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shaker with edelbrock rpm manifold

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Hi all, I have just purchased a shaker which is a aftermarket fiberglass assembly apparently for a big block.

I have a 351W with the edelbrock RPM manifold which does sit higher than the stock manifold and I was told the big block shaker assembly sits 1/2" lower than the small block and should fit.

I have attempted to fit the assembly today and it sits still just over 1/2" to high and will not fit under the hood by approx 1/4".

Am I missing something or have I been supplied the wrong assembly???

Any advice would be very appreciated.

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Stock engine mounts, hood won't close without damaging something.

I took the assembly over to a friends last night and sat it on his 70 with the same engine manifold combination and mine sits a 1/4" higher than his and that already sits nearly 1/2" higher than it should but his is original to the car. I have the feeling mine is not a big block assembly and being aftermarket fiberglass assembly is slightly higher.

Any suggestions would be great.

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try taking the seal off and seeing if the hood will close and how the shaker sits.  if things look even and it's not sitting up too far, then put the seal on and see if you can get the hood to close slowly.  maybe with time the seal will break in a little bit.

 

I've seen countless shaker cars with the shaker poking out way to far with some even bowing/lifting the hood up in the back.

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Even my shaker sits too high right now. I have a 351w with stock motor mounts and an performer manifold. It's not pushing up the hood but not by much. My engine is as low as possible without the fan hitting the shroud and radiator lines.

 

I'm definitely curious what you end up doing to bring yours down.

 

Edit: Here is a picture of what mine looks like... I'm thinking this is higher than normal?

 

5D18AE08-78C7-4240-9AB3-5E5BF8DF5082_zps

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Edit: Here is a picture of what mine looks like... I'm thinking this is higher than normal?

 

 

 take a look at this original shaker car...

 

http://www.mustangandfords.com/featured-vehicles/mump-0510-ford-mustang-cobra-jet-mach1/photo-gallery/#3

 

http://www.mustangandfords.com/featured-vehicles/mump-0510-ford-mustang-cobra-jet-mach1/photo-gallery/#11

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Yeah, I just went back outside and measured... in order for me to get mine that low I would need to find another inch almost all around.  My only option I think at this point is a new tub or somehow modifying the one I have now (which is fiberglass)

 

-Mike

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What I have done today is sand down the base where it meets the Carby. Used a holesaw through the base where the needle and seat adjustments are on the carby. I still could not close my hood (Original style with the Mach ! scoop) which only had the base, air cleaner and top plate fitted but I had found it was hitting on a section that would be cut out on the new hood.

The new hood has now had the hole cut in it with the trim ring sitting in place, We have fitted the hood for trial fitting with out the hood seal and scoop but looks like I have room for it now to fit comfortably.

The body shop will now call me when they have the hood fitted and all gapped  and following the tops of the fenders correctly and I will then fit the seal and scoop to the top plate so that it aligns with the new hood correctly. Once I am all happy with how everything fits I will fibreglass over where the holes are in the base to suit its final  seating position and also epoxy resin where I have sanded the fibreglass, I will get some photos up once the new hood is all painted and it all back together..

This is my stang Pre the rear louvre and the wife dropping a trophy across the hood, hence the new hood and decision to go shaker route.

69Mustang_zps6bd7152c.jpg

Screenshot_2015-03-27-21-23-29.png

 

 

 

 

And a couple as it was up until just over a week ago

 

Olympic6.jpg

20140417_102529_3.jpg

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Thanks for the compliment Rsmach!,

A few photos of works in progress so you can see how I managed to get it to fit and if you look at all the photos you can see I was limited on room everywhere.

20150520_132121.jpg

20150520_132157.jpg

20150520_132210.jpg

20150520_132231.jpg

20150520_132246.jpg

20150520_132312.jpg

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You can see in these photos where I have used the hole saw so that the needle and seats for the carby come through the base, otherwise the whole assembly would of sat another 1/2" and then some higher

 

 

 

20150520_132551.jpg

20150520_132603.jpg

20150520_132610.jpg

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I had the same problem when I stroked my Cleveland.  I was lucky that I could close the hood but the scoop was sitting too high.  Mine looks like MichaelJames picture.  Since I wasn't looking for originality I cut up the base a bit to get a better fit.

 

Now that I'm going with a new engine and even taller intake I think I will have to bypass the shaker base altogether.  I plan to mount the scoop to the hood so it looks like a shaker car from outside but inside I will run a "normal" air cleaner of some type.  I was thinking about going all out and get an 8 stack injected setup but I doubt that the stack would fit into the shaker scoop.

 

I do plan to mount the scoop to the hood with rubber mounts so there will still be some "shaking" at stop lights. 

 

Also plan to run the Ron Morris adjustable engine mounts to see if I can get some slack out of them.

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I had the same problem when I stroked my Cleveland.  I was lucky that I could close the hood but the scoop was sitting too high.  Mine looks like MichaelJames picture.  Since I wasn't looking for originality I cut up the base a bit to get a better fit.

 

Now that I'm going with a new engine and even taller intake I think I will have to bypass the shaker base altogether.  I plan to mount the scoop to the hood so it looks like a shaker car from outside but inside I will run a "normal" air cleaner of some type.  I was thinking about going all out and get an 8 stack injected setup but I doubt that the stack would fit into the shaker scoop.

 

I do plan to mount the scoop to the hood with rubber mounts so there will still be some "shaking" at stop lights. 

 

Also plan to run the Ron Morris adjustable engine mounts to see if I can get some slack out of them.

I originally had a 1" spacer under the carby and I had thought about putting a 2" reverse cowl and then have the shaker come up through that but my plan right from the start were to keep the engine (and the rest of the car except for the wheels which are just a little larger than original magnums) looking like the factory built it that way so the average person could not tell it has been modified.

There is still more I want to change in the engine bay but it is always changing, started out with it's original 302W then in went a 347W (long story but basically split the block in half) and now has a 408W which I still want to improve on, and I has only been on the road for 18 months out of the nearly 9 years that I have been building it.

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I too had issues fitting my shaker. I have a Weiand Stealth and needed the scoop lowered by about 3/4". I decided to build the Ron Morris lowered motor mounts, but the oil pan hit the engine crossmember. So I built a crossmember with better bends which allowed the engine to be lowered. I'll have to check the radiator hose and trans lines clearance as I hadn't thought of that being an issue.

 

IMG_20150317_195029_zpsv2lbukaq.jpg

 

IMG_20130909_113334_zpsc8ed0e8b.jpg

 

IMG_20130907_120039_zpsdbd22d14.jpg

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Does anyone know if it's possible to buy just the shaker base/tub for a big block car? I am pretty sure I have the small block shaker assembly (I bought it from a guy who never used it) and I need the big block version to get my shaker lowered.

 

I figured I would try that route before modifying my existing fiberglass tub.

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Looks like I am going to just have to modify my existing base. Nobody that I can find offers just the base alone... even though they sell practically every other part by itself.  Scott Drake and CJ Pony Parts both told me they would not sell it stand alone.  No way I'm paying $450+ just for a fiberglass base.

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For whats it worth, 351C, RPM Air Gap, 1/2' spacer, hypo 2.25" air cleaner element, Summit 750 VS carb and Stock motor mounts.

 

Just replaced mid plate with flat piece of sheet metal.  I tried it it works, didn't cut up anything and it all fits, could eliminate 1/2' spacer but feel I need it to direct airflow (4 hole spacer) and shaker would be below the ring.

 

Shaker just about touches air cleaner lid, in the future considering K&N pleated typepost-38071-0-19460700-1432682220.jpg lid to increase air flow

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

post-38071-0-37627200-1432680725.jpgpost-38071-0-39034400-1432680744.jpgpost-38071-0-11664100-1432680834.jpgpost-38071-0-11664100-1432680834.jpg

post-38071-0-67237200-1432680814.jpg

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I am not sure I would want to use a piece a sheet metal in place of the mid plate, but I suppose that's always an option.

 

I have been in contact Scott Drake and they have been helpful and may be able to special order me just the base. Apparently the 351w require the assembly for big blocks not just when a higher intake or carb is used. I'm now not fully sure which base I have. Does anyone have the measurements for the small vs big block bases?

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I don't think the measurements on the boss 302 site would include the midplate/spacer.  I would say your base measures around 4.5".   That's just my interpretation.

 

the important dimensions for people would probably be in reference to the carb mounting surface.  good luck getting that info though...

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I don't think the measurements on the boss 302 site would include the midplate/spacer. I would say your base measures around 4.5". That's just my interpretation.

 

the important dimensions for people would probably be in reference to the carb mounting surface. good luck getting that info though...

Yeah you are right on my base measurement.. It was between 4.25 and 4.5 depending in where I measured. Of course that doesn't match anything on the Boss site.

 

What I really need to know is which version of the repro assembly I have--the taller or shorter one.

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