Things are starting to come together

[mustangmike6996 34]

just put in a $500 order to NPD.  Got some odds and ends installed. 

 

Installed the roof weatherstrip trim and seals

Installed all of the passenger door hardware

Glued the truck seal in place

Set the driver and passenger door seals in place to let them settle.

 

 

 

Need to finish:

Tweak driver inner bumper support (got bent and put back on the car)

Front end trim

Headlamp buckets

Pressure test cooling system (replaced T-stat housing to add temp switch)

Rebuild carb (Holley 650 DP)

Cut and buff 2 sags in the clear

Install interior quarter trim

Reattach headliner to windshield and door openings

Install rear glass

Buy and install front windshield

Adjust 4 speed linkage

Wire HVAC

Buy and install a radio (don't really need one other than to fill the hole in the dash)

[barnett468 418]

I started cleaning the trim I am going to reuse and I installed the door hardware, regulators and glass.

 

I wish you the best of luck aligning the glass, especially if it has ever been re-glued.

[mustangmike6996 34]

Oddly enough, they are both bolt-in style glass so its not too bad.  I have it pretty close to aligned but I need to tweak it a bit.

[mustangmike6996 34]

Need a little help/confirmation with the headlamps

 

I broke a trim retaining ring trying to get the spring to secure it in place. 

 

I took the bulb cup out of the headlamp bucket and examined it, the hole for the spring and trim ring do not exactly line up, maybe 1/8" off.  The spring is pulling on only the trim (which is why it broke)  I have 5001 and 5006 bulbs, in the proper locations for hi/low beam.  The tabs are sitting in the recessed square notch.  What advice do you guys have?

[Caseyrhe 650]

Spring doesn't actually attach to the light cup, only on the trim ring itself. When the light and ring are in place, the end of the spring goes in that hole in the cup.

[mustangmike6996 34]

Ah, thank you. 

 

I started to install a trim ring and it broke at the spot weld so I started to get a little carried away making sure it was exact

[Caseyrhe 650]

You can also put one end in a vice and stretch it just a little to help the cause

[mustangmike6996 34]

I might try that, they are brand new springs from NPD

[RPM 1,256]

Not sure if you've seen this headlight install video yet, but it explains the process nicely.

 

https://youtu.be/hYJ5t3gis6U

[barnett468 418]

just put in a $500 order to NPD.

Buy and install a radio (don't really need one other than to fill the hole in the dash)

 

 

i can get you scott drake, tmi, and distinctive industries parts at a discount.

 

I have a new radio bezel in my garage if you need it.

[mustangmike6996 34]

Thanks for the offer, I have a bezel already.

 

 

I was able to get the headlamps installed.  I did use the suggestion of stretching the springs before install and that seemed to make it much easier on the install.

[mustangmike6996 34]

Rebuilt the Holley 650 DP carb

Front and rear glass installed this past Friday. 

Primed/painted/installed a new 20 gal fuel tank

 

I have a few things I plan on taking care of this weekend:

Finish rear valance install

Replace header bolts/new flange gaskets

Install speedo cable

Install fuel filter

Secure shifter boot

Wire reverse light switch

Wire blower motor

Start engine/oil change

Test drive

 

 

What options do I have for rear view mirrors?  I have the original 1969 mirror with the ball coupler but the new windshield came with the 1970 style flat tab.  Do I have to use only the 1970 mirror or can I use my original mirror with a 1970 mount arm?  Orrrrrr can I go with a more modern style? 

 

[mustangmike6996 34]

Anyone?

 

What options do I have for rear view mirrors?  I have the original 1969 mirror with the ball coupler but the new windshield came with the 1970 style flat tab.  Do I have to use only the 1970 mirror or can I use my original mirror with a 1970 mount arm?  Orrrrrr can I go with a more modern style? 

[mustangmike6996 34]

So, I am wrapping things up but I am having a hard time with the steering.

 

I took the car around the block 2 weeks ago but I had a P/S issue.  Sitting there the car turned the wheel hard right.  I pulled the belt and took it for a 1/8 mile lap.  It was a BEAR to steer.  I put the car on jackstands and it is still rough to steer.  The lines look like they are connected correctly.  Steering fluid seems to be close to full.  I have not adjusted the gearbox or control valve.  I removed the ram from the bracket today and it is easy as butter to steer so that rules out a mechanical bind.  It seems like it cant move the fluid through the ram fast enough, I can turn it like 1/2 turn then pressure builds, I pause and get another 1/4 turn then it gets tight again. 

 

Any suggestions?

[mustangmike6996 34]

I ended up swapping the lines to the steering ram and the jittering went away. 

[mustangmike6996 34]

Wrapping up some more small work.  Got the lighting circuits all squared away with the exception of the front parking lamps.

[mustangmike6996 34]

I ended up removing the upper dash pad today to troubleshoot the IP cluster.  No gauges work and the lights are inop. I have voltage at the AAW connector as well as ground.  I think the voltage regulator took a crap and possibly the printed circuit.  I am going to attempt to build a solid-state regulator.  I might upgrade to the New Vintage USA gauges though.  They are local and I have a set of them in my 1951 Ford F1.  I like them but they are pricey. 

[Ridge Runner 1,154]

Oh ,Another Ford truck fan ,two likes

[moodster 55]

I think the ball is a different size on the 1969 mirror.  I know modern mirrors will not work in a 69 mirror mount... I've tried.  I don't know anything about the 70 mirror/mounts.

david

[mustangmike6996 34]

I installed my homemade voltage regulator on the instrument cluster, partial success.  Still having some issues but at least some of the gauges work lol.

 

 

[Mach1 Driver 603]

On 6/2/2017 at 7:38 PM, mustangmike6996 said:

I installed my homemade voltage regulator on the instrument cluster, partial success.  Still having some issues but at least some of the gauges work lol.

 

 

homemade voltage regulator? Inquiring minds want to know

[mwye0627 44]

5 hours ago, Mach1 Driver said:

homemade voltage regulator? Inquiring minds want to know

I would think that a standard, filtered 7805 circuit would be sufficient....     Should be plenty of current, if not, then a simple switching circuit would be pretty simple and accurate enough for the Gauge power....

 

[Mach1 Driver 603]

9 hours ago, mwye0627 said:

I would think that a standard, filtered 7805 circuit would be sufficient....     Should be plenty of current, if not, then a simple switching circuit would be pretty simple and accurate enough for the Gauge power....

 

The gauge circuit has three 10 ohm variable resistors in parallel: temp, oil, and fuel. At 5v that works out to 1.52A, and a 7805 is only good to 1.5A. That's pushing it some, of course not all three resistors are likely to be at minimum resistance at the same time. Cool- are you an electronics engineer?

[mustangmike6996 34]

Yes it is a 7805 Voltage reg with capacitors from input and output to gnd.  I did it as more of a trial to bypass the stock bimetallic constant regulator.  Seemed to work so far.

[mwye0627 44]

On 6/8/2017 at 10:21 AM, Mach1 Driver said:

The gauge circuit has three 10 ohm variable resistors in parallel: temp, oil, and fuel. At 5v that works out to 1.52A, and a 7805 is only good to 1.5A. That's pushing it some, of course not all three resistors are likely to be at minimum resistance at the same time. Cool- are you an electronics engineer?

Yes, I spent 20 years working as an Electronics Design AND Mechanical Design Engineer at Watson Engineering where I developed several projects for Ford, GM, Chrysler, Detroit Diesel, Eaton, Caterpillar and others...    My favorite projects were working on Performance based projects for Ford Racing, where I developed many components, both Electronic and Mechanical, on the the Cobra Jet Drag cars as well as the FR500S and BOSS S road race cars.   I used to be a Crew Chief on a Pro Mod drag car, so my experience came in handy...  :)  

I didn't know the resistance values of the gauges in the cluster so I just threw the 7805 out there...   These days I could have found a cheap switching regulator with higher current capabilities...

I'm currently working on developing a microcontroller based instrument cluster for my 69 Mustang.   I already have the micro stepper motors working great and the control algorithm is spot on. I'm using commercially available pressure transducers and PTC thermistors. I have a 4R70W trans so I'm using the VR output from that for Speedometer and Cruise control inputs ) the cluster software converts the speed pulses to 4000 Revs per Mile for the Cruise Control.

I have a small ( 24" x 48" ) cnc router so I will be making bucks and vacuum forming the Gauge cups to attach to the Mustang Deluxe IP...

The only things I have left to do are the Gauge Cups, and to refine the Graphics. I want them to be Hidden (tinted) gauges like some of the 2013 Mustangs used...   I'm almost there.  I'm trying to use an inkjet printer with Papillio Back-Lit film, but it lets too much light through the Black areas...   I just got another Back-lit Vinyl that looks promising.   I'd hate to have to use Silk Screening for a one off project.

Thanks for your help to ALL on these forums!!!