body work

[motorhead91 12]

Hey guys. So stripped down my car and where the factory lead seam from the quarter meets the roof. I was wondering should i melt down the lead and fill it with dyna glass? Or can i go over the existing lead seam with mud? Any advice would be great

[magician 13]

I would epoxy prime it then filler work..if you remove it be patient. Don't heat warp the metal around if.

[Rsmach1 71]

I wouldn't mess with melting the lead, as stated epoxy primer and mud it.

[motorhead91 12]

Ok thanks guys. Also since its down to bare metal. Should i epoxy primer the whole car before doing any body work?

[Rsmach1 71]

Yes definitely. As long as your done with any metal reshaping.

[motorhead91 12]

Thanks this is a big help. So any expoxy primer you recommend? And how many coats if reasonable?

[Rsmach1 71]

[url="http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com Check them out. Heard nothing but good about them.

[Rsmach1 71]

http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/#!perfect-paint-job/c1go8

[1969_Mach1 333]

I'm not a body and paint expert by any means and I am by no means at the level some members here are.  When I was younger my brothers and I did our own body and paint work.  We had a friend that was a painter and owned a small shop.  He used to give us help and basically teach us what to do.  This was back in the 1980's.  Anyway, it was the norm that body fillers were always applied directly to bare metal that had been prepped with 36 grit sandpaper.  Body fillers were never applied over paints, primers, or sealers of any type.  So, he can prime now to prevent rust but needs to sand off the primer in body filler areas.  Or has that changed with todays materials? 

[magician 13]

Big debate over filler under or over epoxy...either way works...do as the tech sheet says for your brand.....

[Rsmach1 71]

Alot has changed since the 80's, as magician stated, go by the tech sheet, and talk to the manufacturer. Personally when dealing with a car in bare metal, I like epoxy down 1st. Check the 2nd link I posted.

[motorhead91 12]

Thanks this was a big help. Really appreciate the advice

[Rsmach1 71]

Yw, keep us posted on your project.

[Ridge Runner 1,112]

I do body work both bare metal and over epoxy ,sand the epoxy first ,although i do not use bondo very often .The new bondo bonds well to either just keep it thin .The thicker it is the easier it will later crack .Massage the metal as smooth as you can first .

[Rsanter 152]

I think it depends on the condition of the lead seam. I have seen several mustangs where the factory screwed up the lead seam and the lead area was rusting or bubbling. Likly from not getting all the acid flux burned off or something. Anyway. If the lead seam is in good shape then leave it alone. If the lead seam is in bad shape then melt it out and I used to just mig weld in a filler strip and then go bonds over that

 

Bob

[motorhead91 12]

Thanks guys huge help. The lead seam is in good shape the whire wheel scuffed it up a bit. But nothing major.

[mustangstofear 608]

For the 67-68 that we do a lot of we make patch panels. We remove all the lead and weld the patch panels in, then a thin coat of Fibertech by Evercoat, followed by a coat of Quamtium by Evercoat.

 

http://www.mustangstofear.com/page.php?page=parts_catalog&yr=67-68&cat=sheet_metal&scat=patch_panels∏=quarter_to_roof_patch_panels