metalgraver 12 Report post Posted April 14, 2015 Hello everybody, I have been dismantling my rust bucket for the past 6 months or so but I am now starting to put her back together. There are so many measurement's needed that I did not get them all and before I start welding things back together I want to make sure the measurements are correct. I have replaced all of the sheet metal up front, fire wall, cowling, outer cowlings, fender aprons and the radiator support. I also pulled out the shock towers because the prior owners had cut holes on both sides of each tower to get access to the grease fitting. The passenger tower had split across so I have decided to go ahead and install a IFS by R&C and do away with the towers. I took everything out of the front and forgot to measure the height from the top of the frame rail to the top of the fender aprons. Can some one take a measurement of this for me. Here is a picture installing the trunk floor with the wheel wells just screwed in for fitment. I had to rework the inside corner on both sides to make the wheel wells pull in tight so there would be no gap between the trunk floor and the wheel well and be able to mate the flange up tight. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
metalgraver 12 Report post Posted April 14, 2015 Here is another picture of what I did to make the fit tighter at the wheel wells. and a picture with the 1/4 panels screwed in place to check the fitment. I cut out the flange and trimmed the curve back until the wheel well fit tight making sure to leave enough room to weld a flange back in. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Brian Conway 264 Report post Posted April 14, 2015 If I understand correctly ? 18 & 3/16". Brian Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted April 14, 2015 Where do you need it measured? I believe the front measurement is different than the back. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
metalgraver 12 Report post Posted April 14, 2015 Bob, I think the back would be the critical point because of the hood hinges. The front will be dictated by the radiator support, but to make sure everything is fitting properly, give me both front and back. Brian gave me a dimension of 18-3/16th but I do not know if it is the front or the back. Can you also give me the inside to inside dimension from the right side to left side up front. I have everything screwed in, but I want to make double sure every thing is fitting properly before I weld it all in. I have a sister that lives in Bakersfield, I went to Livermore High in the 70`s. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted April 14, 2015 I'll be home from work in an hour and measure it. Sorry about your sister :) The Cowboys. If you went to high school in the 70's you gotta be really old! I graduated in 74. Where do you call home? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
det0326 179 Report post Posted April 14, 2015 If you went to high school in the 70's you gotta be really old! Thanks Bob I graduated in 1965. LOL Dave Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
det0326 179 Report post Posted April 14, 2015 I measured mine by laying a 4' straight edge across passenger apron to driver's apron and measured from top of frame rail to bottom of straight edge. In the front I got 16 and 11/16 . My hood hinges are on so I measured right behind them which is right in front of the fender apron extension and it measured 18 and 5/8. From inside front apron to inside front apron right behind rad. support I got 39 and 7/8. I don't know if these are factory correct or not but I have had the hood and fenders on for fitment and they fit really well. Dave Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted April 14, 2015 I graduated in 1965. LOL Dave 1965! If you're still working on old Mustangs you must be doing something right. I always figured you to be a youngster in his 30's Dave. The only measurement I got different (not necessarily correct) from Dave is the apron width, mine is 40". Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
det0326 179 Report post Posted April 14, 2015 1965! If you're still working on old Mustangs you must be doing something right. I always figured you to be a youngster in his 30's Dave. The only measurement I got different (not necessarily correct) from Dave is the apron width, mine is 40". as long as that 40" measurement is within reason I don't think it is to critical, the fenders have a lot of slop to move around. You and I were within 1/8 and I remeasured mine and it was probably more toward 39 and 15/16. Bob I have a son that just turned 50 and I told him if he doesn't stop having birthdays that he was going to catch me. LOL Dave Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Brian Conway 264 Report post Posted April 14, 2015 I must have misunderstood your request for a measurement. The way I read that was for a measurement from the " top of the frame rail to the top of the fender aprons ". Sorry. Brian Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
det0326 179 Report post Posted April 14, 2015 I think you understood correctly Brian. My fenders or presently off the car so I just laid a straight edge from left apron to right apron and measured from top of frame rail to bottom of straight edge. This would allow me to pull the tape vertically straight up and get a measurement. With your fenders on you didn't have that luxury tho. Metalgraver here's a couple of pictures first one being right behind the rad. support and the second one behind the hood hinges. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
metalgraver 12 Report post Posted April 15, 2015 Thank you Brian, Dave and RPM very much. I did measure last night and I have it close. I will make some small adjustments tonight and start welding in the aprons. I set my hood on there last night, with no hinges and noticed that the driver side of the hood was bowed up more than the passenger side. Is this common and is it some thing I can fix? I was thinking I could apply some downward pressure on that side to straiten it out. The hood came off of a car from Arizona, got the hood and a shaker for $400.00. Do you guys know anybody that needs a shaker. I am living in the Austin Texas area now. I graduated from Livermore High in 1978. Dave I noticed that you are working on your car and I was wondering if you could send me some pictures of the wing window area. I am going to need to do some work there in the corner before I put my 1/4 panels back on and would like some pictures to reference. Here are a few more pictures of the rust I am dealing with. The first picture is the back window top corner. It is like this on both sides. The second picture is the A pillar at the top corner of the windshield on both sides. The back window areas I have already rebuilt but the front A pillar I am going to cut out both pillars and weld new ones in. It is going to be the last thing I do before I epoxy the whole car. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
metalgraver 12 Report post Posted April 15, 2015 Some more pictures of the rust rot on the A pillars. This is why I am going to just cut them out, there is to much rot to try and fix. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted April 15, 2015 Research the going rate on shakers before you let it go, they bring a stiff price. And you probably need to go to confession for getting a hood and shaker for $400! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Brian Conway 264 Report post Posted April 15, 2015 By the appearance of the project he is involved with; he deserves the hood and shaker. Brian Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
det0326 179 Report post Posted April 15, 2015 Heres a couple of pictures of the 1/4 window area. Not sure if it is what you need or not. My car is sill apart with windows doors hood fenders and etc. off so I can get a picture of most any area you need just let me know. If you haven't checked my build album you may find some pictures there that may help as well. Just click on the link on this post. Dave Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted April 15, 2015 Thank you Brian, Dave and RPM very much. The hood came off of a car from Arizona, got the hood and a shaker for $400.00. Do you guys know anybody that needs a shaker. Forum member My Mach 1 is looking for a shaker. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted April 15, 2015 Here's a few pics, let us know if you need any others. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
metalgraver 12 Report post Posted April 15, 2015 Very nice, thank you very much, I think I can build what I need out of some sheet metal to fit the curve. It is that flange on the inside that I am missing. That shaker on e-bay is going for around $900.00 but that is for a NOS 427/429. I think the Mach 1 are around $500.00. I thank my lucky stars for that hood and shaker for the $400.00. I went to go look at an add for the drive line. The guy went to Arizona and bought a 69 sport roof with a T5 transmission and a 351W rebuilt motor and drove it back to Austin. He had intentions of tearing it down and rebuilding it up to a 600HP pro Turing car, so he did not want the 351W, transmission, drive shaft, headers, pipes, hood and shaker. He was asking $1200.00 for the motor, T5 transmission, drive shaft, headers and exhaust system which I jumped on because my car did not have a drive line, exhaust system or headers, the motor was going to need a complete overhaul and the original transmission is a C4. He then offered to sell me the shaker and hood for another $400.00 which I new what hoods and shakers cost and the hood on my car was all rotted out on the front lip. So I made a little up for the pile of rust I payed way to much for. Lucky for me when the guy went to pick up the car he was pulling it up onto the trailer by the stone guard and half way up it came loose and careened of the trailer and thru a fence. It put a big ole scratch down the side and dented one of the 1/4 panel extensions. The insurance Co. gave me $3000.00 to fix it, which I promptly used to replace the cowling and floors, paid some one to do that and got screwed there also. So now I am doing this whole build myself. Started off just wanting something that I could do some minor work but ended up with a total rebuild. I have never done any body or paint work and have rebuilt a 390 twice in a 69 chevy SS and drove it like a kid, blew it up and sold it. Thankfully there are some great guys on sites like this one that I can ask questions. This build is going to be in the $40,000.00 range by the time I am done and that's doing it all my self, paint and cost of car included. Here is a picture of the car before the guy dropped it off the trailer. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fantastic 57 Report post Posted April 16, 2015 The hood came off of a car from Arizona, got the hood and a shaker for $400.00. Do you guys know anybody that needs a shaker? If the shaker has an original base for a '69 with 351w, then I am quite interested. The shop made one for me, but can't beat an original. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
