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bumpsteer kit reviews

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Hey guys, I was poking around and came across this thread.  I hope you don't mind if I throw my two cents in.  I recently addressed a similiar question over on VMF, so this is essentially a copy paste of my response there.

 

It is impossible to completely remove bump-steer from ANY suspension system that has a reasonable amount of travel. It's a math issue. Bump steer is essentially a math error that changes the toe-in setting on your alignment while you're driving. If you were to run the suspension through it's travel and note the changes in toe you could make a graph. Usually it's most pronounced at full compression and/or extension.  It can be exacerbated by running a Granada spindle which has the wrong steering arm entirely.

By changing the tie rod mounting points, height, and angles you can reduce or move the curve. Typically you would move it to where the most pronounced change is at a point in the travel that the suspension rarely sees.

We use an adjustable tie-rod end to fine tune it even further. The adjuster uses a series of shims, as thin as 0.031"! Every little bit makes a difference. Our suspension and rack have modified geometry which greatly reduces the amount of bump steer so usually we only prescribe the adjuster for very aggressive cars.

The Pro-Motorsports kit is a "Corrector" unit.  A corrector assumes a certain suspension setup, ride height, tire width, and tire diameter. If your suspension is the same as the one the designer used, it's going to help a lot. If it's different, it may still help a little. Bump steer is an equation. All the numbers are important. Also, you will need to drill out the tie-rod taper on your spindle's steering arm to install the supplied hardware.

That said, adjustable tie-rod ends/bump steer adjusters, like ours, are not something you can typically just bolt on. You MUST chart/graph the bump-steer curve. If you can't do it yourself, you need to take it to a qualified alignment shop. Les Schwab can't do it, you need to find a race tuner.

 

The pic below is our bumpsteer kit.  If you decide to make your own, make sure that it has AT LEAST a 5/8" shank rod end and that it's a good quality, US made piece.

TCP%20TIER-09.jpg

EDIT: I had never read that the 'negative wedge kit' would reduce bump steer until about 30 seconds ago. This is a fallacy. All it does is adjust the balljoint angle in the upper arm so they don't bind at compression. That's a good thing, our arms have this built in. However, it has ZERO effect on bump-steer characteristics. Adding the Shelby drop helps a little but, again, this is an equation.

 

 

 

 

I have read various explanations about bumpsteer, and I guess the authors of the articles usually relate to the ideal of getting the outer tie rod to be level with the LCA when the suspension is at rest. I can see the value of that, but unless the LCA pivot point is exactly aligned with the pivot of the entire tie rod arm, it will never remain in line, right?


Respectfully, no. Sort of.

What this person was referring to pertains to cars with front-steer spindles and it is close but not quite there. Since this is a Mustang forum and Mustangs are, mostly, rear steer that wouldn't apply. I don't want to completely monopolize this thread so let's leave that for another discussion. One big reason for the difference in tie-rod location front-vs-rear steer is a pesky little thing called Ackerman angle.

(Ackerman figured this stuff out in the 19th century so his horse and buggy would turn better. Without a computer! loco.gif )

A great source of info about how various suspensions work is to go on Amazon and pre-order THIS BOOK By Mark Savitske. He just updated it and the new version is out now. Or you can get the original which has been around for several years. It's written so that a regular guy, like me, can understand some very complex concepts. If you want to go deeper, pick up the Carrol Smith books or Herb Adams' book.

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Thanks Carl, that is good info. When I put my bump steer kit together I used this tie rod adjuster from Speedway as it's 4140 chromoly and IMCA approved.

 

 

Screenshot_2013-12-22-15-36-08_zpsfa8fd8

 

 

During the measurement stage of the bumpsteer, instead of using spacers and shims to get my ultimate location, I used a jamb nut below the rod end and a spring above it. This allowed me to adjust the rod end vertically by only turning the lower nut as I cycled the spindle thru its arc. The spring kept the rod end snug against the nut. I then took the measurement needed for the area above the rod end and made a spacer.

 

IMG_20150525_115054_zpss6ladsw1.jpg

 

 

Thanks again Carl, jump in anytime.

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That's a pretty cool setup.  Good thinking!  I bet it saved you at least an hour, maybe more!

 

This is what we came up with for the bumpsteer adjuster on our billet upright.  The stud is stainless, is pocket milled on the end for an Allen wrench, and the steering arm is threaded.  This goes on our gStreet chassis.  We're working on the Mustang version of the front suspension right now.

 

Sorry about the massive pics, I couldn't find a version that was a little smaller.

5736-75-56_1_.jpg

5737-sm1-2_1_.jpg

 

 

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Damn Carl, that is car p0rn at its finest! Those parts are top shelf good. Guess I haven't been to the TCP website in a while. I don't remember seeing those parts at the March Meet in Bakersfield this year.

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Bob, IF those parts were there they would have been on a table next to the trailer.  And if Mike was taking a bathroom/race watching break he would have locked them up.  They're pretty awesome.

 

Hey Frode, you mind if I share those pics of the...Trollstigen on Facebook and quote you as saying "No trouble with the TCP rack or bumpsteer kit on this road."    Is the road always that busy or do you get to drive it faster sometimes?

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