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My Mach 1

Has anyone put a shaker scoop on their 69 or 70 Mach?

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Its a matter of buying the kit, recommend buying the big block kit even if you don't have one, as it is lower profile and can be easily raised vs nearly impossible to lower the high profile, small block shaker base.

 

Then its a matter of, Buying a new hood, or cutting and patching the holes in your existing hood.

 

Should be pretty straight forward and easy as long as you don't have aftermarket engine mounts that are not stock height, or hi-rise intake manifold, or aftermarket transmission crossmembers that drop it down (Say for like a TKO600 or T-56), causing an odd air cleaner angle. Or a larger than stock distributor/cap for aircleaner base clearance.

 

 

I considered it, and decided against it For several reasons.

 

You would have to fill the holes for the bolt on scoop, or buy a new hood altogether, as the shaker scoop is smaller footprint than the bolt on scoop.

I have aftermarket aircleaners/engine mounts/etc that might affect how the shaker scoop sits.

Reproduction scoop doesnt look that great.

I really like the turn signals in the scoop and didn't want to loose them. Considered trying to fit them onto a shaker scoop.

 

Much simpler and cheaper to just cut a hole in the hood and make the non functional scoop into being functional,and making or fitting an aircleaner base to seal off the underside of the opening, even if your hood is already painted, this can easily be done without ruining the paint with Air nibblers, some care, some hand filing, and hand paint touch up.

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Forum member Metalgraver has a hood and shaker and just asked if anyone was looking for one, he's in Austin, Tx.

 

I bought a shaker assembly and shaker hood for my 69. I have no experience cutting the hole in the hood, but the hood uses a trim ring and reinforcements under the lip. Getting the shaker to sit correctly took a bit of time. The height of the shaker depends on engine, intake and motor mounts. I've got several posts on my shaker throughout my build thread.

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bringing this thread back - 


So after being burned by a bad repro mach1 style scoop - decided to upgrade to a shaker instead of trying my chance again 

here are the current kits i've found for a shaker -

cheapest - a kit on ebay for $330   (all fiberglass would need $150 trim ring)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/261724011526...MakeTrack=true

economy kit from cj for $440 (all fiberglass would need $150 trim ring probably same as ebay one)
Mustang Shaker Assembly Economy 289/302/351C Small Block 69-70

scott drake one for $570 - (metal tub would need need $150 trim ring)
http://www.cjponyparts.com/scott-dra...-1970/p/SHKR1/


and then fordramair.com has a full kit for $660  (metal tub, looks like scott drak one and includes trim ring) 
http://fordramair.com/new/products/shakers.htm


I've already got a non HEI distributor on the way so clearance for that won't be an issue - and I know i'll need to add a spacer as well as i have a 302 to bump the shaker above the hood

I'll also need to fill the mach1 scoop holes (luckily I didnt cut turn signal holes) 




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Thanks guys - I appreciate the input. It's more than I care to tackle for the cost and time.

+1,  I use to think a shaker air cleaner was the best thing since sliced bread.  I never had the money to do a conversion from my stock Mach 1 non functional scoop.  Now, years later, having a shaker air cleaner isn't so important anymore.

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+1,  I use to think a shaker air cleaner was the best thing since sliced bread.  I never had the money to do a conversion from my stock Mach 1 non functional scoop.  Now, years later, having a shaker air cleaner isn't so important anymore.

 

its funny I was the opposite - first thing I bought when I got my mystang was the mach1 scoop - I always wanted one.

 

I had the body shop put it on at the same time they painted my car  ... and now im so bummed out I didn't realize that most fiberglass repro's are terrible and never thought of test fitting it first.  Now I feel they look best when they match the cars paint (not the blacked out hood design)

 

looking at factory mach1 scoops- over $200 plus probably another $100 to paint match - at that rate I figure I go big and get a shaker.  no paint needed. 

 

 

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Im swapping to a shaker in the next few weeks . I purchased the big block shaker base as its a bit lower to go on my 351w with a performer rpm intake. The shaker trim rings are all rubbish as know one seems to make cast ones. Filling the holes were the turn signals fit will be the biggest issue but worth it. My hood looks to be a 70 so I have no issue cutting it up . If it were an original hood on my 69 I probably would have purchased a repco one to use.

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yeah... my hood is an original 69 with only the bolt holes for the mach1 scoop... im so torn on weather to cut it or buy a repro and paint it. ..... i'll probably just cut my original.

If your scoop has the turn signals you will also have to fill the large oval holes as well. You would be better buying a repco and saving your original hood .

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If your scoop has the turn signals you will also have to fill the large oval holes as well. You would be better buying a repco and saving your original hood .

 

no turn signal holes - so only tiny patches needed for the bolt holes. 

 

Cant think of a realist reason to SAVE my original hood -especially since the repro's are known to have defects. 

If i were to sell it for ~ 800... I'd have to buy a repro for $350, and then have it painted which would probably be ~ $400.    

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no turn signal holes - so only tiny patches needed for the bolt holes.

 

Cant think of a realist reason to SAVE my original hood -especially since the repro's are known to have defects.

If i were to sell it for ~ 800... I'd have to buy a repro for $350, and then have it painted which would probably be ~ $400.

yep sounds good to me . Can't wait to see that shaker coming out of the hood. ðŸ‘

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Been there, done that. For those wanting to avoid the fiberglass you can buy the late model scoop. It is nearly identical to original but does have wrinkle finish that you may need to strip. I was going to go this route and finally found a deal on an original. Also you can buy the adapter ring from the Aussies to adapt your air cleaner to accept the midplate. All very doable.  

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Were all of the '69 factory hoods designed to allow the shaker hole to be cut? I'm referring to the re-enforcement on the underside of the hood. Or does the re-enforcement need to be trimmed back from the edge of the shaker hole? Just curious. I have nerve paid attention to non-shaker hoods.   Dave R.

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Yeah I've been think about the whole shaker thing again. My hood is the original Mach 1 hood so I'm going to buy a repro shaker hood and shaker from CJ Pony parts which already has the shaker hole cut out and comes with the trim ring. I just wish the repro shakers weren't fiberglass. What about the vac actuator is it necessary or not?

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Yeah I've been think about the whole shaker thing again. My hood is the original Mach 1 hood so I'm going to buy a repro shaker hood and shaker from CJ Pony parts which already has the shaker hole cut out and comes with the trim ring. I just wish the repro shakers weren't fiberglass. What about the vac actuator is it necessary or not?

I did the same, I purchased a repro hood. and Please ponder this ... if the shaker was not made of fiberglass, it would cost a heck of a lot more!

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Yeah I've been think about the whole shaker thing again. My hood is the original Mach 1 hood so I'm going to buy a repro shaker hood and shaker from CJ Pony parts which already has the shaker hole cut out and comes with the trim ring. I just wish the repro shakers weren't fiberglass. What about the vac actuator is it necessary or not?[/quote

 

Not all shakers are fibreglass . I purchased one with an alloy upper and fibreglass base. You can buy all metal repco ones in Australia used for XY Falcons .

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What about the vac actuator is it necessary or not? 

 

My actuator died many moons ago so i just pulled it and the flapper out. 

Cant see were cold air all the time is a bad thing?

​Did have to modify the lower plate to fit my current MSD distributor---  351c motor

 

As a side note the motor runs the same with the shaker assy. on as with it off

As in no air filter assy. at all 

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Just remember that a shaker will limit your intake manifold choices.  I have an early Mach 1 style hood with the 4 pie cut outs.  Hopefully by next month I'll have my 427 medium riser dual quad set up on and dialed in.  It all fits under the hood and nobody knows until the hood is opened!

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I am looking at doing the Mach 1 scoop conversion to make it functional, since you mentioned that you had considered that. Has anyone else out there actually done that? I purchased a kit from www.fastlaneinnovations.com that I have not installed yet. It is an oval air cleaner base and seal. You add your own oval air filter element, and trim the seal to fit the underside of your hood. Then cut your hole under the stock scoop and you get a functional cold air intake. The kit only cost $99. It will be a while before I get around to installing it, but I'll post pictures and details.


 


They make round kits, too.


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Did that on one of my past mustangs when that stuff was in every junkyard.

Worked very well you get cold air without a lot of work or mods.

Today just try to find an air cleaner base at a junk yard from the 1970s... NOT!

 

Trying to find any big block base i can mod to lower my shaker so i can put NOS on it without paying 400.00$

for a repo base.

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Just remember that a shaker will limit your intake manifold choices.  I have an early Mach 1 style hood with the 4 pie cut outs.  Hopefully by next month I'll have my 427 medium riser dual quad set up on and dialed in.  It all fits under the hood and nobody knows until the hood is opened!

Yes I'm running a 351w and an edelbrock rpm manifold. It's a tight squeeze but doable with a few mods to the base. I just trimmed out 1/2 inch from were it sits on the carb or in my case the FiTech unit. Also had to put a hole in one spot were one of the efi fitting was hitting it. I will glass over them tomorrow.

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Shep69.....That's a nice looking install.....like you I have a 351w with Elderbrock Perf RPM manifold but with a Holley 650dpr instead of EFI. So mine may not need so much tweaking to fit. I suppose the fiberglass assembly won't be that bad considering as someone else mentioned somewhere on this thread ....no will know unless you tell them...But just for fun, I think I will give Mansfield Restorations a call and post whatever info I get from them.

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