ray1970 88 Report post Posted February 11, 2016 There is a definite learning curve to this wood thing... 1. 212 deg. is what's call for when steaming wood.. Had to insulate the box to get the temp that high. 2. Don't rush it. You will just waste wood and time. 3. Pre wetting the wood over night helps a lot. 4. Let the wood dry...Your perfect fit will not be so perfect after the wood has dried. 5. Get good clamps and lots of them. 6. Hide what your doing...It takes longer to explain to people what your doing than it does to do it.... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ray1970 88 Report post Posted February 14, 2016 Update. Things are moving forwards slowly as I learn the way of the wood and trying to do things differently. 1. You can bake the wood if the box temp.get to high and you heat it to long..At this point its more like glass than wood. 2. Removed insolation from the box this got it back down to just under 200 Deg. Was going up to 230. I think that my have been to hot? 3. Water content of the wood is a big deal..I was informed that wood I had was Kiln dried and most likely had only 12-14% and my have to wet it for up to a week to bend the thicker parts. 4. Imperfections in the wood...Even the smallest bad spot can stop you in your tracks.. 5. Added a spacer to the jig to make clamping easer. 6. Trying to grove the first inner and outer bands to mold around the wheel..THIS has been challenging. Bending thin strips has been easy.. The thicker ones with a grove not so much... 7. CLAMPS... Have not found any that I have been happy with when your in a hurry.. 8. Steaming the wood as your bending it helps a lot. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ray1970 88 Report post Posted February 19, 2016 update Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Shep69 149 Report post Posted February 19, 2016 Nice work Ray . Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SA69mach 39 Report post Posted February 19, 2016 super job. well done. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike65 475 Report post Posted February 19, 2016 SA69mach, Can this be done to a stock steering wheel, or is the spokes & the frame of the steering wheel specific to the rim blow wheel?. Mike. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SA69mach 39 Report post Posted February 19, 2016 Hi Mike65. This method can be used on any steering wheel. I guess you are referring to the two spoke wheel? Once you cut away the plastic grip and a bit of the plastic down the spoke (1 or 2 inches), the metal grip frame is exposed. Assuming you want to make a smaller wheel, -Cut the metal hoop off at the spokes, then resize it, then weld it back on the spokes. Trim the excess spoke metal, and then go for it with the laminated timber. It is actually a lot less work with a non-rimblow wheel. No cutting of the groove for the horn strip, and the fake metal strip around the outside of the grip. So, hours of work saved right there. My second wheel I deleted both of those items anyway. And that's what I am driving with right now. Love the size, love the center horn button, and love the look. Drives better too. Let me know if you need any help. 1 Mike65 reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ray1970 88 Report post Posted February 19, 2016 Laying out the finger groves. Using the same spacing and depth as the stock wheel. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SA69mach 39 Report post Posted February 19, 2016 Looking good Ray. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ray1970 88 Report post Posted February 19, 2016 I can see why venders get big money for restoring steering wheels... Its not hard to do but it all takes a bit of time.. Its been fun and I have learned a lot. If I was to do a second one it would take half the time and cost. Waiting for epoxy to harden..BORING..Than more sanding. The trick with epoxy is waiting for it to dry as hard as playdough than moving it to were you want...Less sanding!!!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted February 19, 2016 Very nice! I think you missed your calling :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike65 475 Report post Posted February 19, 2016 Hi Mike65. This method can be used on any steering wheel. I guess you are referring to the two spoke wheel? Once you cut away the plastic grip and a bit of the plastic down the spoke (1 or 2 inches), the metal grip frame is exposed. Assuming you want to make a smaller wheel, -Cut the metal hoop off at the spokes, then resize it, then weld it back on the spokes. Trim the excess spoke metal, and then go for it with the laminated timber. It is actually a lot less work with a non-rimblow wheel. No cutting of the groove for the horn strip, and the fake metal strip around the outside of the grip. So, hours of work saved right there. My second wheel I deleted both of those items anyway. And that's what I am driving with right now. Love the size, love the center horn button, and love the look. Drives better too. Let me know if you need any help. SA69mach, Do you have any pics of your current steering wheel in your mach?. What kind of wood did you use?. I am thinking of using pine since I have a few pieces left over from when I built a desk. Mike. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ray1970 88 Report post Posted February 20, 2016 Time for someone to get a new one started.. Different ideas. wood and look. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SA69mach 39 Report post Posted February 20, 2016 SA69mach, Do you have any pics of your current steering wheel in your mach?. What kind of wood did you use?. I am thinking of using pine since I have a few pieces left over from when I built a desk. Mike. There is a pic near the bottom of page 1 of this thread. Installed. Pine in unsuitable for this work, It is high in resin, which makes steaming and water content difficult to deal with, and the timber structure makes it prone to splintering and snapping. Lots of knots and imperfections, which add to the problem. You can use what you like, but I would not recommend any pine, fir cedar etc. Hardwood is fine grained, straight grained heavy and hard. Ideal for steaming, and forming. Finishing work on hardwood is slower, but you rarely get splits and splinters, even after tight curves. Plus making thin laths of timber strips is near impossible with any pines, and they just wont bend without snapping. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ray1970 88 Report post Posted February 20, 2016 The end is near.. The epoxy went on black but sanded out gray..(PC-7) Did a test strip with putting clear on it...This helped but was not as black as I had hoped. I have a plan that I hope will work out... Thinking about doing some inlay on the outer rim. Not shore yet. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ray1970 88 Report post Posted February 20, 2016 Went for the inlay... 4 cut off wheels trimmed up were a perfect cut... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
barnett468 418 Report post Posted February 20, 2016 Nice...so what is your address so we can send you ours? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ray1970 88 Report post Posted February 20, 2016 This would be so much easer if I really new what I was doing....... Can you say learning curve...........Yes you can............. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ray1970 88 Report post Posted February 21, 2016 Clear coat epoxy with with black pigment added...Looks good so far... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ray1970 88 Report post Posted February 21, 2016 The day has arrived for the clear coat....My problem is to stain or not...Did a test strip with two different stains and no stain....Really like the no stain look but the wood is a little lighter in colorthan i had hoped.Wont say there is no going back....But dam its a lot of work to sand stain off... Still have some final sanding and Holiday filling work to do. There is time to think and drink.. But not much.............NEXT UP.. steering pad fitment...This will be fun.. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted February 21, 2016 Nice progress. I had the same decision regarding stain on a floor I installed. I certainly don't regret not staining the floor. I'd think sanding the clear would be less work than sanding the stain if you didn't like your initial choice. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ray1970 88 Report post Posted February 21, 2016 Went with no stain and I like it...Allmost perfect with the fake dark walnut that the car has...A little sanding and one more coat....life should be good... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted February 22, 2016 Easy peasy :) Pat yourself on the back as you did a fantastic job! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ray1970 88 Report post Posted February 22, 2016 Really need to get the wheel in the car to see how the pad looks..(Day or two more) Wood inserts on the pad?? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SA69mach 39 Report post Posted February 22, 2016 Pure issue of personal taste. I would not. I like the original design and colors. You have the real wood grain of the timber grip dominating the overall look. Nice job Ray. Are you going with a center horn button? Or rim blow switch? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
