What motor oil are people running

[MN69Grande 203]

Ok,  Looking at other forums I might be starting a war here.  Also the search feature doesn't work with 3 letter words so I could find any old posts on the subject.  But what motor oil are people running in there cars?  After my last engine crapped out I'm rethinking a lot of what I'm doing with the car.

 

I see Keith Kraft sends Driven Racing break in Oil with their crate motors.  Looking at there site and reading other information I'm thinking of using there Break in oil then switching to their Hotrod Oil.  

 

I see a lot of advertising about Royal Purple but I don't know anyone running it.

 

My mechanic and circle track racer swears by Castrol Synthetic or Mobil 1.

 

Another mechanic I worked with likes to use VR1 Valvoline Race oil.  This is what I was running before, but doing some research it seems like it's not as good as the others.  Particularly the zinc/phosphorous levels aren't as high as the others.

 

As the price point on all of these oils is $8.5-$11 I figured I'd see what everyone else is doing.

 

The new motor is 2 weeks out so I thought I'd make use of the time.

[Alan_Mac 48]

I used royal purple in my 418w for many years.  I didn't like the color or the price so I switched to Mobile 1 0W 40. Its great oil and I can buy it everywhere at a good price.   

[coz 108]

Plain old Dino oil.  I change my oil every 3-4 months so spending money on fancy oils is a waste.  Changing $11 a can oil every couple of thousand miles (at best) is silly.  Finding the right viscosity is much more important. 

 

Unless you run flat tappet or have need for the ZZDP additives - then there are several dino oils with that or you can find an additive.

[MikeStang 247]

Have always used and still use to this day... Castrol 10w30 or 10w40 after I break in with straight 30wt oil with additive.

I actually used some of that Prolong additive one time and I can say that is some good stuff right there.

 

My motor is a Hyd Roller cammed 408 using a 1995 351W block.

I have been debating on going to a Synthetic oil but just keep sticking to Castrol cuz its never let me down EVER.

[1969_Mach1 333]

I sue the Valvoline VR1 racing oil.  My 351W has a hydraulic roller cam.  My only reason for not liking full synthetics in older cars is they flow so well they don't leave much film on surfaces.  Is the OP using a flat tappet or roller lifter camshaft?

 

I tried Royal Purple once in a 1996 Mustang GT.  That was a waste of money.  The motor, even though not very old, had mechanical noises with the Royal Purple.  It's probably fine on todays new cars where a new motor has very small oil clearances.

[Brian Conway 264]

Flat tappet valve train. I use VR 1 and it gets changed once a year whether it needs it or not. Brian

[rwcstang 201]

I use Castrol, never had an issue with it, I did at one point used Royal Purple but too pricey... 

[Gomach1 12]

AMSOIL Z-ROD 10W-40, adds the zinc needed for a flat tappet cam. Just like Brian I change it once a year whether it needs it or not! So it's not a waste of money! The main thing is use a good quality full synthetic, 'dino' oils do not provide the protection or stability of a synthetic.

[fordguy69 24]

For my older engines I only use Brad Penn, the "green oil".  It is the old Kendall formula, from the former Kendall factories and wells.  Excellent Pennsylvania crude base, tons of the right stuff for older engines and it doesn't break down.  They also make a break-in oil that works fantastic on new flat tappet builds.

 

On my newer cars that don't need the ZDDP, I use the Motorcraft semi-synthetic.  Currently have 280,000 miles on my F250 5.4 with the Motorcraft oil and filters.  I has served me very well.  Just traded in a 2009 Mustang 4.6 with 120,000 that still ran like a new car, had a V6 Ranger and Explorer that I got 200,000 out of both with no engine issues.  I like to get my money's worth out of vehicles!

[Gomach1 12]

Ever notice talking oil, is a lot like talking about beer! While almost everyone will agree the best beer is a free one, we won't necessarily buy that one!

[MN69Grande 203]

Ever notice talking oil, is a lot like talking about beer! While almost everyone will agree the best beer is a free one, we won't necessarily buy that one!

Haha.  I kind of knew asking the question would get a lot of different responses.  I don't think the oil (VR1 conventional oil) led to my crate motor's failure (either a bad ring, wrist pin, or workmanship) I just want to give the replacement engine the best chance.  It is a roller setup all around.

[Crazyhorse 21]

In the 351 in the bronco I'm running chevron delo 400 oil, the same as I run in the 2 diesels.

[Raven R code 281]

Curious what the big block people are using. The last time my car was on the road in 1995, I remember using 50W racing oil. It seemed that without it, my oil used to break down quickly and loose its viscosity really fast. I also heard there are formulas for older motors and I shouldn't use off the shelf motor oil.

[sportsroof69 13]

VR1 has plenty of zinc for flat tappets. I've ran it in all my engines and that's still what I use.

[1969_Mach1 333]

 

 

Curious what the big block people are using. The last time my car was on the road in 1995, I remember using 50W racing oil. It seemed that without it, my oil used to break down quickly and loose its viscosity really fast. I also heard there are formulas for older motors and I shouldn't use off the shelf motor oil.

Wow!  That car is on the road less than mine.  50W is supposed to indicate viscosity at a high temperature.  Exactly what temp I don't know.  I've only known one other person to use straight 50W in a street car.  That was only because of large bearing clearances on an old motor.

 

VR1 has plenty of zinc for flat tappets. I've ran it in all my engines and that's still what I use.

That is exactly what I have heard.

[jholmes217 65]

Curious what the big block people are using. The last time my car was on the road in 1995, I remember using 50W racing oil. It seemed that without it, my oil used to break down quickly and loose its viscosity really fast. I also heard there are formulas for older motors and I shouldn't use off the shelf motor oil.

For break in, I'm using Joe Gibbs Driven 30 weight break in oil.  Hot Rod did a test on break in oils a couple years ago, and this had the most of the good stuff like zinc, and the fewest detergents that would get rid of the zinc so the zinc and minerals should stay on longer.  Once break in is done, I will probably use Castrol 10W30 or 40 with a bottle of ZDDP.  Hope to do break in this month.  Trying to get this 428 Cobra Jet car running on a teachers salary with military retirement with three kids, a wife, and pets has been challenging, but I'm almost there!

[RPM 1,190]

Ok,  Looking at other forums I might be starting a war here.  

Other forums and their know it all immature members is what separates this place from others!

 

I believe as long as you use a quality oil made for your application, you wont have any issues. Motor oil and car brand loyalty have a lot in common. The problem started when the higher levels zink and phosphorus were removed from motor oil and no one knew, resulting in flat tappet cam failure.

 

I use Mobil 1 for no particular reason. Valvoline says 800 ppm of zink and 730 of phosphorus is enough for a flat tappet cam. Mobile 1 has several weight options with enough zink and phosphorus.

[Brian Conway 264]

Thanks RPM for posting the letter response from Valvoline. When the producers of motor oil decided to omit the Zinc and Phosphorus for EPA reasons they indeed did it with out telling anyone. A friend read about it in Hemmings and told me about the change. Very disappointed that the producers would do that to us but they have no loyalties. Only a handfull of the producers are providing an off the shelf Zinc/Phosphorous motor oil. On the West Coast Valvoline is the only one I know of and for that they get my business. Brian

[barnett468 418]

.

the valvoline vr-1 racing oil is not really racing oil . . it is basically the same oil they used to sell as regular oil before the zddp level reduction so they simply renamed it.

 

1100 - 1200 ppm zddp ids fine . . the additional zddp does very little . . the engine uses the zddp up so the high levels like 1800 ppm etc are simply a reserve so the oil will last longer.

 

also, too much zddp is bad too.

 

royal purple xpr has around 1800 ppm of zddp plus synerlec . . if your engine makes noise with any synthetic, it is likely simply too thin.

 

 

mustang 5.0 engines commonly go over 200,000 miles using synthetic oil so there is nothing wrong with the "thickness" of synthetic oil . . in fact nascar uses synthetic and joe gibbs racing has been using mPAO not regular PAO based oil from chevron since 2012.

[MN69Grande 203]

Thanks everyone for the input!  Love the members on this site.

[fvike 173]

Joe Gibbs Driven HR1. It's a high zink oil available in both mineral and synthetic. I run the mineral 15w50 on both the Mustang and my '89 Mercedes-Benz 300SE.

[Wycked69 20]

I use Valvoline VR1

 

I've been told that Schaeffer's is an excellent oil but I have not been able to find it locally.

[TinMan 77]

I had a couple engine builders say to use Rotella T for break in. Anyone use this oil?  I'm assuming starting an engine that hasn't run since 1990 a break in... I plan on using assembly lube on the lifters and rockers...

[det0326 179]

I don't know the answer to your question but my engine is close to starting up and it is full of Rotella. I have heard the same as as you. I guess I will find out. Although in my case I have roller lifters and rockers I am not sure that it really matters.

 

Dave

[fordguy69 24]

Back when all the wiped cam lobe problems started, people were recommending Rotella T because it still had high levels of ZDDP, I think because the diesel oils were not reduced yet. 

 

But now I have read where the diesel oils have all had their ZDDP reduced too.  So you may want to research that if you have a flat tappet cam.