. My last coat was basically to get rid of 600 scratches. It already has that glassy feeling...

 

Whatever product / process I use to protect the rear, it'll have to come off with 800. Lol

[TF69 14]

I am. Base and clear are from them as well. I have a gallon of each, so I figured I could use a little to spray a thin base layer only on the primed areas that I will block went prepping for paint.

 

I know it might sound like a waste, but I am actually running out of options.

 

 

  Its not a waste to use a few $$$ on basecoat to protect it.

 

  Now I asked because of Dupont/Nason being one of the only basecoats still around that they still state in spec sheet NON-SANDABLE. I worked with it for years it can be sanded but delamination problems can happen quite easily. Make sure you do not sand basecoat higher then 600 grit when you get it home overseas to repaint. It may go on well day one but you get a chip and can come off in sheets.

 

Personally I would buy a pint or quart depending how you spray of PPG Deltron basecoat to match your color, mid temp reducer and get a pint of the basecoat catalyst to help protect it this makes basecoat harder to chips but also seals it better from moisture. Once you get it home you can sand with whatever grit you like 400,600,800 and basecoat again to reflash even with your Dupont Chromabase without issue of adhesion issues.

[Ridge Runner 1,154]

  Its not a waste to use a few $$$ on basecoat to protect it.

 

  Now I asked because of Dupont/Nason being one of the only basecoats still around that they still state in spec sheet NON-SANDABLE. I worked with it for years it can be sanded but delamination problems can happen quite easily. Make sure you do not sand basecoat higher then 600 grit when you get it home overseas to repaint. It may go on well day one but you get a chip and can come off in sheets.

 

Personally I would buy a pint or quart depending how you spray of PPG Deltron basecoat to match your color, mid temp reducer and get a pint of the basecoat catalyst to help protect it this makes basecoat harder to chips but also seals it better from moisture. Once you get it home you can sand with whatever grit you like 400,600,800 and basecoat again to reflash even with your Dupont Chromabase without issue of adhesion issues.

Definitely use the catalyst ,it also acts as a binder between the paint  and the primer /sealer .Also helps the Clear bond as well .

Nason is about the only paint we can get in Cali.that is not water base now .

 

I used to use Centari strictly .When it was catalysed ,and the proper primer sealer was used ,that was a very tough and long lasting paint .Stupid EPA!!