Mach_1 18 Report post Posted June 14, 2016 Well thought I would post an update. Life has been NUTS the last couple of months...we are now living in Highland, CA (near Redlands / San Bernardino) and the car is here too. Before we moved from Colorado I was able to get it idling better (played with the fast idle, and mixture screw settings) and took it for a good 50 mile break-in drive with LOTS of accel and deceleration in gear to seat the rings. NO MORE smoke :)- the thing runs strong! I now need to re-jet the carb for the new elevation (went from 7,000ft to about 1,300) and play with the electric choke a little more. If anyone lives in the Inland Empire area and either knows carbs or can recommend a shop that isn't too far of a drive I would LOVE to have someone come and dial in the car since I'm still well under the learning curve when it comes to carb setups. We took the car to the local Redlands Optimist Car Show a couple of weeks ago and it won Best Mustang so I was pretty thrilled about that- just have to get it running a little better. It wants to die when still warming up so I have to figure out why it isn't getting enough fuel when cool, and idle could still use a little work as well but it's close. I'll get some pictures coming shortly. The big news is: I finally pulled the trigger on a set of 17x8 & 17x9 American Racing AR500s with a matching set of 255/40/17 front Hankook Ventus V12s and 275/40/17 Toyo Drag Radials for the rear as traction is already proving a bit of a problem :). Pictures to come once the 2 piece wheels arrive (can be 3-5 weeks for production and shipping). Thank you Rcode for the great break in advice- it was very helpful! If anyone is around the Redlands, CA area I'd love to meet up! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mustang1216688 10 Report post Posted June 14, 2016 Welcome to the IE (Inland empire) I been following your progress and others for years I live in N. San Bernardino by cal state University SB welcome to the area love To see your car someday Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ash 145 Report post Posted June 15, 2016 Must be such a good feeling to not only get the car back on the road and enjoying it but to get some outside appreciation for your efforts as well by winning Best Mustang. Well done!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mach_1 18 Report post Posted June 15, 2016 Mustang1216688- Thanks for the warm welcome and it's good to be here. So far we are really enjoying our time here and it seems like a really nice area. Do you know of any active mustang / classic Mustang groups in the area? If you ever want to see the car please feel free to contact me on here any time and we can meet up- or if you plan on attending any nearby events! Thanks Ash! I was pretty surprised as there were some really nice cars at the show so I felt pretty honored to be considered with them. I'm really loving having the car back on the road- just need to dial in the driveability now. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted June 16, 2016 You're the exception Mach 1 as Colorado is adding more Californians than they're losing. As you probably know, Denver's housing costs is stupid high. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mach_1 18 Report post Posted June 16, 2016 Ha Bob- that's funny (and sadly quite true). I've been told that by quite a few folks since moving out here...we are just doing our part to balance it out. Even in SW Colorado where we moved from there were a LOT of Californians moving into the area, and have been for some time. Our real estate market was on the rise but nothing compared to the insanity that the front range is experiencing! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mach_1 18 Report post Posted June 16, 2016 New tires have arrived :) Should help with the new-found traction issues. Now just have to wait for the 2pc AR500 wheels to come in Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mach_1 18 Report post Posted June 16, 2016 Spent some time adjusting the floats, fast idle and choke and she seems to be running and idling better (still a little rough when cold though). Minor surging / lurching in gears so I still need to richen her up a bit and jet up a couple of sizes but she is getting there! https://video.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t42.1790-2/13465698_798081806995825_780521649_n.mp4?efg=eyJybHIiOjU3NCwicmxhIjo1MTIsInZlbmNvZGVfdGFnIjoic3ZlX3NkIn0%3D&rl=574&vabr=319&oh=61dc0a30d6fc820e2a851a2066a8de3d&oe=5762DF2E Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mach_1 18 Report post Posted July 7, 2016 Okay 1969stangers... I need some ideas here. I changed out the break-in oil 10 days ago, and took the car to another show after the change last Friday. About 20 minutes into the (hot) drive- a knock started. It was loudest at idle but could also be heard with revs (see attached vid for in-car clip). Got to the show, parked, tried to forget about it, and 3 hours later went to go home and...like magic...no knock. No knock all the way home. I got the car tuned yesterday at Westech Performance (picked up just today) and on the drive there it was fine until I was about 10 minutes out (20+ min into the drive down I10) and the knock came back. Of COURSE it went away as I pulled into the parking lot. During the tuning session even at operating temp they didn't hear anything. Again- on the drive home today about 25 min into the drive the knock came back. It "sounds" like a lifter or rocker arm but I have NO idea as to why it would take so long for it to arise when driving? I'm going to pop the hood and look around tonight to see if it's not something obvious (air filter nut had come loose on the drive to westech so it was rattling- I was hoping that was the culprit). But the sound appears to be RPM dependent and only on one lifter, rocker, or cylinder. Has anyone encountered this before? Wondering if I have one lazy hydraulic lifter in the new motor? Video of the knock (haven't been able to get one at idle from under the hood yet): http://vid38.photobucket.com/albums/e102/Machofmanhattan/20160701_172546%201_zpsaiuwkqwp.mp4 On the bright side, the car made 420 / 473 at the wheels in street trim, and 440/500 with the air filter removed (the 1" K&N is definitely a choke-point). Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted July 8, 2016 That's good power and torque! I sure like the tread pattern, what brand, model and size are they? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mach_1 18 Report post Posted July 8, 2016 Hey Bob- Thanks for the kind words! The new rear drag radials are 275/40/17 Toyo Proxes TQ. Looking forward to getting the new wheels so I can mount these things and get some traction in 1st and 2nd :). Really need to find out what is causing this knock though- First up is an oil change and check over the exhaust for leaks- then the valve covers come off :(.... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mach_1 18 Report post Posted July 8, 2016 Ugghh... After about 20 minutes of driving...it show's it's ugly loud face. http://vid38.photobucket.com/albums/e102/Machofmanhattan/Mobile%20Uploads/20160707_192510_zpswpvod86d.mp4 http://vid38.photobucket.com/albums/e102/Machofmanhattan/Mobile%20Uploads/20160707_192223_zpsclkkykcp.mp4 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SWPruett 83 Report post Posted July 9, 2016 It tough to tell from the videos, but what I hear doesn't sound like a lifter to me. Sounds like something heavier in the bottom end. Have you cut the oil filter apart and inspected the filter paper and the oil in the bottom of the can for debris? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rcodenewf 44 Report post Posted July 11, 2016 Fuel pump?? Take a length of hose and listen to the pump through that. If that isn't it, pick up the idle to where you can hear the noise and then remove/replace one spark plug wire at a time and see if the sound goes away or changes in intensity ...at least that way you can possibly isolate it to one particular cylinder. I'm assuming oil pressure is good? Keep us posted ....John Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mach_1 18 Report post Posted July 11, 2016 Thanks for the ideas everyone. After talking to the engine builder he was a little stumped since it's intermittent and takes quite a long while to start up on a drive. He gave me the okay to experiment with a 20w50 oil (typically uses 10w30). After changing out the oil yesterday and taking it for a 25 minute spirited drive there was no knock / tick with the 20w50 and new Wix filter. I have a filter cutter coming from Amazon which should be here today or tomorrow and will be cutting open the last 2 filters just to be safe. Wonder if the 10w30 was just getting too hot / thin and maybe I have one lazy lifter that didn't like that? To me the sound certainly sounded like a knock as well and had / has me scared about the bottom end but I would think that a knock from a rod bearing would be there all the time- not just when super hot, and would get a lot worse (and not marginally better) with rpm. If it comes back the next thing to try will be the spark plug elimination :/ . Keeping fingers crossed- Maybe I'll just be using 10w30 in the winter, and 20w50 in the summer down here in hot Southern California. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rcodenewf 44 Report post Posted July 12, 2016 Keep us posted for sure. John Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mach_1 18 Report post Posted August 10, 2016 Not much of an updated but I did get under the car to look for any obvious culprits and found that a retaining screw had come out of the bellhousing / shield and the shield is now rattling loose- likely coming into contact with one of the header primaries. Might be some of clatter I have been hearing but who knows. I started her up and got it up to idle temp in the garage to work on idle mixture and no noise was present once warm. I probably have one lazy lifter somewhere that will need replacement eventually. Hoping that some clearancing of the shield / housing and header primary might stop the noise as well. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mach_1 18 Report post Posted August 10, 2016 In more exciting news- I received the 17x8 / 17x9 AR500s from American Racing and had the tires mounted up. Just installed and ended up lowering the front an additional .50" but really can't go lower on account of minimal header clearance. Really liking it so far! The wheels (albeit heavy) are very nice quality. 1 SWPruett reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted August 11, 2016 That's a real real nice tire and wheel combo! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mach_1 18 Report post Posted August 11, 2016 Thanks Bob! I figure if it's going to sit a while...might as well look good doing it right? lol Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ash 145 Report post Posted August 11, 2016 17's seem to be the best balance for filling the wheel arch. Still some tyre wall there, it looks good! How did the ride change, much at all? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mach_1 18 Report post Posted August 16, 2016 I agree Ash- I considered 18s but thought they just looked a little too big in the wheel archs on these cars, and 16s didn't seem like a big enough difference from the 15s that were already on the car to justify the cost. I hope to take it for a spin tomorrow evening after work- I'm guessing it will handle a lot better...but probably also a little harsher ride as well without all of that old sidewall it used to have. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted August 16, 2016 Ya just might want to check tire sellection before choosing the wheel. I was set on 17's for the same reasons amd also to fit the 13" front rotors till I started looking for tires. Not a lot out there for the 17's. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Patriotgamez 14 Report post Posted September 4, 2016 That looks like one of those explosionproof bell housings, you will void the certification on it if you modify it. Consider dimpling the primary. If your not gonna race or don't care about bellhousing integrity then do whatever. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
