What year carb will fit 69 Mustang?

[sidstang 10]

I just bought a 302 engine out of a 68 Mustang and putting it in a 69 Mustang. I don't have a carb for it. The intake is an Edelbrock Torker 289 setup for a 4 bbl. I want to get a used carb from a bone yard but am not sure which years will fit. Any help would be appreciated!

Thanks!

Sid

[cobra3073 24]

I would think that any square bore carburetor will PHYSICALLY fit. You could use any 4V non-spread bore carburetor from Ford (or any other manufacturer for that matter). Prior to the mid or early '70s, just about any original "Factory" 4V would have been square bore so they would all FIT. While a lot look the same and will fit, they often have different flow rates.

 

I am not sure what you are trying to do but you need to keep in mind that the old Torker 289 is a single plane intake that is designed for operating in the 2500-6500 RPM range. If your are planning on using the Torker, you really should not be concerned with a "stock" Ford carburetor as there are many, many different ones utilized by Ford with all kinds of different flow rates.

 

Knowing your intentions for the car might garner you a more specific response here on the site for your application.

 

Hope this help!

 

BT

[Protowrxs 111]

Like cobra said any "square bore" carb will fit but personally I'd look on local Craigslist for a working 600cfm or smaller vacuum secondary Holley. Should work well on a basically stock engine and easy to rebuild as well. Also like cobra said the torker isn't the best low end intake but will work ok especially with a stick car.

[sidstang 10]

The car is AT. I am just putting it back together as a daily driver. So a carb from 69-early 70s with a 600 cfm is what I should look for?

Thanks for the replies!

[cobra3073 24]

Do you know the "history" of the rest of the motor?

 

The fact that it apparently had the single plane" Torker" on it suggest to me that the motor might have been set up for high RPM use. If that is the case, just going out and finding a 600CFM carburetor may not really make for a good daily driver...especially with your AT and (I would guess) high (low numerical) rear gears.

 

The motor is part of a system and everything needs to be geared toward ensuring that the "parts" are compatible for the intended use of the car.

 

Again, many on the site can probably give you general information but there are a LOT of unknowns before anyone can reasonably expect to provide a response that will be in your best interest for what you may be trying to do. We really need more information, in my opinion.

 

BT

[Rsanter 152]

Holley,,carter, or my,preference would be to,use a 595cfm autolite 4100 series from a big block

That's what I am running on the 302 in my 69

 

Bob

[sidstang 10]

I'm not sure what info you need. When I bought the car, it was a plain Jane 302 two owner car. The 2nd owner tore out the motor & trans to rebuild it, but some parts were missing when I bought it. So instead of piecing together the original motor, I bought a used 302 engine from a guy who pulled it from a running Mustang. It came with headers. He swapped it out for a bigger motor. He didn't include the carb with the motor, so I need to find one somewhere. Would it be better for me to switch the intake to accommodate a 2bbl carb? I just want to put it back together as a daily driver.

Thanks for the help!

[1969_Mach1 333]

For a basically stock daily driver, if it were my car I would install an Edelbrock 600 CFM carb. Either their Performer series or Thunder series. You can contact Edelbrock's tech support if you want more specifics and help with a selection. They need minimal adjustments and are reliable for daily drivers.

[SA69mach 39]

Not sure if you think you need a 'period' correct carburetor for that engine.

You don't.

You match the carburetor to the car in terms of flow, as required by the engine size and the state of tune.

High compression, big horsepower engines need more fuel, hence a larger, more sophisticated carburetor

Drag cars need massive fuel instantly, so double pumpers and big accelerator pumps and squirters

 

For your running 302, I would like to know what sort of build was done, or if it is a stock engine. Stock camshaft, stock heads?

 

Your single plane torker manifold is designed for big flow carbs and manual transmissions. The dual plane manifolds have a divider under the carb to help with smooth transitions and uniform fuel feed to cylinders under street driving conditions.

 

You could consider a more suitable intake, since it is an easy job to change it out. YOu may like the Torker. Try it first. Save some money . Also good idea to avoid changing lots of things at once, especially when changing out carburetors.

 

You would be wise to consider a new carburetor, rather than a junk yard find. Absolutely no need to get a 1969 carburetor for that engine. In fact, you will be almost certain to be up for a rebuild on any old carburetor.

All the many available and suitable carburetors for the Ford 302 will have all the linkages and ports needed for your engine.

 

I like the Holley Street Avenger 570 for a stock 302. 670 if you have good heads and a cam.

Many folks like the Edelbrock. I do not prefer them. QuickFuel carburetors are also very popular, as well as Summit Brand carburetors

[sidstang 10]

Not sure if you think you need a 'period' correct carburetor for that engine.

You don't.

You match the carburetor to the car in terms of flow, as required by the engine size and the state of tune.

High compression, big horsepower engines need more fuel, hence a larger, more sophisticated carburetor

Drag cars need massive fuel instantly, so double pumpers and big accelerator pumps and squirters

 

For your running 302, I would like to know what sort of build was done, or if it is a stock engine. Stock camshaft, stock heads?

 

Your single plane torker manifold is designed for big flow carbs and manual transmissions. The dual plane manifolds have a divider under the carb to help with smooth transitions and uniform fuel feed to cylinders under street driving conditions.

 

You could consider a more suitable intake, since it is an easy job to change it out. YOu may like the Torker. Try it first. Save some money . Also good idea to avoid changing lots of things at once, especially when changing out carburetors.

 

You would be wise to consider a new carburetor, rather than a junk yard find. Absolutely no need to get a 1969 carburetor for that engine. In fact, you will be almost certain to be up for a rebuild on any old carburetor.

All the many available and suitable carburetors for the Ford 302 will have all the linkages and ports needed for your engine.

 

I like the Holley Street Avenger 570 for a stock 302. 670 if you have good heads and a cam.

Many folks like the Edelbrock. I do not prefer them. QuickFuel carburetors are also very popular, as well as Summit Brand carburetors

 

Thanks for the info. I thought I needed a "period" carb. Can I use a carb from a Chevy block? I understand your concern about using a junk yard carb, but I don't want to spend a lot of money on one. I basically want to get a carb on the motor to make sure the engine runs. I expect to buy a rebuild kit for any used carb I buy.

Regarding history of the engine, it is a stock motor. The only mods I am aware of are the intake and headers.

I appreciate all the info!

[SA69mach 39]

You will need a carb that has the provision for the Ford kick-down linkage. A carburetor taken off a Chevrolet is not likely to have a Ford A/T kick-down. So, no, not without adding the Ford kick-down.

 

on this ebay item you can see the arrangement on the side.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Holley-0-80457SA-600CFM-4bbl-Factory-Refurbished-ALUMINUM-Carb-Electric-Choke-/281504455168?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item418af91a00&vxp=mtr

 

The throttle cable pulls the lever for...well, throttle.....and the Ford A/T kick-down is a rod that comes up from the transmission, and connects to the throttle lever also. At WOT when driving it triggers the trans (by actuating a vacuum can) to drop the gear down for rapid acceleration.

 

I would try to avoid purchasing a second hand carburetor without a written and binding warranty. They are complicated items when they are running perfectly. If you get one with a casting fault, or a crack or a warp, or other defect, then it can be a bear to diagnose the problem if the car does not run well. Previous owner may have messed with it until it wont run, and selling it.

Unless you know carbs well, and do a thorough and perfect re-build, you could get into a mess. YouTube is your friend and you can get a rebuild kit easily enough for about 30 dollars, but it is not Lego.

 

For what it is worth, you would be wise to borrow a carb that is known to be a good runner on a Ford 302 and use that for a run test, and see how your engine runs.

 

You cant put a garbage carburetor on an engine and expect it to run well. If you want a good, cheap carb, then hunt CL, ebay or swap meets and get one that suits your car, and do a full refurbish and rebuild slowly and carefully.

600 cfm, Ford A/T kick-down, square bore 4 barrel, electric choke, vacuum secondary, adjustable fuel floats - minimum requirements.

[MAD IN NC 21]

You never told us what hood you have? If you have a shaker hood - height and space will be the factor.

 

I use to run an Eldebrock and know have a Holley.... For what you are trying to accomplish I suggest the Eldebrock - easy to install, worked for me right out of the box and linkage all set.

[1969_Mach1 333]

Thanks for the info. I thought I needed a "period" carb. Can I use a carb from a Chevy block? I understand your concern about using a junk yard carb, but I don't want to spend a lot of money on one. I basically want to get a carb on the motor to make sure the engine runs. I expect to buy a rebuild kit for any used carb I buy.

Regarding history of the engine, it is a stock motor. The only mods I am aware of are the intake and headers.

I appreciate all the info!

 

 

If you plan on rebuilding a used carb I would search through Edelbrock's website for a suitable 600 cfm carb. Note the model numbers and start searching through EBay. Whatever you select, be sure it has the appropriate linkage to attach the kick-down linkage to your C4 trans. I do prefer Holley's for performance, but Edelbrock's are better suited for daily drivers. I will add, be cautious of extremely used Edelbrock carbs. I've seen old Carter AFB and AVS carbs which are now Edelbrock's Performance and Thunder series, wear the metering rod piston bores in the main bodies. At that point they are no longer repairable. The other common high wear area of any carb regardless of brand are the throttle shaft bores. Those are repairable. Although off-the-shelf bushing kits are not available for many carbs.

Edited December 28, 2014 by 1969_Mach1

[jholmes217 65]

I would replace that intake manifold also. I ran that intake manifold in a 4 speed 67 Mustang with a 3.00 geared rear end, and that thing was a dog off the line until about 2500 rpm, then it would start to pull strong. It was on the car when I bought it. I performed much better after I switched to a Weiand Action Plus. I would see about picking up an Edelbrock Performer or Weiand Action Plus 8011 dual plane intake manifold, then go with a 500 to 600 cfm 4v vacuum secondary carb. You should be able to pick up a Holley, Edelbrock, or Autolite 4100 for less than $100 on Craigslist and rebuild it.

 

If your plans are to later add more power, then maybe go with a Edelbrock Performer RPM or a Weiand Stealth intake manifold.

[juit 34]

Holley avenger 570 worked great for me

[Max Power 74]

As stated, I would not entertain the idea of a used carb. They are too much of a crapshoot and you often spend more time and effort getting them to run right that just getting new. You will not need an expensive 4v to run great.

[RogerC 136]

Since you say the engine is stock except for the manifold you should be able to pick up a stock 4V manifold pretty easy and cheaply then put a new carb on it. Maybe check local carb shop (ie, Chris's Carbs in Dayton) for a decent used carb. They may have a cheap rebuild for sale. That is if your goal is to only get it running decently which is what I understand is all you want to do versus messing with aftermarket parts.

[1969_Mach1 333]

I wouldn't install a stock 4V manifold only because the venturi holes are too small for most aftermarket 4V carbs. So, you are restricted to an original carb or an adapter with an aftermarket carb. If you desire to switch out the intake manifold for a dual plane style I would first go with a Weiand Stealth then a second choice of an Edelbrock Performer RPM.

 

I agree with Max Power that used carbs are a gamble. Often, something is worn beyond a simple repair. But I don't know what kind of budget he has for a carb.