Ridge Runner 1,112 Report post Posted December 5, 2014 Exactly what i needed thanks . I wonder if they made the metal piece or if they trimmed the lip from a steel fender ? My glass fenders are extra thick in this area ,they probably do not need the metal but i thought if i could ever see what it looked like i would do it any way. I hear on a lot of the original Shelby fenders ,this piece has fallen off . Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ridge Runner 1,112 Report post Posted December 5, 2014 here are a few of the driver fender, you can see how the lip is steel and bonded to the rest of the fender this is an original driver in my storeroom, patched up though. I have an earlier branda passenger that is all fiberglass and wavy as ever, and a really beat up passenger that we grabbed off the ground when we got the car way back. my plan is to eventually see if I can get some originals that are good shape or buy some aftermarkets, cut them up and bond my metal mountings on. not sure if this really helps you at all. The fenders i have are actually very straight ,i have block sanded them slightly and the minor waves that they have sanded out in the gellcoat, just barely went through the gellcoat in a few places. I have been blocking across the hood and the fender at the same time ,the hood does not have the usual bow .I should be ready to primer all the fiberglass soon.The hood sounds like steel when i close it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SparkyGT 26 Report post Posted December 5, 2014 well glad it helped some, I have a 70 grande parts car, I haven't looked in a while but im thinking they trimmed some original fenders by the looks of it, but am not sure if the front nose is different as the shelbys are a touch longer. im glad I seen your post about the fiberglass to begin with, this may help me lots in my project GT350 where I stalled on the front fiberglass. being a early car, mine may have some differences over the later ones. my side scoops had the big screws at front, we couldn't figure on how they were held on, after taking apart interior, we seen that there were some small Philips screws that were through the scoop with filler overtop, first ones to take the scoops off, as they were repainted over, but orig car color underneath. a buddy of mine did a clone a few years back, with branda parts, he had to straighten the hood on a hot day by piling books on it to get rid of the bow. and for the fenders, it had some metal strips glued on over top of the fiberglass lips where the fender bolts down along the engine bay. this may help with some cracking problems, I think more like cover the cracks. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ridge Runner 1,112 Report post Posted December 6, 2014 The screw heads are supposed to be exposed ,some one must have bondoed them over .there is a guy a town over that has two 69s and he said the screws were painted after they were screwed on at the factory. The ones i have screw at the front and bolt from inside at the rear with a stud so there is no way they will pull off .I can push the car from these they are so solid . I am using the stock ford hood springs on this hood .The last hood was like a wet noodle compared to this one . I will be doing another 69 soon ,i have been gathering parts for it .I think the only fiberglass i do not have for it is the fenders and the hood ,and will be ordering that after the first of the year . I am going to make my own grill ,i have a branda grill and i can easily build that .I already made the metal dust shields and the grill support .i wish i could make the grill trim ,it cost me $400 ,may have to mess around and see if i can do it . Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SparkyGT 26 Report post Posted December 7, 2014 i better clarify, the two big screws at front on the opening (slotted screws) the back didnt have studs to interior, they were screwed on at rear corners and bondo'd over. grill trim, i think mine may need replacing or refurbishing big time, let me know what you end up doing Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ridge Runner 1,112 Report post Posted December 7, 2014 (edited) When i got the car back it didn't have much interior left . The seats were gone and the fold down parts were missing . Dynacorn parts were just to expensive so i decided to use a package tray ,kind of like a 65 R model ,but this one has two speaker pods for a pair of 6x9s . The spare tire mounts inside on the package tray same as a 65 r model. My 245 -60- R- 15 BFGs fit with a inch to spare .I may add a couple of speakers in the front also . I am thinking about having carpet form fit for the shelf its self.To be sure the quarter trim panels would support the tire ,and to have a place to attach the package tray ,i glassed some 18 gauge angle i bent up under were the fold down would have rested when folded down Edited December 7, 2014 by Ridge Runner Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SWPruett 83 Report post Posted December 7, 2014 Where did you find that package tray? Never seen one quite like that. Also, are your rear interior panels the NPD fiberglass replacement pieces by any chance? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ridge Runner 1,112 Report post Posted December 7, 2014 This is the steering wheel i decided to go with Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ridge Runner 1,112 Report post Posted December 7, 2014 Every thing is from Stang-aholics ,I got the first package tray made .It has a rough texture though ,like the 65 r model ,that is why i want to carpet it .It looks great the way it is but i figure it would look better carpeted . Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ridge Runner 1,112 Report post Posted December 7, 2014 Just a few more parts . Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ridge Runner 1,112 Report post Posted December 8, 2014 I bought the Traction Master under riders .They used a mess of flat washers to space out the sides .I didn't care for that so i made a solid spacer . Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SparkyGT 26 Report post Posted December 8, 2014 wow that rear tray looks cool, did you install those side panel back side pieces/glassed in to support the shelf? and did the grille trim ring come from stangaholics also? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ridge Runner 1,112 Report post Posted December 8, 2014 wow that rear tray looks cool, did you install those side panel back side pieces/glassed in to support the shelf? and did the grille trim ring come from stangaholics also? Yeah ,i fiberglassed the metal strips in the seat side panels to add extra support for the package tray. The white pieces are the mounting plates for the seat sides . The grill trim is from Branda ,it broke at the joint the first time i tried to attach it to the grill. .It still works because it has a mounting tab at both sides of the joint .It is a nice piece but very expensive . Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ridge Runner 1,112 Report post Posted December 9, 2014 Very nice work indeed! Love the fabricated fender pieces. Do you like the 3 in 1 shear, roll and pan brake? I was going to purchase one but heard so many negatives about them that I didn't bother. Yet, if you used one to do the fender pieces I see nothing wrong with those! We have princess auto up here in Canada which is similar to your Harbor Freight and I believe they sell a 3 in 1. Thanks and I'm enjoying following your build. Regards...>john Sorry ,i some how missed your post . The three in one shear ,slip roll and break works great for the smaller parts i need to make . I very seldom use the slip roll ,but when i need it it is nice that it is there .The shear works decent ,you need to keep it adjusted so it will cut .The break ,i use all the time . There are some things that you are limited in such as box depth ,but mostly it works great . I would get the larger one ,the one i have is 30 inch ,they have a bigger one .It is well worth it . Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ridge Runner 1,112 Report post Posted December 10, 2014 The 69 351 is ready to go.Its fully built with a 292 solid lift comp cam ,30 over TRW 11-1 forged pistons ,balanced ,blue printed, Edelbrok heads completely reworked ,ported ,port matched ,swirl stainless valves ,roller rockers .The msd ignition is chipped at 7 grand and it easily hits it .I have more money in the motor than the car it's self .It dynoed out at a bit over 500 HP. I had to bolt on the spin tecks because it was way to loud ,and the neighbors didn't like it :nono: It does kind of rattle my walls in my shop.:yes: The close ratio top loader went with a buddy to be rebuilt ,haven't seen my buddy or the top loader in over a year now .I guess i need a new top loader ...and maybe a new buddy .I painted it to look stock at first glance .I have a stock fuel pump on it to run it now but that will be changed out to a holley trunk mount electric pump and filter . Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ridge Runner 1,112 Report post Posted December 10, 2014 This is how it sits now .I wanted it painted this year but that didn't work out . I hope to paint it after the first of the year . Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rcodenewf 44 Report post Posted December 11, 2014 Sorry ,i some how missed your post . The three in one shear ,slip roll and break works great for the smaller parts i need to make . I very seldom use the slip roll ,but when i need it it is nice that it is there .The shear works decent ,you need to keep it adjusted so it will cut .The break ,i use all the time . There are some things that you are limited in such as box depth ,but mostly it works great . I would get the larger one ,the one i have is 30 inch ,they have a bigger one .It is well worth it Thanks RidgeRunner...was considering a 30 inch with the removable fingers to do box and pan work. Very nice job on your ride! Regards...John Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ridge Runner 1,112 Report post Posted December 11, 2014 I sanded the back of the package tray smooth ,it was just raw fiberglass .I found a texture spray a Home Depot ,it is from Rustolium ,it is made for out door furniture and comes in several colors .I already sprayed a test panel and i really like the way it looks ,almost the same as the interior fiberglass parts .The hump uses up a bit of trunk space,but not a lot, but the spare mounts inside now and i really don't want to put anything in the trunk when the car is finished any way. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SparkyGT 26 Report post Posted December 11, 2014 looking good, i have looked into stang a holics so thanks for the info in this thread on fit and such. depends if i can find original fiberglass for mine i suppose. nice engine with 500 hp, are you going to run subframe connectors? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ridge Runner 1,112 Report post Posted December 11, 2014 I wasn't planning connectors .The motor was built for a drag car ,and i scraped that idea and decided to put it in the 69 .I will just have to limit the clutch dumps and 7 grand launches ...Foot twitching ... I would still like to hit a couple of road courses though . Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ridge Runner 1,112 Report post Posted December 11, 2014 looking good, i have looked into stang a holics so thanks for the info in this thread on fit and such. depends if i can find original fiberglass for mine i suppose. nice engine with 500 hp, are you going to run subframe connectors? All the fiberglass has been close to the factory fit so far ,only a bit of sanding on the mounting surfaces to draw the pieces up tight .The hood is better than the factory ,no bow ,the only thing is it is raw fiberglass on the back .they used a fine grade of mat though and will easily sand smooth as i am going to do .I have already sanded inside the front scoop and i think it will be close to the original when i am done .I am not trying to build mine to fool anyone ,but i would like as close to original looks as possible . Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SparkyGT 26 Report post Posted January 12, 2015 do you have a good pic of before and after of the underside oh hood? this may help me decide what to do Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ridge Runner 1,112 Report post Posted January 12, 2015 I can take a couple of it on the car .I will look for pics off the car but i dont think i have any . Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ridge Runner 1,112 Report post Posted January 12, 2015 Not sure how good these pics are ,my lighting sux in the shop right now . I have been block sanding on the hood and fenders ,blocking across both at the same time .The under side i will be sanding smooth ,it is fairly smooth as it is so it will not take much .It has the part number .I have the stock hood springs on it and it closes perfectly. The hood follows the fenders very nice Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ridge Runner 1,112 Report post Posted January 12, 2015 So far i have sanded inside the front scoop and it came out smooth ,the under side should sand just as easy. For some reason i can't load any more images ,even after i down sized them Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
