Rsmach1 71 Report post Posted May 13, 2015 As far as cam choices, there are plenty of sound clips on YouTube, simply search, 351w followed by the cam. A hydraulic roller cam would be the best choice, but you can get away with a flat tappet hydraulic also. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LiLMike 42 Report post Posted May 13, 2015 Personally I'd plan the entire drivetrain first so it all works together. Nothing is worse to drive than a cammy engine with highway gears and stock stall. I'm setting the rear up first with a trutrac and lower gears and driving with a stock 302/C4 until I get my 351C/AOD combo built up. Is there any reason you're going for the 408 rather than a 351? If I understand it right you want something that sounds mean and can lay a little rubber- a well built 351 will do the same thing without the complication of a stroker. Just my 2 cents. I just thought the stroker would get me closer to what I am looking for. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Max Power 74 Report post Posted May 13, 2015 i matched up the parts for you including compression . . i posted the exact parts to buy with links and part numbers . . i posted the prices, that's what they cost . . there is no cheaper deal. you need 3.40 gears with that set up and around a 2200 rpm stall converter if you want to roast the tires . . you could get away with 3.23. the carb you can use is a quick fuel ss750vsf. more power could be had with more money and afr 195 heads and a roller cam. . Unless he gets rid of the FMX, he will probably struggle finding much of any flexibility in stall speeds. When I built mine, 1500 and 1800 were my choices, and this was ten years ago. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rsmach1 71 Report post Posted May 13, 2015 Summit sells Hughes converters for the FMX, 2000 and 2500 stall. They also sell Boss Hog, but haven't heard alot of positive reviews on that brand. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Glenn83 19 Report post Posted May 13, 2015 When it comes to converters i recommend getting one built for your car not one off the shelf, ive got a couple of really good ones from this guy www.ultimateconverter.com Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rsmach1 71 Report post Posted May 13, 2015 Always great to find products that people have experience using, yet another site to add to my bookmarks. Thanks Glenn83 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Max Power 74 Report post Posted May 13, 2015 Summit sells Hughes converters for the FMX, 2000 and 2500 stall. They also sell Boss Hog, but haven't heard alot of positive reviews on that brand. Good to know, wish they had them when I built mine. I am pretty convinced that I want to go 5 speed at this point. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rsmach1 71 Report post Posted May 13, 2015 Good to know, wish they had them when I built mine. I am pretty convinced that I want to go 5 speed at this point. I hear you, unfortunately my budget has me locked into keeping the ol FMX for now. But there will be a TKO 600 going in at some point in the future. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LiLMike 42 Report post Posted May 13, 2015 This is the transmission guy I have been looking at. Haven't called him but this guy I met a few years ago got one from him for his 66 Fairlane and he swears by this guy. http://www.broaderperformance.com/ Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Glenn83 19 Report post Posted May 14, 2015 This is the transmission guy I have been looking at. Haven't called him but this guy I met a few years ago got one from him for his 66 Fairlane and he swears by this guy. http://www.broaderperformance.com/ I used his parts in the last C4 i rebuilt, pretty good stuff and reasonably well priced, but i found there communication was hopeless which i find very frustrating. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LiLMike 42 Report post Posted May 14, 2015 Well, I'm at a loss. It seems like the parts alone for the 408 come to about $6200 and that is without a roller cam. I have seen crate engines, long blocks and short blocks advertised all over the internet and at different prices. I thought I would save money by using my block but if I go another direction then I would have my old engine parts left over. My aluminum heads and intake manifold are still in great shape. So is my Edlebrock carb. My FMX is in perfect condition so now I'm confused as to what to do. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rsmach1 71 Report post Posted May 14, 2015 Just build a 400+hp 351w. You can have that lopey idle, and tire smoking power while using the stock crank and rods. Have the rods shot peened, install some ARP bolts, and have the assy balanced. Edit; Check out http://www.fordstrokers.com/fordstrokers-liberator-short-blocks/408-418-427-liberator-shortblock.html Talk to Woody Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
shaun071 62 Report post Posted May 14, 2015 If your 351 is running well, maybe look at modding your drivetrain to better use the power you already have. I had a mild 351C with a stock C4 and 2.75 rear. Just changing to a 2500 stall convertor and a 3.25 LSD rear completely changed the way the car drove. It was MUCH more responsive and fun to drive. Fry tires almost at will. That same 351C will be going into my coupe after a freshen up hooked up to 2500 stall AOD and 3.5 gears. I know big cubes and HP are nice to have but if it isn't in your budget to do the 408, work with what you've got and make it work better. I looked at stroking my 351C but cost killed that idea, especially here in Aus where you pay around $2500 just for the stroker kit. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rsmach1 71 Report post Posted May 14, 2015 Lilmike, sent you a pm. Well I tried to anyway, lol Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LiLMike 42 Report post Posted May 14, 2015 Lilmike, sent you a pm. Well I tried to anyway, lol LOL....No PM recieved...sorry RSMach1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rsmach1 71 Report post Posted May 14, 2015 Says you can't receive pm's lol Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LiLMike 42 Report post Posted May 14, 2015 Says you can't receive pm's lol Sorry....Didn't know my inbox was full. All clear now....LOL Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rsmach1 71 Report post Posted May 14, 2015 Just sent, ck now LOL not my pics Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LiLMike 42 Report post Posted May 14, 2015 Just sent, ck now LOL not my pics Got it...Thanks. I know I had someone elses pics attached to a post also. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LiLMike 42 Report post Posted May 14, 2015 I have a question, wouldn't it be just as cost effective to build a 408 stroker than to build a high HP 351w. Seems to me if I tear it down, get work done on the crank and block, put in new parts I might as well spend a few extra dollars and do the 408, or am I missing something here? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rsmach1 71 Report post Posted May 14, 2015 Even if you do the budget stroker it will still be quite a bit more than redoing your 351w. Buying the crank and rods will be much more than machining what you have. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
barnett468 418 Report post Posted May 14, 2015 I have a question, wouldn't it be just as cost effective to build a 408 stroker than to build a high HP 351w. Seems to me if I tear it down, get work done on the crank and block, put in new parts I might as well spend a few extra dollars and do the 408, or am I missing something here? if you dont have to resize the new stroker rods or crank, it costs around $700.00 more to build a moderate power stroker. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LiLMike 42 Report post Posted May 14, 2015 if you dont have to resize the new stroker rods or crank, it costs around $700.00 more to build a moderate power stroker. How would I know if the new rods or crank would need resizing? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
barnett468 418 Report post Posted May 14, 2015 How would I know if the new rods or crank would need resizing? you will have to take them to a shop and have them measure them . . they rarely need resizing these days but it does still happen. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LiLMike 42 Report post Posted May 15, 2015 I guess there is a lot I don't know. I'm so thankfull to have access to this site so I can gain knowledge from all you guys. Thanks again. Mike Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
