69volunteer 84 Report post Posted February 3, 2015 Still trying to track down the correct temp sender to solve my gauge reading high. Someone posted a listing (probably from the service manuals I have stacked in a corner) that listed the correct Motorcraft/Autolite temp sender part numbers for the various engines. I cant find it doing a search. Can someone re-post? If anyone has a used one for a 302, let me know. Also, would the fact that I changed intakes have any effect? I assume the sender is roughly in the same depth/position as original. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Brian Conway 264 Report post Posted February 3, 2015 I don't think a different intake manifold will make any difference. Brian Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
69volunteer 84 Report post Posted February 3, 2015 I thought it was you Brian. Thanks for reposting. Now the fun of trying to find one.... Thanks Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TexasEd 188 Report post Posted February 3, 2015 I bought one from NPD a while back, part number 10884-2. About $11. It's installed in my manifold but the manifold is not on the engine right now and I have not tested it yet. I might have the old one laying around. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
barnett468 418 Report post Posted February 3, 2015 ok, you are in sender hell. you must find a used orig if you want orig . . there are no new 69 and later ones avail . . the 66 one is fairly close. i can tell you how to make most senders work if you want. you will have to add a 30 cent resistor to it, but you also need to boil your sender and find out what ohm it has at around 220 - 240 degrees . . this is easy to do. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Brian Conway 264 Report post Posted February 4, 2015 I thought it was you Brian. Thanks for reposting. Now the fun of trying to find one.... Thanks The nos senders are around but expect to pay around $35. Pay particular attention to the SW# very important. Brian Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
69volunteer 84 Report post Posted February 4, 2015 The 552 says for 8cyl excluding 302 & 351. You are running a 428 right? I saw one on ebay but it was $125 sold. Makes me a little worried. They are all tagged "Boss 302" to jack up the price. I didn't realize they were called Temp Bulb. I'll have to try googling that too. Ed--I would hold onto the original if you haven't tried the repro yet. I ordered a scott drake one, one from Napa and one other (O'Reilly?). All different brands (the one from Scott Drake was in their packaging). They all make my gauge read hot. Someone said that Ford dealers may still have them but I haven't started calling around. Trying to find parts cars with the engines still in them that I can rob the sender from. I am hesitant on the resistor idea because (and I am no expert) effectively you are adding resistance in the line and if the car overheats, the gauge is not going to be accurate except at normal operating temp? I would like to learn more about this. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Brian Conway 264 Report post Posted February 4, 2015 http://www.rearcounter.com/images/main_page_rotator1.jpg Brian Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
barnett468 418 Report post Posted February 4, 2015 The 552 says for 8cyl excluding 302 & 351. You are running a 428 right? I saw one on ebay but it was $125 sold. Makes me a little worried. They are all tagged "Boss 302" to jack up the price. I didn't realize they were called Temp Bulb. I'll have to try googling that too. Ed--I would hold onto the original if you haven't tried the repro yet. I ordered a scott drake one, one from Napa and one other (O'Reilly?). All different brands (the one from Scott Drake was in their packaging). They all make my gauge read hot. Someone said that Ford dealers may still have them but I haven't started calling around. Trying to find parts cars with the engines still in them that I can rob the sender from. I am hesitant on the resistor idea because (and I am no expert) effectively you are adding resistance in the line and if the car overheats, the gauge is not going to be accurate except at normal operating temp? I would like to learn more about this. no, no, no . . i will tell you EXACTLY how tp do this if you want to but you nreed to boil your sender in a pan of salt water . . you need a candy thermometer and an ohm meter. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
barnett468 418 Report post Posted February 4, 2015 I thought it was you Brian. Thanks for reposting. Now the fun of trying to find one.... Thanks The nos senders are around but expect to pay around $35. Pay particular attention to the SW# very important. Brian . there is no such thing as a $35.00 nos sender anymore . . good luck with that. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Brian Conway 264 Report post Posted February 5, 2015 Well that ship may have sailed but I got both of mine last January 2014 for less that $35. Yes I am driving a 428 car and the senders are for that motor. The Autolite posted above $33 and the Motorcraft postedbelow $26. Didn't happen over night and I did have to spend some time looking around. Brian Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MAD IN NC 21 Report post Posted February 5, 2015 beyond the unit itself. Suggest getting a Harbor Freight IR Temp gun for ~$25 when they go on sale. Check the temp when car is hot at base of sender and then compare to the gauge. http://www.harborfreight.com/non-contact-infrared-thermometer-with-laser-targeting-69465-8905.html I fought temp issues for months on a SBC and I needed a solid reading to align with temp gauge to insure that I had the proper sending unit. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
69volunteer 84 Report post Posted February 5, 2015 I've got the IR temp gun and it reads fine at 180 after warm up. The problem is the gauge is at the line all the way to the right (not pegged) but all the way to the right. If it did start to over heat, I would never know until it started puking. Barnett--i'll PM you.... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
barnett468 418 Report post Posted February 6, 2015 I've got the IR temp gun and it reads fine at 180 after warm up. The problem is the gauge is at the line all the way to the right (not pegged) but all the way to the right. If it did start to over heat, I would never know until it started puking. Barnett--i'll PM you.... ok, i'll be around or i will be happy to post the info here . . doesn't matter to me. as far as the ir gun goes, i have seen some of the less expensive ones be off by up to 20 degrees, so it you are uncertain of its accuracy, i would check it against something else to verify.. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Brian Conway 264 Report post Posted February 6, 2015 Pictures; Actual Temperature and actual resistance measures at sender. How to test the sender when installed and the tools you will need. Brian Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
barnett468 418 Report post Posted February 6, 2015 . Unfortunately, you can not get the car hot enough to give you a reading at, at least 200 degrees and preferable 220 – 230 degrees and since the higher readings are the most important this test isn’t as helpful as testing the sender in a pan of salt water, especially if the sender is aftermarket. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
