bumpsteer kit reviews

[70769 18]

Hey guys,

 

I'm looking into replacing the rest of my front end and i want to do a bump steer kit. I am leaning towards the tcp one since they have the most comprehensive kit i can find. Those of you that have a kit what do you think of it? Does it make sense to have it on a daily driver? pros and cons? suggestions and opinions are VERY welcome!

 

i look forward to reading your thoughts!

[lanky 44]

This is related info... I bought the baer kit and this was my setup: 1" drop springs with 1/3 coil cut, stock style arms, 1/4" isolators,  4.5 reverse eye leafs, stock power steering box.

I actually had to bring both the sleeves and the tie rods to a machinist and have them shorten the sleeves and tie rods in order to achieve proper toe. I think this is total bs for a product that is supposed to fit. Now that I am in the middle of installing the Borgeson kit, I may have to purchase new tie rods again because the new steering box puts the pitman arm in a different location at center than the stock one does. Been waiting for a related thread to post this on, because if I had known this I obviously would have left the stock style tie rods on for awhile until doing the borgeson conversion. Either way they should have fit the first time. Time will tell how upset I will be...

[barnett468 418]

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unnecessary for daily street driving . . good if you auto cross or road race.

 

might get global west or maier racing strut rod bushings.

 

if you dont want a super still ride i would not use 620 springs . . i use 480.

[70769 18]

.

unnecessary for daily street driving . . good if you auto cross or road race.

 

might get global west or maier racing strut rod bushings.

 

if you dont want a super still ride i would not use 620 springs . . i use 480.

 

 

I'm already running poly strut rod bushings from grab-a-track. As far as the springs are concerned, i'll keep that in mind, i'm already running a 1 1/8" sway bar and that tightened things up significantly.

 

the reason i wanted to run them for a daily use is due to cost. I origninally wanted to run all MOOG stuff but i was kinda priced out, so i figured i'd upgrade. Would it be detrimental to use every day?

[70769 18]

This is related info... I bought the baer kit and this was my setup: 1" drop springs with 1/3 coil cut, stock style arms, 1/4" isolators,  4.5 reverse eye leafs, stock power steering box.

I actually had to bring both the sleeves and the tie rods to a machinist and have them shorten the sleeves and tie rods in order to achieve proper toe. I think this is total bs for a product that is supposed to fit. Now that I am in the middle of installing the Borgeson kit, I may have to purchase new tie rods again because the new steering box puts the pitman arm in a different location at center than the stock one does. Been waiting for a related thread to post this on, because if I had known this I obviously would have left the stock style tie rods on for awhile until doing the borgeson conversion. Either way they should have fit the first time. Time will tell how upset I will be...

That's good to know, I'm running the stock sagging fronts with a whole coil cut off and 4.5 mideyes out back. Stock style arms with as much polyeurethane stuff as i could afford to put in. I was considering the Baer kit but I decided against it since they dont ahve one with inner rods. Good info to keep in mind in case i ever decide to go to a different rack.

[70769 18]

this is the kit i'm looking at

 

http://www.cachassisworks.com/p-1762-mustang-67-69-cougar-67-69-bump-steer-tie-rod-set-for-oem-spindle.aspx

[barnett468 418]

I'm already running poly strut rod bushings from grab-a-track. As far as the springs are concerned, i'll keep that in mind, i'm already running a 1 1/8" sway bar and that tightened things up significantly.

 

the reason i wanted to run them for a daily use is due to cost. I origninally wanted to run all MOOG stuff but i was kinda priced out, so i figured i'd upgrade. Would it be detrimental to use every day?

 

ok, i do't understand what you are saying . . they cost 290.00 so why do you want to run them due to cost . . if you dont buy them you save 290.00.

 

dont overtighten urethane strut bushings or run curved washers with the curve inward on them either. they can break strut rods

.

[buening 63]

I'd remove those poly strut bushings ASAP.

 

In regards to bumpsteer and which kits works best, the following thread may be informative: http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/mod-custom-forum/549206-pro-motorsports-bumpsteer-kit.html

 

In summary the Pro-Motorsports minimized bumpsteer the most compared to the Baer kit. It does affect turning radius since it moves the tie rods in relation to the spindle, FYI.

[70769 18]

ok, i do't understand what you are saying . . they cost 290.00 so why do you want to run them due to cost . . if you dont buy them you save 290.00.

 

dont overtighten urethane strut bushings or run curved washers with the curve inward on them either. they can break strut rods

.

I was pricing through oreilly's and was coming in at 400 before today, i found all the parts needed for less than 200 bucks on rock auto. I'll keep the overtightening thing in mind, thanks a bunch

[70769 18]

I'd remove those poly strut bushings ASAP.

 

In regards to bumpsteer and which kits works best, the following thread may be informative: http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/mod-custom-forum/549206-pro-motorsports-bumpsteer-kit.html

 

In summary the Pro-Motorsports minimized bumpsteer the most compared to the Baer kit. It does affect turning radius since it moves the tie rods in relation to the spindle, FYI.

oh man, i dont wanna lose the turning radius, i like the fact it turns pretty tight. hmm may just do a rebuild with better oe parts. thanks man!

[Grabber70Mach 107]

Like buening pointed out, get rid of the poly strut rod bushings. Why? They will contribute to your strut rods breaking.

[barnett468 418]

oh man, i dont wanna lose the turning radius, i like the fact it turns pretty tight. hmm may just do a rebuild with better oe parts. thanks man!

 

in addition to moog, mcquay norris makes oem style parts

 

global west and maier strut rod bushings are not urethane . . they are slightly harder rubber than stock and dont cause breaking issues . . breakage is extremely rare anyway even with urethane ones.

[70769 18]

ok, right on, thanks guys! as far as maier is concerned, i had one bad experience with some parts and never again.

[70769 18]

i have no idea why all these pics are attaching....

[fvike 173]

I have the TCP one, and it's pretty straight forward. Install it with the wheels on the ground, shim it until the LCA and tie rods are paralel, and you're ready to go!

[buening 63]

oh man, i dont wanna lose the turning radius, i like the fact it turns pretty tight. hmm may just do a rebuild with better oe parts. thanks man!

 

Unless I'm not thinking clearly today, you won't lose radius but rather it'll make your steering ratio higher.  The tie rod is moved closer to the spindle, which means the steering linkage will need to move less compared to the stock configuration (less of a steering arm on the spindle, essentially).  Regardless, any of the bumpsteer kits will likely be fine on the street, and the bumpsteer differences is negligible on the street. See below for the Pro-Motorsports version. The Pro-Motorsports version is not adjustable, FYI.

 

 

There is also a DIY version if you like to do it on the cheap that is comparable to the Baer and other kits.  It is a Pinto adjustable tie rod adapter attached to a heim joint (which replaces the tie rod end). See below for link to adapter and picture of it on a car. Keep in mind to utilize the Baer, TCP, or DIY type correctly you need a way to measure bumpsteer.  If you are curious how to measure it, do a google search and you'll find numerous ways to do it.  You have to remove the shocks and wheels in order to measure it.

 

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Adjustable-Tie-Rod-Adapter-Stud-to-Heim,3333.html

 

[70769 18]

I have the TCP one, and it's pretty straight forward. Install it with the wheels on the ground, shim it until the LCA and tie rods are paralel, and you're ready to go!

 how is it on the street? do you do any long drives with it? how does it do? I want to take mine up in the mountains later this year and i dont want to be exhausted when i get there.

[70769 18]

Unless I'm not thinking clearly today, you won't lose radius but rather it'll make your steering ratio higher.  The tie rod is moved closer to the spindle, which means the steering linkage will need to move less compared to the stock configuration (less of a steering arm on the spindle, essentially).  Regardless, any of the bumpsteer kits will likely be fine on the street, and the bumpsteer differences is negligible on the street. See below for the Pro-Motorsports version. The Pro-Motorsports version is not adjustable, FYI.

 

 

There is also a DIY version if you like to do it on the cheap that is comparable to the Baer and other kits.  It is a Pinto adjustable tie rod adapter attached to a heim joint (which replaces the tie rod end). See below for link to adapter and picture of it on a car. Keep in mind to utilize the Baer, TCP, or DIY type correctly you need a way to measure bumpsteer.  If you are curious how to measure it, do a google search and you'll find numerous ways to do it.  You have to remove the shocks and wheels in order to measure it.

 

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Adjustable-Tie-Rod-Adapter-Stud-to-Heim,3333.html

 

right on, thanks bud, i may return some parts here soon then. I appreciate everyone's input!

[RPM 1,190]

I went the speedway route for the adapters and made my steering link adjusters. To check bumpsteer I cycled the spindle thru its range of motion w/o the spring and checked for toe change after moving the steering link rod end on the adapter. You want the least amount of toe change possible. No idea how it drives, but it looks nice in the shop.

 

 

[70769 18]

Looks nice indeed sir!

[fvike 173]

 how is it on the street? do you do any long drives with it? how does it do? I want to take mine up in the mountains later this year and i dont want to be exhausted when i get there.

 

Never had any problems with it. I've driven the car on 100 mile vactions without ever offering it a thought. Also, this is me, taking it up a serpentine mountain road here in Norway. No sweat. I also got the TCP power rack.

[RPM 1,190]

Good lord what a beautiful drive!

[RPM 1,190]

Looks nice indeed sir!

Why thank you sir!

[fvike 173]

Good lord what a beautiful drive!

We're going off-topic here, but this is how it looks like. This road is just 45 minutes from my parents' home place, so we're in the area every summer.

 

 

 

To keep it slightly relevant; no issues whatsoever with the TCP bumpsteer kit on this road! :D

[70769 18]

Never had any problems with it. I've driven the car on 100 mile vactions without ever offering it a thought. Also, this is me, taking it up a serpentine mountain road here in Norway. No sweat. I also got the TCP power rack.

 

We're going off-topic here, but this is how it looks like. This road is just 45 minutes from my parents' home place, so we're in the area every summer.

 

 

 

To keep it slightly relevant; no issues whatsoever with the TCP bumpsteer kit on this road! :D

is that ceausescu's folley, The Transfăgărășan highway?

 

thanks for all your input sir!