390 4V Engine Build

[1969-Mustang-ZX-427 11]

I've been wanting the idea of a 1969 Ford Mustang GT 390, but rarely see any, I found one that sadly sold to barret Jackson auction and it was a nice Acapulco blue, anyways I've been researching trying to find a motor to replace my straight 6, I've found quite a few 390's on craigs really cheap and might as well get them while there hot, I'm trying to find one from a mustang instead of a thunderbird or etc. But here's my question or prefer questions, does anyone know all the id, codes, numbers, all of them that are marked on the 390 and what they mean? I'm tryin to do research also what is required to switch from a straight six to v8, I know with a 390 i half to upgrade to a 9" Rearend, bigger radiator, upgrade transmission, coil overs, engine mounts, but how much is one of these worth when the 390 looks like it just came out of the factory (the engine, not the car)

[barnett468 418]

there is no such thing as a mustang 390 block code . . your car is not a 390 so getting a correct date code is a total and conmplete waste of time and money . . you do not need coil ovver shocks for a 390 upgrade who told you that you did?. . coil overs are a cosmetic upgrade only . . they dont change the suspension geometry one tiny bit . . if you want a lot of power buy a 428 from a t bird . . buy cj heads or aluminum heads . . be prepared to speend at least 10000.00 dollars and to loose a lot of money if you sell it .

Edited December 14, 2014 by barnett468

[Rsanter 152]

Get the proper 390 block that will take the engine mounts you need to use with the intermediate body car.

Find a Mercury with the 410 engine and take the crank as that is the same as the 428

Build the 390 as a 410 stroker.

Use the aftermarket aluminum heads and intake.

If you want a more stock look, paint them

 

Bob

[prayers1 153]

When looking for part numbers or identification try mustangtek.com

[cobra3073 24]

To my knowledge, ALL 390 blocks are essentially the same. The heads are the "major" difference from the Mustang in that only the 67 - 69 Comets, Cougars, Fairlanes and Mustang were available with the same heads.

 

I agree with the previous comments that make reference (indirectly) to your contemplating a modified or clone Mustang rather than a restoration.

 

If that is the case, it would make more "sense" (in my opinion) to use any available (usable) 390 block and ditch the heavy intake manifold for an aluminum one. It would also make sense to go with aftermarket aluminum heads. These two changes will eliminate any issues/differences as it relates to the 2V vs 4V differences found within the 390 engine subfamily.

 

BT

[1969-Mustang-ZX-427 11]

Alright thanks guys, and I do not plane on selling it at any point, I do have 2 other cars to sell if things get rough, and I dont wanna restore, I wanna make it look stock but still has power under the hood, I found a guy who is selling a block dirt cheap, I went to take a look today and it is in great condition, has no cracks, deep scratches inside the cylinders, nothing and the guy wants $20 for all of them, he says it has rust but it's not that bad http://inlandempire.craigslist.org/pts/4775227625.html I just need to know if it's a 390 and I do plane on putting aluminum heads, intake, etc. Do to since its heavier then the 302 or 351

[barnett468 418]

.

ok, the blocks are the same for 360 and 390.

 

it may need the lifter bores relined which will be around $400.00 . . it needs new crank caps which might be around $250 . . then you need to bore the crank holes to fit the caps which is around $200.00

 

now you gave a good block and just need to buy a crank, rods etc..

 

then as i mentioned, at least $10,000.00 later, you have your big block car.

 

 

here's your 432 ci stroker kit $1.580.00

 

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/esp-158124080/overview/make/ford

 

 

here's your heads $1620.00

 

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-60069/overview/make/ford

 

 

heres a cam $135.00

 

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-33-250-4/overview/make/ford

 

 

2 rocker arms $500 - $800.00

 

 

intake $385.00

 

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-7105/overview/make/ford

 

 

crank damper $200.00

 

.

 

.

Edited December 14, 2014 by barnett468

[1969-Mustang-ZX-427 11]

Alright thanks, and I understand that, I don't plane on dropping it in now or anytime soon, probably sometime in late 2015 or early 2016 to be realistic, I plan on using my inline six but at the time post it for sale so whoever is interested then I can pull it out then

[cobra3073 24]

Just to clarify, that block could be used as a 390 but with that crank, it would have been a 360.

 

The 390 and the 360 share the same block which has a 4.05" bore. The difference is in the stroke of the crankshaft. That 2TA is in fact a cast 360 crankshaft so if it is used in that block, you would have a 360.

 

The D4TE block as indicated by the "T" in the third position indicates this was originally used in a truck. The D4TE block is supposed to have the reenforced web on the mains. It should also have the larger distributor-shaft bore as it utilized the heavy duty, high capacity oil pump with the 5/16" drive shaft.

 

I would surmise that the crankshaft probably did not come with the block originally since it is a cast version. The proper truck crank should have been forged steel and would have made the motor either a 361 or 391. Yes, Ford truck motors were classified as 1" larger than their passenger automobile counterparts.

 

Again, that originally 4.05" bored block "can" be utilized to build a 390 or even something larger dependent upon bore and/or stroke changes.

 

Hope this clears it up and not further confuse.

 

BT

[barnett468 418]

thie web on the right is te extra one he is referring to . . it is used on cobra jet blocks also . . standard bore blocks are HARD to find . . for $20.00 its hard to pass up . . you can wash it then spray it down with wd40 . . then put it on a transmission drip pan and put mix type f tranny 50/50 with acetone and dribble a little around the lifters a few times a day for 3 days . . you can also use kroil oil . . then try to gently tap them out . . if they do not come out you can remove the internals and spray freeze off inside of them then try again while they are still cold . . once they are out, run a brake cylinder hone and wd40 on them for just 2 seconds . . clean the lifter bores . . it they have tiny pits, they are fine . . if they are wasted you can toss the block and you are out $25.00 or buy the lifter bore kit and repair them yourself for around $250.00 after the block is cleaned.

 

next, get the block magged for cracks . . if it is good then have it dipped in caustic soda . . this will remove all the rust in the lifter bore pits and inside the block on the cylinder walls etc..

 

the main caps you need are 427 4 bolt caps . . you will only use 2 bolts.

 

 

.

.

Edited December 14, 2014 by barnett468

[1969-Mustang-ZX-427 11]

Alright sounds good, thanks guys!! What transmission would be good??

[1969-Mustang-ZX-427 11]

Alright sounds good, thanks guys!! What transmission would be good??

[cobra3073 24]

A word of caution.

 

Over the past four (4) years, I have put together the parts to build a stroked 429SCJ (545 CI) for another project. I started off with a relatively cheap 429SCJ block which was the catalyst for the build. I finally gathered all the parts and when I added it all up, it was in excess of $10K. Yes, the motor dyno numbers are north of 700 in HP and torque but I could have ordered a crate motor making the same or greater power for a bit less.

 

As Barnett 468 noted in one of the above post, you are looking at something north of $4500 (conservatively) for the acquisition of only a partial parts list. A quick look on e-bay show a number of 390 engines/ short blocks/long blocks available for considerably less. This includes some 390GT offering if that is what you want. Here is just one example:

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-big-block-390-FE-engine-street-thumper-350-hp-410-tq-galaxie-t-bird-mustang-/251215310395?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a7d996e3b&vxp=mtr

 

Of course, if you plan on taking it slow and acquiring parts over a long period of time or if you just want to put it together yourself, this might not be an option.

 

I am just saying that if it was me, I would go another route.

 

BT

[cobra3073 24]

A word of caution.

 

Over the past four (4) years, I have put together the parts to build a stroked 429SCJ (545 CI) for another project. I started off with a relatively cheap 429SCJ block which was the catalyst for the build. I finally gathered all the parts and when I added it all up, it was in excess of $10K. Yes, the motor dyno numbers are north of 700 in HP and torque but I could have ordered a crate motor making the same or greater power for a bit less.

 

As Barnett 468 noted in one of the above post, you are looking at something north of $4500 (conservatively) for the acquisition of only a partial parts list. A quick look on e-bay show a number of 390 engines/ short blocks/long blocks available for considerably less. This includes some 390GT offering if that is what you want. Here is just one example:

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-big-block-390-FE-engine-street-thumper-350-hp-410-tq-galaxie-t-bird-mustang-/251215310395?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a7d996e3b&vxp=mtr

 

Of course, if you plan on taking it slow and acquiring parts over a long period of time or if you just want to put it together yourself, this might not be an option.

 

I am just saying that if it was me, I would go another route.

 

BT

[1969-Mustang-ZX-427 11]

I know, my dad said the same but my uncle owns a shop and he says I can use it any time I like, but I just decided to find a complete engine instead, I was originally Gonna pay $600 maximum for a engine but that $20 block caught my eye, I think I'll stick with my original plans and just buy a complete with no problems that's just needs a respray, I've found a few for around 350-500

Edited December 16, 2014 by 1969-Mustang-ZX-427

[1969-Mustang-ZX-427 11]

I know, my dad said the same but my uncle owns a shop and he says I can use it any time I like, but I just decided to find a complete engine instead, I was originally Gonna pay $600 maximum for a engine but that $20 block caught my eye, I think I'll stick with my original plans and just buy a complete with no problems that's just needs a respray, I've found a few for around 350-500

Edited December 16, 2014 by 1969-Mustang-ZX-427