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Machspeed

Meet QUEENIE.... 69 Gulfstream Aqua Build

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3 minutes ago, RPM said:

Real nice work! So good in fact, I'll let you work on mine. There's warm weather and sunshine in Cali.   :)

Thanks! Hey RPM, looks like someone hacked my thread. Anyway we can fix the title by taking out those crazy characters?

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On 4/8/2017 at 9:19 PM, Machspeed said:

Thanks! Hey RPM, looks like someone hacked my thread. Anyway we can fix the title by taking out those crazy characters?

It also goes into some of your replies, weird. Anyways, some great stuff and some great welding :) 

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16 hours ago, RPM said:

Huh, we used to be able to edit the title but I don't see that option with the new format. Maybe Bswor knows.

I was able to edit it....missed it when I was looking for it. Thx buddy!

 

2 hours ago, stangnet33 said:

It also goes into some of your replies, weird. Anyways, some great stuff and some great welding :) 

Thanks stang! 

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1 hour ago, Machspeed said:

I was able to edit it....missed it when I was looking for it. Thx buddy!

Where did you find the link and what is it titled?

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You likely don't see it because you didn't post it, but it is right there next to "Quote" at the bottom of the individual posting. I bet that if you look at your last post to me here, you will see it, "Edit".   

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Have not posted much but have been continually working at things. Last weekend removed the remaining interior components and all the exterior window molding and the drip rail molding. Chipped the windshield in a spot while attempting to remove the trim. The chip would likely be covered by the molding but now I'm contemplating replacing it. My brother assures me that while the windshield may look good, once back in after the new paint and all, every imperfection will stick out like a sore thumb. He states that I will notice issues with it, as he did his in the resto of his Boss 302. Brother even recommends I replace my door glass as well. If I do that, good time to go with the bolt in stuff over the current glue in. Pricey upgrade though.

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In the picture you can see the above chip. This done with a tool that I acquired for the specific purpose of removing the trim. Everybody raved about this tool and there is even a U-Tube video on it. I found a better tool for the job and think I will post in the How To's regarding that trim removal along with the glass removal.  Anyway, with the other tool, I removed the front window trim quickly and quite easily. That was not the case with back window trim, as the gasket makes things a little more challenging, not to mention that the sealant also adheres to the trim which was really the bigger issue.  

This past weekend, Memorial Day weekend.....GOD bless our troops, I, along with the help of my son, removed all the glass. Back glass is easier than the front but, surprisingly, the front was really not that bad. You can check that process out in the How To's later. Anyway, glass came out without a hitch. 

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To ready the car for the rotisserie, I lack removal of the fuel tank, rearend assembly and some front suspension components. Think I'll build that rotisserie next though. 

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1 hour ago, Ridge Runner said:

Never put an old windshield back in a new restore ,you will see what looks like it has been sand blasted and you will not be happy with it 

I can vouch for that. I did it and while I love the fact that it's original, driving directly into the sun is a challenge I could live without. I'll probably change it out someday.

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2 hours ago, Ridge Runner said:

Never put an old windshield back in a new restore ,you will see what looks like it has been sand blasted and you will not be happy with it 

Ditto. Even cheap arse Bob spent the ~$250 on new Carlite glass.

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3 hours ago, Ridge Runner said:

Never put an old windshield back in a new restore ,you will see what looks like it has been sand blasted and you will not be happy with it 

That is precisely what my brother said! And, if cheap arse Bob sprung for new glass, that means something! Seriously, thanks fella!!!

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Last month was slow and little time to work on Queenie. Family reunion, Mid-American Mustang/Shelby meet, and honey do stuff, which of course, is the biggest priority. There is much truth to the saying, "happy wife, happy life".

Did have some fun at the Mustang/Shelby meet, as my brother brought his recently restored 70 Boss 302 up. The car had not been on a track since the restoration so he took it out to both the  speedway and the drags to see how it would do. The car is an original Boss 302 that is, contour people, don't look...... resto modded tastefully. Under the hood is a 600 HP Boss 302 that flat out screams. While it has plenty of power, he doesn't have enough rubber under it to keep it on the track, especially at the drags. At the drags he couldn't get out of first and second gear and when he hit third, the rear came out from under it and he almost slammed the wall. Scared the crap out of me just watching. After that pass, he promptly loaded it up on the trailer. That single pass run was 14.20 at 115 MPH. Next year, good rubber. He did manage to win a 1st place in his class at the car show. The car is eye candy to the max.  

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Anyway, I did manage to remove the entire front end which, I might add, was quite the chore. With the exception of the driver's side spindle, everything up front was what Ford put on her back in 69. Breaking those upper and lower control arms from the spindle proved to be the most difficult part but was ultimately resolved with about $10 worth of parts from my local hardware store. This gleaned from Dazed Cars website whom I think credits Mustang Steve for it.

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With this little tool, I was able to remove both the UCA and the LCA, with the UCA giving me the most grief. That and some PBA blaster, I might add. Great stuff! After much wrenching and banging, nothing like the sound of that pop when it breaks loose. 

With that done and the front end components removed, I am attending to the "B" patch modification which I will follow up with by drilling the support for the Arning drop. I'm going to do this a little different though, as I don't like the lip of the frame rail sticking up causing a water trap. Since this picture I have shaved that area of the frame down so it sits almost flush with the bottom of the B patch. Waiting on some rust encapsulator so hopefully by next week this ill be welded in. 

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Got up extra early yesterday, 5:30 am,  with a host of things I wanted to get accomplished on the car. I've got to get this car ready for the rotisserie. First on the agenda was to fix the rear floor pans, as they were cracked out from where my exhaust was hung.

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My car was originally a single exhaust car, but I had the Midas Touch performed on it all those years ago and they attached the exhaust to the seat belt mount and a bracket that secures the rear brake line. The cracks you see are the result of their work. Both sides had cracks. I drilled out the ends of the cracks and welded the cracks secure. I did not know this but duel exhaust equipped cars received reinforcement back here. I found the reinforcement pans at Classic Tube and welded them in. I also purchased the correct dual exhaust hangers through them as well. These guys sell more than just brake and fuel lines.

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After addressing the rear pan, I proceeded to weld in the "B" patches for the added shock tower support. I did this a little bit different in that I trimmed down the outer frame support flush, as I do not like the water retention there. This area is sealed now. 

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To finish up, I removed the entire rear end. I was dreading this as I just knew the removal of the rear leafs would be rough. The bolts that secure them rust inside the bushing and often have to be cut out. Lucky me, mine pushed right out with my impact gun. I had forgotten how heavy that 3rd member is. About busted my hand in the roll over maneuver to set it down gently.

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All in all a good day. Finished up at 2:00 with no blood or tears and just a little sweat. Hopefully, I can get the rotisserie built next week and shortly thereafter off to the media blaster.   

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It's been some time now since I posted anything on my build, this mainly due to the literal rebuild of a home I was renting to some very trashy and unscrupulous renters. Can't believe people sometimes, but this outfit left owing me three months rent, trashed my property, and left all the crap that they didn't want. Not a thing I could do about it either. The property was so bad, I had to gut it. Took me 14 months to finish it and about $25K. It's on the market now and I'm out of the land lord business. 

Anyway, want to get this car out for paint no later than this Summer. Past couple of Saturdays, I've  been building a rotisserie with plans I've taken from our good friend Ridge Runner. Still uncertain as to how I want to do the rotating assembly, this mainly due to the fact that I've never operated one and I lack some understanding of center of balance and best way to get the car on and off the thing. Also want to be able to sell it when I'm done with it. Ridge, if you see this, know that I will be PM'ing you. Anyway, this done so far:  

 

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You will find the center balance point is about 4 inches up from the rear bumper mounting holes . I dont worry about a brace under the body because i use my lift to attach the rotisserie so there is no chance of any bending the back of the body ,but if you use a hydraulic jack i would make a mounting bracket to the old tye down bracket holes in the rear frame . The front really doesnt need more than a bracket that catches both bumper bracket holes in the frame rails ,the front rails are very tough and can handle the weight just fine the front is also about 4 inches to balance point up from the bumper mounting holes 

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These air assist jacks from harbor freight at the front and back of the rotisserie would be great for lifting . I used one on my tubing bender and so did RPM ,and they work great,just a mounting bracket at the bottom and a pipe to slip the shaft into under the non rotating part of the head and you would be ready to lift

 

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7 hours ago, Machspeed said:

It's been some time now since I posted anything on my build, this mainly due to the literal rebuild of a home I was renting to some very trashy and unscrupulous renters. Can't believe people sometimes, but this outfit left owing me three months rent, trashed my property, and left all the crap that they didn't want. Not a thing I could do about it either. The property was so bad, I had to gut it. Took me 14 months to finish it and about $25K. It's on the market now and I'm out of the land lord business. 

Anyway, want to get this car out for paint no later than this Summer. Past couple of Saturdays, I've  been building a rotisserie with plans I've taken from our good friend Ridge Runner. Still uncertain as to how I want to do the rotating assembly, this mainly due to the fact that I've never operated one and I lack some understanding of center of balance and best way to get the car on and off the thing. Also want to be able to sell it when I'm done with it. Ridge, if you see this, know that I will be PM'ing you. Anyway, this done so far:  

 

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Make your center post 24 inches tall ,and make the head slip in post 24 inches tall also ,you can drill every 2 inches in the sliding head post for pins ,24 inches tall should get the head low enough to bolt the assembly to the body 

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Thanks fellas, really appreciate ya!

Ridge, I chose this base platform that you designed because I felt it would be the most stable, especially when loaded on a trailer. Can you advise on this comment you made above, it's not clear to me: " if you use a hydraulic jack i would make a mounting bracket to the old tye down bracket holes in the rear frame. I know you know this car better than I do, so what are the old tye down bracket holes you speak of?

BTW, was in Harbor Freight yesterday looking at their hydraulic rams. Did not see the above ram. Is that a complete assembly or is the air assist separate?

Thanks!

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