prayers1 153 Report post Posted February 28, 2015 I had both full quarters and rear frame rails replaced over a year ago. I have 15x8 4.5bs Magnum 500's on the rear. I'm determine to use 15x10 Magnums with 295/50/15 wheels. I just got the Magnum 500's, 15x10 w/ 5.5 bs. On each side (RH & LH) there is a 3/4" gap between the leafspring and tire. The LH side tire sticks out 5/16's pass the wheel lip. The RH side is 1/8 inside the wheel lip ( I assume the bodyshop didn't measure correctly). I'd like to get (1) custom wheel made with a 5.75 bs for the LH side, that will give me a 1/2" gap between the leafspring and tire, this will get the tire lined up with the wheel lip a 1/16th or 1/8th with inside the wheel lip. I thought of moving the spring perch, but that is more work and I don't think it will help anyways. What do you think about the 1/2" gap. Would you do it??? Any other thoughts????? Thanks for your input! 2 IsobelTic and Ronaldbaf reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
barnett468 418 Report post Posted February 28, 2015 . yes. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
prayers1 153 Report post Posted February 28, 2015 I'm sorry, but yes to which one and why. I posted here to get opinions. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Brian Conway 264 Report post Posted February 28, 2015 So the 295 tire is for looks or for the drags ? If there for the drags I guess your not planning letting any air out or hard launch's ? Brian Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
prayers1 153 Report post Posted February 28, 2015 Only for looks. I was wondering if it will touch when cornering, such as the clover turn when getting off a highway. If it did touch, what about shaving the leafspring where it touches. I haven't came across that problem but it was a thought. Thanks for your help! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Crazyhorse 21 Report post Posted February 28, 2015 You can't trim the spring. It will create a stress riser and will break. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
miketyler 15 Report post Posted February 28, 2015 1/2" is plenty...you should see what my clearances are. And you can trim springs though not many do it today. Some of the old school drag racers did it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
det0326 179 Report post Posted February 28, 2015 prayers1 Just curious have you measured from outside edge of spring/spring perch to the flange of your rear end to see if the rear end is off center or if there is another problem. Didn't know if you may have had a rear end modify or something. Dave Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
prayers1 153 Report post Posted February 28, 2015 Thanks for confirming the 1/2" clearence. I'm real HAPPY that you did! I really like the wide 295/50/15 tire look on my car. Air shocks are on now, since I can't find the right height I''m looking for. After I figure out this tire situation then I have to change to a stiffer leaf spring. The car still has the original leafs. det0326 No, I haven't checked spring perch to spring measurement, if that's what your asking? I'll look into it. Here's a picture with Weld wheels 15x10 w 5.5bs on 295/50/15's. The Magnum 500's and BFG tire is 3/16ths wider. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
det0326 179 Report post Posted February 28, 2015 My concern prayers was that I didn't know if you may had the rear modified at some point and spring perches re welded and may be off a little. You mentioned in your first post that you had quarters replace and said they may not have measured correctly. I would hate to think they missed aligning the frame rails that much. So a good way to tell is measure from spring perch to the flange on the rear end where the backing plate is mounted. IIRC the measurement from the edge to the inside of the flange should be about 6 1/2 on each side. Just trying to figure out what was off but at this point you may not care just want to correct as needed. Dave Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
prayers1 153 Report post Posted February 28, 2015 It's a stock rebuilt 9". It's too late now, but when the car was being put back together, I went through all of the trouble of getting the spec measurements for the shop. After we discovered the difference, I asked if they used it and they said NO, just by eye. I guess I'm glad it was only 9/16th's difference. Just to be clear, your saying to measure from the brake backing plate to the spring perch? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
det0326 179 Report post Posted February 28, 2015 Actually from the smaller flange that is made to the rear end tube from the inside of that flange to the edge of the outer side of the perch. I was wrong on the measurement tho the 6 1/2 was to the inside edge the outer edge is 4". Sorry abut that I was going on my old memory and I'm at an age that that doesn't work that well anymore. I went out and measured my stock rear end and that is the stock unmolested measurement. Dave Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
prayers1 153 Report post Posted March 2, 2015 det0326- I have the 28 spline 9", If I understand correctly, I measured where the tube started to taper to the spring perch. LH side is 8", RH side is 12". I don't see how this will effect my spacing, because one side of the tube is longer than the other and it's an original rear. I think when they welded in the 1/4's, they messed up. I redid my figures and it seems I'll have a 1/4 gap between the leaf and tire. If I go to a 6" bs. Do they sell shims in an 1/8 or 1/4 width, incase the 6"bs is too tight??? Is that acceptable??? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Protowrxs 111 Report post Posted March 2, 2015 You can get 1/8 or 1/4 inch wheel spacers to move them out if needed. Just make sure you have enough wheel stud. It's always easier to space out than space in obviously. Having the tires tucked in always looks much better IMHO. That's my two cents anyhow. Stephen Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MikeStang 247 Report post Posted March 2, 2015 You should be Okay with the 1/4" gap, thats about what I have and I dont have any rubbing issues, altho I do have 40 series tires so they are a little stiffer on the sidewall because they are shorter. I wouldn't sweat the difference in 1/4 panel alignment, you may find that if you replace the bushings in the leaf springs and leave everything loose and sit the car down on the springs then take if for a slow ride around the block it may settle in some more and may align a bit better Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
det0326 179 Report post Posted March 2, 2015 Sorry for any confusion Prayers1, I know my replies wasn't what you were asking. The measurements I was asking about was to determine if your quarters were the problem or maybe the spring perch/pads were welded on a little off causing the difference from side to side. If it is a stock mustang rear end tho I guess that is not the problem but if the rear end was the problem and you wanted to correct it at some point it would be a much easier fix than the quarters for sure. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
buening 63 Report post Posted March 2, 2015 Here is my clearance with 315/45/17 tires. No rubbing on the leaf spring as of yet. Tire deflection occurs mostly near the ground, and the leaft is at the halfway point of the tire. I wouldn't expect much tire deflections unless you are autocrossing on tall wall tires. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
prayers1 153 Report post Posted March 2, 2015 Buening- It looks like you have a 1/4" gap. Am I right. Did you relocate the leafspring strap? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
prayers1 153 Report post Posted March 2, 2015 Buening- Forgot to ask what your bs is. Mike- I still have the original leafs, only the rear shackle and busing was replaced. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
buening 63 Report post Posted March 3, 2015 Yeah its about 1/4". No mods to the leaf springs at all. Not sure if my leafs are original or aftermarket, but they are 4-leaf. I have new bushings front and rear. BS is 6.8" with 1/2" spacer (6.3" net backspace) More info:1969stang.com/forum/index.php?/topic/45710-maximum-rubbergirl-gets-some-new-shoes/ Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
prayers1 153 Report post Posted March 3, 2015 Thank you buening for that info. Thats a lot of bs. I've been told on another site that if I have a 5.5 bs on one wheel and a 6" on another that the 1/2" difference would be very noticable and that the rear would dogtrack. I do not have wheels to place side by side to see for myself, also I thought if the tire width is different than the other, it would cause dogtracking. IMO I was going to get a wheel made with a 6" bs and buy 1/4 and 1/8th shimes and see how it fits. Now others are making me rethink this. Obviously, the Bodyshop welded in the 1/4 panel, full wheel well tub and frame rail out farther then the other side and I can't make those corrections. If the leafspring bolted in points are fixed, I don't know what else to do?I'm just looking for avenues to take, to be able to use the 295/50/15 tire with a 15x10 magnum 500. All I really need is 3/16s to pull in on the LH side. Any ingenious ideals from you guys. Keep the ideals coming, I gotta do this! 1 Ernestgaig reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
buening 63 Report post Posted March 3, 2015 I would set up strings parallel to the car on each side (how DIY guys check toe alignment on AWD cars), to make sure it is indeed the frame alignment or quarter panel that is off. It would also let you know if the axle is off center or not. I use metal conduit on a pair of jack stands at each end of the car, with fishing line tied to each conduit. Measure string spacing at each end so they are parallel, then measure random locations along the car that are known correct points (rocker, door, front frame, etc) to make sure the parallel strings are parallel to the car. You can then compare location of the leaf springs and rear hub face to see how offset they are. An easier method would be to measure from the yoke to the front of the car in locations that are fixed and original (frame rail). Did you use the mustang frame diagram and do spot measurements to determine if the frame was installed correctly? I don't have the 69 but below is the 70 (likely the same) In terms of a fix, I don't see a way without having the dogtrack issues.....but I question how much it would take to be noticeable (these aren't exact spec cars). Moving the spring pads on the axle tubes would be the same as uneven wheel spacers, since I am assuming the axle was centered before. I will mention that my axle is not perfectly centered under the car, and it is common for them to be offset to one side as much as 1/2". I think I measured 3/8" or so difference from face of tire to edge of rear quarter. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
det0326 179 Report post Posted March 3, 2015 Prayers1 Is your rear end a stock mustang that has never had the leaf spring perches removed and welded back on? I agree with buening as to how to check for alignment of frame rails and quarters. I have been following your thread on VMF as well. Some of the guys over there makes a lot of sense some others well I don't know. At this point if you sure that the rear end is not the culprit of the alignment problem then I would do as buening said and find out just how much out of alignment it really is and in what direction. Then you would know if moving the wheel inward is going to improve tracking or make it worse. It could be that your tracking is OK the way that it is and I'm with buening I don't know if 3/16 would even make a difference.At least if you check it tho you will at least know. Dave Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
prayers1 153 Report post Posted March 4, 2015 Tonight I measured diagonally from a fixed point to the center of the yoke and to my surprise both were the same. I then measure from the center of the yoke to the traction bar and the RH side was 1/8th shorter. I think it might be best if I can get the backspace at 5 3/4" for both wheels, then if the RH side is too far in I can get a 1/8 spacer. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
prayers1 153 Report post Posted March 4, 2015 RH side 3/16ths out Another with a straight edge. Here's the RH side that is an 1/8 in. Here's the LH inner wheel well. The leafspring has a 3/4" clearence. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
