Evans Cooling High Performance Waterless Engine Coolant

[MN69Grande 203]

Is anyone out there running this stuff?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/evn-ec53001

 

Since we have the motor out and the coolant system is dry a mechanic I am working with suggested using this stuff.  I was wondering if anyone had experience good or bad with it.   I think I'd need 4 gallons so that with the install kit is almost $200 bucks.  Leno did a video on it and seems to think it's the way to go.

 

[moodster 55]

I plan upon using it in my car.  I like how it doesn't need an overflow bottle since the 69's didn't have one anyway.  Also the fact that it doesn't corrode the engine is a plus.

 

david

[69 red fastback 20]

I'm using it and have no problems at all, just make sure you get everything clamped down good, it's to expensive to poor it on the ground, also I bought my kit off of ebay and saved several bucks

[Rsmach1 71]

I'm using it and have no problems at all, just make sure you get everything clamped down good, it's to expensive to poor it on the ground, also I bought my kit off of ebay and saved several bucks

They say that you might notice a small increase in running temps with it, have you noticed this? I plan on using it as well.

[69 red fastback 20]

I haven't noticed it at all, it's been running pretty much normal, I'm running an aluminum radiator also and it stil looks brand new inside

[69 red fastback 20]

Also what I like about it is you never have to change it, if you have to work on something just drain it into a clean jug, and when you're done just put it back in

[barnett468 418]

.

it does not cool s effectively as other coolant, plus all it is is straight ethelene and glycol antifreeze mixed together . . you can make your own for the price of 4 gallons of regular antifreeze.

[MN69Grande 203]

Ok so I'm trying this stuff out.  Here is one thing I will tell you.  This stuff stinks.  You think regular antifreeze smells... forget about it.   It seems to be cooling the car well.  I added an overflow system to recapture and keep the radiator topped off.  One thing I don't like is that when I was playing with different t-stats and changing the temp sensor I had to be super careful to capture the stuff for re-use.  You don't have to do this but for what it costs a gallon it's a lot cheaper to reuse it.   Oh and did I mention the smell?  It stays on your hands for days and in garage for weeks.

[Rsmach1 71]

Keep us posted, Thanks

[Brian Conway 264]

Just a heads ups up - going to the track ?  All cars must have an radiator over flow capture system.  Brian

[barnett468 418]

that stuff is laughable and an absolute total waste of money . . not only is it unnecessary, you can make your own for around $40.00 . . all it is is 100% antifreeze and nothing more, nada, zero, zilch . .  i have the basic formulae on my other computer, but from fading memory, it is maybe around 90 ethylene glycol and 10% propylene glycol . the prop glycol was added to neutralize the toxic affects of the ethylene glycol so it would fit a particular certification . . the rest is a similar additive package that comes in regular anti freeze.

 

just because jay leno likes it, it dosnt mean its better.

[1969_Mach1 333]

Just a heads ups up - going to the track ?  All cars must have an radiator over flow capture system.  Brian

Not only that.  Now I haven't been to a track in a long time, since a coworker bracket raced a 67 Fairlane.  Back then you can only use water in the cooling system.  They wanted to eliminate any possibility of anti-freeze on the track.  I don't know about now, but that could be an issue. 

 

I am always skeptical about stuff like the Evans coolant.  I just stick with anti freeze and distilled water.  Change the coolant once a year whether or not it needs it and you should never have any problems. 

[Rsmach1 71]

Being old and set in my ways I tend to be skeptical as well, but, with the way technology advances nowadays I try to give new idea's a chance. Only time will tell if this stuff any good. IT'S ALL ON YOU MN69Grande!!!.....no pressure lol.

[barnett468 418]

.

its not that it isnt any good but you will never notice one iota of difference between that and regular 50/50 or just mixing 90% ethylene glycol with 10% propylene glycol antfreeze.

[MN69Grande 203]

Ok a little update.  I've been messing this the cooling system all summer.  The new motor was running a hotter than the old one over 210 at times.  347 (10.2:1 compression) vs 306.  From the beginning with the new motor I was running the Evan's on the advice of circle track racer/mechanic that put the motor in.

 

Basically once I got the timing set I was seeing 197 between 55 and 65 and slightly higher the faster I went.  The real issue was in stop and go traffic it would just slowly keep climbing on days over 80.  I have a heavy duty water pump on the car and pulley made to have the pump run faster.  So I looked at a lot of forums and thought maybe I'm moving the fluid too fast.  So I switched to an under drive pulley.  That just seemed to move all the temps up 3-4 degrees for the same driving conditions.  So then I thought maybe it was the fan so I put in a contour fan and swapped the pulley's back.  This solved the stop and go issue and dropped the average temp 3-4 degrees.  So now I'm running about 192/3 at most speeds up to 70.  

 

This isn't to bad except I have the fan controller set to 180 so it means the systems is probably at it's limit.  I don't know if that limit is partially caused by using Evans.  I did some research and there are a few stories of people running hotter in general.  Also the temperature doesn't seem to move in a linear way.  The car gets to about 170, the thermostat fully opens (it's 160) and the temp drops to 165 and then continues to climb to 181.  It seems to idle at 181 just fine and not go higher.  When I start driving, time and again, the car seems to level off for a time at different temps.  the first 20 min of driving is 188, then next 20 min 190, then finally 192/3 with a few spikes right after laying on the throttle.  This after idling until the car was fully warmed up to 180.

 

So I don't know what to think.  It's fall now the temp is generally in the 70s.  The car doesn't reach even 200 so i guess I'll need to wait until next year to further test, but I thought I'd share my experiences so far.  Honestly if it always stays below 200 I'll leave the stuff in there.  If I take it out on a 90 degree day and the temp goes higher than 200, then I'll swap to 50/50 and see if it is the system or the coolant.  I did find several places saying that the heat transfer/absorption ability of Evans was 30%+ lower than water (not sure how that compares to 50/50)

 

Oh if it makes a difference I'm running a 3 core 24 inch Bronze/copper radiator.  I don't really have any recommendations I probably wouldn't do it again just because it's another variable.  I'll revisit this post next season.  

[bryonbush 85]

well i think you answered a lot of questions people will have concerning cost vs benefits. Seems to me like it's not worth the cost by any means. it would be interesting to see what the running effects are if you drained this out and put in normal 50/50 for next summer and record the difference.

[ray1970 88]

Barnett468....... You can say it....Its just a miracle  in a can that pep boy and the rest  have a complete shelf of.

I have a pint of motor rebuild if anybody is interested? 

[Brian Conway 264]

Thanks for the shareing.  Always interesting to hear what the real world results and observations are.  Brian

[barnett468 418]

ok, this is incredibly simple . if your engine runs more than around 10 degrees hotter than the t stat rating most of the time, your cooling system is insufficient and/or your ignition timing is likely not advanced enough.

 

also, you should run at least a 180 t stat, and with a big rad and high flow pump, you should run a high quality high flow t stat like a milodon.

 

also, cars seem to have gotten along just fine for the last 200 years without this magical stuff . if it aint broke, dont try to fix it . this being said, it is good for one thing which is making your wallet a whole lot lighter which i guess can make your car just a little bit faster.

[1969_Mach1 333]

barnett468, I know you always mention the operating temps should be 10 degrees above the thermostat rating if the cooling system is sufficient.  And actually, I am thinking you are correct.  My daily driver F150 with its big radiator and big engine compartment runs just like that even on hot 112 degree days.  Another example when I was younger, a 440 in a 1972 Challenger, big engine compartment, big radiator, never had over heating issues.  My neighbor has an original 1969 Z28, big radiator, big engine compartment, never has any overheating issues. 

 

I guess what I am saying is I still believe the small engine compartment of these Mustangs contributes to high operating temps.  If air cannot easily get out of the engine compartment, air cannot flow through the radiator.  Big radiator, small radiator, if there is insufficient air flow through it, you will have over heating issues.  I see the OP installed and electric fan which seems to have helped.  It clearly moves more air and has a higher stall speed than the fan that it replaced.  Just my 2 cents.  This idea always seems to be overlooked when over heating issues occur and there is no simple fix for it.

[ray1970 88]

I have seen lots of people over the years trying to fix there over heating problem with some mystery coolant additive and this would include myself..

None have worked to date..My fix on the mustang was to just replace ALL the 40+ year old stuff with better if possible.. 

On my dirt bike I just needed to drive it differently.

I try not to forget time and technology move on..  There my be an answer down the road....Just like motor stroker in a can.

(This my need to be repeated weekly to get desired results) 

 

Just having a little fun here...

 

I do think it was very important that someone gave the coolant a shot  than wrote up a honest result good or bad.

I am more than guilty of trying something that did not work and just letting people find out for themselves ..

[MN69Grande 203]

ok, this is incredibly simple . if your engine runs more than around 10 degrees hotter than the t stat rating most of the time, your cooling system is insufficient and/or your ignition timing is likely not advanced enough.

 

also, you should run at least a 180 t stat, and with a big rad and high flow pump, you should run a high quality high flow t stat like a milodon.

 

also, cars seem to have gotten along just fine for the last 200 years without this magical stuff . if it aint broke, dont try to fix it . this being said, it is good for one thing which is making your wallet a whole lot lighter which i guess can make your car just a little bit faster.

 

The timing might be an issue.  I'm not sure how further test.  When I got the car back it was running MUCH hotter than now, in the 225 range possible higher at times.  I reset the initial timing to about 14 degrees and have played with different settings plus or minus 3 degrees, but the engine temp stays in the same range as in my post earlier today (192-194 once hot and driving around).  If from 14-15 the engine runs with a little more power and just slightly smoother, but kicks back when I shut it off.  I've been keeping it at 12/13 initial.  The mechanical advance will only give me another 19/20 degrees in it's current setup and I've got the vacuum advance disconnected.  So maybe at the top end of the curve I'm not running enough idle.  Ford Racing recommend no more than 34 degrees total advance.  So at the moment I'd be at 32/33 degrees at the top.

 

I was thinking the higher compression + headers + the bigger exhaust might just be creating more heat than the system can handle.  This is why I was thinking of first going back to 50/50 to rule in/out the fluid.  Then make decisions from there.  If the temp holds at 180 at that point I'd be good.  The fans don't come on until this point so I wouldn't expect the engine to run at 170 (10 above the thermostat which I'll change out when I do the fluid to a 170 or 180).

[1969_Mach1 333]

Higher CR will increase operating temps.  Unless you have found a way to change laws of physics.  I would think at 10.2:1 you are not going to be able increase the initial timing much more than 12 to 14 deg. BTDC.  More and it will likely ping on initial start up.  My 351W, with 10.7:1 CR cannot tolerate any more than 10 deg BTDC.  More and it will ping a little on initial start up.

 

As far as thermostats, I have found the Stewart brand high flow thermostats with the additional by pass holes work much better than the Milidon, Mr. Gasket, etc. brands.  Stewart offers them with or without the additional by pass holes.  I use the one that has three additional by pass holes in it that are each 3/16" diameter.  At least on my Mach 1 it made a big improvement.

[barnett468 418]

well yes, the heat in the engine compartment contributes a little, but as you say, there is not much one can do about it, therefore, if it runs hot, it has to be fixed by improving the cooling system and/or ignition timing

 

also, engine compartment heat build up is more of an issue at low speeds because at high speeds, even though the engine is generating a little more heat, the 50 mph air slamming into the front of the rad and blowing all around in the engine compartment takes most of it out . you can actually get a sensor and gauge pretty cheap and stick the sensor in the engine compartment and check it out.

[Max Power 74]

also, cars seem to have gotten along just fine for the last 200 years without this magical stuff . if it aint broke, dont try to fix it . this being said, it is good for one thing which is making your wallet a whole lot lighter which i guess can make your car just a little bit faster.

Not true. My 1837 Essex overheated mightily until I invested in the Evans kit.