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Ridge Runner

Lets Make A Fiberglass Hood .

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I took the top skin out of the mold this morning ,trimmed it and cut away the hood pin pockets .

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I ground the edge of the steel hood ,the three inches i left of the top ,with a 36 grit disk .I painted the edge with resin and put a strip of 2 oz mat all the way around the edge of the hood .Then i wet the mat with resin .i had my brother help me set the new top in place .I used some strips of 12 gauge sheet metal on the new top to spread the load as i clamped it in place with a couple of clamps ,you never have enough clamps .

I have already trimmed out the edges and sanded the top to the edge of the steel hood ,it will be the exact size as the metal hood now ,I will get some pics tomorrow .It's gona be sweet !!

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Sweet Baby Jesus I forgot how big those scoop holes are hahah I love it.

Cant wait to see how this thing turns out WOW.

Speaking of not having enough clamps, I think you need about 2 more and that should fill your life time quota HAHA.

 

That thing looks like it belongs on a fighter Jet haha...Or on My car :-)

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I didn't know that hood existed until you guys started discussing it. Makes you wonder why it never took off since so many folks like it, including me. I especially like the rear heart extractors. Those NACA ducts are cool, very functional and are still used today because they are the best design.

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So whats the plan for putting the air cleaner surround on the center Duct ?

Or will that be something you leave for the end user to do?

If so it would allow us to fabricate our own ram air type housings that could be hooked in with the NACA duct.

But would be a big help if you were to put the stock piece into the hood as well.

Man cant wait to see it finished....Got a Check or Paypal Payment just waiting.

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I got it trimmed to match the metal hood .i did some block sanding ,i was surprised just how smooth  it is being bonded on top of another hood .I  filled in the hood pin pockets .The very peak of the hood was a bit turned up so i sanded it down .I need to add some supports under the center of the top skin because i am afraid when i make the mold it may be just enough weight while wet to cause the center to sag. I still need to do a little bit of work on the front lip ,i want to smooth out the spot welds, getting close .

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So whats the plan for putting the air cleaner surround on the center Duct ?

Or will that be something you leave for the end user to do?

If so it would allow us to fabricate our own ram air type housings that could be hooked in with the NACA duct.

But would be a big help if you were to put the stock piece into the hood as well.

Man cant wait to see it finished....Got a Check or Paypal Payment just waiting.

The under bracing will be the same as the long hood only shortened in the front to fit the short hood  .The ram air chamber is part of the under bracing and will be there in the same location as the long hood .

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That hood is looking fantastic! Definitely something different, yet retro. Very impressive!

I think this will look great on a 69 ,especially with the front scoops cut out .I think i will be putting one on my R code ,i need a hood and the shaker and that is expensive ,this way i will at least still have a ram air hood .All the scoop openings will be cut on the finished hoods but they will need the screens and they can be bought at any of the parts venders .

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So whats the plan for putting the air cleaner surround on the center Duct ?

Or will that be something you leave for the end user to do?

If so it would allow us to fabricate our own ram air type housings that could be hooked in with the NACA duct.

But would be a big help if you were to put the stock piece into the hood as well.

Man cant wait to see it finished....Got a Check or Paypal Payment just waiting.

As far as i can tell they will be something like $450 +shipping ...For members ,for all others will be $550 +shipping  .The ISO resin is a lot more expensive than the bargain basement resin that most fiberglass parts are made from .When you close this hood it will ring like metal .I will have to find a shipping company and find boxes big enough to fit them.Shipping will  be exact shipping and not a penny more .

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I'll take the first one you are ready to sale.

Why did you fill the pin pockets up?

Not that I want that type of hood pin, I prefer the cables but just wondering.

I had to notch my stock hood to clear my AC Compressor hoses since I used a serpentine kit from an 89 F150 and the compressor hoses exit the top of the classic auto air compressor, so I'm wondering if the long runners will help clear the hoses and not require cutting?

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I'll take the first one you are ready to sale.

Why did you fill the pin pockets up?

Not that I want that type of hood pin, I prefer the cables but just wondering.

I had to notch my stock hood to clear my AC Compressor hoses since I used a serpentine kit from an 89 F150 and the compressor hoses exit the top of the classic auto air compressor, so I'm wondering if the long runners will help clear the hoses and not require cutting?

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I'll take the first one you are ready to sale.

Why did you fill the pin pockets up?

Not that I want that type of hood pin, I prefer the cables but just wondering.

I had to notch my stock hood to clear my AC Compressor hoses since I used a serpentine kit from an 89 F150 and the compressor hoses exit the top of the classic auto air compressor, so I'm wondering if the long runners will help clear the hoses and not require cutting?

The hood pins attach to the fender and headlight bucket on the Shelby ,they would not work with the stock fenders so i had to fill them.It may be a little longer than i was thinking ,i have some work that popped up that i have to do first ,maybe another week before i have the molds made .

I did some more block sanding and the top is coming out great ,just a couple of very light low spots around the edges i have to build up then it is ready for primer and another block sanding .The first hood top i make will have to stay in the mold until i cut and fit the under bracing and bond it in ,then i will make the new underbrace mold from that so there is still a bit of work before a complete hood can be made .

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I'll take the first one you are ready to sale.

Why did you fill the pin pockets up?

Not that I want that type of hood pin, I prefer the cables but just wondering.

I had to notch my stock hood to clear my AC Compressor hoses since I used a serpentine kit from an 89 F150 and the compressor hoses exit the top of the classic auto air compressor, so I'm wondering if the long runners will help clear the hoses and not require cutting?

If you had to cut just the  x brace you should not have a problem because there is no x brace on this hood it is just the ram air chamber and a short brace on the side of that .

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i was supposed to work on something else today ...HA! i did a final block sand on the gel coat and primered it  I will block sand again tomorrow and primer one more time and finish the primer with 2000 grit .In between the other project i will make the mold sometime next week

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I primered it yesterday with high build .Blocked sanded it with 180 then 400 then 600 grit .This top cant possibly get any flatter .

The top is finished except i need to turn it upside down and sharpen the bottom of the outer lip ,i will use bondo .This will allow me to make a tight flange so the hood will have a finished edge all the way around. Next step will be waxing the surface with mold wax ,spraying 3 coats of liquid mold release ,it dries like a sheet of plastic,and spray on the black tooling gel coat .The mold release it water base and washes off with warm water so wax never touches the finished hood surface .

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I spread bondo on the back side of the hood lip

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Using my angle grinder and a 80 grit disk i leveled it down to about 3/16 inch thick keeping the outer edge knife sharp .

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In about an hour i will wax the top with mold wax .Tomorrow morning ,after a bit of prep work ,i will be ready to start on the top skin mold . Soon ...very Soon !

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