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Another Brake Booster Thread - Midland vs Bendix

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Hi Folks,

 

I was at an All-Ford show this weekend and there were several 69/70 Mustangs. I noticed that most cars had the Bendix booster like my 69 Q code with power front discs. Some cars had the Midland booster which seems to fit a bit better with big block FE cars. The Midland boosters have a indentation near the corner of the valve cover which seems be a better fit.

 

Is the any rhyme or reason which cars got the Bendix booster and which got the Midland booster?

 

Thank you

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I explored this a bit before replaced My FORD logo service replacement booster with a Bendex #6945 booster. The most common explanation I got was; all 69-70 cars got the Bendex except the very early 69 Dearborn cars which got the Midland booster. Brian

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If you don't care about originality. Put the replacement booster from Tuff Stuff. It is the same booster that was used on the Boss429 so it will give better working space around it. I have one on my 69 conv and it works great

 

Bob

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. The most common explanation I got was; all 69-70 cars got the Bendex except the very early 69 Dearborn cars which got the Midland booster. Brian

Fyi, my January 69 San Jose 351w fmx mach 1 came with a Midland.

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My February 69 San Jose 351w fmx Mach1 came with a Bendix, looking like it's based on whatever Ford had available atm.

Anyone with a pre January San Jose 351w fmx bendix equipped car care to chime in to show the what was available theory??

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If you don't care about originality. Put the replacement booster from Tuff Stuff. It is the same booster that was used on the Boss429 so it will give better working space around it. I have one on my 69 conv and it works great

 

Bob

Hi Bob

 

I need a new booster and the 9" one has been recommended. Tuff Stuff have a 2225NB booster listed - is this the one?

 

The car is a 70 (but fitted with 69 booster/pedal so has been converted from drum) with a 302. Are there any fitment issues with this booster and do I need to buy any other parts to replace it?

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IMO it fits better than the stock one because it is more compact.

It happens to be the same one that was used on the boss429 cars.

I got the Crome one and the only problem I had was that one of the studs that do not go through the firewall was a little too long and kept the unit from fitting flush. I used a dremel to trim the stud no problem.

I contacted tuff stuff about the issue and they assured me that was abnormal and must have been an error.

 

I have been very happy with the unit. I got the booster only because I used a willwood master cylinder.

You can use the ford MC as well. The only thing I would not do is to use the GM MC that they sell with it because I think they are ugly

 

Bob

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Hi Bob

 

I need a new booster and the 9" one has been recommended. Tuff Stuff have a 2225NB booster listed - is this the one?

 

The car is a 70 (but fitted with 69 booster/pedal so has been converted from drum) with a 302. Are there any fitment issues with this booster and do I need to buy any other parts to replace it?

smh00n,

 

The brake pedals are a particularly specific part between the 69 and 70 cars, and can be confusing.  I am not the big expert, but just want to check you know how to identify the matching booster/pedal combinations, and don't mix and match.

It is often done, and the result is a broken booster and poor brakes.

 

The Tuff Stuff 2225NB is only for a 69 pedal (no matter which car it is in.)

 

You can and should carefully measure the exact distance from the pivot to the pushrod boss of YOUR brake pedal.  The 69 pedal is 5 inches.  The 70 pedal is 4.5 inches - and has a different booster to match it.  Again,  these are not interchangeable parts. 

 

Worth checking if you are shipping to Sydney.  If you did the pedal swap yourself, and know EXACTLY what you have, then disregard my advice. 

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Thanks Super. I have done that as I bought the car built and thought it was factory boosted discs. It's a Grabber Mustang and has air and steer but I guess brakes were not as important back in the winter of 69 :(

 

I have pulled the pedal out and it is 69 pedal and booster. Appears it has been converted locally to disc front using Falcon stubs, rotors and calipers. All of unknown age and model so the fun will continue. There's not a lot of difference luckily so that should not pose a problem.

 

The booster appears to have a reaction(?) valve failure as you have nothing doing when you push the pedal then bang the brakes are on. Like a switch. Brake shop I trust are confident they know the issue based on my description, so I will pull the booster/cylinder and give it to them to look at. Once that is done I will have a baseline and whether I actually need a new booster.

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Are you sure you have a power brake pedal?  The longer pedal... not the shorter manual brake pedal? 

 

The Falcon calipers are alloy and are a good upgrade to the cast iron Mustang brakes, and the same size really.  The Falcon spindle may  an improvement too, I believe they are a little shorter in overall height, and slightly shorter steering arms, but a lot depends on exactly which year Falcon spindle you have.

 

Please check this page on Mustang brake pedals and advise what you have installed.  It may be a mismatch that has damaged the booster, and giving you problems, or simply a manual pedal attached to the booster - this causes 'grabbing' similar to your description.    It also may be a local Australian Ford part stuck in there.  Worth checking while you can.

 

http://www.mustangsteve.com/fyi_brakepedals/msFAQbrakepedals.html

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Def a power brake 69 pedal. We still have inch rulers here and mine shows 5". Mustang Steve shows 2" on the manual pedal which would be a bloody hard difference to stuff up I think.

 

Falcon spindles in the later cars (approx '75 on) are longer in height (approx 3/8" I am told) and the long wheel base cars used the shorter arms. A sedan is the same length steering arm as Mustang.

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Good.  That takes care of the pedal issue.

 

Just a thought on the long wheel base car spindles - that would be a nice easy way to get some faster steering ratio without changing anything else. 

 

Hopefully the booster is the only fault in your system.  Please post the result of the shop inspection.

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smh00n,

 

The brake pedals are a particularly specific part between the 69 and 70 cars, and can be confusing.  I am not the big expert, but just want to check you know how to identify the matching booster/pedal combinations, and don't mix and match.

It is often done, and the result is a broken booster and poor brakes.

 

The Tuff Stuff 2225NB is only for a 69 pedal (no matter which car it is in.)

 

You can and should carefully measure the exact distance from the pivot to the pushrod boss of YOUR brake pedal.  The 69 pedal is 5 inches.  The 70 pedal is 4.5 inches - and has a different booster to match it.  Again,  these are not interchangeable parts. 

 

Worth checking if you are shipping to Sydney.  If you did the pedal swap yourself, and know EXACTLY what you have, then disregard my advice. 

Bob,

 

I am thinking about doing this exact setup on my 69 Mach 1. My mach already has power breaks, front single piston disk and rear drum, with a bendix booster and factory style MC. I am installing wilwood 4 piston front next weekend, and would like to upgrade to the wilwood MC and proportioning valve. I will need the 10lb residual pressure valve between the MC and proportioning valve too. Do you or anyone know how much vacuum is required with these 9" boosters? Funny thing is CJPony parts says that these wilwood MC are manual only and not for power, but Wilwood says they are for both.

http://www.cjponyparts.com/wilwood-master-cylinder-kit-tandem-aluminum-black-with-7-8-bore-1965-1973/p/BMC50/

What wilwwod MC did you get? 7/8" bore?  Also, am I missing anything? Can I PM or email you for additional advice?

 

Sean

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