1969/70 glass

[Happystang 10]

Just made a killing today picking up some parts. I currently have a '69 convertible and want to change over to the bolt in glass.

 

 

I found a guy parting out a '69 and '70 coupe. The '70 had all the glass in it in perfect shape!

 

 

From the '70:

 

Both doors with all the bolt in glass and mechanisms inside it

Both quarter windows with mechanisms

Frame rail to valance brackets

 

From the '69:

 

16:1 steering box with pitman arm

 

 

Bought all of the above for $350! Very pleased.

 

 

Anyways, few questions about the '70 glass. I see that the quarter window gets glued in as well. The passenger side quarter window's glue failed. What glue do you all use to reattach them?

 

Also, is there a specific measurement for the it ['70 quarter window] to be glued back into bracket? (Don't know the technical term for it)

 

 

 

And lastly, what's the going price for '69 coupe/convertible glue in glass/mechanism? I have a full set in good condition. The door glass has the factory greenish tint, the quarter ones are clear.

[Happystang 10]

Anyone?

[69RavenConv 286]

Use a good urethane windshield adhesive. It's flexible and not brittle which is what you want in an automobile. 3M products are good and you can get them at NAPA. For measurements, use your one good window as a template for the bad one. Here is a thread where I describe how I re-glued mine with great results.

 

http://www.1969stang.com/mustang/forum/showthread.php?t=7596&highlight=urethane&page=2

 

There are other techniques (i.e., West Coast Classic Cougars repair video) that may work as well. It's important that you shim the glass somehow -- either with existing material or rubber shims like I used or something else -- don't just sit the bare glass in a bare metal bracket and glue.

 

I can't comment on the value of '69 hardware but you can surf eBay and Craig's List and get a pretty good idea.

[Happystang 10]

Use a good urethane windshield adhesive. It's flexible and not brittle which is what you want in an automobile. 3M products are good and you can get them at NAPA. For measurements, use your one good window as a template for the bad one. Here is a thread where I describe how I re-glued mine with great results.

 

http://www.1969stang.com/mustang/forum/showthread.php?t=7596&highlight=urethane&page=2

 

There are other techniques (i.e., West Coast Classic Cougars repair video) that may work as well. It's important that you shim the glass somehow -- either with existing material or rubber shims like I used or something else -- don't just sit the bare glass in a bare metal bracket and glue.

 

I can't comment on the value of '69 hardware but you can surf eBay and Craig's List and get a pretty good idea.

 

 

Okay, how close does the window have to be in the channel? I know the front ones on the '69 glass for the channel is like one inch from the front of the window.

 

I don't want to glue the window in the wrong way :)

[Mike65 475]

When I did a couple way back in the late 70's on a 69 Coupe I had then I set the glass in the channels, closed the door & slowly rolled the window up & the weather-strip in the roof channel held it in place until it dried.

[Ridge Runner 1,112]

I believe all 70 glass bolts in ,it's been a while since i worked on a 70 but i am pretty sure only a 69 glues in. Not only do you need the end measurements for a 69 but you will also have to get the correct tilt to the glass and brackets ,otherwise the glass can lean to far in or out .

[Ridge Runner 1,112]

When I did a couple way back in the late 70's on a 69 Coupe I had then I set the glass in the channels, closed the door & slowly rolled the window up & the weather-strip in the roof channel held it in place until it dried.

That would probably be the best way to do it .

[69RavenConv 286]

Here's a pic of a '70 window I acquired back in the '80's. (It's underneath a '69 glass for comparison) I can take measurements tomorrow if you like but it seems the alignment is fairly straightforward - the angled part at the back is flush with the glass..

 

[Happystang 10]

Here's a pic of a '70 window I acquired back in the '80's. (It's underneath a '69 glass for comparison) I can take measurements tomorrow if you like but it seems the alignment is fairly straightforward - the angled part at the back is flush with the glass..

 

 

Thank you so much!! I ended up using some epoxy per a local mustang shop here to glue them in, worked great!

 

 

Just installed all the glass!

 

 

The drivers side fit no problem, everything lines up and works perfectly.

 

 

The passenger side however is giving me a VERY hard time. None of the windows lined up on both sides to begin with when I got the car.

 

 

Problems I'm dealing with:

 

Quarter window wiggles around forward and back a bit, causing the back of the glass to snag on the weather stripping. **forward as in moving towards the front of the car. Not side to side as in parallel to the car. I think it's the bushings that keep the window in the track are going bad, but how are these replaced? They seem glued to their little posts.

 

Also, I have the tilt adjustment on the quarter window maxed out and it's still pointing too far inwards and not lining up with the weather stripping.

 

The passenger door window's tilt (the one that's parallel to the car) has been adjusted to its max. IE the regulator bolt is pushed all the way to the top of its adjustment. Still not making a good seal against the windshield post.

 

There is a 1/4 inch gap between the door window and the roof weather strip. It looks like the window is at the right height, as the top of the glass is even with the end of the windshield post weather stripping. The window refuses to go any higher without having issues closing the door. The weather stripping is new except for the windshield posts, it's like $130 A SIDE for the '69 convertible.

 

 

 

One thing to note, the passenger side of the convertible top sits a little higher than the drivers side. I have to pull down on the top a bit on the passenger side so the top will reach the windshield post to latch down properly. Once in everything seems fine. Just very hard to latch and unlatch that side.

[Ridge Runner 1,112]

There is an adjustment for each side ,it is in the rear truss .It think it is an allen stud with a lock nut .Loosen the nut and turn the allen stud ,the top will move up or down depending on what way you turn the allan stud.I have a top here i will check it tomorrow.I think there is also one in the middle over the door to set the arch .

[mustangstofear 608]

I use urethane.

[Happystang 10]

Okay, I've adjusted the window so the top of the window is level with the bottom of the roof weather stripping.

 

 

It appears that my windshield post is bent down? It doesn't look like this would ever fit unless the windshield is pushed about 1/2 inch upward. It doesn't follow the angle of the window, even with the weather stripping removed.

 

Picture 1:

 

No gap at all, window corner touching the windshield post.

 

Picture 2:

 

3/4 inch gap from window to windshield post.

 

Picture 3:

 

Top of window level with roof weather strip.

 

 

I already have the window pushed as far back as it can go per the adjustments allow. Still this! What gives??

[barnett468 418]

didn't the friendly, knowledgeable, people on vmf know how to fix these things?

 

i can't see your photos well enough to see what is going on 69 windows and the tracks have fallen off and the window was re-glued, it will likely never fit perfect unless you re-glue the brackets on correctly, however i see you have 70 bolt in windows now.

 

on a correct window and pillar post on a hardtop, the front edge of the window will not be perfectly square with the pillar post . . this is a factory design flaw . . line the top of the windows so it is parallel with the weatherstrip . . on a convert you are kinda screwed if your top is not perfectly installed.

 

if your window is around 3/8" - 1/2" away from the pillar at the widest part with the weatherstrip removed, and it hits the rear window, the rear window needs to go rearward.

 

if it is a convertible, and the front of the window is correct and it hits the rear window but the back of the rear window hits the convert top when the top is up, the convert top is out of adjustment . . if the top was installed incorrectly [too tight] or it has shrunk up from age, you must undo some of it to fix it, but there is rarely enough material in the front to do this so you simply need to properly install a new top.

 

as far as gluing the rear window properly, you need the convert top and front window lined up perfectly first, then you need to fix the looseness in the track so it does not rock front to rear if it is excessive . . it will rock front to rear a little anyway because the design is marginal . . then glue it in as someone previously described with your adjustments in the center so you have adjustment left . . easy deal as long as you do not have a new weatherstrip seal on the edge of the window because this will prevent the windows from lining up flush so you need remove the strip if it is new then line the windows up flush and reinstall the strip afterwards.

 

there is also an adjustment to raise and lower your entire top and also one to raise and lower the center of the top above the window.

 

since your top is hard to latch and the material is stretched tight, you are probably totally screwed . . you can loosen the bolts at the base of the rear window on that side and this will loosen it slightly so it will be easier to latch but this will cause it to come closer to the rear of the rear window so if you do not have a gap there now you will not be able to roll the window up as far if you do this.

 

if your top is loose you can loosen the header bolts and slide it forward a little on that side only or just slide it forward the same amount on both sides.

 

since you ran out of adjustment on the bolt in window, something is fubar and it is likely impossible to determine exactly what it is without being there.

 

also, the bottom of your door should be around 1/4" from the rocker . . if it is less, your windows might not roll up high enough to meet the top.

.

Edited December 5, 2014 by barnett468

[Happystang 10]

#%^#@%^#

 

 

90% sure that my windshield post is bent down on the passenger side

 

 

See my little diagram courtesy of Microsoft paint.

 

I can grab that area with the arrow of the windshield post and actually push up and make the door window gap line up perfect with the windshield post.

 

I'm going to take it to a body shop and see what they think. Looks like a porta power would move everything back into place.

 

 

This explains a lot if the windshield post is indeed bent down a bit on that side. IE the gap between the windshield trim and the fender, why the top is really hard to latch on that side (I have to pull the top down so it reaches the windshield post), and there's a gap between the windshield and header panel trim where it looks like they tried to build it up with something under the header trim on that side to make things look even.

 

 

What would cause this? Looks like someone was sitting on the header panel or the hood flew up and hit the windshield?

 

 

There is absolutely no way that the angle of the windshielf post and door would ever fit the angle of the way the glass is cut in the front. I had this problem with the '69 glass before, I attributed it everything just being FUBAR with the old parts.

 

 

Ps ignore my rust holes

[Happystang 10]

**forgot to mention, all the body panels line up great, door panels open and close with no problem

[barnett468 418]

#%^#@%^#

 

 

90% sure that my windshield post is bent down on the passenger side

 

 

See my little diagram courtesy of Microsoft paint.

 

I can grab that area with the arrow of the windshield post and actually push up and make the door window gap line up perfect with the windshield post.

 

I'm going to take it to a body shop and see what they think. Looks like a porta power would move everything back into place.

 

 

This explains a lot if the windshield post is indeed bent down a bit on that side. IE the gap between the windshield trim and the fender, why the top is really hard to latch on that side (I have to pull the top down so it reaches the windshield post), and there's a gap between the windshield and header panel trim where it looks like they tried to build it up with something under the header trim on that side to make things look even.

 

 

What would cause this? Looks like someone was sitting on the header panel or the hood flew up and hit the windshield?

 

 

There is absolutely no way that the angle of the windshielf post and door would ever fit the angle of the way the glass is cut in the front. I had this problem with the '69 glass before, I attributed it everything just being FUBAR with the old parts.

 

 

Ps ignore my rust holes

 

ok

 

1. based on your information, your convertible top dimensions sound like they are incorrect 110% guaranteed.

 

2. nothing will ever fit perfectly until they are correct.

 

3. finding someone that knows EXACTLY WTF they are poing with a conv top is next to impossible . . they all say they do but they really have no "bleepon" clue . . one of the reasons i know this is because i do have a clue and got tired of having to redo my own tops after paying top dollar at the "best" places to have ronbbins tops installed.

 

4. you can measure from the pillar post to the top of the door on both doors . . if the distance is noticeable different like 3/8" then you likely have a bent pillar post . . you can also measure both of the,m with a large protracter but that tool will be very hard to find unless there is a real machine shop near you.

 

5. if one pillsar post seems easy to bend and the other doesn't then there is somethong structuralky wtrong with the post like maybe its rusty inside or was repaired somewhere once etc..

 

6. 99.999% of the tops and windows do not line up on a conv because no one knows what the heck they are doing.

 

6. not being there iys hard to even guess why you ran out of adjustment on the window other than the door is too low like i mentyioned and/or the top position is incorrect.

 

7. you should never, ever have to pull down and or forward more than around 3/8" on a top to make it fit . . 1" is too much, 3/4" is too much . . if someone tells you otherwise they have absolutely no idea what they are talking about and it is usually the place that charged you $750.00 to install your top incorrectly to cover up for their extreme incompetence.

 

8. if it is bent and you need to straighten it i would remove the windshield . . they will have to push it beyond the needed position a tiny bit because it will spring back a little.

 

9. as i mentioned, the angle of the glass and the pillar post should NOT perfectly match, ever . . if they match, the pillar post is bent or the window is out of adjustment . . ford quality is number 1.

 

10. if the pillar is bent down then it is possible that it is also bent in or out a bit . . you can compare sides with a plumb bob.

.

Edited December 5, 2014 by barnett468

[barnett468 418]

**forgot to mention, all the body panels line up great, door panels open and close with no problem

 

ok thats helpful info and good news.

[Happystang 10]

Update!!

 

 

It's indeed BENT down!

 

Took it to 3 body shops, all agreed with me that the windshield post is bent down.

 

 

 

Going back in a few days to get a quote...

[barnett468 418]

Update!!

 

 

It's indeed BENT down!

 

Took it to 3 body shops, all agreed with me that the windshield post is bent down.

 

 

 

Going back in a few days to get a quote...

 

yup a simple measurement would tell you that . . also if you have a good eye and site along them from the side you can tell.

 

you can also easily measure the angle of the post with an inclinometer if you are on fairly level ground . . they are probably around $15.00 at home depot.

 

i would inspect the mounting point on both sides . . if they look different than the bent one has been repaired before.

 

if your hood flew up and hit it you would likely see signs of this on the fender aprons where the hinges bolt on if the panels are still orig . . it would take a huge force to bend that post.

Edited December 5, 2014 by barnett468