Things are starting to come together

[mustangmike6996 34]

Well,

 

I have been putting more parts on the car that will be there permanently (as opposed to temporary for test fitment) and it feels pretty good.

 

Recently I have had some minor questions and posted a ton of threads but I think it would be easier to just start this thread and consolidate it all.

 

Soooooo

 

I bought the ACC carpet and It is pretty much a cut to fit. I wish I took it out of the box like a month ago, the back seat carpet is arguably harder to properly install than the seat covers were.

 

I installed the front seat TMI covers and ran out of hog rings for the rear so I am on hold.

 

In the mean time, I have been tying up odds and ends on the car.

 

I started on the AAW harness swap now that most parts are in place. I am impressed by the quality of the harness and it is nice that everything is labelled.

[SA69mach 39]

Glad for you that some things are coming together. Good feeling when things work after installation.

I have done my seats with TMI foams and covers, and found it ...not easy, but it was straightforward, and gives a visible and pleasing improvement to the car - well done, I bet the wrists are still sore! Mine were for two days.

 

I used ACC carpet on my 70 and did not have a lot of fitting to do. I don't know why things are different. Only minor trim around the sills. Maybe I did not do enough trimming. I did use an old electric soldering iron to pierce for any holes. That is a good way to get neat holes that will not fray. It wrecks the soldering iron, though.

 

Hope the AAW harness works out for you. Big job.

[mustangmike6996 34]

Well I have done many seat covers prior to this job so it wasnt too bad but I wish I had taken all of the upholstery out of the box a long time prior to the install.

 

The harness should be straight forward.

[mustangmike6996 34]

Got the headliner in.... for the most part.

 

Im waiting for some trim to dry..... I forgot to paint it so the headline bows are really all that is in right now lol

 

I have a bunch of parts on their way. Still dragging my feet on the harness but I have like 2 weeks off of work so I have nothing but free time to press on

[Max Power 74]

I did use an old electric soldering iron to pierce for any holes. That is a good way to get neat holes that will not fray. It wrecks the soldering iron, though.

 

Hope the AAW harness works out for you. Big job.

 

I used a test light, and it doesn't ruin it.

[Ridge Runner 1,112]

Test light and ice pick works great for finding those holes ,if you miss no big deal it won't leave a mark . A heat lamp in the winter time will soften up the seat covers and headliners ,during the summer i let them sit in the sun for a bit to soften up.It would be tough to put on seat covers cold .

[barnett468 418]

if you need, you can get hog rings from any auto upholstery shop . . most places will just give them to you.

 

you can get them from general upholstery supply stores too.

.

[mustangmike6996 34]

I have 250 coming ($5 on ebay)

 

Do the headliners get spray glued to the insulation pad or just use the bow tension and trim to keep them tight?

[mustangmike6996 34]

Anyone know about the headliner, glue it or just use the bows?

 

 

I have completely finished all of my seats and painted all of my interior panels. I have been slacking on my harness install (still). Its about 1/2 way done.

 

I drywalled my garage and installed a new window. I insulated the walls and ran a couple more outlets. So my garage is more comfortable to work in. I will be replacing the garage door and adding a single car door in the rear to park my jetski trailer in the back of the house.

 

Between that and my 1951 Ford F1 the Mustang took the backburner. I will be working on it again tomorrow since I now have more parts for it.

 

I did find out that my front frame rails are interfering with my bumper brackets and now allowing them to sit flush so that will be a "fun" time fixing that.

[TexasEd 188]

Great. Post pictures of the progress you make. It feels good and feeds the effort.

[jmlay 80]

Only glued at the windshield, rear window & at the doors. The center is supported by the bows.:

 

 

[mustangmike6996 34]

I finished the rear wiring harness and most of the dash harness. I started installing some interior pieces. I need to trim the carpet and install the seats.

 

As far as the headliner..... I found the youtube vids today about how/where to glue it. I had it sitting on the bows for a few days with some tension on it to get the wrinkles out. I originally had the headliner in backwards. I took it out, swapped the bows and put it back in. After I watched the how-to vids today I grabbed some old windlace and stretched the back out but the front really doesnt reach the middle seam of the windshield, it reaches each A-pillar though.

 

Does everyones car have 2 sets of holes for each bow? Mine does, I have tried to swap positions and just cant get it to fit exactly correct so I havent glued it.

 

Also, my car was originally an auto, I have converted it into a 4 speed. I need a clutch interlock switch and I am not sure what it looks like or where it goes

[Ridge Runner 1,112]

They all have two holes ,i can't remember what holes it actually uses with out looking at mine .It helps the install if the headliner is warm ,lets it stretch .Always stretch the front first ,the two wire hooks hold the back bow in the correct position in turn holding every other bow in place as you stretch the front .The front does not wrap over the window lip like the rear does because the wind shield glues to the lip surface and the headliner would interfere . A hair dryer will help stretch out wrinkles but do not get the material to hot ,use medium heat .A heat gun is way to hot .

[Protowrxs 111]

Also, my car was originally an auto, I have converted it into a 4 speed. I need a clutch interlock switch and I am not sure what it looks like or where it goes

 

Did our cars have a safety switch for standards? I know the autos had a neutral safety switch but have never seen any wiring for a safety. I'm rolling my own with a door type switch in the return stop and a relay but it's not a perfect option.

 

Good to hear more progress on your build!

[Ridge Runner 1,112]

If you look carefully at the holes you should be able to tell what holes the bows were in .If one bow was in the lower holes they will all be in the lower holes .

[mustangmike6996 34]

They all have two holes ,i can't remember what holes it actually uses with out looking at mine .It helps the install if the headliner is warm ,lets it stretch .Always stretch the front first ,the two wire hooks hold the back bow in the correct position in turn holding every other bow in place as you stretch the front .The front does not wrap over the window lip like the rear does because the wind shield glues to the lip surface and the headliner would interfere . A hair dryer will help stretch out wrinkles but do not get the material to hot ,use medium heat .A heat gun is way to hot .

 

 

I did the rear first so I will try the other way tomorrow. The front center is about 1.5 inches away from the lip. From the looks of a few other installs I saw, it looked like they glued it and wrapped front and rear to let it dry then trimmed it without gluing it to the outer surface.

 

I had the heater on in the garage today and routinely stretched the wrinkles out and it does look better.

[Ridge Runner 1,112]

I dont think the 69s had a safety switch ,just a back up light switch that hooked to the back of the shifter . The automatic did ,it will only start in neutral or park.

[mustangmike6996 34]

If you look carefully at the holes you should be able to tell what holes the bows were in .If one bow was in the lower holes they will all be in the lower holes .

 

 

There are no witness marks because the car was media blasted and the interior was painted. There is not visible wear marks/elongated hole etc.

[Ridge Runner 1,112]

Yes ,that is exactly how i do it .but try to keep glue off the top of the lip where the window will glue .

[Ridge Runner 1,112]

I just looked at one of my 69s That still has the bows in place ,and the bows are in the rear set of holes.

[mustangmike6996 34]

Awesome. Thanks

[mustangmike6996 34]

Well, I have the interior completely installed. Every single piece is installed, back seat is in and functions. The only thing that I dont have done is the 1/4 windows and weather stripping because I am still in the paint process. Yes, I know most of the back seat components will have to come back out.

[mustangmike6996 34]

They all have two holes ,i can't remember what holes it actually uses with out looking at mine .It helps the install if the headliner is warm ,lets it stretch .Always stretch the front first ,the two wire hooks hold the back bow in the correct position in turn holding every other bow in place as you stretch the front .The front does not wrap over the window lip like the rear does because the wind shield glues to the lip surface and the headliner would interfere . A hair dryer will help stretch out wrinkles but do not get the material to hot ,use medium heat .A heat gun is way to hot .

 

 

Also, thank you. I moved my bows to the rear holes and started with the front as opposed to the rear and that made all of the difference in getting it even.

[Ridge Runner 1,112]

Also, thank you. I moved my bows to the rear holes and started with the front as opposed to the rear and that made all of the difference in getting it even.

You are welcome .

[mustangmike6996 34]

Good news.  I have the American Autowire kit almost fully installed.  I have to do the steering column connector (last big thing) and some odds/ends. I have a couple stray dash wire lights that are close to the center of the dash with no specific location that I can see.  I have a couple stray wires in the engine bay as well.  Fog light feed wire (for aftermarket fog lamps) Hood mounted turn signal indicator connector (deleted the hood scoop and now have a shaker (I might reroute those back into the interior and use them for some dash indicators) There is a 12V switched wire (to my MSD 6A) that I need to attact to keyed power and my cooling fan feed which will be keyed power as well.  So I will most likely tie those together and install my SPAL fan relay kit. 

 

I have some odds and ends on the interior as far as C pillar lights that are currently unplugged. 

 

Everything is pretty much where it needs to be. 

 

Once the harness is complete I can fire the newly re-rebuilt 331 for break-in.  (fingers crossed, the last time it only ran for 1 hr and wiped the cam out so its upgraded to roller now)