New Alternator needed...what kind?

[dlinebar 2]

About 7 years and 10,000 miles ago I put a new alternator and regulator in my car. All has been well until this week and they are no longer charging the car. The wiring is original and at some point was hacked up and I fixed it (7 years ago). I was wondering about going to as single wire alternator. I have read a lot about them and they seem like a good option. I also wanted to go chrome this time. I went with all stock from the local auto store last time.

 

I could go with the original type and a separate regulator but that means using the old wiring etc. It seems like a cleaner solution would be the single wire alternator. I was wondering with the pitfalls were if any. I already converted the original in dash gauge to a volt meter so no issue with the gauge.

 

Soo...pros vs cons of single wire alternator vs original type. Also I see the original was 65 amp and a lot of people go with a 100 amp. That seems overkill and there could be an issue with the wiring harness being able to handle it. I do have an electric radiator fan added and an upgraded stereo but nothing crazy. I found an 80 amp which seems more reasonable to me but I would be the normal rating would work as well.

 

Thoughts

Dan

[Rsanter 152]

Easies way is to get the little conversion box that goes on the back of the alternator. The earlier car guys that had a generator use them. That way you can stay with the ford type alternator for looks and for bracket fitement but still have the one wire type alternator.

I used one on my falcon, works great

 

Bob

[Grabber70Mach 107]

3G ford alternator upgrade out of a 94-95 5.0 Mustang

Edited December 14, 2014 by Grabber70Mach

[Grabber70Mach 107]

Check a company called PA performance

[juit 34]

I put a taurus alternator on mine rated 100 amps for 50 bucks

 

 

 

http://www.1969stang.com/mustang/forum/showthread.php?t=16866

[juit 34]

I put a taurus alternator on mine rated 100 amps for 50 bucks

 

 

 

http://www.1969stang.com/mustang/forum/showthread.php?t=16866

[SA69mach 39]

What has failed on your alternator and regulator?

 

Do you run big power items like sound system that needs 100 amps? If no real need for more power, save the headache, get a reman alternator and solid state regulator.

[SA69mach 39]

What has failed on your alternator and regulator?

 

Do you run big power items like sound system that needs 100 amps? If no real need for more power, save the headache, get a reman alternator and solid state regulator.

[juit 34]

why spend on a reman alternator when you can have a new one to grow with?,

 

when I installed the taurus I have a steady idle even when I turn everything on lights fans etc. I only have a 50 rpm drop , with the stock one i had a 150 or sometimes 200 depending of the climate

[juit 34]

why spend on a reman alternator when you can have a new one to grow with?,

 

when I installed the taurus I have a steady idle even when I turn everything on lights fans etc. I only have a 50 rpm drop , with the stock one i had a 150 or sometimes 200 depending of the climate

[SA69mach 39]

That's why I asked for his power needs and current faults.

 

If he has no need for more power, now or in the near future, just fix the problem, don't make a project on a car with suspect wiring.

[SA69mach 39]

That's why I asked for his power needs and current faults.

 

If he has no need for more power, now or in the near future, just fix the problem, don't make a project on a car with suspect wiring.

[dlinebar 2]

I did add an electric fan and a better stereo with an amp (Nothing crazy like big subs or anything.) I did want to go chrome though. Not staying stock. 90 amps seems like more than enough. I am not sure what failed, the regulator or the alternator, don't really care as I always replace both any time there is an issue. I was really wondering how the single wire was working for people..seems like it works just fine from what I have read. I don't think the stock wiring is that much of an issue as the wire the feeds the battery us upgraded and can handle the current. The Battery is capable of producing hundreds of amps (700 or so) and the car is designed to have that managed with the stock wiring. In other words even with the 60 AMP stock alternator the car could in theory see hundreds of amps from the battery terminal. The care is designed to deal with that and there is no need to upgrade the harness as the only wire that will need to deal with more than stock current is the one connected to the battery from the alternator. It will have to handle 90 amps and not just 60. If I go single wire I would just hide the old existing wiring fir the regulator etc in case I decided to go back stock some time in the future.

 

Dan

[dlinebar 2]

I did add an electric fan and a better stereo with an amp (Nothing crazy like big subs or anything.) I did want to go chrome though. Not staying stock. 90 amps seems like more than enough. I am not sure what failed, the regulator or the alternator, don't really care as I always replace both any time there is an issue. I was really wondering how the single wire was working for people..seems like it works just fine from what I have read. I don't think the stock wiring is that much of an issue as the wire the feeds the battery us upgraded and can handle the current. The Battery is capable of producing hundreds of amps (700 or so) and the car is designed to have that managed with the stock wiring. In other words even with the 60 AMP stock alternator the car could in theory see hundreds of amps from the battery terminal. The care is designed to deal with that and there is no need to upgrade the harness as the only wire that will need to deal with more than stock current is the one connected to the battery from the alternator. It will have to handle 90 amps and not just 60. If I go single wire I would just hide the old existing wiring fir the regulator etc in case I decided to go back stock some time in the future.

 

Dan

[danno 128]

You are going down the right path, considering all options. I did a "load" analysis on one of the chats at this site, and in it I presented my measurements of current required to run the car. The bottom line is that even with a good factory 65 amp alternator, 95% of the time that is all anyone needs. Things that take a lot of amps are halogen lights, radiator fan, AC, and big thumping audio amplifiers. You have lived fine with 60 amps for 10 years, it will work fine for another 10.

 

You are right, even 90 amps is more than enough. You are also right in knowing that changing to a 90 amp alternator means it might try to pump 90 amps in your existing wires. But for you, the only time this could happen is if you discharged you battery and need to jump start the car. Then it could. But for normal operation, it will never put out more that what is needed to run your car normally, and this is at most 40 or 50 amps.

 

You might also know that rebuilt alternators usually do no work as well as new. If you do not have AC, I would go with a nice new chrome factory style and solid state regulator. If you have AC or maybe are considering halogen lights, then a nice chrome 90 amp one will be fine.

 

Danno

[danno 128]

You are going down the right path, considering all options. I did a "load" analysis on one of the chats at this site, and in it I presented my measurements of current required to run the car. The bottom line is that even with a good factory 65 amp alternator, 95% of the time that is all anyone needs. Things that take a lot of amps are halogen lights, radiator fan, AC, and big thumping audio amplifiers. You have lived fine with 60 amps for 10 years, it will work fine for another 10.

 

You are right, even 90 amps is more than enough. You are also right in knowing that changing to a 90 amp alternator means it might try to pump 90 amps in your existing wires. But for you, the only time this could happen is if you discharged you battery and need to jump start the car. Then it could. But for normal operation, it will never put out more that what is needed to run your car normally, and this is at most 40 or 50 amps.

 

You might also know that rebuilt alternators usually do no work as well as new. If you do not have AC, I would go with a nice new chrome factory style and solid state regulator. If you have AC or maybe are considering halogen lights, then a nice chrome 90 amp one will be fine.

 

Danno

[Guillaume69 150]

Powermaster makes nice chrome alternators...

 

http://m.summitracing.com/search/part-type/alternators-and-generators/brand/powermaster/make/ford/engine-size/5-8l-351/engine-family/ford-small-block-windsor/advertised-amperage-output/60-amps?keyword=Alternator

Edited December 17, 2014 by Guillaume69

[Guillaume69 150]

Powermaster makes nice chrome alternators...

 

http://m.summitracing.com/search/part-type/alternators-and-generators/brand/powermaster/make/ford/engine-size/5-8l-351/engine-family/ford-small-block-windsor/advertised-amperage-output/60-amps?keyword=Alternator

Edited December 17, 2014 by Guillaume69

[1969_Mach1 333]

3G ford alternator upgrade out of a 94-95 5.0 Mustang

 

I have a 3G alt as well on mine. It is rated at 95 amps. Works good. A lot better than the original. Whatever you decide, keep in mind the original charge wire might not handle amperage from a high output alternator. I installed a fusible link in mine. I haven't had any issues but my thought was its better to burn up a fusible link than the wiring in the car.

[1969_Mach1 333]

3G ford alternator upgrade out of a 94-95 5.0 Mustang

 

I have a 3G alt as well on mine. It is rated at 95 amps. Works good. A lot better than the original. Whatever you decide, keep in mind the original charge wire might not handle amperage from a high output alternator. I installed a fusible link in mine. I haven't had any issues but my thought was its better to burn up a fusible link than the wiring in the car.

[KevinK 12]

They make a 1 wire unit now with the 1G original type housing. Not sure about chrome.

[KevinK 12]

They make a 1 wire unit now with the 1G original type housing. Not sure about chrome.

[SA69mach 39]

It may be worth getting a test at an auto parts store before making your decision. The electronic device can diagnose battery, alternator and regulator all at once, and pinpoint the fault.

 

You may only need a regulator - 30 bucks, and you are good to go.

 

if you want a new alternator with bigger amps, I also like the Powermaster in chrome.

I recommend "stock" style replacements since over time, I have found that departing from stock items in electrical usually has other issues.

And nothing wrong or bad with the stock arrangement of alternator and regulator on an early Mustang.

 

I would want to know exactly what has failed before going with replacements. Most big parts stores will do the test for free and then go from there.

[SA69mach 39]

It may be worth getting a test at an auto parts store before making your decision. The electronic device can diagnose battery, alternator and regulator all at once, and pinpoint the fault.

 

You may only need a regulator - 30 bucks, and you are good to go.

 

if you want a new alternator with bigger amps, I also like the Powermaster in chrome.

I recommend "stock" style replacements since over time, I have found that departing from stock items in electrical usually has other issues.

And nothing wrong or bad with the stock arrangement of alternator and regulator on an early Mustang.

 

I would want to know exactly what has failed before going with replacements. Most big parts stores will do the test for free and then go from there.