RPM 1,256 Report post Posted June 10, 2017 Holy smokes, that's quite a resume. You got skeelz. I've got some serious engineer envy. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mach1 Driver 603 Report post Posted June 10, 2017 4 hours ago, RPM said: Holy smokes, that's quite a resume. You got skeelz. I've got some serious engineer envy. No kidding... but without pictures there's no proof ! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mustangmike6996 34 Report post Posted June 14, 2017 mwye0627, are you located in the Metro Detroit area? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mwye0627 44 Report post Posted June 14, 2017 (edited) On 6/10/2017 at 6:19 AM, Mach1 Driver said: No kidding... but without pictures there's no proof ! Pictures were hard to come by working in Prototype Development, but I'll try to come up with some stuff I'm working on for my own stuff... Edited June 14, 2017 by mwye0627 Replied to double posts Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mwye0627 44 Report post Posted June 14, 2017 2 hours ago, mustangmike6996 said: mwye0627, are you located in the Metro Detroit area? Yes, I'm currently in the Ann Arbor area... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mustangmike6996 34 Report post Posted June 26, 2017 I finally got the 4 speed shifter linkage adjusted properly. The car shifts like butter now. Took it on a few mile cruise. I'm about to pull the trigger on a set of gauges. Leaning towards New Vintage still. Any other input? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mustangmike6996 34 Report post Posted September 27, 2017 It's been a long couple months. Found metal in my oil. When I upgraded to the 351 roller retrofit cam, I missed the part about installing a 2-peice fuel pump eccentric. It wore into the timing cover and ate up the bearings. New set of bearings, checked clearances and assembled. I put some other goodies on it as well. It got a T-sump Canton oil pan and an Edelbrock water pump. Runs much better and cooler now. Oil looks good so far. I needed to replace a wheel stud and noticed a little play in the lower ball joint. They were new about 7 years ago and only have about 200 miles on them. So I need new lower ball joints or control arms. Any suggestions on replacements? Should I upgrade to an aftermarket product like Global West tubular What about replacing the ball joint by itself? Or getting a replacement lower control arm (which brand should I go with) I see Rare Parts, Precision, and Duralast (It looks like I might be able to get Moog for $55) are the only main options from parts stores. What about boxing in the lower control arms myself? Is it worth it? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
